Drip Drip Goes The Uniseal (Leaking!)

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I have the old cch2o system and the new 2019 model. And both have bigger "feeds" then returns. In fact it's 2" feed on both new and old, ¾" return on old system and 1“ return on new.
Maybe I'm not visualizing things right based on the description.

My return lines at 1" and my supply lines are 1/2". Works great.

So do the bulkhead fittings.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Maybe I'm not visualizing things right based on the description.

My return lines at 1" and my supply lines are 1/2". Works great.

So do the bulkhead fittings.
He means sites connect with 2" but I'm pretty sure he means 3". And the return he's talking about is the line off the 3" Tee fitting that reduces to the 3/4-1" tubing running to the inline pump in front of the control res.
images (9).jpeg
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
He means sites connect with 2" but I'm pretty sure he means 3". And the return he's talking about is the line off the 3" Tee fitting that reduces to the 3/4-1" tubing running to the inline pump in front of the control res.
View attachment 4275010
Okay, got it.

That's the kind of dipshit engineering that made me design my own RDWC from scratch, and I ended up with a system that uses less power, has far less than half the parts and not only doesn't need airstones and the pump to drive them but doesn't even need to be kept cool.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Okay, got it.

That's the kind of dipshit engineering that made me design my own RDWC from scratch, and I ended up with a system that uses less power, has far less than half the parts and not only doesn't need airstones and the pump to drive them but doesn't even need to be kept cool.
I keep it nice n cool myself. ;)

luh dem white roots.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I keep it nice n cool myself. ;)

luh dem white roots.
My plants grew faster when the water was warmer.

The only reason to keep the water cold is to be a crutch for inadequate oxygenation and agitation. Well- it's great for hydro store profits- keeps you coming back to buy more shit!
 
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N.R.G.

Well-Known Member
My plants grew faster when the water was warmer.

The only reason to keep the water cold is to be a crutch for inadequate oxygenation and agitation. Well- it's great for hydro store profits- keeps you coming back to buy more shit!
You are 100% correct that the plants grow faster in warmer water. I run chillers as well though just to be safe. I would be devastated if I lost a whole harvest half way through due to root rot. On the flip side I'd love to not need chillers but have not tried it yet myself. Maybe one day I'll experiment with a small system and see if I can dial it in.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
You guys always say this but I personally have seen complete opposite.

I've always chilled the flower tent but in my Veg area, 2 gal bucket system,
Even at 75*, brown stringy roots, very small and sickly looking. Plants are healthy but roots look like shit.
I added the chiller after several if not dozens of runs without it and every run since then, running at 68* my roots EXPLODE out of my netpot, white fishbone hairs everywhere, all off the clone stem coming from every which way. Like in the pic here.IMAG0050.jpg NOT TO MENTION, I have 2 totes for moms above this setup on a shelf that are in about 4-5gals of UNchilled, bubble curtain aerated water, in each tote. Same thing.roots look like SHIT. Skinny Ass weak stem, but indeed wonderful growth at the top. It's strange.
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Fresh brand new, just now pics to further express my point.

Nice, happy and beautiful GhostTrainxMSH growth right?
IMAG0437.jpg IMAG0438.jpg
2months old mama. not so fast... Check the stem and the Roots. Yuck.
IMAG0439.jpg IMAG0440.jpg
Then we go down below to clones that came off this exact mother that are less Than a month old since rooted and put in there.
IMAG0441.jpg IMAG0442.jpg IMAG0443.jpg IMAG0444.jpg IMAG0445.jpg IMAG0446.jpg
 
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Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
Wow, it's great to see this thread still alive! You guys shared a lot of awesome information! Went back and re-read the entire thread. :)

I will be moving out of my 4x8 so I have to redesign my system. Old containers will be too big to!

Can I get some of your guys' thoughts on this new design?

I was thinking of going with the 3" under current bulkheads. Will cost me about 16USD each, shipping and tax included.

Run a pump from my reservoir up to the top of my containers and waterfall. It's a 1000gph pump, or I will have to purchase another smaller pump? (I may run an air pump and one stone along that same line right into each container.)

The drawing isn't exactly to scale but it's fairly close.


NEW RDWC Sketchup.jpg
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Wow, it's great to see this thread still alive! You guys shared a lot of awesome information! Went back and re-read the entire thread. :)

I will be moving out of my 4x8 so I have to redesign my system. Old containers will be too big to!

Can I get some of your guys' thoughts on this new design?

I was thinking of going with the 3" under current bulkheads. Will cost me about 16USD each, shipping and tax included.

Run a pump from my reservoir up to the top of my containers and waterfall. It's a 1000gph pump, or I will have to purchase another smaller pump? (I may run an air pump and one stone along that same line right into each container.)

The drawing isn't exactly to scale but it's fairly close.


View attachment 4275709
If you waterfall each site, it is entirely pointless to use airstones and pumps.

Also per your drawing, lose the end connections. You only need a straight shot to the res. No need to connect them together. Secondly, you can put a small bulkhead of 3/4-1" for a line out the bottom side of your res ONLY if you're using an inline water pump. Otherwise, just use a submersible one, and have it come out through the very top side of the res wall, or even better the lid if it's a hinged one like the Current Culture has with their EZ Store containers.

