Dry vs wet

Ive been making bho for about a year and a half now and have a question, when I first started I would grind my weed up basically to powder and use a plastic honey bee extractor and my oil was runny an black in color then I started just busting my nugs up really small taking all the leaves off and all the stems out and would whip it with a utensil for 20-60 mins also putting it on and off of a stove burner on low and it would butter up Into an amber or goldish color. Now I use a glass extractor and I just take the stems out and bust the big nugs a little and I also use less butane and my oil come out dry and partially honeycombed or clay like. I'm wondering what Is the difference between them all? Does the dry state mean less butane? Can you achieve the wax state while also getting rid of the butane? Any input is appreciated

for all methods I used a hot water bath, with water that was barely boiling

150 views ...

Don't be suprised if people arnt to quick to give up their teks...but I think the difference is moisture/THC/wax/fats/lipids/whatever the fuck els content, maybe strain dependent? Sorry if im no help...I'm curious too man

not sure what the dry state means, it could just be different strains of weed each time, or it could just be frozen butane that will melt in the dish once heated up. different strains and typed will make the oil differ by huge amounts. from a black tasty tar to a blonde oil that is possibly gross, etc.. or vice versa.

I find grinding it to the same consistency as when youre rolling a joint works pretty good.

beginner420 said:

Ive been making bho for about a year and a half now and have a question, when I first started I would grind my weed up basically to powder and use a plastic honey bee extractor and my oil was runny an black in color then I started just busting my nugs up really small taking all the leaves off and all the stems out and would whip it with a utensil for 20-60 mins also putting it on and off of a stove burner on low and it would butter up Into an amber or goldish color. Now I use a glass extractor and I just take the stems out and bust the big nugs a little and I also use less butane and my oil come out dry and partially honeycombed or clay like. I'm wondering what Is the difference between them all? Does the dry state mean less butane? Can you achieve the wax state while also getting rid of the butane? Any input is appreciated

for all methods I used a hot water bath, with water that was barely boiling

Click to expand...

i have had something similar to this happen when i had boiling water under my pyrex and blasted right onto 200 degree glass, it appeared that the butane evaporated immediately.
i take it there was no pooling of the butane?
what is your return ratio?
what temp is your dish at that your blasting onto? doesnt have to be exact guess
and how much does your tube hold and how many cans are you using?

My return ratio has been around 18% there was no pooling of butane, I would say its around 150-200 I blast into a Pyrex dish with a bigger Pyrex half filled with almost boiling water. My tube seems to hold around 2 oz when I put 56 grams in it it was basically full but could probably shove a few more grams in, and I used 3 cans of colibri

i dont know i use 2 cans on 80 to 90 grams my water is at 120 and mine pools up

2 cans is it, damn. I run 2 cans through a half oz and it still comes out yellow. maybe thats our main difference. interesting.

Twitch. said:

i dont know i use 2 cans on 80 to 90 grams my water is at 120 and mine pools up

Click to expand...

What does your bho end up like? Sticky or dry

when its purged?

Yea can you achieve a sticky honeycomb?

beginner420 said:

Ive been making bho for about a year and a half now and have a question, when I first started I would grind my weed up basically to powder and use a plastic honey bee extractor and my oil was runny an black in color then I started just busting my nugs up really small taking all the leaves off and all the stems out and would whip it with a utensil for 20-60 mins also putting it on and off of a stove burner on low and it would butter up Into an amber or goldish color. Now I use a glass extractor and I just take the stems out and bust the big nugs a little and I also use less butane and my oil come out dry and partially honeycombed or clay like. I'm wondering what Is the difference between them all? Does the dry state mean less butane? Can you achieve the wax state while also getting rid of the butane? Any input is appreciated

for all methods I used a hot water bath, with water that was barely boiling

Click to expand...

Breaking up the nugs loosely by hand and limiting the washes is a good way to keep the extract lighter colored, as is dropping the extraction temperature.

If you freeze your material and butane, the colors will lighten as well, and when we super chill our butane holding tank in dry ice and denatured alcohol, the extract colors lighten up considerably.

I like to winterize my oil, which lightens the colors some, by removing the opaque to translucient waxes that are in solution, and if we are making oil for purdy bragging quality pictures, after winterizing it using a Whatman #1 lab filter, we again filter it down to 0.2 microns using a syringe filter, to eliminate the ultra fines.

You lose some terpenes in the winterizing process, though it is still tasty and primo, so you might try it both ways and decide for yourself.

