DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes
- Thread starter Heisenberg
- Start date
neobes
Well-Known Member
Just ordered the MycoGrow. I'll bet that Fungi Perfecti is wondering where this sudden uptick in orders is coming from.
BTW, I've only dumped my DWC buckets one time through the entire grow. The water was getting thick with loose, floating root fibers. Not changing the rez seems to have no negative effects. Just white, healthy, robust roots.
Thanks Heisenberg!
BTW, I've only dumped my DWC buckets one time through the entire grow. The water was getting thick with loose, floating root fibers. Not changing the rez seems to have no negative effects. Just white, healthy, robust roots.
Thanks Heisenberg!
petersonscott79
Member
Wow, just read the whole thread and hopefully not going to ask about anything already covered.
Heisenberg, I am having huge problems with my water temps in my Aero setup and have had terrible PH stability issues. I understand that the PH issues come from bacteria that becomes active when my rez temps are higher then 68F. I have looked at water chillers but they are way to much for me to invest in right now. I am completely new to growing and have a few questions
Will this tea work with an Aero setup? To be exact it is StinkBuds Aero/NFT system.
Instead of buying chillers, I could use this tea and be ok with the higher rez temps? As it stands now I have to adjust my PH many times a day and my plants look very unhappy, top and bottom! I think that these bacteria from the high water temps have stopped growth of my plants. I have not noticed growth in 3 days and leaves are droopy.
I have read multiple times that certain parts of the tea cannot be used with organic nutes right? I am using Botanicare (Pure Blend Pro Grow, CalMag, Liquid Karma), can I use this tea with these nutes?
I am sorry if anything that I have asked has already been covered. I had the brown slimy stuff covering one of the plants roots the other day and have changing the rez every other day and ready to give up on Aero. Please help me if you can...
Heisenberg, I am having huge problems with my water temps in my Aero setup and have had terrible PH stability issues. I understand that the PH issues come from bacteria that becomes active when my rez temps are higher then 68F. I have looked at water chillers but they are way to much for me to invest in right now. I am completely new to growing and have a few questions
Will this tea work with an Aero setup? To be exact it is StinkBuds Aero/NFT system.
Instead of buying chillers, I could use this tea and be ok with the higher rez temps? As it stands now I have to adjust my PH many times a day and my plants look very unhappy, top and bottom! I think that these bacteria from the high water temps have stopped growth of my plants. I have not noticed growth in 3 days and leaves are droopy.
I have read multiple times that certain parts of the tea cannot be used with organic nutes right? I am using Botanicare (Pure Blend Pro Grow, CalMag, Liquid Karma), can I use this tea with these nutes?
I am sorry if anything that I have asked has already been covered. I had the brown slimy stuff covering one of the plants roots the other day and have changing the rez every other day and ready to give up on Aero. Please help me if you can...
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
The concern with using this tea in a aero setup is that it could clog sprayers. Although the tea keeps away gunky build up and keeps my air stones very clean, it does cover everything in a slight biofilm. Very small sprayers could be effected, though I can't see how it would be any worse than salt buildup. I suppose if you are already dealing with an infected gunky res and not having sprayer issues then you should be fine using the tea.
In terms of disease, bennies will let you tolerate res temps into the mid 70's. Some growers will cry that cooler water holds more dissolved oxygen, but I encourage you to look up some charts and see just how much 'more' DO 68f holds than 78f.
You are confused about organics and tea. The tea is perfect for organics...however organics themselves are NOT perfect for hydro. When you see me caution people against introducing organic material to the res, it is because they have proven to be prone to slime and are trying to prevent it. So we keep organic material out of the res which removes the food source for the slime, and we add the tea which displaces and hinders the slime. If you have no slime problems, the tea can and in fact should be used when using organics. If you do have slime, use the tea and drop the organics, or switch grow methods.
Organic material can not be eaten by plants. Never. It must first be decomposed by microbes. The microbes break down the organics into a form that is available for uptake by the roots. At that point, the organics have become chemical fertilizer. So anyone who implies that organic growing involves no chemicals either doesn't understand the process or has given in to the marketing hype. Synthetic chemical fertilizers simply remove the need for decomposition, and are available to the roots right away. Since hydro is about controlling and enhancing the environment, it doesn't make sense to give up part of that control to microbes, and depend on them for your nute balance. I prefer to control my own nute balance and use the microbes for their other uses.
