Crickets and Cicada Seeds

YardG

Well-Known Member
Make of this what you will, but a few months ago there was a guy on "The Curious About Cannabis" podcast who was talking about Cannabis genetics, and he mentioned that genetically speaking there are male plants, and female/hermaphrodite plants. Unless you forgot dosing them with the scary chemical that can make male plants throw female flowers, I'd guess maybe the male plants were herm plants that were consistently throwing male flowers, which is weird but I suppose must happen?
 

higher self

Well-Known Member
Make of this what you will, but a few months ago there was a guy on "The Curious About Cannabis" podcast who was talking about Cannabis genetics, and he mentioned that genetically speaking there are male plants, and female/hermaphrodite plants. Unless you forgot dosing them with the scary chemical that can make male plants throw female flowers, I'd guess maybe the male plants were herm plants that were consistently throwing male flowers, which is weird but I suppose must happen?
Its a herm male imo tho I've never re vegged a male before. You can reverse males with Florel growth regulator, wouldn't say its scary but you def can't smoke plant after use just like when using silver. I know the breeder at 707 Seeds said he reversed his LBL male & got the flowers produced tested.
 

quiescent

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't judge the intersex traits on plants that weren't sexually mature at time of flowering. They're still not producing alternating nodes and you've had light schedule issues. Heck of a stress test but tbh most genetics wouldn't be the happiest in this situation.

Plants need to acclimate to every aspect of your environment before you are getting an accurate representation of them. A seed plant will never give you a replicatable result once you're dealing with it's clone. How are you judging what's a keeper in a future run where it doesn't have a tap root and it's brothers and sisters are expressing themselves fully as well?

From personal experience; grow a tomato or pepper seed that came from someone in the highland desert of California, in the Midwest. The first year wasn't the best at all. My plants were near an oak tree that had a bacterial or fungal issue causing dead spots on my peppers, tomatoes unaffected. I do container gardens for peppers/tomatoes and plant everything else in the ground. I know for a fact the gentleman I received the seeds from plants in ground, has them on drippers and under a shade cloth. They get none of these comforts at my place.

These seeds weren't ready for a change comparable to going from Afghanistan to Germany. The next year was pretty good, not fully adapted yet. My 3rd year they seemed ready for whatever challenges presented themselves. No issues from the tree's affliction at all. The tomatoes were all very drought tolerant compared to year 1 as well.

This is centuries old common knowledge that this community refuses to adapt to cannabis. The onus is placed on the breeder and/or the genetics when someone has an issue. They're half right, it is the genetics causing the issue but no breeder went back in time and affected how this plant evolved.

Think about how cannabis evolved. The seed is dropped from the flower in fall/winter. It goes through a natural stratification process outside of the tropics, laying dormant for months. Once it's warmed up and there's a good rain or two the seed sprouts. This is very early in the season, outside of the tropics these plants will be thinned out by frosts/freezes, new seedlings will show themselves throughout the spring. The seedlings that survive are most adapted to the environment. Doesn't matter if it was the first plant up in March that went through 7 freezes that killed 95% of its kin or the one who stayed dormant until early May.

So these plants have from May 1st to July 20th to further adapt to where they are, what their food source is, what the extremes of weather are, etc. That's 12 weeks of growth under real sun with naturally lengthening and shortening daylight hours. These plants are all sexually mature at this point, again, outside of the tropics. They know there's a great chance that one of their brothers nearby are going to pollinate them to restart the cycle. If no pollen comes some plants will try to produce their own pollen. Keep in mind these are sexually mature plants adapted to their environment that are just trying to ensure their genetic proliferation.

Let's take all of the stressors into account that an indoor plant is placed under, even with an experienced and capable gardener steering their life cycle.

defined root space
soil richness/feed strength
organic vs chelated minerals
fixed lighting schedule
lighting spectrum
constant air movement
humidity
temperature
root medium moisture content
water quality
pest, mold and disease pressures

So you've got a lot of variables there, all of them could be executed perfectly by the end grower but if they aren't adapted to that environment they aren't going to perform.

That's on top of the plant being asked to complete its life cycle on a timeline that doesn't match the thousands of years of evolution it had the benefit of receiving.

Take all of that into account and add in your issues with the lighting schedule and think about whether there's really an issue with the genetic material.

I've been trying to ingrain this information into people for years. I'm not alone. Most seed makers would tell you the same, the ones that don't are clueless. They knew in the 80s and 90s that indoor seed plants are for getting clones from and the next step is throwing them in the trash, not into flower.

Yall can do whatever you please in your gardens but there's a right, not better or improved, way to do this.

I'm trying to improve the results everyone has by harping on this. It doesn't help that senior members of the community refuse to adapt their methods. Setting bad examples for newer growers and then arguing the ill-conceived merits of their bumbling foolishness.

You don't have time to grow out two plants just to get one?

