First Time DWC Grow EVER LOTS OF PICS BUT NEED HELP. PLEASE POST

Bubblemanhydro said:

Perfect then im right on for my nutes. I gave them 5 teaspoons of grow big and 6 Tablespoons of big bloom. Also my Nutes pH changed from 5.8 to 6.4. Should i drain a gallon and replace a gallon with 5.5 pH and 1/5 nutes to balance it out?

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I think that 6 TABLESPOONS of Big Bloom is way too much - you're probably running close to 1200 ppm - do you have a ppm meter?

The pH will change depending on many factors. Generally, I let my solution find the "sweet spot" where it stabilizes, and I don't chase it. 6.4 might be a touch high, but it's still in range and if it stabilizes there then I wouldn't keep trying to lower it to 5.8 - you'll probably do more harm than good.

Just my opinion...

Should i use club soda or no. It says it is carbonated or what should i spray my nutes with. Club soda, pH balanced water or nute pH balanced mix?

Bubblemanhydro said:

Thnx for the advise guys on the nutrients and also about the hydro stuff. Yes have read rosemans tutorial a million times and study that thing like crazy. I think i am going to go to the hydro store this week and pick up that three nutrient pack to add to my plants. Do you guys think it would be ok if i added those botanicare nutrients the second week forward or should i just stick with the foxfarm?

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If you're using tap water then you probably don't need the Cal-Mag in my opinion. If you're using distilled or RO water then it might help.

I believe Sweet is an organic nute, and while I don't know the ingredients it's probably mainly molasses (and extremely expensive molasses at that!). Organic nutes can be hard to manage in a hydroponic grow. I personally would stay away from the Sweet until you're a little more experienced. Just my opinion.

Clearex is used for flushing only and seems to be a pretty good product. Works for me!

I wouldn't use soda water but that's me, did you read the instruction or check on the bottle or ask someone here first, I'm new to it myself but I try to stay with traditional water phed, but it's sound like you may be over doing the big bud.

GET ON EBAY AND SPEND $25 bucks on a particle pen. This is the most important thing you can do. Saying you dont konw how to mix your nutes is a shortcut to wilted yellow piles of shit. all nute ix differently acording to instructions. A meter is the only way to know for sure.

Should i just buy a tds meter? If i buy a tds meter should i get some ppm solution or somthing like ph up or down but for ppm's.

if you got the cash buy a bluelab truncheon ppm tester. no need for solution cause it never needs to be recalibrated and you dont have to store it in anything. they are kind of expensive you can find them on ebay for like $110 but imo it is worth every penny I love mine. nice work man keep it up and when shit goes wrong try not to get to discouraged. + rep for ya.

one thing with deep water is I would keep your eye on your air stones if you get cheap or the small ones they clog up and will slow your plant growth or just kill them. keep the light tight and look out cause I just love deep water. also I use cutting edge solutions nutes there so easy to mix and use and are very forgiving if you dont measure It exact. great products but most of all keep an eye on those stones

FuZZyBUDz said:

sounds good! the next best thing would b hps! but yea u ever heard of "jb stick weld"??? werks wondrs on keepin things put, just b sure to let it dry good.

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Can you give some more sample question and answers. How great your info is! It really useful for me. Thanks.
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Looking good to me, but you will need more watts or more lumens, to Flower them and get good tight buds. I suggest a bunch of 2700k 42 watt bulbs.

Read the two pages on lights here, pages 7 and 8, and you'll be a CFL Light expert:
L I G H T S Page 7

Temperatures, Humidity
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The temperature is the hardest factor to take control of to me. When confined to a small space, ballasts and lights can push temperatures sky-high in no time flat. That is why I use CFLS, to avoid venting heat. This is especially true during hot summer months when outside temperature reaches its highest. Nighttime (LIGHTS OFF period) temperature can be just as difficult to regulate during cold winter month. Most gardeners are aware that temperature in the grow room plays a major role and can greatly affect the growth of plants and the quality of the finished crop. Most gardeners do not know how controlling the temperature of their garden in very specific ways they can achieve a superior crop. Drift to far from these ideal temperatures and watch your plants and crop suffer.
Before getting started it is highly recommended that every indoor garden has a max/min thermometer. (Digital $4.95 at Walmart)

