DIY with Quantum Boards

Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
I
ilovereggae said:
I think I see the confusion @Frank Nitty. They are wired in series! None of us paid enough attention to the photos you posted and conclusions were jumped to bc u mixed up the terminology. All is well you have them wired the right way.

The green wires connect the boards together, and you have a single red white pos/neg going back to the driver.

If it was running in parallel, each board would have its own white and red wire going to the driver directly, and no green wires connecting boards.

I stick with my original comment that those molex connectors are shitty and ive broken 2 or 3 myself.

So everyone made some mistakes, can we all roll some fats spliffs now and be friends again pls ;)
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I wasn't directing what I said to you,I really didn't want to say anything but it felt like he was calling me stupid on the sly... I'm passionate about this stuff and I have lights and tents not doing anything because I'm electrically disadvantaged and it gets frustrating when I ask for help and people say: "oh you're going to fry your shit for having it running like that." That was not what I wanted to hear at the time, feel me???
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
I don't think anyone was trying to make you feel stupid. I myself am confused. The kit on HLG's site says to wire in series, but you wired in parallel, so we are curious what exactly the setup is. What driver do you have on those two QB288's?
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HLG-240H-C1750A
 
PJ Diaz

PJ Diaz

Well-Known Member
As you can see, the output voltage range is 71-143V, and I believe that QB288's like around 54V. Of course the driver can only put out so much current, which is why the boards aren't smoking, but it does sound like you've over volted them.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
As you can see, the output voltage range is 71-143V, and I believe that QB288's like around 54V. Of course the driver can only put out so much current, which is why the boards aren't smoking, but it does sound like you've over volted them.
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hes running them in series not parallel check my last post and his photos on the previous page.
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
As you can see, the output voltage range is 71-143V, and I believe that QB288's like around 54V. Of course the driver can only put out so much current, which is why the boards aren't smoking, but it does sound like you've over volted them.
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Bro,if I would never have moved,these lights would be still up and running... There was never any problem with them,no flickering, power surges, anything of that sort... The only thing i unhooked was the driver, put the light back in its box and that was it... Opened the box,hooked the driver back up the same way that I took it off and now I'm at this point... And all the drivers are brand new...
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
hes running them in series not parallel check my last post and his photos on the previous page.
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I don't know how I'm running them,I just followed hlg guidelines... they used to show diagrams of the different ways to hook them up and I've been going crazy trying to find them... I thought that I was being smart buy going the diy route...
 
Frank Nitty

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
As you can see, the output voltage range is 71-143V, and I believe that QB288's like around 54V. Of course the driver can only put out so much current, which is why the boards aren't smoking, but it does sound like you've over volted them.
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This right here is like speaking a foreign language to me... I have no idea what you mean... The technical side of this I have no understanding, but what goes on UNDER the lights is the world that I'm comfortable in... Now if you show me how to hook the light up, I can do that, but that conversation you just had with me I could never explain that to someone else...
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
I don't know how I'm running them,I just followed hlg guidelines... they used to show diagrams of the different ways to hook them up and I've been going crazy trying to find them... I thought that I was being smart buy going the diy route...
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its all good man, its all a learning experience for all of us. you are definitely running in series. and don't feel bad 3 years ago I had a 50/50 chance of answering wrong when asked whether the wall outlets were AC or DC lol. I just really started to understand how to read datasheets and how to design circuits in the last year. Still learning every day.

DIY definitely has advantages in that you can swap drivers, switch up your layout and do all kinds of fun stuff. overall for me it makes it so I can afford the latest tech for a fraction of the cost of a complete fixture. The downside is the more u take the stuff apart the higher the chance something breaks. To me its like Ikea furniture. It's gonna need a couple extra screws and maybe some duct tape to hold the drawers together once u move it a few times.

Definitely a bummer, good news its a super easy fix to solder a new connector or hardwire a wire w wago directly to the board.

Also part of what u are paying HLG for is customer service so if you haven't emailed them yet I definitely would see what they say.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
ilovereggae said:
I think I see the confusion @Frank Nitty. They are wired in series! None of us paid enough attention to the photos you posted and conclusions were jumped to bc u mixed up the terminology. All is well you have them wired the right way.

The green wires connect the boards together, and you have a single red white pos/neg going back to the driver.

If it was running in parallel, each board would have its own white and red wire going to the driver directly, and no green wires connecting boards.

I stick with my original comment that those molex connectors are shitty and ive broken 2 or 3 myself.

So everyone made some mistakes, can we all roll some fat spliffs now and be friends again pls ;)
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They aren't wired in series. Right now they are wired in Parallel or I'm higher than I thought. I usually can't argue with anything you say Reggae.
IMG_4561.PNG
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
Frank Nitty said:
I have a C2100 also,but that's for the 4 qb132s that I have... Need to get a dimmer switch for it though... My main problem is that I'm getting more pissed off because this should fire right up...
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And those 132's need to be ran in series with that driver,

You're light isn't firing right up because you have it wired wrong and have already probably fucked it up.

I'm sorry that this isn't what you want to hear, but I don't sugar coat shit. I'm too honest.
 
PadawanWarrior

PadawanWarrior

Well-Known Member
PJ Diaz said:
As you can see, the output voltage range is 71-143V, and I believe that QB288's like around 54V. Of course the driver can only put out so much current, which is why the boards aren't smoking, but it does sound like you've over volted them.
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The difference is constant current vs constant voltage. If you want to run them in parallel you want the constant voltage ones. The ones that end in 54.

If you want to run in series you want the constant current drivers. The C in the C1750A means it's a constant current driver that runs on 1750 milliamperes.
 
ilovereggae

ilovereggae

Well-Known Member
PadawanWarrior said:
They aren't wired in series. Right now they are wired in Parallel or I'm higher than I thought. I usually can't argue with anything you say Reggae.
View attachment 4751401
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you are 100% right. I dunno what I was thinking. I forgot u can wire parallel like that.

series would be if the pos/neg were each attached to a seperate board with just 1 wire connecting them.

it seems that I was indeed the one higher than I thought. time for bed.
 
pop22

pop22

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