5 x 5 light set up

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
Mr Prawn, I bought some Bio Diesel Marine CalMg plus and didn't notice that the N content is quite high which will be no good during flower N9/Ca8/Mg1.5. Do you use CalMag during flower and if so what type?
No doubt they green at the mo tho!
FC
 

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
For flower, GH Calimagic is what I use, as it's low in nitrogen (N-Ca-Mg = 1-5-1.5): https://generalhydroponics.com/calimagic/

For veg, I use a higher N Flairform additive (N-Ca-Mg = 4-6-2).

I use flowering nutrients all the way through veg and flower. The higher N Calmag supplements nitrogen in veg and then I swap Calmags in flower.
CaliMagic really does a good job in veg as well as long as you're using the Gro with your nutes.
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
Thought I'd messed up but that's cool, I'll just use it for Veg, I do like the idea of using bloom nuts right through as I would love to reduce the amount of bottles I have. When I get close to restocking I'll revisit this with you guys.
On ya
FC
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
25 x 25 x 3mm ally angle, Tek screws, 18g solid core wire and 2.5mm twin core flex from Bunnings

Drivers and Pots from ADM Instruments, but Arrow is cheaper - next time I'd buy the "A" type drivers as you get an extra 100watts of juice for free, its what was originally suggested to me but I wanted remote pots because I was going to mount drivers inside tent, when I wised up and mounted outside I realised the errors of my way, still OK at 640w at the wall (@600w at lights) I reckon tho, time will tell. If your sold on remote pots maybe the HLG-480h-54b would have been a better option.
WAGOs from ebay

All you will ever need to know about light spread is here:
https://www.rollitup.org/t/qb96-elite-v2-w-sstx-heatsink-question.977654/page-1

piece of piss bro

FC
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
Well since this is my own Weedi-pedia thread, its time to pick @Prawn Connery brains again:bigjoint:

I note some of your informative posts re Coco feeding in another thread and remembering I have come back to Coco after Perlite for a few years I'd be appreciative of your comments pls.

So my current:
Tap water is pH 7.2, EC 0.564
Reservoir is pH 6.03, EC 2.043 (so plus 1.5)
Run to waste pH 6.2, EC 1.97
Last week when I checked run off it was EC plus 0.2 from input

I used to run my EC based on Canna Calculator on the medium - heavy feed guide in the ole days. I'm a bit spooked by some of the threads at how hard I am running nutrients, based on normal feed guide at a week before flip the Canna Calc says:
Light Feed EC 1.9 (plus 1.3)
Med Feed EC 2.0 (plus 1.45)

Next, its easy to say run 10-20% run off, but in real world terms, I have no idea how much my % is because I run a reservoir, do you think 1 litre per plant per day is ok? - currently 3 feeds per day.

Could you give me some guidance on nutrient vs run off vs # of feeds per day pls ?

Oh and just to top it all off, what size and type of pots (-fabric?) do you think would be good for me, I'm gonna change things a bit next time as its still a bit leary after the change over.

Phew my head hurts now
Chur Chur my man
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Over many years of growing in coco, I've developed a simple formula for pot size: 1 litre per ounce. You may get a little more or less, but essentially if you are growing 4 plants, and you expect to get, say, 6-8oz off each plant (doable under 600W of LED), then you would need at least 8-litre (2-gallon) pots, or even 10 litres - but no bigger. A 10-litre pot is more than enough for a half-pound plant (or 10oz, below). My mate uses fabric pots and they work fine, but I've notice no real benefit, as they air prune the roots and my style of growing requires multiple waterings to deliver fresh nutrient solution and oxygen to the root zone, similar to other hydro methods.

SchnaCal.jpg

Now would you believe I don't use an EC or TDS meter and never have. I simply follow the directions on the label, and tune things as I go along. Most 2-part coco nutes advise around 5ml per litre, so I start a little under and work my way up. With run-to-waste, you need less nutrient than in a recirculating system. One thing I've noticed growing under LEDs is I've started to use a CalMag supplement which I never needed before with the same nutrients (CX) under HPS. I've always added Budlink (silica), and at times a bit of Monster Bud:

coco2.jpg
In summer I water five times for one minute at a time each 12/12. I stop watering about 2 hours before lights off, and no water during lights off (total 14 hours). 1 litre of runoff per plant per day is fine - maybe a little less, but certainly between 500ml and 1 litre per pot and no more (otherwise it's a waste). I have a bypass valve in my reservoir and a tap on my main line which I turn up or down to control the amount of nutrient I deliver to the pots with each watering - the remainder sprays back into the res to aerate it each time the pump comes on. I've found the more often you water (small amount at a time), the better the results in coco.

