DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes

gracious

Member
Greetings All!

Long time lurker. Started DWC growing about 5 years back. Absolutely love it. I'm pretty sure I even stumbled upon this thread in my research when looking into the dreaded Pythium...

Welp, after running into what looks to be Pythium (browning/sliming of the roots, abnormal left growth, stunted growth) for the last time, I've finally pulled the trigger. Wasn't able to source the exact ingredients, but this is what I've settled with:

- BlueSky Organics Myco Grow
- Botanicare HydroGuard
- Mother Earth "Sugar Load" Heavy Brix Molasses ~Unsulfured~
- Gro4 Earth Worm Castings

And this is the recipe:

- 2 Gal Filtered Water (HydroLogic SmallBoy w/ upgraded Catalytic Carbon Filter)
- 1/4 to 1/2 tsp Myco Grow
- 10 to 15ml Hydroguard
- 2 Handfuls EWC (placed into a compost tea bag)
- 1 tbsp Molasses (mixed in with some hot water to dissolve first)

Bag hangs on the side with an air pump directly underneath it, and another air pump closer to the center of the bucket.
Brewed for 48 hours, and added one cup total onto the base of the plant, and another 2 cups directly into the bucket.
3 days after, I added a total of 1 cup to the bucket.
The rest is history.

I have nothing but thanks and praise to Sir Heisenberg and all those who've helped along the way. Thank you all so very much. I will pass along this knowledge to fellow growers and hope that someday we can all move towards organic growing :) I'm on another grow site, and have mentioned my success due to this Tea.

Hit me up if you have any questions. I live in Toronto, Canada, and we just recently legalized!!!

Cheers!
Hey man - did you gind Great White and Ancient Forest wasn't enough? check out the newest post, it's mine apr 11 - having troubles but no heisenberg tea for a week or two cause i cant get GW or Hydrogaurd in stores here..
 

athomegrowing

Well-Known Member
I seek your guidance as i have no DWC tutor irl.

1) How should i keep these alive until my HBT ingredients come in the mail - 1-2 weeks to go... these are only about 4-5 weeks old... i've sprayed off as much as i could as per your original post.

2) I've heard people say using h2o2 will temporarily prevent rot but will make slime worse!

3) I am sure it was a light leak issue and I am working on fixing it - my white buckets are not exposed to light, it was because i had too thin of a layer of clay pebbles in spots.

4) wtf ive never seen green dots on roots.. any notes on green dots?

Thank you!
1/2 = https://www.gardenguides.com/126266-prevent-root-rot-hydroponic-systems.html
3 ok
4 algae maybe
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I seek your guidance as i have no DWC tutor irl.

1) How should i keep these alive until my HBT ingredients come in the mail - 1-2 weeks to go... these are only about 4-5 weeks old... i've sprayed off as much as i could as per your original post.

2) I've heard people say using h2o2 will temporarily prevent rot but will make slime worse!

3) I am sure it was a light leak issue and I am working on fixing it - my white buckets are not exposed to light, it was because i had too thin of a layer of clay pebbles in spots.

4) wtf ive never seen green dots on roots.. any notes on green dots?

Thank you!
From your pics, your roots don't look too far gone and you still have a lot of good ones left which would make me feel a lot better if I were in your shoes right now. Is there literally no beneficial bacteria that can be found locally? Call around to local nurseries or garden centers and see if they have anything along the lines of beneficial microbes that can aide your roots for the time being. That aside though, I would cut off the infected roots and clean the buckets and other parts very well. Until you get your hands on the bennies, you can use the H2O2 and/or bleach. The sterile products won't reverse the damage, but they will slow down the progression hopefully enough till your orders arrive, and even then with the HBT, it will take time to reverse the damage. HBT is better as a preventative than damage reversal.
 

gracious

Member
From your pics, your roots don't look too far gone and you still have a lot of good ones left which would make me feel a lot better if I were in your shoes right now. Is there literally no beneficial bacteria that can be found locally? Call around to local nurseries or garden centers and see if they have anything along the lines of beneficial microbes that can aide your roots for the time being. That aside though, I would cut off the infected roots and clean the buckets and other parts very well. Until you get your hands on the bennies, you can use the H2O2 and/or bleach. The sterile products won't reverse the damage, but they will slow down the progression hopefully enough till your orders arrive, and even then with the HBT, it will take time to reverse the damage. HBT is better as a preventative than damage reversal.
thank you - yea i tried to get beneficials - was sold hygrozyme instead because i didnt do my own research and sales guy said enzymes were as good as a preventative as benies (wrong in my case) - had no problems for 4 weeks then had a light leak in a bucket.