This product allows the gardener to see exactly the fluctuations in temperature within their garden. Without this useful tool there is no accurate way of knowing the different temperatures between daytime (lights on) and nighttime (lights off). The difference between the two temperatures is very important to plant growth. Anymore than a 10F-15F difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures and you risk shocking and stressing the plants. You want a 10 degree difference between LIGHTS ON and LIGHTS OFF temps. In general the optimal daytime temperature for plant growth is between 70F -75F. Drift to far above this range or too far below and growth can be severely affected. Daytime temperatures exceeding 90F or under 62F and plant growth will be slowed and stunted. Plants do thrive in afganastan's 110 degrees, but they quit growing at that temp. If the temperature drifts higher than 95F the plant’s enzyme production will drop off and the plant will begin shutting down. At temperatures above 92 - 94, high photosynthesis shuts down due to the stomata in the leaves closing down to conserve water. At normal temperatures the stomata will be open, taking in CO2 and sweating water to keep the plant cool and allowing for transpiration.
Ideal temperature varies depending on whether or not CO2 is being introduced to the environment. A more suitable daytime temperature when the air is being enriched with CO2 is 80F-85F. This temperature range promotes the exchange of gases between the plants and the environment. Also, it can speed up the process of photosynthesis. Plant in an environment at 86F can perform carbon extraction from CO2 twice as fast as at 68F. It is still recommended that the nighttime temperature drop no more than 15f from that of the daytime temperature. There is another relationship between temperature and the absorbsion of gases by plants that many hobbyist growers are aware of. That is the relationship between the temperature of the water in your reservoir and the amount of oxygen the water can hold. The best range that your reservoir can be between is 60F-75F. Ideally the reservoir temperature should be at 65F because this level contains the most oxygen. Also this temperature will help control transpiration (the act of drawing up nutrients by evaporating water through out the leaves), and humidity levels. Buying a simple aquarium floating thermometer will allow you to know where you fit in this range.

$2 to $4 at Walmart, Target,
PetSmart Aquarium Dept





Another great reason for regulating the temperature in your grow room is that biological processes can be speed up exponentially by every degree. This is true for your plants as well as the potential pests that may invade your grow room.
Pests such as spider mites can reproduce up to 10 times faster with every degree the temperature rises.
These pests can destroy a garden in no time flat, you really do not want to make it any easier for them. Spider Mite Eggs and webs can screw up the buds so bad, they can nto be smoked. With a daytime temperature at a steady 72F and nighttime temperature of 65F it is much easier to control and destroy spider mite, thrip, and many other pest populations.
The same principal can be applied to the prevention and control of fungi, molds, mildews, and bacteria, which can spread more rapidly when temperatures in the grow room or reservoir exceed 90F. Also, the warmer the air, the more water it can retain which means humidity levels can easily go beyond the recommended 40-50% for Vegging. (you want high humidity for VEG, and low humidity for Flowering.) This high humidity coupled with lower nighttime temperatures can cause condensation to form on leaves. This will invite molds, mildews, fungi, and bacteria to take over you grow space. With high temperatures the likely-hood of losing control of the problem, such as powdery mildew, is very high. Once control is lost your plants may be the next to go.