So if you are using organic ferts you MUST add some beneficial decomposers to the water, or else you are inviting bad stuff to come in and take over.
From Skeptoid
In terms of disease, bennies will let you tolerate res temps into the mid 70's. Some growers will cry that cooler water holds more dissolved oxygen, but I encourage you to look up some charts and see just how much 'more' DO 68f holds than 78f.
You are confused about organics and tea. The tea is perfect for organics...however organics themselves are NOT perfect for hydro. When you see me caution people against introducing organic material to the res, it is because they have proven to be prone to slime and are trying to prevent it. So we keep organic material out of the res which removes the food source for the slime, and we add the tea which displaces and hinders the slime. If you have no slime problems, the tea can and in fact should be used when using organics. If you do have slime, use the tea and drop the organics, or switch grow methods.
Organic material can not be eaten by plants. Never. It must first be decomposed by microbes. The microbes break down the organics into a form that is available for uptake by the roots. At that point, the organics have become chemical fertilizer. So anyone who implies that organic growing involves no chemicals either doesn't understand the process or has given in to the marketing hype. Synthetic chemical fertilizers simply remove the need for decomposition, and are available to the roots right away. Since hydro is about controlling and enhancing the environment, it doesn't make sense to give up part of that control to microbes, and depend on them for your nute balance. I prefer to control my own nute balance and use the microbes for their other uses.
So if you are using organic ferts you MUST add some beneficial decomposers to the water, or else you are inviting bad stuff to come in and take over.
From Skeptoid
frogster
Active Member
I just switched from floranova line to the Humboldts master a&b program, Im sure the bennies will like this program better... The Hb do not have the high salts , I believe these high salts were killing off my bennies prematurely and causing my ph to rise at a higher rate than usual... Time will tell... The humboldts ppm rates are half of what I was using,, but My ppm seems to be climbing a bit... so perhaps these nutes are stronger even though the ppm rate is much lower.. Time will tell
frogster
Active Member
Im going to go back through the thread , but I though the tea provided Fulvic acid , Or should I supplement with something like .. ? Thx, frogster
FlavorFul
Fulvic acid is highly refined Humic acid. Using all natural methods of extraction only the longest carbon molecules in Humic acid are filtered out, giving us Fulvic acid. FlavorFul is a powerful 8% Fulvic acid concentrate for use on all of your favorite plants, in any gardening method. Although Fulvic Acid is a derivative of Humic Acid, there are several unique properties in both.
FlavorFulFulvic acid is highly refined Humic acid. Using all natural methods of extraction only the longest carbon molecules in Humic acid are filtered out, giving us Fulvic acid. FlavorFul is a powerful 8% Fulvic acid concentrate for use on all of your favorite plants, in any gardening method. Although Fulvic Acid is a derivative of Humic Acid, there are several unique properties in both.
frogster
Active Member
This is compliments of "The tasteful garden" website here : http://www.tastefulgarden.com/wormcastings.htm What Are Worm Castings?
Worm Castings contain a highly active biological mixture of bacteria, enzymes, remnants of plant matter and animal manure, as well as earthworm cocoons (while damp). The castings are rich in water-soluble plant nutrients, and contain more than 50% more humus than what is normally found in topsoil.
Worm Castings are packed with minerals that are essential for plant growth, such as concentrated nitrates, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium and calcium. It also contains manganese, copper, zinc, cobalt, borax, iron, carbon and nitrogen. However, the best of all is that these minerals are immediately available to the plant, without the risk of ever burning the plant. Remember that animal manure and chemical fertilizers have to be broken down in the soil before the plant can absorb them.
As the organic matter moves through the alimentary canal of the earthworm, a thin layer of oil is deposited on the castings. This layer erodes over a period of 2 months. So although the plant nutrients are immediately available, they are slowly released to last longer. The
cocoons in Worm Castings each contain between 2 and 10 eggs that hatch within 2 weeks. This means that the process of decomposition are continued by the young earthworms in the soil, provided that the soil is loose, damp and rich enough in organic matter for the worms to stay alive.
The bacteria in the alimentary canal of the earthworm transforms organic waste to natural fertilizer. The chemical changes that the organic wastes undergo include deodorizing and neutralizing. This means that the pH of the castings is 7 (neutral) and the castings are odorless (they smell like a forest after rain). The worm castings also contain the bacteria, so the process is continued in the soil, and microbiological activity is promoted.