There are two primary things that "wet" the extract. One is retained solvent, and the other is partial decarboxylation. Boiling water is too hot, and may be part of the issue.


It is a mixed bag, because using more heat to remove the solvent decarboxylates the oil, so spreading it thin and using around 130F is how I did it before vacuum. After it is purged, it will also speed waxing up if you whip air in it, though that also limits the life of the wax.

The easiest way to make butane free wax, is to get a vacuum pump and chamber, with heating capabilities. If you can fit it in your budget, you can make your life a lot easier if you pick up a vacuum system.

[FONT=&quot]I like to purge first and then wax, so I cook it in a thin film at 115F until solvent free, and then roll it into a ball, flatten it, and start at 110F and work up in 10F increments, under -29.5" vacuum, until it waxes, usually by 130F. Sort of like tempering chocolate, to make truffles.............

[/FONT]

so.. you freeze all your tools and everything and get it nice and cold, ok, but what about when you go to purge the butane?? how do you purge it without getting it warm and darkening its color?

also, how about when winterizing... you keep everything extremely cold and it still comes out a very light color?

you keep going until you get wax.. why? is that for personal?

vacpurge said:

so.. you freeze all your tools and everything and get it nice and cold, ok, but what about when you go to purge the butane?? how do you purge it without getting it warm and darkening its color?

also, how about when winterizing... you keep everything extremely cold and it still comes out a very light color?

you keep going until you get wax.. why? is that for personal?

Click to expand...

I vacuum purge at 115F, which still leaves the colors light. When cold boiling, the puddle doesn't reach 115F until the alcohol is mostly gone.

I keep everything 0F when winterizing, and cold boil away the alcohol.

I stop at shatter or taffy for my own use. I make wax to learn how myself, because our students regularly wanted to know how and I want to better understand what is going on with hydrates.

I also have tasted some fine waxes. Three of us skunk pharmers helped judge the Seattle Cup concentrates this year, and the first place winner was a wax.

Of note, is that all the judges scores were blind to each others, including us pharmers, yet when they tallied them all up, first and second places were already decided and only the third place required a second round of testing to break the tie.

Having said that, I would have signed my name to at least 19 of them and proudly claimed a lot of those, so it was no slam dunk. It was also a testament to the quality of the judges that they picked, that blind scores should fall so close.

ah, I thought we were talking butane here. my bad.

cold boiling is done at room temp right, in the vacuum chamber? with the vacuum constantly running? what does that do to the vac pump oil?

what kind of dish do you do it in, and how do you recover it afterwards... I am thinking a small glass bowl and scrape it I guess.


I remember I put a dish of everclear into my vacuum chamber and it didnt work well at all... just made a giant mess, dripped THROUGH the parchment paper, and didnt completely evap no matter what I did. not fun.

now that I think of it, does freezing butane tools and material really matter... as the butane pretty much freezes anything anyways doesnt it?

this is what happened to a some bubba bho ...after I whipped it in my pyrex dish it for 5 min... over a pan of boiling water







put the budder in a small glass vile..... turned on a heat gun 140..... it melted into oil...easy way to fill a vile

vacpurge said:

ah, I thought we were talking butane here. my bad.

cold boiling is done at room temp right, in the vacuum chamber? with the vacuum constantly running? what does that do to the vac pump oil?

what kind of dish do you do it in, and how do you recover it afterwards... I am thinking a small glass bowl and scrape it I guess.


I remember I put a dish of everclear into my vacuum chamber and it didnt work well at all... just made a giant mess, dripped THROUGH the parchment paper, and didnt completely evap no matter what I did. not fun.

now that I think of it, does freezing butane tools and material really matter... as the butane pretty much freezes anything anyways doesnt it?

Click to expand...

Cold boiling can be done with or without heat, and I usually use 115F, so that I can finish it in the same dish without changing the settings. Here is a boiling point chart for ethanol under vacuum.

I like to use a large Pyrex casserole dish or pie plate, to get the most surface area exposed to the vacuum, for maximum speed. I place a sheet of glass over the top of the dish, because ethanol bumps when it boils and blows specs of oil everywhere. It is easier scraped off the glass sheet, than the oven or chamber walls.

We usually scrape after cold boiling, as it leaves a uniform film over the entire bottom and some on sides.

Freezing everything keeps your butane liquid longer. While the butane is busy freezing everything, everything is busy heating it from a liquid to a gas.