Temperature is also very important when it comes to starting seeds and getting cuttings to root. Placing seedling trays on a heating mat will reduce germination time dramatically. Speeding up germination time usually leads to stronger and healthier plants. Also, less time spent between crop cycles makes a garden efficient. More harvests provided in less time can equal big bucks in the pockets of professional growers.
The ideal temperature for sprouting or cloning is 80F. Any higher and you risk burning the roots. Also, many seeds simply will not germinate at temperatures over 90F. The seeds will become dormant and never sprout.
The same principal used for seeds is used on cuttings to coax roots out quicker. The sooner cuttings can establish roots the better. If roots can be forced quickly they will grow strong and stay strong. A bottom temperature of 80F-85F, roughly 10F warmer than the air, will speed up rooting time and help to jump start those roots once they do begin. Let the temperature get too high or too low and roots growth will be hindered or they will never grow at all. Using the proper technique and the proper temperature for bottom heat not only can rooting time be speed up from 2 weeks to as little as 3 days, but the survival rate of your cuttings will drastically improve.

On the topic of roots, there is an ideal temperature for the root zone after the plants’ roots have been established. Roots are working 24 hours a day and constant attention is required concerning temperature in and around the root zone. The ideal temp for this root zone is generally 65 to 75 degrees F. At this temperature the ion exchange between the roots and the environment around them is at its absolute best. This means that the plant’s root system can take up more macro nutrients, more micro nutrients, and more oxygen at this temperature than at any other level. This makes a plant more efficient and a plant working efficiently will provide a superior yield.

Amazingly, some growers grow successfully with no themometer for the air or water. But for maximum efficiency, you got to take control of temps.

HUMIDITY? that is more simple to me. Get the Humidity VERY high for VEGGING, and very low for FLOWERING.

in Vegging, I mist them daily. I do raise the lights up, to be careful with my bulbs getting wet and breaking. And when it rains outside, it also gets cloudy and the sun's rays are blocked. Plants in outdoors, in nature do get an ocasional rain shower or thunderstorm. Do you let it rain on yours? I do, but artificially by MISTING.
AND, I bought a cheap humidifier.

Cheap Cool Mist Humidifiers from Walmart:

$26.00



Ultrasonic Humidifier With Light


$28.97



Graco, Cool Mist Humidifier, 1.5 Gallon $29.96




During Flowering, we need a low humidity, especially to avoid Bud mold and bud rot.

To get the temp down and the humidity up, try these:

You need a fan pulling heat out and a fan pulling cool air in.
You have to have an oscilating fan on the plants.
Lay wet rolled up like a cigar wash rags everywhere.
Hang a soaking wet bath towel on a cloths hanger and let it drip into a pan or bucket.
Put a frozen milk jug of water in front of a fan or let it drip into something by putting a pin hole in it.
Get a bucket, put ice in it or frozen water and blow a fan into the bucket, blowing cool air everywhere. And you can put Pine Sol or ONA in the bucket for Odor Control.



Put saucers and cups of water everywhere.
Mist the plants with plain pH water.
Put Frozen cups of water on the lids and everywhere around the plants.

I would take it real easy on the nutes with those clones bro. You won't harm the plants as fast by not putting nutes. but if you over fertilize them you'll be SOL

Should i just mix new nutrients? How much big grow should i use and how much big bloom should i use. Also should i use 3% peroxide because i have some of that also. I have a 10 gallon reservoir.

I would say go with about 1/4 dose of whatever the instructions tell you to use. You could put in a little peroxide but no more than 2 teaspoons per gallon for now.

I also use seaweed extract it helps in rooting and root generation, I just started using it and I have see huge differences in a small amount of time

Here are the new day 3 of growing pictures i just took. I bought a tds meter, peroxide, a humidifier, and some tiger bloom today. I checked my ppm's and it said around 580 is that a good number? Also my pH is back up to 6.4 again should i rechange another gallon of water?

Day 3 Pics any advise. I have 580 ppm and 6.4 pH.

Bubblemanhydro said:

Should i just mix new nutrients? How much big grow should i use and how much big bloom should i use. Also should i use 3% peroxide because i have some of that also. I have a 10 gallon reservoir.

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I gave you exact numbers back on page 2. Yes, use 3% peroxide at the level Lt Shiney sides suggested.

How can i raise or lower the ppm's? Thank you guys so much for the support and knowledge. Im so glad you are here or my plants probably would have died by now.

Also Roseman thanks for all of your tutorials, you should write a book on growing.