Nothing doing until you get 3.4 million x 8 lumen LEDs over them, then they'll turn like totally dank, man.
heh, yep, it kinda stickies itself.
The readership numbers on this thread are mad. I had it closed for a week or so and the avg readership per day now exceeds what it was when I had to take a break. Something like 420/day, nutty for a little cannabis forum.
Well, they were gonna hand me a few until I insisted that they were cast in pure lead.
'Lung infections from mouldy pot' is a wives' tale. While mouldy buds are unpleasant to smoke from beginning to end, not many mould spores are going to survive being hit with a Bic. I also don't think powdery mildew spores would survive long in a lung, even if somehow you managed to smoke the stuff without setting it alight.
Yeah, why? If you could put the ballast outside the room, that would be heat you didn't have to depend on the exhaust blower to remove.
2"? is that right? What's a 2" fan supposed to boost?
Tell me about this light, does it have an inlet duct flange and a glass sheet over the lamp tube? Hope so. It'd be a lot better for temp control if it acted like a cooltube.
Use a 40cm circ fan here too, if you can.
Can you return all this stuff? It's a bunch of organics and will be a major pain in the ass because you can't use H2O2 with them. Check what poor platypusman has recently been through with them. With organics, you are relying on competing microbial activity to control pathogens- and it doesn't always work... and it's kinda hard to tell when it is.
Combo meters are not the best choice. The pH electrode only will last 2 years and when it needs replacement, if it is not user replaceable, you will replace the entire meter or send the unit in for service. You already have a pH meter, but you need an EC/TDS meter for nutes before you can start growing. Hanna pen meters are not renowned for reliability, but their more expensive ones can last a while. The most reliable TDS meter I've ever seen is the Bluelab Truncheon. Avoid Chinese copies as found on Ebay.
Doesn't matter. Warm white fluoros grow plants just as slowly as cool whites. vegging with fluoros is fine as long as you don't need a bunch of cuttings every 2 weeks.
The holes on the bottom allow in water when the tray floods, to the same depth as the tray is flooded. Same thing happened to the Titanic.
The trays should flood to about 100-120mm deep. If using RW cubes in pots of pellets, the cubes should be 1/2" above the flood level. Diverted from what?
Their cube shape with flat bottom sits well on a heat mat, but most importantly, RW is not made of organic matter which can support mould when damp. Jiffy pots & rapid rooters are made from a compressed peat material. It can break down and fragment when exposed to H2O2. The bits can get loose in a recirculating hydro system and potentially foul pumps.
Option 'B'.
Nope, just a plain ol' CFL for rare instances when I need to have some work light when the HPS jugs are off. It's always bad to interrupt the flowering plants' night cycle, so that CFL is only used when the timer shuts off the HPS jugs and I am still working, draining/refilling tanks or something.
I agree with you that 4/sf might be a problem with naked lamps. Cooltubes will allow you to drop a 400 to 150mm from the nearest leaves; the closer you can get the light to the plants, the greater the foliar penetration. With cooltubes, I bet you can get away with 4/sf.
With cooltubes, yes. Without them, you may want to hold it to 24 plants and experiment your way upward.
Glad I can be helpful.
The roots will just busy themselves filling the medium.
yep, just make sure to nest the cube in the pellets only after there's a good spray of roots out of the bottom of the cubes and assure that they are 1/2" above the flood line.
The bigger the better, to a point. Bigger is always better to the hydro shop guy, tho.
) thats if you dont mind. thanks again jeff
Thanks Al for clearing a few things for me. I am currently growing in soil with the organics. I was wrong on some of the fans in my grow room. I have a fan on the bottom that is a 4" Inline Fan rated at 80 CFM pushing fresh air in from outside. The fan I have for heat exhaust is the GrowBright 4" Inline fan uses that pushes 170 cfm of air. It is actually connected to the 400W with a flange as well as one just hanging above.I'ts dragging the hot air out of the room. The light is a 400 Watt FLORALUX ballast housing connected to the reflector all in one unit.'Lung infections from mouldy pot' is a wives' tale. While mouldy buds are unpleasant to smoke from beginning to end, not many mould spores are going to survive being hit with a Bic. I also don't think powdery mildew spores would survive long in a lung, even if somehow you managed to smoke the stuff without setting it alight.
Yeah, why? If you could put the ballast outside the room, that would be heat you didn't have to depend on the exhaust blower to remove.
2"? is that right? What's a 2" fan supposed to boost?
Tell me about this light, does it have an inlet duct flange and a glass sheet over the lamp tube? Hope so. It'd be a lot better for temp control if it acted like a cooltube.
Ventilation should be organised like this:
Circ fans should be ordinary 40cm (15-16") oscillating units.
Use a 40cm circ fan here too, if you can.
Can you return all this stuff? It's a bunch of organics and will be a major pain in the ass because you can't use H2O2 with them. Check what poor platypusman has recently been through with them. With organics, you are relying on competing microbial activity to control pathogens- and it doesn't always work... and it's kinda hard to tell when it is.
'Sweet' is a sugar sauce and should not be used in any hydro op.
I see 3 bloom additives in your list. 'More' is not 'better' in growing plants. If you use any bloom additive at all, use ONE- and it should contain P & K and nothing else.
'Organic' doesn't mean 'better' or even 'good.' Organic molecules are all constructed from inorganic molecules. Organic fertilisers have to break down into inorganic elements before the plant can use them.
Organic growing is a good technique for soil but not hydroponics. With inorganic nutes & H2O2, you will have a successful grow the first time and the op will be much easier to maintain as you're only growing ONE organism- cannabis plants.
Replace this list of stuff with a good quality 2-part standard hydroponic nutrient from a well known maker like AN, GH, Canna, a bloom additive like Canna's PK-13-14 (used for 1 week in wk 6 of flowering ONLY) and H2O2 50% grade, to be used at 1ml/l of nutes every 3-4 days.
Combo meters are not the best choice. The pH electrode only will last 2 years and when it needs replacement, if it is not user replaceable, you will replace the entire meter or send the unit in for service. You already have a pH meter, but you need an EC/TDS meter for nutes before you can start growing. Hanna pen meters are not renowned for reliability, but their more expensive ones can last a while. The most reliable TDS meter I've ever seen is the Bluelab Truncheon. Avoid Chinese copies as found on Ebay.
I think your ventilation system needs a rethink. I can't see less than a 150mm main exhaust blower being needed in any case. If you're going to use a carbon filter, you'll need a centrifugal exhaust blower to push air into it. Axial fans won't work well into an obstructive load like a carbon filter You won't get anywhere near an axial fan's CFM rating if it is pushing air into a filter.
Doesn't matter. Warm white fluoros grow plants just as slowly as cool whites. vegging with fluoros is fine as long as you don't need a bunch of cuttings every 2 weeks.
