A Guide To Colloidal Silver

Discussion in 'Breeders Paradise' started by EverythingsHazy, Mar 27, 2015.

  1.  
    EverythingsHazy

    EverythingsHazy Well-Known Member

    Did you read the OP? I posted pics of clear CS, and of a treated plant, in the OP. Amber works fine, but clear works as well, and has smaller particles.

    The plant in the OP was actually treated with amber CS, just to see if it would work, and it does, but I wouldn't aim for that. It isn't necessary to let it run so long that it turns amber or grey. It works perfectly, when it's clear, and doesn't have large particles, so there should be less buildup on the plant's surfaces, and more buildup within the plant's tissues. The only reason it was amber, is because I hadn't added an air stone to my generator, when that batch was made, and the particles agglomerated more than they do when the water is kept moving with the bubbles.

    So far, pretty much everyone who has followed my guide, has had great success.

    That means your particles are larger than they would be in a clear suspension. It very well might work just fine for your plant reversal purposes, but you didn't have to leave it so long. Were you not using an air stone, or not cleaning your electrodes often?
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2018
  2.  
    whitebb2727

    whitebb2727 Well-Known Member



    Excuuuuse me. I'm a pot smoker and forget stuff.


    With human you want very little silver. It will turn your skin colors. With plants you want to inhibit hormones.

    I'm not talking dark color. I mean clear with an amber hue.

    Every guide I've read has suggested amber color. Yes I clean my electrodes and used air.

    I've tried clear all the way to amber. In my experience and opinion amber works better on more plants and faster show times.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
  3.  
    blake9999

    blake9999 Well-Known Member

    I used a iPhone charger (5 volts i believe) as my power source and a air pump for bubbles and motion in the jar. Ran it for seven hours the first day, then three hours the next. Had to wipe the black shit off the electrodes about every half hour. Laser light shines a bright line through it. I would take a picture but the damn flash washes out the laser light. Mine came out Amber colored.
     
  4.  
    EverythingsHazy

    EverythingsHazy Well-Known Member

    I know the purposes of use are different for humans and p lants, but the method of how it enters the tissues is the same. It has to have small enough particles, in order to penetrate into living tissues, unless you are just using it topically, which isn't the case for plants. A side-by-side test of clear CS and amber CS would be cool.

    From everything I've read, I still would recommend people keeping it clear.
     
  5.  
    whitebb2727

    whitebb2727 Well-Known Member

    See that's the thing. Every guide for plants I've read says to go for amber. I'm not talking dark color. Just a hue.

    This is from multiple breeders guides from the top selling breeders.

    I say use what works. I've had the best luck with the amber.
     
  6.  
    Zero_OS

    Zero_OS Well-Known Member

    Confirmed. I made a batch of cs that looks a little like piss, and I get a zero reading on ec and ppms...not sure how others are getting a ppm reading from their cs. Haven't used it to generate pollen yet, but it sure is working wonders on my athletes feet.
     
    blake9999 and whitebb2727 like this.

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