You want to grow 2 liter bottle baseball bats to impress people with your ability to grow plants in coco getting pumped with salts?

Don't post about balls showing up on OG seed plants at 3 weeks of flower and say you're just trying to inform the community. You wipe your ass wrong and get shit on your balls is it the brand of toilet paper that got shit on your balls?
 

lambchopedd

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't judge the intersex traits on plants that weren't sexually mature at time of flowering. They're still not producing alternating nodes and you've had light schedule issues. Heck of a stress test but tbh most genetics wouldn't be the happiest in this situation.
You’re poetic with words. Nonetheless, you have some good information to share, or at least information in general, and I appreciate that.

First thing first, I post on online forums whenever I remember I have this online persona; so the dates aren’t accurate. Checking my notes, the youngest C25 was 38 days when I switched to flower (June 3rd), and I did so because it/they had preflowers in veg…. And filtered the rest in from there, accordingly. If you recommend a longer veg time, I’m all ears! But for the sake of this conversation, lets just say 38+ days in my case.

Second, my whole purpose of this is to sift through my plants, reveg the “winners”, grow out the clones a couple runs, THEN consider filial breeding — my goal is not to make seeds yet. Hence the last question on my post & previous post about the females.

i’ve only heard one breeder (Nspecta, on the Breeders Syndicate podcast) pledge the idea of throwing out seed-plants and only working with clones. You would be the second to suggest this.

Third, the nodes were alternating before I chopped them down to reveg. I don’t trim the bottoms. What you’re looking at is the lowest sac clusters.

And I’m not criticizing the breeder. I came here with questions and pictures, not to be disingenuous.

Fair point on the stressful situations they underwent; hence why I resorted to revegging. But then the question still stands about males that produce pistils. Are the genetics still considered “stable” or not (?) Would you continue forward with the project or compost everything? Or are you suggesting that because of the indoor (& fast-tracked) conditions I put them through, they’re not viable?

And likewise, the point is to grow two plants to just get one.

I’m open to any advice.
 
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YardG

Well-Known Member
Is "seed plant" a term of art in the nursery business? A quick search makes it look like botanists use it differently (i.e. any plant that propagates via seed, as opposed to a spore plant).
 

Foxseeds

Well-Known Member
If the male herms it’s genotype is intersex, some populations of landrace only have intersex males. Weed plants are not really dioecious, a lot are Polygamo - dioecious. Most plants can herm phenotypically with autosomal genes. I’d kill any male that herms on me phenotypically.

Also on the topic of male herms… Most polyploid hybrid “males” have extra set of X chromosomes XXY. Or have a extra odd set of 5 2n=25/35 and may be sterile because they cant divide properly.

For reading on the subject google..
Sengbusch Classification system paper, or Punnett Square Calculator if you grow a cookies strain.

according to Faux 2014 the autosomal genes associated with sex determination in monoecious hemp (XX chromosomes but expressing both male and female sex) are tightly linked to genes associated with light sensitivity.

also a great icmag post from years back Nspecta and skunkman Sam posted great info there. (Breeding with Hermaphrodite Males...what's your experience)
 
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quiescent

Well-Known Member
You’re poetic with words. Nonetheless, you have some good information to share, or at least information in general, and I appreciate that.

First thing first, I post on online forums whenever I remember I have this online persona; so the dates aren’t accurate. Checking my notes, the youngest C25 was 38 days when I switched to flower, and I did so because it/they had preflowers in veg…. And filtered the rest in from there, accordingly. If you recommend a longer veg time, I’m all ears! But for the sake of this conversation, lets just say 38+ days in my case.

Showing preflowers isn't quite mature enough. The nodes should be alternating and you should only take cuts once the entire clone has alternating nodes from top to bottom. No part of it should be symmetrical. This takes me 8-10 weeks with most strains.

Second, my whole purpose of this is to sift through my plants, reveg the “winners”, grow out the clones a couple runs, THEN consider filial breeding — my goal is not to make seeds yet. Hence the last question on my post & previous post about the females.

i’ve only heard one breeder (Nspecta, on the Breeders Syndicate podcast) pledge the idea of throwing out seed-plants and only working with clones. You would be the second to suggest this.

I had a VHS tape from the 90s when I started growing. It outlined how to start from seed to harvest. Their method included taking clones from the seed plants once they were mature, flowering those and keeping the seed plants as a mom or an extra clone.

There might not be many breeders that have posted/talked publicly about it but there's a number of people I can recall speaking on the subject.

If you listened to the Caleb interview you might recall that both Matt and Notsodog were in agreement on the issue, this was nothing new to them.

The breeder from boneyard genetics, Mr. Toad, would tell you the same thing.

Adam Dunn has spoken on this with several guests as well. I can't remember whom he was speaking with but there have been many discussions about having mature, adapted plants before flowering and it's always the clone that hits flower in his instructional.

