PetFlora
Well-Known Member
This should simplify a DIY led project http://makersled.com/?p=396
DIY Modular LED-Light
- Thread starter guod
- Start date
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Art !
That is pure art..
That is pure art..
guod
Well-Known Member
the other one
did some trimming to for a nice Halloween Deco.
and here a two of our 20 nightmare buds we have to inhale
lets hope that they are not fully loaded...
fresh weight 226gr w/o deco....and dont under estimated the stem inside
[video=youtube;riA0NIsDgjw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riA0NIsDgjw[/video]
did some trimming to for a nice Halloween Deco.
and here a two of our 20 nightmare buds we have to inhale
lets hope that they are not fully loaded...
fresh weight 226gr w/o deco....and dont under estimated the stem inside
[video=youtube;riA0NIsDgjw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=riA0NIsDgjw[/video]
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Those panels kick ass really...
Brother Guod...
Since cost isn't an issue such as high-quality...
I saw some European fans,the other day at a friends grow...
They run at 220-240 Volts AC (sure there is 110-120 for States) ,almost totally silent
(guess they have quality ball-bearings on axles,also..German quality,you see..)
Frame is made aluminium cast ,as rotor also...Motor seems really a work-horse...
A friend bought some for 25€ each...
Really high quality robust fans....
With a single mains cable you can run fan and led drivers,at same time ..
( some less power losses converting mains voltage to DC ,so to operate fan,extra resistances/heat...)
Thing is ..(I feel that is one really " tough" con...)
..That these fans can potentially be dangerous finger choppin' devices...
We are talking about a metal rotor,turning some thousand rounds per min ,driven by a strong motor...
No fingers there ,by accident...
...
Plastic 12 V ones ,are totally safe...
They just scare you a bit ,if accidently your finger(s) got in the way...
Often some wings of rotor brake...
But fingers in the way of these ? ...No-no..
They need, those metallic protective covers/grills for fans,for sure....
But they offer mean power ,robust design ,low noise and no need for 12 V DC...
Just an idea...
(In case you haven't thought about it ,already....)
Edit:
They were of this brand : http://www.ebmpapst.com/de/products/compact-fans/axial-compact-fans/axial_compact_fans.php?pID=
Brother Guod...
Since cost isn't an issue such as high-quality...
I saw some European fans,the other day at a friends grow...
They run at 220-240 Volts AC (sure there is 110-120 for States) ,almost totally silent
(guess they have quality ball-bearings on axles,also..German quality,you see..)
Frame is made aluminium cast ,as rotor also...Motor seems really a work-horse...
A friend bought some for 25€ each...
Really high quality robust fans....
With a single mains cable you can run fan and led drivers,at same time ..
( some less power losses converting mains voltage to DC ,so to operate fan,extra resistances/heat...)
Thing is ..(I feel that is one really " tough" con...)
..That these fans can potentially be dangerous finger choppin' devices...
We are talking about a metal rotor,turning some thousand rounds per min ,driven by a strong motor...
No fingers there ,by accident...
...
Plastic 12 V ones ,are totally safe...
They just scare you a bit ,if accidently your finger(s) got in the way...
Often some wings of rotor brake...
But fingers in the way of these ? ...No-no..
They need, those metallic protective covers/grills for fans,for sure....
But they offer mean power ,robust design ,low noise and no need for 12 V DC...
Just an idea...
(In case you haven't thought about it ,already....)
Edit:
They were of this brand : http://www.ebmpapst.com/de/products/compact-fans/axial-compact-fans/axial_compact_fans.php?pID=
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Thats a very good yield...
A bit fluffy ? maybe....
But who really cares about that,if they are so frosty like those purplish wonderbuds ,of yours ? !!!
( I prefer "frost" rather than "bulk",at least....)
I guess they have also great smell and smoke/vapor taste...Hmmmm....
No..Not bad at all...On the contrary...
Good job.Really good job...
Once more proved that leds kick @$$ !!!
A bit fluffy ? maybe....
But who really cares about that,if they are so frosty like those purplish wonderbuds ,of yours ? !!!
( I prefer "frost" rather than "bulk",at least....)
I guess they have also great smell and smoke/vapor taste...Hmmmm....
No..Not bad at all...On the contrary...
Good job.Really good job...
Once more proved that leds kick @$$ !!!
guod
Well-Known Member
The home of the Afgan-Lady ("controlled environment" with a smile)
aera 50x70, height 90 cm inside
build material
plywood, alu, nuts&bolts, paint...
thermoisolation on all walls
fully detachable. the base-unit works for most parts as a case
growbox with open door
door locks and fully closed
behind
schematik Airflow (hidden in-outlet for real darkness)
for cloning & seeds
Hell-Emitters(Mäanderstyle) for root-Stimulation; adjustable Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm
suspension bolts for the light
Power-unit, fits under the grow box
front:
from left: timer, temp*, Airflow. (*not in place at the moment)
back:
connecter for Light, fans, heat and more
aera 50x70, height 90 cm inside
build material
plywood, alu, nuts&bolts, paint...
thermoisolation on all walls
fully detachable. the base-unit works for most parts as a case
growbox with open door
door locks and fully closed
behind
schematik Airflow (hidden in-outlet for real darkness)
for cloning & seeds
Hell-Emitters(Mäanderstyle) for root-Stimulation; adjustable Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm
suspension bolts for the light
Power-unit, fits under the grow box
front:
from left: timer, temp*, Airflow. (*not in place at the moment)
back:
connecter for Light, fans, heat and more
......Can't rep you again
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
WOW!
