AC Infinity Controller 67 users?

lakesidegrower

Well-Known Member
If you can calibrate the readings it's pretty easy to get a 100% humidity level to test your sensor. Put some salt in a bag and moisten it just short of a slurry. Then seal it up.
That’s interesting, never heard of that. So basically putting inkbird and ac sensors in that bag to calibrate to 100%… only issue with that is the inkbird sensor is that plastic rectangle piece with holes, maybe not the best to put that in a salt slurry haha
There is about a 2% difference between the AC sensor and Inkbird's
I did notice the difference, 2% does seems about right - I haven’t changed any of the factory calibration settings, had considered adjusting one or the other by a degree but I kinda like knowing the split. When I think about it all my brain hurts one way or the other lol
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Ri

Right on - those graphs look great man
I wish I had more ‘gentle curves’ lol but I get a spikey chart every time due to oil heater at night a cool air during the day.. I dream about a lung room haha but the controllers keep it within 1.5 degrees on average so I’m super happy with that
Ours will get spiky. The tent is in the boiler room, but the door is kept open and the drywall extends to the rafters and there's a foot or so of open air into the rest of the basement space along the longer wall (about 12'). We haven't gotten to 'cold season' yet and have only had heat on in one zone of the house for a couple days. I would guess that it will raise the temp in the tent to mid 80's for a good part of the day/night.

Tuesday we had the heat on and it triggered the boiler for for about 2.5 hours in the morning and then another hour in the evening. Here's the resulting graph (not ACI controller, but my other wifi/BT unit). You can see the bump in the morning of about 2 or 3 degrees:

IMG_2217.jpg

The ambient temperature in the 'basement level' (3/4 finished basement, but it has its own heat zone) tends to be in the ~65 range during the winter. The utilities room never gets terribly hot and if I find that it's too much, It'll be as easy as putting a box fan in the doorway.

Last night with the adjusted humidity controls, set with a 58% trigger and a 2% transition point maxed me out at 62.0% RH for lights out. I've readjusted that so the trigger is a few percent lower and should max out at 58%:
IMG_2218.PNG
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
That’s interesting, never heard of that. So basically putting inkbird and ac sensors in that bag to calibrate to 100%… only issue with that is the inkbird sensor is that plastic rectangle piece with holes, maybe not the best to put that in a salt slurry haha

I did notice the difference, 2% does seems about right - I haven’t changed any of the factory calibration settings, had considered adjusting one or the other by a degree but I kinda like knowing the split. When I think about it all my brain hurts one way or the other lol
I ended up adjusting my WIFI/BT sensor to closer match the ACI readings. I had originally adjusted it to match a good quality electronic 'weather station' that I trust, then just further tweaked it towards where the ACI was. Good enough for me to triangulate between a few different units. I can never figure which one is more correct for temp or RH. If I'm within a few F or a few %, that's probably good enough.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
That’s interesting, never heard of that. So basically putting inkbird and ac sensors in that bag to calibrate to 100%… only issue with that is the inkbird sensor is that plastic rectangle piece with holes, maybe not the best to put that in a salt slurry haha

I did notice the difference, 2% does seems about right - I haven’t changed any of the factory calibration settings, had considered adjusting one or the other by a degree but I kinda like knowing the split. When I think about it all my brain hurts one way or the other lol
You can wrap the sensor in paper or cloth. There should be no liquid in the salt slurry.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
If you can calibrate the readings it's pretty easy to get a 100% humidity level to test your sensor. Put some salt in a bag and moisten it just short of a slurry. Then seal it up.
Not quite; it will allow calibration to 75% RH, not 100%

Add some table salt to a small container, add enough water to where it looks like wet sand, place in a ziplock with the probe. Wait a few hours or until reading stabilizes; it should read 75%

My Inkbird 608T was off by a whopping 9%, the AC probe was pretty close. Thankfully, its easy to add an offset in the inkbird firmware and now they both read within a percent or two.
 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
Not quite; it will allow calibration to 75% RH, not 100%

Add some table salt to a small container, add enough water to where it looks like wet sand, place in a ziplock with the probe. Wait a few hours or until reading stabilizes; it should read 75%

My Inkbird 608T was off by a whopping 9%, the AC probe was pretty close. Thankfully, its easy to add an offset in the inkbird firmware and now they both read within a percent or two.
I've read a good number of reports from people saying that the AC probe/controllers are surprisingly accurate.
 

Three Berries

Well-Known Member
Not quite; it will allow calibration to 75% RH, not 100%

Add some table salt to a small container, add enough water to where it looks like wet sand, place in a ziplock with the probe. Wait a few hours or until reading stabilizes; it should read 75%

My Inkbird 608T was off by a whopping 9%, the AC probe was pretty close. Thankfully, its easy to add an offset in the inkbird firmware and now they both read within a percent or two.
You are right. Here's what I found using different salts.

Humididty calibration.jpg

And a way with the Boveda packs

 

LeastExpectedGrower

Well-Known Member
I wonder how a bucket of saturated salt would do for maintaining a humidity level?