Ask a seasoned grower and they'll probably tell you they do this because it's how they were told to do it or they figured out it was necessary.

Almost every podcast has had someone talking about the newer growers in places like Oklahoma growing seed plants in 50 light rooms and having it go to seed or that it turns into distillate for one reason or another. The reason it went to seed is obvious to me.


Third, the nodes were alternating before I chopped them down to reveg. I don’t trim the bottoms. What you’re looking at is the lowest sac clusters.

As detailed above the whole plant needs to be mature.

And I’m not criticizing the breeder. I came here with questions and pictures, not to be disingenuous.

I was speaking in general about people, not necessarily you.

Fair point on the stressful situations they underwent; hence why I resorted to revegging. But then the question still stands about males that produce pistils. Are the genetics still considered “stable” or not (?) Would you continue forward with the project or compost everything? Or are you suggesting that because of the indoor (& fast-tracked) conditions I put them through, they’re not viable?

I'd say they're still viable to potentially use as a parent, assuming they reveg and don't show intersex traits on the next run. It's useful to stress test plants but I would say test individual stressors on a specific plant, not stack them all up on the same plant. I wouldn't expect many plants to come through the other side like roses.

I have a higher tolerance for bullshit plants than others so take that with a grain of salt. If the progeny isn't up to snuff or produces intersex plants its gonna suck but if you pop them and they're magical you'll be glad you took a chance. I guess it really depends on your seed stock and what your plans are as to whether you should move on other not.


And likewise, the point is to grow two plants to just get one.

I’m open to any advice.
I'm not right about everything I've posted. I've been willing to die on hills I would retreat from today. Compost teas being better than just top dressing for example. The main arguments against them not really applying to my situation but surely not right for everyone as I've postured in the past.

This is something I'm putting out there with supreme confidence that it's not an opinion on minutiae but a fact that has a measurable impact. There are easily demonstrable changes of outcomes that you will experience with this method.

You won't get 95% of the intersex issues.

Your plants will not stretch endlessly and have better structure.

Smells and flavors will be enhanced.

Your flower cycle will be 1-2 weeks faster in most cases.

You'll be more familiar with the plants before you even flower them, possibly eliminating undesirable plants that would waste your time or don't fit your selection criteria.

There is already the knowledge that issues you have on a seed plant run will likely not recur with it's clone. Why leave the door open for failure? Impatience is inexcusable. Not having the space is almost valid, lots of inefficient use of space out there. Pop less seeds or don't worry about plant counts.

There's so much hidden knowledge combined with an abundance of garbage about this plant. The online community is small and the number of people that are inclined to spread hard-learned methods are smaller. The number of people willing to admit they could do better and improve are few and far between.

Lots of folks have shit excuses for their follies and why they'll keep making them in spite of the solution being presented to them. I appreciate your ambition to improve.
 

OtisCampbell

Well-Known Member
I’m curious what folks think the differences will be between Light of Venus, Bubbleghan and Ghandaddy will be? I listened to the Potcast interview but I still don’t have a solid idea of what the differences might be between them.. I would weigh tooty-fruity grape terps more than being the ultimate in potency.
 
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Coldnasty

Well-Known Member
So here’s another update on my Citrus 25 project:

After discovering the intersex plants I noticed a lot of the girls were seeded. No big deal, again I’ll accept responsibility; But that crop is gone. Went though all 16, noting whatever visible traits, smells, stemrubs, etc. The main phenotypes are, from least to most common: SWEET orange, paint thinner/chemicals, to Chemical-orange which is certainly most common. Three were far enough away from the stray pollen that they look fine; ironically, each is one of the three phenotypes. Ignoring those three, I think I kept four… two based on high yield, one sweet orange IIRC, and one with the absolute grossest chemical anthrax mustard gas smells…. The type of shit Saddam fumigated Kurdish kids with
(Sorry is that too dark?)

However many weeks ago I lost power a couple times due to storms. One time for 24hrs, so the dehumidifiers were of course off. All the girls got through it. The males however completely went to shit. They were so moldy that it looked like they were covered in cobwebs. It goes without saying, I culled most of them… keeping 4-5 for reveg; based solely on flower-clusters size &/or stemrubs. I say all that to show this-

Look at the males after like a week I think…

View attachment 4951909View attachment 4951910View attachment 4951911View attachment 4951912View attachment 4951913

Question: Would you use males that throw pistils (during reveg) for f2s?
What the hell did you do to those poor plants? Lol
 

Cutkeeper

Well-Known Member
A3BB6AF7-21F7-4DD4-A3B5-F2A04EB34D3A.jpegAlmost too embarrassed to share this. Bubbleghan 6 females. They got hammered by thrips but I hit them with minute pirate bugs and green lacewing larvae. Everything nearby is fine so I’m not sure how I was able to contain that…Going to dust a couple with mothers milk and collect pollen from the males
 
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