What can Worm Castings be used for?
Worm Castings can be used as an ingredient of potting soil (as plant nutrients) for plants in and around the house. It can also be used as a planting additive for trees, vegetables, shrubs and flowers. When used as mulching material, Worm Castings will ensure that the minerals are absorbed directly into the soil when it is watered. Because Worm Castings will never burn plants, you can use as much of it as you like.
2. The worm castings have the ability to fix heavy metals in organic waste. This prevents plants from absorbing more of these chemical compounds than they need. These compounds can then be released later when the plants need them.
3. Worm Castings act as a barrier to help plants grow in soil where the pH levels are too high or too low. They prevent extreme pH levels from making it impossible for plants to absorb nutrients from the soil.
4. The humic acid in Worm Castings stimulate plant growth, even in very low concentrations. The humic acid is in an ionically distributed state in which it can easily be absorbed by the plant, over and above any normal mineral nutrients. Humic acid also stimulates the development of micro flora populations in the soil.
5. Worm Castings increase the ability of soil to retain water. The worm castings form aggregates, which are mineral clusters that combine in such a way that they can withstand water erosion and compaction, and also increase water retention.
6. Worm Castings reduce the acid-forming carbon in the soil, and increase the nitrogen levels in a state that the plant can easily use. Organic plant wastes usually have a carbon-nitrogen ratio of more than 20 to 1. Because of this ratio, the nitrogen is unavailable to plants, and the soil around the organic waste becomes acidic.
Recommendations and Quotes about Worm Castings
"Worm Castings outperform any commercial fertilizer I know of. The key factor is microbial activity. Research that I and others have done shows that microbial activity in worm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil and the organic matter that the worm ingests..."
"Earthworm castings are the best imaginable potting soil for greenhouses or house plants, as well as gardening and farming. It will not burn even the most delicate plants and all nutrients are water-soluble, making it an immediate plant food. The effect of earthworm castings used in any of these ways is immediately visible. They make plants grow fast and strong."
"Castings contain 5 times the available nitrogen, 7 times the available potash and 1 ½ times more calcium than that found in 12" of topsoil. Therefore, castings are supplied with available nutrients. The nutrients are also water-soluble and immediately available to the plant. You will find that most potting soils have a nutrient life for 2 to 5 days, where worm castings will last up to 6 times as long. You will need 5 times as much potting soil to do the same job as worm castings. So in the long run, worm castings are much cheaper and do a much better job. Also, castings hold 2 to 3 times their weight in water. That means you water less and the pot will stay damper for a longer period. Worm castings will not burn your plants; unlike using any fresh raw manure (cow, horse, etc.) which can burn root systems if not applied properly. . . . The manure passes through the worms' digestive system producing rich organic plant food and a slow releasing fertilizer which allows for better growth."
How to use Worm Castings:
For Germination
Use 20 to 30% Worm Castings with sand as an excellent germination mixture. It will also ensure continuous and lush growth for about three months, without you having to add any other plant food.
As a Soil Conditioner
If you hoe a layer of barren soil, add a layer of Worm Castings and give it some water, you will be surprised at the growth of your first season's plants.
As a Fertilizer
Sprinkle Worm Castings around the base of plants or lightly dig it in, and then add water. They can also be sprinkled on a large scale with a spreader. Remember: you cannot use too much Worm Castings – it cannot damage your plants.
As a Liquid Fertilizer
Worm Castings can easily be mixed with water. Use 1 cup Worm Castings for every gallon of water and wait 1 week. This liquid mixture can be used as an excellent fertilizer or leaf foliate spray. It also helps to control insects. Many people prefer this method of application.
We have known for hundreds of years that earthworms are the best way to improve plant growth and to increase plant yield, such as fruit. Earthworm castings are a wonder product of nature. So if you care about your soil, and your plants, then now is the time to get rid of your Miracle Gro and to use this 100% natural product.
How castings are grown and harvested...
Large wooden boxes are kept in a greenhouse with low light conditions and moist warm air. The boxes are filled with manure, cottonmeal, peatmoss and other natural products and then worms are added.
As the worms eat their way through this material, they digest it and it breaks down and becomes worm castings. The worms are carefully separated out and the castings are bagged up for you. Many times worms leave tiny eggs in the castings which later hatch and become great worms for your garden to continue their work! I dont think they are going to like my 55 gallon rez,,, unless they develop gills...