Good question. The bag of rock salt in the garage weeps water all year long. Just looked it up. Seems like it might work as a dehumidifier but won't release moisture back into the air.
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
Hows this working? Your in a room or a tent in a sealed room or what situation? If you are running sealed you need to think about removing humidity with a dehuey, if your running ac this might work as well. Everytime you're watering your adding water to your air which has to go somewhere in the end.
Say you’re growing in a tent. CO2 is heavier thn air. With this being said and being fact, when humidity gets high would it be better to have the exhaust at top (which its always suppose to be lol) to get RH down and keep CO2 in at the bottom, or is it going to suck all the CO2 out regardless? I just bought an environmental controller, blueprint BDAC-2 w/fuzzy logic and titan reg for my tank. I would imagine the tent isn’t going to be the best seal anyways. I’m going thru a bunch of post today trying to figure out what’s the best method. Have you used CO2 in a tent?
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
Say you’re growing in a tent. CO2 is heavier thn air. With this being said and being fact, when humidity gets high would it be better to have the exhaust at top (which its always suppose to be lol) to get RH down and keep CO2 in at the bottom, or is it going to suck all the CO2 out regardless? I just bought an environmental controller, blueprint BDAC-2 w/fuzzy logic and titan reg for my tank. I would imagine the tent isn’t going to be the best seal anyways. I’m going thru a bunch of post today trying to figure out what’s the best method. Have you used CO2 in a tent?
CO2 is slightly heavier than air, but no enough to worry about; circulation fans take care of that.

Unless your environment is at least quasi-sealed, you'll be wasting an enormous amount of C02 to keep the tent at an elevated level
 

Incredible4Mr2E

Well-Known Member
CO2 is slightly heavier than air, but no enough to worry about; circulation fans take care of that.

Unless your environment is at least quasi-sealed, you'll be wasting an enormous amount of C02 to keep the tent at an elevated level
Is quasi-sealed the same as semi-sealed? Lmfao
I am trying to look on Google for definitions and can’t seem to find exactly what it means. One thing I found says to capture and hold. Others are coming up with legal definitions. It got me thinking about building a 4x4 or bigger room out of 2x4’s and glue all the joints. Sheetrock sides and tops, glue and screwed. Front panel being made of 2x4’s for the frame and plexiglass glued and screwed on it with latches holding it against the main frame box with rubber seals around it. The floor I would just glue and screw plywood or stronger into place. Caulk outside joints and seal inside joints with something safe and not toxic I guess, like gorilla tape. The plexiglass would be so expensive I bet but easy to cover with a blanket or something to stop light. Thing would be sweet and I bet almost airtight. Thing would be worth a million dollars with lumber prices haha.
 

Bagittagit

Active Member
This kind of data is what I like - my only critique would me that it would nice to be able to change the setting to take readings every 10 seconds or so - the data points on the chart go to 1 minute intervals when you look at the Hour view. My fan comes on and runs for less than a minute so even if it gave me info on how long the fan runs each time it’s triggered would be helpful. But this is just super picky lol on the whole I freaking love how the data is displayed, it’s a huuuge help in getting your room on point
It does give you a crazy log which shows how long and when an automation was on or off for. My biggest problem is you can't have automation that change the speed of the fan. Only 2 set points on and off, automations all have to use the same set points.
 

Attachments

1212ham

Well-Known Member
It does give you a crazy log which shows how long and when an automation was on or off for. My biggest problem is you can't have automation that change the speed of the fan. Only 2 set points on and off, automations all have to use the same set points.
I think Automations should be named schedule or something to avoid confusion with Auto Mode.

What set points are you referring to, on, off, auto and cycle or the settings for temp and humidity triggers? The Automation options are Off, On, Auto and Cycle. The fan speed can vary in Auto Mode based on the temp and humidity triggers. I do think there should be an option to set different speeds or temp/humidity triggers at different times.

I haven't used automations yet, I'm running in auto mode using the high temp and humidity triggers, 83F and 60%. An Inkbird set to 78F controls my heater.
 

Billy the Mountain

Well-Known Member
I think Automations should be named schedule or something to avoid confusion with Auto Mode.

What set points are you referring to, on, off, auto and cycle or the settings for temp and humidity triggers? The Automation options are Off, On, Auto and Cycle. The fan speed can vary in Auto Mode based on the temp and humidity triggers. I do think there should be an option to set different speeds or temp/humidity triggers at different times.

I haven't used automations yet, I'm running in auto mode using the high temp and humidity triggers, 83F and 60%. An Inkbird set to 78F controls my heater.
I concur, that's one feature that would be very useful.

I usually use mine in auto mode as well with similar settings. It would be nice to be able to adjust the humidity threshold for night time.

I can achieve the same goal with the schedule setting; using a higher fan speed during darkness to keep humidity in check.
 

1212ham

Well-Known Member
I concur, that's one feature that would be very useful.

I usually use mine in auto mode as well with similar settings. It would be nice to be able to adjust the humidity threshold for night time.

I can achieve the same goal with the schedule setting; using a higher fan speed during darkness to keep humidity in check.
I may have spoken too soon, need to play with this before I say any more about automations.
 
Top