AWESOME !!!
You're a perfectionist ..
( .....Going Inox sheet and PU foam Insulation ? ..He-he....I'm sure that has gone through your mind,already...
By the first looks I've already imagined how it would look ,made " lab style "... )
I'm speechless....
Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm ?
880nm to 920 nm ?
NIR for roots ?
Oh...Something tells me it may do wonders ...
Irradiation Output power ?
AWESOME !!!
You're a perfectionist ..
( .....Going Inox sheet and PU foam Insulation ? ..He-he....I'm sure that has gone through your mind,already...
By the first looks I've already imagined how it would look ,made " lab style "... )
I'm speechless....
Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm ?
880nm to 920 nm ?
NIR for roots ?
Oh...Something tells me it may do wonders ...
Irradiation Output power ?
IlovePlants
Well-Known Member
It is infrared, near infrared is in the 700's. Heat stimulates growth during the vegetative stages. I'm assuming it's a young plant/veg cabinet. Sweet design guod!
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Yeah,I agree...
But generally Infra red is above 700 nm to more than 10.000 nm (10 μm ) ...
So ,I guess it would've been very helpful ,for us led growers , to have a common-agreed-to-be " set reference " .
...
i.e. Somethin' like :
Reds :620-640 nm or "ChB Reds"
Deep reds : 650-680 nm or "ChA / Pfr Reds"
Far reds : 680-750 nm or " Pr Reds"
Near Infra reds :750 -1000 nm or " RootFormation NIR "
(Deep) Infra reds : > 1000 nm or just "heat "...
Hosebomber
Active Member
The infrared part of the electromagnetic spectrum covers the range from roughly 300 GHz (1 mm) to 400 THz (750 nm). It can be divided into three parts:[SUP][3][/SUP]
- Far-infrared, from 300 GHz (1 mm) to 30 THz (10 μm). The lower part of this range may also be called microwaves. This radiation is typically absorbed by so-called rotational modes in gas-phase molecules, by molecular motions in liquids, and by phonons in solids. The water in Earth's atmosphere absorbs so strongly in this range that it renders the atmosphere in effect opaque. However, there are certain wavelength ranges ("windows") within the opaque range that allow partial transmission, and can be used for astronomy. The wavelength range from approximately 200 μm up to a few mm is often referred to as "sub-millimeter" in astronomy, reserving far infrared for wavelengths below 200 μm.
- Mid-infrared, from 30 to 120 THz (10 to 2.5 μm). Hot objects (black-body radiators) can radiate strongly in this range, and human skin at normal body temperature radiates strongly at the lower end of this region. This radiation is absorbed by molecular vibrations, where the different atoms in a molecule vibrate around their equilibrium positions. This range is sometimes called the fingerprint region, since the mid-infrared absorption spectrum of a compound is very specific for that compound.
- Near-infrared, from 120 to 400 THz (2,500 to 750 nm). Physical processes that are relevant for this range are similar to those for visible light. The highest frequences in this region can be detected directly by some types of photographic film, and by many types of solid state image sensors for infrared photography and videography.
guod
Well-Known Member
THX, all
...and golden knobs in the next version
here is the Hightec i use cheapo against INOX, but not really
high flexible polystyrene with an alu-Layer on one side
normally used for wooden floor isolation
SELITAC
http://www.selit.com/en/do-it-yourself/products/impact-sound-insulation.html
Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm ?
880nm to 920 nm ? biased by the Ledrange, sailor?
8800nm to 9200nm !!!
IWIF(Long-wavelength infrared also called the "thermal infrared.")let´s say heat
Irradiation Output power ?
max. 36W enough to drive the Rootzone to 22 - 27°C
-----------------------------------------------------
the box in seed-clone modus
moveable moduls
seperate dimmable CW & RED spectra (Model: Habanero)
and anything between this limts
Grow & Flower Modus
switchable between 30 and 60W, or one solo at 30W
OK.. accepted !__!
.Going Inox sheet and PU foam Insulation ?
...and golden knobs in the next version
here is the Hightec i use cheapo against INOX, but not really
high flexible polystyrene with an alu-Layer on one side
normally used for wooden floor isolation
SELITAC
http://www.selit.com/en/do-it-yourself/products/impact-sound-insulation.html
Peak between 8,8µm - 9.2µm ?
880nm to 920 nm ? biased by the Ledrange, sailor?
8800nm to 9200nm !!!