Worm Castings contain a highly active biological mixture of bacteria, enzymes, remnants of plant matter and animal manure, as well as earthworm cocoons (while damp). The castings are rich in water-soluble plant nutrients, and contain more than 50% more humus than what is normally found in topsoil.
Worm Castings are packed with minerals that are essential for plant growth, such as concentrated nitrates, phosphorus, magnesium, potassium and calcium. It also contains manganese, copper, zinc, cobalt, borax, iron, carbon and nitrogen. However, the best of all is that these minerals are immediately available to the plant, without the risk of ever burning the plant. Remember that animal manure and chemical fertilizers have to be broken down in the soil before the plant can absorb them.
As the organic matter moves through the alimentary canal of the earthworm, a thin layer of oil is deposited on the castings. This layer erodes over a period of 2 months. So although the plant nutrients are immediately available, they are slowly released to last longer. The
The bacteria in the alimentary canal of the earthworm transforms organic waste to natural fertilizer. The chemical changes that the organic wastes undergo include deodorizing and neutralizing. This means that the pH of the castings is 7 (neutral) and the castings are odorless (they smell like a forest after rain). The worm castings also contain the bacteria, so the process is continued in the soil, and microbiological activity is promoted.
What can Worm Castings be used for?
Worm Castings can be used as an ingredient of potting soil (as plant nutrients) for plants in and around the house. It can also be used as a planting additive for trees, vegetables, shrubs and flowers. When used as mulching material, Worm Castings will ensure that the minerals are absorbed directly into the soil when it is watered. Because Worm Castings will never burn plants, you can use as much of it as you like.
Benefits of Worm Castings
1. The humus in the worm castings extracts toxins and harmful fungi and bacteria from the soil. Worm Castings therefore have the ability to fight off plant diseases.2. The worm castings have the ability to fix heavy metals in organic waste. This prevents plants from absorbing more of these chemical compounds than they need. These compounds can then be released later when the plants need them.
3. Worm Castings act as a barrier to help plants grow in soil where the pH levels are too high or too low. They prevent extreme pH levels from making it impossible for plants to absorb nutrients from the soil.
4. The humic acid in Worm Castings stimulate plant growth, even in very low concentrations. The humic acid is in an ionically distributed state in which it can easily be absorbed by the plant, over and above any normal mineral nutrients. Humic acid also stimulates the development of micro flora populations in the soil.
5. Worm Castings increase the ability of soil to retain water. The worm castings form aggregates, which are mineral clusters that combine in such a way that they can withstand water erosion and compaction, and also increase water retention.
6. Worm Castings reduce the acid-forming carbon in the soil, and increase the nitrogen levels in a state that the plant can easily use. Organic plant wastes usually have a carbon-nitrogen ratio of more than 20 to 1. Because of this ratio, the nitrogen is unavailable to plants, and the soil around the organic waste becomes acidic.
Recommendations and Quotes about Worm Castings
"Worm Castings outperform any commercial fertilizer I know of. The key factor is microbial activity. Research that I and others have done shows that microbial activity in worm castings is 10 to 20 times higher than in the soil and the organic matter that the worm ingests..."
"Earthworm castings are the best imaginable potting soil for greenhouses or house plants, as well as gardening and farming. It will not burn even the most delicate plants and all nutrients are water-soluble, making it an immediate plant food. The effect of earthworm castings used in any of these ways is immediately visible. They make plants grow fast and strong."
"Castings contain 5 times the available nitrogen, 7 times the available potash and 1 ½ times more calcium than that found in 12" of topsoil. Therefore, castings are supplied with available nutrients. The nutrients are also water-soluble and immediately available to the plant. You will find that most potting soils have a nutrient life for 2 to 5 days, where worm castings will last up to 6 times as long. You will need 5 times as much potting soil to do the same job as worm castings. So in the long run, worm castings are much cheaper and do a much better job. Also, castings hold 2 to 3 times their weight in water. That means you water less and the pot will stay damper for a longer period. Worm castings will not burn your plants; unlike using any fresh raw manure (cow, horse, etc.) which can burn root systems if not applied properly. . . . The manure passes through the worms' digestive system producing rich organic plant food and a slow releasing fertilizer which allows for better growth."
How to use Worm Castings:
For Germination
Use 20 to 30% Worm Castings with sand as an excellent germination mixture. It will also ensure continuous and lush growth for about three months, without you having to add any other plant food.