1) so confirmed this is probably rot - im just worried cause i hear h2o2 can make some stuff worse. you think its ok? i think 5ml/gal of 3% is what i'm hearing everywhere - but much stronger for a soak before i put the benes in.

2) im not gonna soak them or even cut roots unless necessary before adding beneficials unless it gets really bad. i think this will just stress them out a lot but appreciate thoughts. maybe a one hour soak every 2-3 days or something just to clear it up would be good...

3) would topping now be smart or dumb? smart cause im slowing growth maybe and reducing overall spread, but dumb maybe cause im weakening plant... hm... any other ideas to slow the growth is appreciated!

thank you!
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Using bennies = LIVE, using H2O2 or bleach = STERILE. You can't do both at the same time, and you stated that your orders were still days to weeks away so you're pretty much only left with sterile. FWIW, I once contracted pythium to my roots while maintaining a sterile res and all of my plants died, so it's not like sterile is a sure shot fix, but if you understand that it's just a means of cleaning the infected area, then you'll know it's like washing out an open laceration on your arm. That's not to say the laceration will get infected or won't, but just washing out the wound is a good thing to do.

Maintaining a live reservoir is not only preventative maintenance, but also actually beneficial to vigorous root and plant growth so keeping things LIVE is at minimum a +2, and in the long run, it makes hydro more forgiving.

So until you get your orders and can make and use the tea I would commit to washing off the infected area in an isolated container and depending on the severity of the damage, I may or may not top the plant. Topping her is stressful yes, but not as much as topping her twice, so you'll need to make an educated guess and be fully prepared to accept the results of your own actions or inaction. Not every pot seed can grow up to be the Cannabis Cup winner, heck, not every pot seed can grow up.

On a side note, if you can get your hands on rock wool mini cubes, I suggest investing into that. I've been using nothing but for a lot of years and would gladly compare any of my grows to your average DWC grow and bet I would not be less than 10% less in yield which IMO is on par with DWC, yet I have NONE of the liabilities that plagues DWC.
 

gracious

Member
Using bennies = LIVE, using H2O2 or bleach = STERILE. You can't do both at the same time, and you stated that your orders were still days to weeks away so you're pretty much only left with sterile. FWIW, I once contracted pythium to my roots while maintaining a sterile res and all of my plants died, so it's not like sterile is a sure shot fix, but if you understand that it's just a means of cleaning the infected area, then you'll know it's like washing out an open laceration on your arm. That's not to say the laceration will get infected or won't, but just washing out the wound is a good thing to do.

Maintaining a live reservoir is not only preventative maintenance, but also actually beneficial to vigorous root and plant growth so keeping things LIVE is at minimum a +2, and in the long run, it makes hydro more forgiving.

So until you get your orders and can make and use the tea I would commit to washing off the infected area in an isolated container and depending on the severity of the damage, I may or may not top the plant. Topping her is stressful yes, but not as much as topping her twice, so you'll need to make an educated guess and be fully prepared to accept the results of your own actions or inaction. Not every pot seed can grow up to be the Cannabis Cup winner, heck, not every pot seed can grow up.

On a side note, if you can get your hands on rock wool mini cubes, I suggest investing into that. I've been using nothing but for a lot of years and would gladly compare any of my grows to your average DWC grow and bet I would not be less than 10% less in yield which IMO is on par with DWC, yet I have NONE of the liabilities that plagues DWC.
yea i think im going to switch to the cap'n method over time - this was a first shot that has taught me a lot!

thanks for the advice, i'll keep em clean and hold my breath until i can brew some HBT! Looking way better after res change and no h2o2 - adding some h2o2 today to see if that keeps it down.

dudegrows.c***m/doing-it-captain-style-part-2/
 

Skybound420

Well-Known Member
Capn knows his shit! If not for the noticeable vigor, I would go so far as to say using the tea isn't even needed, but as I said, I do notice a lot more vigor from using it.