As for the waterfalls, don't go through the lid, use a grommet and a 90 from the inside like this. Makes opening then easier.

IMAG0393.jpg IMAG0395.jpg IMAG0396.jpg
Will you be using a water chiller?
 
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Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
My plants seem happy at 73F/23C with bennies. I bought a 1/4hp chiller and never even plugged it in. -.-

I'm presuming temps will stay around that with the new setup as well. If not I will have to add a closed loop and throw that into the reservoir where the A/c currently is. (have a wart brewer already to.) Then move the A/c somewhere else.

When you say lose the end connections, do you just mean the side that I have labelled in the diagram as, 3" pipe and 3" corner?

Going inline with the pump to keep water factors of raising water temps down.

Good point on the side entry for the waterfall. I heard or read somewhere in this thread it's better to have the waterfall closer to the net pot ? Also I really only need to open the lid when it's harvest time. But I might do the side entry.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
My plants seem happy at 73F/23C with bennies. I bought a 1/4hp chiller and never even plugged it in. -.-

I'm presuming temps will stay around that with the new setup as well. If not I will have to add a closed loop and throw that into the reservoir where the A/c currently is. (have a wart brewer already to.) Then move the A/c somewhere else.

When you say lose the end connections, do you just mean the side that I have labelled in the diagram as, 3" pipe and 3" corner?

Going inline with the pump to keep water factors of raising water temps down.

Good point on the side entry for the waterfall. I heard or read somewhere in this thread it's better to have the waterfall closer to the net pot ? Also I really only need to open the lid when it's harvest time. But I might do the side entry.
Yes on the end connection removal.
Keep the waterfall as close to the tote WALL as you can because the roots will interfere with the splashing if they get too close. Do it just like the pic. 1/2" barbs elbows and rubber grommets.
 

Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
I was hoping to run two more things by you guys. :)
The new system is an 80Gal system. 16gal x4 containers (+1 16gal rez. same container type).


Purchasing my bulkheads now, going to go with the Current Culture.

1) I want to go 3" but am wondering if I can use 2" bulkheads for the return? (I found the bigger the hole the more it compromises the buckets integrity.) Or should a 3" be okay?


2) And for a pump to top-feed/waterfall with... will a 1000GPH (active aqua adjustable) water pump do? I keep reading mixed amounts for recalculations, some say 2-4 some say 10 per hour. If I wanted to not use air pumps and just waterfall only. That 1000GPH should be more than enough right? (Could I get away with a 600GPH pump?)
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
I run the 2" bulkheads in my ghetto UC system between totes and use a 1.5" on the pump feed side. What I found was that if I tucked the root mass under itself towards the upstream side of the tote, it never tried to grow back into the drain fitting. My system only runs 40 gals. and the 900gph pump keeps everything well mixed.
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I run the 2" bulkheads in my ghetto UC system between totes and use a 1.5" on the pump feed side. What I found was that if I tucked the root mass under itself towards the upstream side of the tote, it never tried to grow back into the drain fitting. My system only runs 40 gals. and the 900gph pump keeps everything well mixed.
You can actually do that with the roots yeah. You can basically just tie them in a knot for lack of a better explanation. Just don't pull it tight obviously. Just make the loop.
And
I was hoping to run two more things by you guys. :)
The new system is an 80Gal system. 16gal x4 containers (+1 16gal rez. same container type).


Purchasing my bulkheads now, going to go with the Current Culture.

1) I want to go 3" but am wondering if I can use 2" bulkheads for the return? (I found the bigger the hole the more it compromises the buckets integrity.) Or should a 3" be okay?


2) And for a pump to top-feed/waterfall with... will a 1000GPH (active aqua adjustable) water pump do? I keep reading mixed amounts for recalculations, some say 2-4 some say 10 per hour. If I wanted to not use air pumps and just waterfall only. That 1000GPH should be more than enough right? (Could I get away with a 600GPH pump?)
You'll be just fine with a 600GPS if you only have to feed 4 sites. 3/4" PVC works best for your manifold Theron the tees, or crosses, use a reducer and barbed threaded fitting.IMAG0393.jpg IMAG0395.jpg IMAG0396.jpg download (4).jpeg download (5).jpeg images (8).jpeg
 

Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
I wasn't as much worried about roots going in the 2" bulkhead. I find even one airstone, and the roots will wrap around the stone and stay away from the bulkheads/pipes. But your loop the roots in a circle would work well too!

My main concern was, will the water return into the res and level out with 2"bulkhead, or will the 1000GPH pump empty the res before the water can releveled?
 
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Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
I wasn't as much worried about roots going in the 2" bulkhead. I find even one airstone, and the roots will wrap around the stone and stay away from the bulkheads/pipes. But your loop the roots in a circle would work well too!

My main concern was, will the water return into the res and level out with 2"bulkhead, or will the 1000GPH pump empty the res before the water can relieved?
2" is more than enough. I was using 1" black vinyl before and that was my problem. So I went to 2" which is 4X the room for water to flow through and now you can't even tell the pump is on when you look at the res.

P.s.
Don't Use AIRSTONES, and if you build your manifold with 3/4" PVC and 1/2" connections to each site, 600gph is MORE than enough. 1000 most likely will be strained by the small outlet size and get hot in your water. You definitely do not want that.
 
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