As a Soil Conditioner
If you hoe a layer of barren soil, add a layer of Worm Castings and give it some water, you will be surprised at the growth of your first season's plants.
As a Fertilizer
Sprinkle Worm Castings around the base of plants or lightly dig it in, and then add water. They can also be sprinkled on a large scale with a spreader. Remember: you cannot use too much Worm Castings – it cannot damage your plants.
As a Liquid Fertilizer
Worm Castings can easily be mixed with water. Use 1 cup Worm Castings for every gallon of water and wait 1 week. This liquid mixture can be used as an excellent fertilizer or leaf foliate spray. It also helps to control insects. Many people prefer this method of application.
We have known for hundreds of years that earthworms are the best way to improve plant growth and to increase plant yield, such as fruit. Earthworm castings are a wonder product of nature. So if you care about your soil, and your plants, then now is the time to get rid of your Miracle Gro and to use this 100% natural product.
How castings are grown and harvested...
As the worms eat their way through this material, they digest it and it breaks down and becomes worm castings. The worms are carefully separated out and the castings are bagged up for you. Many times worms leave tiny eggs in the castings which later hatch and become great worms for your garden to continue their work! I dont think they are going to like my 55 gallon rez,,, unless they develop gills...
smithmds
Active Member
Hey Heisenberg, I found this link about a guy fighting cynobacteria in his fish tank. He used a product called Curpisorb to rid his tank of the brown slime algae. I was hoping to maybe have you read his story (takes just a couple minutes) and maybe share your thoughts?
He claims in it "Seachem Cuprisorb, in an old handkerchief in a canister filter for a week or so! The brown slime/snot algae is obviously dependent on iron for its growth, and taking the iron out of the water kills it quickly! Afterward, it's a simple matter to add a little iron back into the tank, to support any macroalgae that might be in the refugium"
http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/archive/index.php/t-395.html
Also, do you know of anything that kills cynobacteria that would be safe for our ladies? (this stuff seems promising ...http://www.google.com/search?q=Chemi-Clean)
He claims in it "Seachem Cuprisorb, in an old handkerchief in a canister filter for a week or so! The brown slime/snot algae is obviously dependent on iron for its growth, and taking the iron out of the water kills it quickly! Afterward, it's a simple matter to add a little iron back into the tank, to support any macroalgae that might be in the refugium"
http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/archive/index.php/t-395.html
Also, do you know of anything that kills cynobacteria that would be safe for our ladies? (this stuff seems promising ...http://www.google.com/search?q=Chemi-Clean)
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
Very interesting, thanks for sharing. I read lots of posts like that at aquarium forums when researching the slime. Looks like the curpisorb is great at removing metals from the water, so it wouldn't be an option for us.
I have never heard of anyone using chemi-clean. I know of two products which will cure the slime, but they must be ran continuously. The first is simple bleach, and the second is physan 20. Plenty of people use bleach with no ill effects. Physan 20 says in the instructions and in e-mails that it is fine to use continuously for plants not meant for consumption. No one has really every figured out if smoking counts as consumption. Ed Rosenthal says it's a perfectly safe product which breaks down into nitrogen. In any case, with a sterilizing product you must keep up continuous levels or else the slime will be right back and you be at square one again. Sterilization is often a losing battle.
I have never heard of anyone using chemi-clean. I know of two products which will cure the slime, but they must be ran continuously. The first is simple bleach, and the second is physan 20. Plenty of people use bleach with no ill effects. Physan 20 says in the instructions and in e-mails that it is fine to use continuously for plants not meant for consumption. No one has really every figured out if smoking counts as consumption. Ed Rosenthal says it's a perfectly safe product which breaks down into nitrogen. In any case, with a sterilizing product you must keep up continuous levels or else the slime will be right back and you be at square one again. Sterilization is often a losing battle.
NaturesMed
Active Member
Update on the Diatom Dilemma:
Veg system I:
Plants started about two weeks ago, started to see the brown algae dust collecting and plants growing VERY slow.
