DIY with Quantum Boards

MedMonkey

Active Member
While this is good advice for anything electric, if your fixture is live to the touch you have done something wrong. Stop what you are doing (or trying to do) and hire a qualified electrician.

All of the copper traces are inside the QB288 board and all other wires and connections should be insulated. I will caution everyone that tugging wires though a hole in bare metal does tend to compromise thin wire insulation so you are at risk of a short and shocking yourself (or damaging equipment) if you are not gentle during installation. Once you plug your light in and test it then it is wise to use a voltmeter to see if your board is live but to me that is common sense when doing DIYs.

If you really do not know what you are doing then please hire a qualified electrician. With all parts on hand they should be able build this pretty quickly.

Thank you
 

MedMonkey

Active Member
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
 
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Norml56

Well-Known Member
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
according to HLG website you would want to wire those boards in series based off the driver you chose. I just put wire caps on my dimmer wires.
 

Ryante55

Well-Known Member
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
Yes that's fine and just cap the wires off. If you cap them separately I think you get an extra 100ma or so vs connecting them. But I haven't used a b series in a few years so maybe someone else can chime in to confirm.
 

stawawager

Well-Known Member
While this is good advice for anything electric, if your fixture is live to the touch you have done something wrong. Stop what you are doing (or trying to do) and hire a qualified electrician.

All of the copper traces are inside the QB288 board and all other wires and connections should be insulated. I will caution everyone that tugging wires though a hole in bare metal does tend to compromise thin wire insulation so you are at risk of a short and shocking yourself (or damaging equipment) if you are not gentle during installation. Once you plug your light in and test it then it is wise to use a voltmeter to see if your board is live but to me that is common sense when doing DIYs.

If you really do not know what you are doing then please hire a qualified electrician. With all parts on hand they should be able build this pretty quickly.
I made my wire holes a little bit bigger and use self-sealing silicon tape to protect the wire.

Ps - maybe someone doesn't want to take a grow light to an electrician?
 
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