IWIF(Long-wavelength infrared also called the "thermal infrared.")let´s say heat
Irradiation Output power ?
max. 36W enough to drive the Rootzone to 22 - 27°C
right on all points...especially for the "sweet design"
-----------------------------------------------------
the box in seed-clone modus
moveable moduls
seperate dimmable CW & RED spectra (Model: Habanero)
and anything between this limts
Grow & Flower Modus
switchable between 30 and 60W, or one solo at 30W
stardustsailor
Well-Known Member
Ingenious really...
Habanero ,eh.... ?
This sucker burns ,twice...
Ingoing...Outgoing....(IYKWIM )
..Silly me..(Very tired ,I guess also...)
Yes 8800-9200 nm ( 1μm= 1000nm )
Heating the roots...
22 - 27°C..
..
Nice...
...
Once more...
Great design,Guod.
..
Habanero ,eh.... ?
This sucker burns ,twice...
Ingoing...Outgoing....(IYKWIM )
..Silly me..(Very tired ,I guess also...)
Yes 8800-9200 nm ( 1μm= 1000nm )
Heating the roots...
22 - 27°C..
..
Nice...
...
Once more...
Great design,Guod.
..
guod
Well-Known Member
A good and easy read over Plant-Spectrum and Human-Vision
..
...
4.3.1.1 Blue and Red (670 nm) LEDs
Blue and red colors are the best blend for plants and vegetables. This composition
allows acquiring an excellent plant growth in horticulture field.
According to the most recent researches, the combination roughly of 23% blue color
and 77% red color provide good results for an optimum plant growth. The spectrum
obtained presents two peaks around 450 nm (blue zone) and 670 nm (red zone), as
shown in Figure 4.2.
..
4.3.1.3 Red (670 nm) and Cool White LEDs
Some studies have demonstrated that the combination between red and cool white
generate a satisfactory growth for plants. Nevertheless, this combination is not better
than the combination of red and blue color. Blue and red colors in plants are capable of
providing notable properties to augment and improve its growth and development.
The percentage to acquire a correct lighting in horticulture field is 84% Red + 16% Cool
White. This combination is shown in Figure 4.9:
..
4.3.2.2 Red, Cool White, and Blue LEDs
These colors have been combined to obtain an acceptable lighting for general lighting.
The percentage of this mixture is 35% Red + 50% Cool White + 15% Blue. Adding a
large amount of cool white is a good choice, because a satisfactory light can be
acquired. Nevertheless, colors such as blue or red are necessaries to procure this
adequate lighting, as shown in Figure 4.12:
..
more here
http://e-archivo.uc3m.es/bitstream/10016/15383/2/Emilio Giron Gonzalez_Final Project 2012_Aalto University_LE.pdf
..
...
4.3.1.1 Blue and Red (670 nm) LEDs
Blue and red colors are the best blend for plants and vegetables. This composition
allows acquiring an excellent plant growth in horticulture field.
According to the most recent researches, the combination roughly of 23% blue color
and 77% red color provide good results for an optimum plant growth. The spectrum
obtained presents two peaks around 450 nm (blue zone) and 670 nm (red zone), as
shown in Figure 4.2.
..
4.3.1.3 Red (670 nm) and Cool White LEDs
Some studies have demonstrated that the combination between red and cool white
generate a satisfactory growth for plants. Nevertheless, this combination is not better
than the combination of red and blue color. Blue and red colors in plants are capable of
providing notable properties to augment and improve its growth and development.
The percentage to acquire a correct lighting in horticulture field is 84% Red + 16% Cool
White. This combination is shown in Figure 4.9:
..
4.3.2.2 Red, Cool White, and Blue LEDs
These colors have been combined to obtain an acceptable lighting for general lighting.
The percentage of this mixture is 35% Red + 50% Cool White + 15% Blue. Adding a
large amount of cool white is a good choice, because a satisfactory light can be
acquired. Nevertheless, colors such as blue or red are necessaries to procure this
adequate lighting, as shown in Figure 4.12:
..
more here
http://e-archivo.uc3m.es/bitstream/10016/15383/2/Emilio Giron Gonzalez_Final Project 2012_Aalto University_LE.pdf
guod
Well-Known Member
the other one
the roots of the afgan-lady
must be the bad 660nm... afaik...
-------------------------
merkaba on an optical bank(Lens: Centrum110° ; 60° for the rest)
estimated colortemp. straight: 2200K; 2800@ 45°
in fokus(best i got
)
spectrum anyone, see the scattering light
the mixing starts
short before optimum
in reverse for a sharper view
not bad for a multipointsource, i think
and now back to the discussion over the real right spectrum mix
the roots of the afgan-lady
must be the bad 660nm... afaik...
-------------------------
merkaba on an optical bank(Lens: Centrum110° ; 60° for the rest)
estimated colortemp. straight: 2200K; 2800@ 45°
in fokus(best i got
)
spectrum anyone, see the scattering light
the mixing starts
short before optimum
in reverse for a sharper view
not bad for a multipointsource, i think
and now back to the discussion over the real right spectrum mix
FranJan
Well-Known Member
Amen Brother and thanks for the pdf on your previous post. For some reason I can't "like" it itmust be the bad 660nm... afaik...
.SnotBoogie
Well-Known Member
Wow, very slick setup. Great to see DIY LED getting some mileage!