Three days ago: Full res change with zho/shield bene brew
First 24 hours: Ph seems stable. A coating of tiny air bubbles collected on the walls of the control res which all have little pieces of darker brown "bacteria sediment" attached or hanging on to the bubbles. I must say I usually use pretty clean non gunky nutes(Canna Aqua Vega and GH Flora 3-part for FLR) and the bene brew definitely clouded up the water and added some small junk pieces floating and collecting as noted. Maybe the cloudiness could help reduce the minimal light penetration contributing to the diatoms? To describe the junk, it looks about the same as it does when it first pours out of the fresh brew bucket, so I don't know if this is a normal thing for systems treated with the bene brew.
Second 24: A slightly slimy coating which comes off in sheets started developing on res walls, pump cords, and such. I also noticed a faint "swamp/pond" smell present. During this time the Ph dropped from 5.7 a total of about .5 as I corrected back. I did add some extra brew this day, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of normal starting amount
Third 24, Today: expecting the Ph to continue to drop I over-corrected a little last night to about 6.1 and today the Ph seems to have resumed a slow climb, about .3-.4 per day.
Veg System II Moms:
Just started a new batch of mothers two days ago in a hydro system I know to also have the diatoms previously. Used the bene tea in the first batch of nutes.
First 24: Ph is stable, seeing the same cloudiness and small bubbles with the attached brown bits as described above.
Second 24: Ph is rising slowly.
Due to the cloudiness and new collecting junk, I can't tell if the diatoms are still there or not. The slightly older plants seem like they might be growing a little faster but maybe not as fast as I would like, could need some recovery time. Also hard to tell the change in plants because I have been staring at them so much.
The slow Ph rise is about the same as the diatoms did before, but not sure if it is still them or another bio-active I introduced cleaning something up or the like.... I am a little worried that I have introduced other problems just because its generally gunkier than I am used to, but hoping thats positive gunk doing good gunky things... Honestly I would rather have any other gunk than the diatoms which absolutely devastated me before
Both res temps staying between 69 and 71
Questions:
Any thoughts on either of my systems, result analysis/suggestions?
Do I need to strain the tea as I add it to the res? Seems a little chunky, but I don't think the humus leaked...
I usually do full res changes and only leave the bit of solution that doesn't drain through the networking tubes. I know there has been discussion of if it hurts to not fully change the res, but is there any negatives to a full change inoculated with fresh brew?
Anybody have new thoughts on killing diatoms?
Veg system I:
Plants started about two weeks ago, started to see the brown algae dust collecting and plants growing VERY slow.
Three days ago: Full res change with zho/shield bene brew
First 24 hours: Ph seems stable. A coating of tiny air bubbles collected on the walls of the control res which all have little pieces of darker brown "bacteria sediment" attached or hanging on to the bubbles. I must say I usually use pretty clean non gunky nutes(Canna Aqua Vega and GH Flora 3-part for FLR) and the bene brew definitely clouded up the water and added some small junk pieces floating and collecting as noted. Maybe the cloudiness could help reduce the minimal light penetration contributing to the diatoms? To describe the junk, it looks about the same as it does when it first pours out of the fresh brew bucket, so I don't know if this is a normal thing for systems treated with the bene brew.
Second 24: A slightly slimy coating which comes off in sheets started developing on res walls, pump cords, and such. I also noticed a faint "swamp/pond" smell present. During this time the Ph dropped from 5.7 a total of about .5 as I corrected back. I did add some extra brew this day, maybe 1/3 to 1/2 of normal starting amount
Third 24, Today: expecting the Ph to continue to drop I over-corrected a little last night to about 6.1 and today the Ph seems to have resumed a slow climb, about .3-.4 per day.
Veg System II Moms:
Just started a new batch of mothers two days ago in a hydro system I know to also have the diatoms previously. Used the bene tea in the first batch of nutes.
First 24: Ph is stable, seeing the same cloudiness and small bubbles with the attached brown bits as described above.
Second 24: Ph is rising slowly.
Due to the cloudiness and new collecting junk, I can't tell if the diatoms are still there or not. The slightly older plants seem like they might be growing a little faster but maybe not as fast as I would like, could need some recovery time. Also hard to tell the change in plants because I have been staring at them so much.
The slow Ph rise is about the same as the diatoms did before, but not sure if it is still them or another bio-active I introduced cleaning something up or the like.... I am a little worried that I have introduced other problems just because its generally gunkier than I am used to, but hoping thats positive gunk doing good gunky things... Honestly I would rather have any other gunk than the diatoms which absolutely devastated me before
Both res temps staying between 69 and 71
Questions:
Any thoughts on either of my systems, result analysis/suggestions?
