Discuss the advantages of "Vert"

Discussion in 'Vertical Growing' started by Chip Green, Sep 24, 2017.


    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member

    That's the kind of bulb the catalog labeled BU for base up too.

    Didn't you say you had an information paper?

    I am sorry if that v means vertical. I did research. Seems there is some conflicting info on both things I said.

    None of the bulbs I have used are marked that way so I have not seen a bulb stamp like that in person.

    Is the U for universal and is that open or closed fixture?

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    I forget what the U meant, it wasn't related to orientation.

    Every lamp has a code. In the case of Philips you Google the coffee and white paper and it usually comes up.

    This particular lamp is an 860W CDM. It must run in a ballast at less than 140Hz (or close), so in practical terms that means magnetic. It's rated for 860W on 208V, but also runs fine at 1000W on 240V or 277V. Many of the older magnetic ballasts had internal wiring that could be switched so the unit would run on any of the above, or 120V. The 860W option was how Philips could call it an 'energy saver' lamp, lol

    4K is the Kelvin temperature; in use they actually were all over the place. They might average 4000K, but some looked blue, others green- and one ran with a very clear purple tinge lol

    It's an open rated lamp. It has an inner quartz jacket wrapped in wire. I had the pit pop in a few on initial startup and it was very obvious why they went to such trouble to contain it.

    They were rated to last a couple years. They were not efficient, that's due to the magnetic ballast. I did scrounge a couple of low frequency square wave digital ballasts and they ran brighter on them- but more green.

    They made awesome frosty buds but fluffy due to all the infrared they put out.

    They were a good way to step up from HPS while running vertical and saving up for LED.

    If I had it to do over, I'd run 315W CMH; same tech, square wave ballast maximises efficiency, lower watts means I can spread them out for better light distribution.
    MichiganMedGrower likes this.

    MichiganMedGrower Well-Known Member

    I only asked what the u meant.

    And for anything else that showed the v.

    You keep talking of stepping up from hps but first chose a less efficient bulb.

    And you had to mention led again.

    Well you keep bringing it up so here is some honest info. I have tested these lamps for a about a year in the perpetual Grow. So about 50 plants have been harvested and 3 rounds of 3 clones a few ways.

    According to everyone who shares them. Our flowers are more potent under the 600w Hortilux hps than the Phillips 315 3100k. And I get a 30% bonus in yield over the cmh too.

    They do look prettier under the more natural light. The first plant I moved from under the hps across the room to the cmh really seemed to pop.

    But it's all hype. 315 watts is a limiting factor.
    OneHitDone likes this.

    gr865 Well-Known Member

    Is the "U" for Universal orientation?

    Dave455 Well-Known Member

    Isn't regular scrog easier ?

    ttystikk Well-Known Member

    Not in the case of the lamp I'm using as an example.

    There are universal orientation lamps though.
    gr865 likes this.

    Flowki Well-Known Member

    Easier perhaps but with a single light source the spread intensity over scrogs mid to outer canopy area degrades. A stadium canopy setup over the same area (when done right) will keep more of the foliage in range, slightly increase foliage amount and will in turn out do scrog by 10%+ while not that much harder to do. Next step up from that is ofc vert.

    If you have multiple low powered light source to spread the intensity then the above is kinda moot, unless you have more roof than floor space.
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2017

    pinner420 Well-Known Member


    ttystikk Well-Known Member

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