If you live somewhere that is too remote and buying croutons isn't practical, you could do a hempy with perlite or hydroton. Bato buckets would give you very similar results, and the Batos have builtin water sumps so the roots can keep wicking in between feed cycles. I think the lot of liability of DWC is that submerged roots are entirely dependent on all of the O2 being supplied in the water and the moment the O2 levels fall below acceptable, BOOM you got an anaerobic root zone and bad things take over. Keeping the roots exposed to atmospheric O2 changes the rules substantially.
 

gracious

Member
Capn knows his shit! If not for the noticeable vigor, I would go so far as to say using the tea isn't even needed, but as I said, I do notice a lot more vigor from using it.

If you live somewhere that is too remote and buying croutons isn't practical, you could do a hempy with perlite or hydroton. Bato buckets would give you very similar results, and the Batos have builtin water sumps so the roots can keep wicking in between feed cycles. I think the lot of liability of DWC is that submerged roots are entirely dependent on all of the O2 being supplied in the water and the moment the O2 levels fall below acceptable, BOOM you got an anaerobic root zone and bad things take over. Keeping the roots exposed to atmospheric O2 changes the rules substantially.
everrythhing's hanging in there - still seeing new roots and growth so it's at least at bay. I want to top but these don't look like the tops on videos. do i just make 2 cuts or should i just leave it as is?

most of my stuff is growing colas out of the fan leaf armpits - if i can get these as tall as the main top, should i just let them ride? or do cut tops provide hire quality?
 

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Skybound420

Well-Known Member
everrythhing's hanging in there - still seeing new roots and growth so it's at least at bay. I want to top but these don't look like the tops on videos. do i just make 2 cuts or should i just leave it as is?

most of my stuff is growing colas out of the fan leaf armpits - if i can get these as tall as the main top, should i just let them ride? or do cut tops provide hire quality?
It looks like you're growing out a clone as the nodes are alternating. If the plant was from a seedling, the nodes would be paired and that's where topping has the most benefits. That said, if you top that plant, the most you'll accomplish to to halt the terminal shoot which forces the plant to select the next lowest node to become the new terminal shoot. By doing that, it will halt the upward growth and allow for more outward growth for a few days, but when the new terminal shoot is identified, she'll stop growing out and go back to growing tall.
 

gracious

Member
It looks like you're growing out a clone as the nodes are alternating. If the plant was from a seedling, the nodes would be paired and that's where topping has the most benefits. That said, if you top that plant, the most you'll accomplish to to halt the terminal shoot which forces the plant to select the next lowest node to become the new terminal shoot. By doing that, it will halt the upward growth and allow for more outward growth for a few days, but when the new terminal shoot is identified, she'll stop growing out and go back to growing tall.
so with training both of those growths with yellow lines can turn into a top?

here's my shot at topping my seed - i didnt see the tiny little side leafs that are supposed to be there but i think maybe theyre just super tiny still..
 

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Skybound420

Well-Known Member
so with training both of those growths with yellow lines can turn into a top?

here's my shot at topping my seed - i didnt see the tiny little side leafs that are supposed to be there but i think maybe theyre just super tiny still..
Start a new thread and invite me to it. This thread is about a specific topic.
 

gracious

Member
Start a new thread and invite me to it. This thread is about a specific topic.
THE GREAT WHITE DID ITS JOB. Thought I would post pictures because who doesn't love a follow-up?

I didn't have time to brew the tea - this is just day 8 res change #2 of using great white. Noticed huge growth within days and almost all the bad signs are gone already. I just treated them with h2o2 and spray washed or used a cloth on the roots to remove any slimey buildup in the meantime until the great white got here and it held it at bay. i'm excited to brew the tea once i get some storage containers for my fridge to keep it in.

note: it did raise my pH a lot - i think it's cause of the war going on between the microbes.. I pHd it normal, then added the great white and let it hang out at whatever pH it wanted to for a a day or two - then I would bring it back down low 5s and let it ride up back to low 7s over 2-3 days until readjusting.

note 2: I did see some brown sediment buildup in my first res change. It didn't clog my air stones and seems to just collect in the less agitated areas of water. I think brewing the tea would remove this problem, also having no bad bacteria probably helps.

note 3: my roots are stained a bit brown because the great white really changes the color of my water and raises the ppms. pretty sure this is fine while things settle down. i expect them to go full white when i use the tea and all the bad microbes have been killed.

Thanks all!
 

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Skybound420

Well-Known Member
I just went over my Tea mix this morning on 420. HERE is the link over to it. FYI, I brew for 36-48 hours, but have went as long as 72 hours in the past with no loss of affect.
 