Do I need to strain the tea as I add it to the res? Seems a little chunky, but I don't think the humus leaked...
I usually do full res changes and only leave the bit of solution that doesn't drain through the networking tubes. I know there has been discussion of if it hurts to not fully change the res, but is there any negatives to a full change inoculated with fresh brew?
Anybody have new thoughts on killing diatoms?
KatBUSA
Well-Known Member
Heis or any one else who can help,
I have some sick Serrano Peppers that I'm testing on with this tea. My goal is to get this nailed so I can use it correctly on my Bhut Jolokia peppers with out any ill effects. One thing I have noticed is the the smell of the res. It has a swamp smell to it. Is this normal?
MY stats are below.
Aeroponics
PPM - 600ish
PH- 5.8
Res Temp- 66 deg
The PH does seem to be stable and slowly rises over time like it should. The smell of the res has thrown me off a little. Just want to make sure this is normal. Standing by with H2O2 in case I have same bad microbes growing!
Thanks in advance!
PS.
I read about another person who was using an Aero unit. As long as the pump is high pressure and using the correct sprayers clogging shouldn't be too much of an issue. Yet again I'm sure any thing will clog under the right conditions.
I have some sick Serrano Peppers that I'm testing on with this tea. My goal is to get this nailed so I can use it correctly on my Bhut Jolokia peppers with out any ill effects. One thing I have noticed is the the smell of the res. It has a swamp smell to it. Is this normal?
MY stats are below.
Aeroponics
PPM - 600ish
PH- 5.8
Res Temp- 66 deg
The PH does seem to be stable and slowly rises over time like it should. The smell of the res has thrown me off a little. Just want to make sure this is normal. Standing by with H2O2 in case I have same bad microbes growing!
Thanks in advance!
PS.
I read about another person who was using an Aero unit. As long as the pump is high pressure and using the correct sprayers clogging shouldn't be too much of an issue. Yet again I'm sure any thing will clog under the right conditions.
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
The smell of the tea can range from nothing at all to an earthy, mossy, shroomy or soil type smell. Bad microbes smell like dirty gym socks, sweat, musty stagnate water, or even death. I can't really say where 'swampy' fits into those... A pond smell isn't necessarily bad.
When I do a res change I remove as much water as I can so that I may start with a correct nute balance. I just reinoculate. I did forget to add bennies one time and 24 hours later I noticed signs of trouble. I just added the bennies and the next night everything was fine.
The tea really shouldn't have chunks floating in it, although i'm not sure it hurts anything. Aside from looking cloudy it should appear clean. I used hosiery once as a filter and it let too much debris through for my taste. Of course if you use a finer filter like a sock, you make it harder for the fungi to get through, so maybe chunks are a good sign. I figure we add enough fungi anyway and I come from a history of sterile res (my mentor grew ebb and flow and insisted on a pristine res) so I'm used to clean water, and dislike debris.
When I do a res change I remove as much water as I can so that I may start with a correct nute balance. I just reinoculate. I did forget to add bennies one time and 24 hours later I noticed signs of trouble. I just added the bennies and the next night everything was fine.
The tea really shouldn't have chunks floating in it, although i'm not sure it hurts anything. Aside from looking cloudy it should appear clean. I used hosiery once as a filter and it let too much debris through for my taste. Of course if you use a finer filter like a sock, you make it harder for the fungi to get through, so maybe chunks are a good sign. I figure we add enough fungi anyway and I come from a history of sterile res (my mentor grew ebb and flow and insisted on a pristine res) so I'm used to clean water, and dislike debris.
many thanks for the info it has proven invaluable!!! a quick question. In regards to adding RE or rhizo to the tea itself and not the res......
-32 glln res
-brewing 2 gllns of tea
are you adding 32ml of RE/rhizo to tea or only 2ml of RE/rhizo to tea??? Any clarification would be geat....also, if your adding directly to the tea are you now not topping off the res with straight RE/rhizo when doing refills???
-32 glln res
-brewing 2 gllns of tea
are you adding 32ml of RE/rhizo to tea or only 2ml of RE/rhizo to tea??? Any clarification would be geat....also, if your adding directly to the tea are you now not topping off the res with straight RE/rhizo when doing refills???
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
I add RE to my tea at 1ml per gallon and put none directly into the res. Others add it a bit stronger, 2-5ml per 2 gallon. It gives the tea a boost for sure. You could use it directly in the res as long as you have microbes in the water.
I have never used the Rhizo so I am just guessing at it's dose. I would go with the recommended amount for 2 gallons and half it.
NaturesMed
Active Member
Thanks Heis,
How often do you usually do a full res change? I ask because I usually do it as often as every five to seven days in veg and four to five in flower because as you say, I also like keeping a fresh balanced batch of nutes. Do you see any issues with reinoculating that frequently?
On the fourth 24 hours of my First veg system the water cleared up from being quite cloudy, very easy to see through. Is this some kind of sign from the bacteria? They finished eating something or all died maybe? Is that good or should I take it as a sign to add more? The Ph has seemed to stabilize with fading cloudiness.
When using the bene tea on a clean normally functioning system, should it replace the use of an enzyme product like cannazym? I know you definitely warn against it when battling root problems, but I do use it for normal growth.... Would love for it to save me that extra $$$!
Quick question on your last comment regarding RE/rhizo. Are you referring to rhizotonic and Root Excelurator?
And you add this when mixing the brew I gather?
Thanks again Heisenberg, you have helped me greatly, and if the Diatoms are history then you are truly my savior!
Nmed
How often do you usually do a full res change? I ask because I usually do it as often as every five to seven days in veg and four to five in flower because as you say, I also like keeping a fresh balanced batch of nutes. Do you see any issues with reinoculating that frequently?
On the fourth 24 hours of my First veg system the water cleared up from being quite cloudy, very easy to see through. Is this some kind of sign from the bacteria? They finished eating something or all died maybe? Is that good or should I take it as a sign to add more? The Ph has seemed to stabilize with fading cloudiness.
When using the bene tea on a clean normally functioning system, should it replace the use of an enzyme product like cannazym? I know you definitely warn against it when battling root problems, but I do use it for normal growth.... Would love for it to save me that extra $$$!
Quick question on your last comment regarding RE/rhizo. Are you referring to rhizotonic and Root Excelurator?
And you add this when mixing the brew I gather?
Thanks again Heisenberg, you have helped me greatly, and if the Diatoms are history then you are truly my savior!
Nmed
Heisenberg
Well-Known Member
I do a res change no sooner than 7 days and no longer than 2 weeks. The nute balance should be okay for quite a while actually, but it depends on the number of plants drinking from the res, what stage of growth, ect. 4 days is a bit wasteful IMO. It always takes me a day or so to get things dialed in, so i'm not eager to reset things until I feel it's necessary. You should use your PH and PPM flux to get a feel of when the res needs changed.
It's normal for the res to get cloudy at first and then clear up after a day or so, and eventually become quite clear. You only need to add more every three days, even longer once you have purged any disease. It probably clears up because the microbes have concentrated on the areas with food and because of sediment falling out.
Microbes completely replace the need for enzyme products while growing. Enzymes are still useful for things like cleaning up coco or even hydroton after a grow, but if your adding regular tea to the res then enzymes are redundant.
Rhizotonic and roots excelurator are both great products and can be added to the tea to give it a boost. I use RE at 1ml per gallon of tea. When I first tried the product I was not using tea yet. Back then, it seemed to make the slime worse, which is why I don't use it directly in the res now. The speculation is that it has some rocket fuel in it to give things a jump start, which unfortunately jump starts the slime as well. Since using it in the tea it hasn't caused any problems, and definitely gives the roots a boost. I have never used rhizotonic but it looks like a great product and has received many positive reviews.
It's normal for the res to get cloudy at first and then clear up after a day or so, and eventually become quite clear. You only need to add more every three days, even longer once you have purged any disease. It probably clears up because the microbes have concentrated on the areas with food and because of sediment falling out.
Microbes completely replace the need for enzyme products while growing. Enzymes are still useful for things like cleaning up coco or even hydroton after a grow, but if your adding regular tea to the res then enzymes are redundant.
Rhizotonic and roots excelurator are both great products and can be added to the tea to give it a boost. I use RE at 1ml per gallon of tea. When I first tried the product I was not using tea yet. Back then, it seemed to make the slime worse, which is why I don't use it directly in the res now. The speculation is that it has some rocket fuel in it to give things a jump start, which unfortunately jump starts the slime as well. Since using it in the tea it hasn't caused any problems, and definitely gives the roots a boost. I have never used rhizotonic but it looks like a great product and has received many positive reviews.