Magic M

Well-Known Member
I was wondering how the results are using myco soluble in rdwc. Blue sky organics is the only one I seem to be able to find in Canada. I have read some conflicting reports regarding results and when to add the mycosoluble to the tea. There also seems to be a lot of variance in the amount of molasses added per gallon. The same applies to great white....some saying it should be added just before using the tea and some adding it at the beginning. I currently use great white and og biowar..the root pack together with ewc. I put them all in at the beginning with molasses. I do still get brown patches occurring on the roots of some plants. Any info would be appreciated. In case this shows up in a weird or wrong place...apologies. I had a hard time being able to post anything.
 

Bfunk327

Member
Take it from someone who fought for a year. Once you have the slime switch to coco. Walk away from the water. Or try zerotol. All this tea does is prolong and drag out your demise. Again, when you get tiered of reduced yield, quality and or crop failure switch to coco. For the record I went beneficials route and also sterile (separately) struggled for a year switched to coco and never looked back!!!!!!!
 

linky

Well-Known Member
Take it from someone who fought for a year. Once you have the slime switch to coco. Walk away from the water. Or try zerotol. All this tea does is prolong and drag out your demise. Again, when you get tiered of reduced yield, quality and or crop failure switch to coco. For the record I went beneficials route and also sterile (separately) struggled for a year switched to coco and never looked back!!!!!!!
I agree it can be frustrating but with dwc but its all about keeping your grow area clean and most importantly you have to clean the fuck out of your rdwc system between runs, I run bleach water for a day through the system, then flush with plain water really really well then after that I run 34% h2o2 at about ~10ml per gallon in ro water and let that run through the system for a day (whole system, including chiller etc) (during the bleach cycle I scrub everything to remove residue etc).

I avoid using kelp or fulic/humic acid as it makes a mess out of your system, I try to stick with "clean" nutrients and additives. You can get away with fulvic if its dissolved really well, I just don't like the residue it leaves behind if its not fully dissolved. Never use any molasses or sugars in your system, that is just inviting pathogens and allowing them to thrive.

I run the water at ~66-68 F and I use hydroguard from day one all the way through, add 2ml per gal every 2 or 3 days. If you try to fight root rot once you get it hydroguard can and will help some but works much much better if you use it as a preventative from day one. You can do that same thing with h2o2 instead if you wanted, run the 29-34% stuff at 1ml per gal, re add every 2-3 days, obviously go one or the other, not both, hydroguard or h2o2. But important to do it from day one all the way through. Make sure you have enough water flow also, I run mostly 8 site systems, I have about 800 gal an hour volume total through the entire system (1050 gph utility pump).. in veg the total water volume is about 50 gallons and in flower its about 100 gallons of water. I have return lines going from the pump in the controller/"epicenter" to each site, so the water is splashing/waterfall effect in, which keeps your dissolved oxygen up.
 

StevenBair

Well-Known Member
HEY! Dispo and mr. bond, SEE HOW FAR YOU GET FOLLOWING THAT GUYS ADVICE...the slime IS from decayed organic matter and it is called pythium i get it everytime i tried to use organics with aeroponics and i know tis for a fact...DO NOT USE ORGANICS WITH AEROPONICS best bet is to just aim for NATURAL idk where this guy heisenberg gets his info..from a book OR FROM EXPERIENCE...people need t stop trying to show off and act like they know how to grow in every ones circumstances and ONLY SPEAK FROM EXPERIENCE whatever Heisenber says from this point is like the 15Khz frequency from a television to my ears.
Dude get the F out of here! He saved my first dwc grow when the expert team at AN lied to me for an hour and all I had was my good benies doing what they do, produce results, protect, and heal! I'm now on to AEROPONICS and dwc. This tea is in no way a form of trying to turn hydro organic. It's simply a way for all of us to stretch out our expensive supplies to get the most bang for our buck. Unless your just a rich spoiled Millennial most of us can't just go buy whatever when we want and when stuff fails or goes wrong. Tell me this, how would you suggest I go out in a blizzard to get supplies 90 miles away and then a good chance they domt have what you need....you would be screwed. None of us though, we have our stuff covered and some triple redundancy. Good luck in life with that attitude. I've lost a few babies along the way and didnt cry as much as you are on someone else's thread. Sorry Heisenberg, please continue.
 
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