PumpBypass.jpg

I know this isn't all that scientific, but I simply watch my plants for any sign of nutrient burn (leaf tips) or deficiency (shouldn't have a problem with Canna), and back off a little, bearing in mind that, even with constant flushing, there will still be some nutrient build-up in the coco, and the plants' nutrient requirements towards the end of flowering diminish, so you can start adding plain water instead of nutrient solution to your reservoir in the last week.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Here you go. It is a pot-within-a-pot system. One pot is for the plants, the other is a catchment pot. The 19mm drain lines feed into one that exits the tent and drains into a bucket that I empty regularly. I used to have the drain line going all the way outside, but the longer the line, the easier it blocks. You'll notice I went up from 13mm drain lines to 19mm after a while. You'll also notice my plants are raised off the floor on a wooden bench to provide gravity drainage.

The inlet lines are the reverse. One main 13mm line comes in from the reservoir and splits into a number of 4mm feeder lines, with two per pot. I will run one or two feeder lines per pot depending on the stage of growth, as I have a staggered (perpetual) grow. I use a combination of feeder lines and the main-line tap to regulate the amount of nutrient solution I feed each minute.
feederline.jpg
PlumbingExit.jpg

PlumbingClose.jpg

IMG_0461.JPG
 

KonopCh

Well-Known Member
@Prawn Connery And food goes from reservoir bucket, gravity feed? Or with pump? Drainage buckets are DIY, how do you make waterproof and failproof holes at the bottom?
I wanna copy your setup or better say I want to try DTW.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Have a look at post #69 - you can see the pond pump in the reservoir. It pumps via 13mm line to the grow tent. There is a bypass sprinkler inside the reservoir which aerates water back into the reservoir as the pumps turn on via a digital timer (one minute on five times every 12 hour lights-on period).

On the 13mm main line outside the reservoir is an inline tap - turning the tap regulates the amount of water that goes to the pots. If you turn the tap on fully, most of the water goes to the pots with some falling back into the reservoir. If you turn the tap mostly off, less water goes to the pots and more water recirculates into the reservoir.

The catchment pots do not have any holes in them. I drill a single hole at the base, and use a rubber grommet to seal it. Have a look here. This was the first iteration of my new set-up which used 13mm garden hose. I swapped to 19mm hydro hose later to improve drainage, as some of the roots were growing into the catch pots and blocking the drains:
catchpots.jpg
pots2.jpg
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
Ar Prawn what a laugh my table is identical except 3/4" ply....

Well I think I am on the right track then, I prolly need to reduce feeds early on when I first start to maybe 1 a day and work upto 3 where I am at now, then 5 in flower but apart from this I think my feed schedule is ok. I use Halos, but have a digital timer that runs in seconds and an air-stone which runs lights on so same same more or less.

Yeah the Canna is 2-4mls per litre so I will stay with the light feed schedule I think, no Cannazyme or similar?

This post interested me by @im4satori and I think seems pretty sound from when I have checked my run offs.
if your waste is higher than your feed your probably over feeding

ph goes up EC goes down = raise EC maybe if they show deficiency
ph goes down and or EC goes up = lower EC your over feeding (or you got root disease)
I scored a nice 5mm ally drip tray from work today 900 x 900 with a 3/4" drain so next time I am going to sit my pots in this and easy for waste collection. Bro a 10 litre pot is TINY with a capital T, is this just from our local hardware or something a bit more smancy? I'll follow the piper on this one too next time

I'm running the 70/30 Coco/Perlite, you likey just straight Coco hey.

At this rate Cob, your gonna have to find a new student soon, Ima running out of questions for ya, oh and FWIW if I pull 8 each I'd just about blow ya

Just about........

Thanks man
FC
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
So do you bung your clones straight into your 8l tub or transplant up.

Yeah like your idea of less is more I think. I'm running veg/bloom nuts, cannazym, calmag, budlink, humibooster and pk13/14 as required. I lost my way a bit I think:wall:, previous in coco was nuts, budlink, cannazyme and pk. Its funny, sometimes the more we think we know the harder we make it for ourselves, sigh....
FC
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
The beauty of run-to-waste is it's less fussy about what you feed it. The plant takes what it needs, and the waste nutrient is flushed out and replenished with fresh nutrient. The nutrient ratios can be a little bit out, but of course you still need to use a decent nutrient to begin with, with all the essential macro and micro nutrients.

I have separate cloning and veg areas, so my clones are vegged in small pots first. These are seedlings, but you get the idea:
3weeksTop.jpg

Vegstripfront.jpg
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
Professor Connery

Yeah I thought of something I'd like to hear your thoughts on.

Leaf defoliation - yes no? when and how hard?
Thanks cuz
 

Frank Cannon

Well-Known Member
@ the professor - I think this pretty much sums it up, and in my case, better to get an even canopy, so achieving this through a combination of topping, scrogging and selective leaf plucking of taller branches to allow shorter ones to catch up sounds sound to me. I did a full defoliation last time and the colas just did not fill out all away along the cola - these clones were given to so it may well have been the strain but nothing like I had done before.

I think probably prune anything spindly under the mesh half way through stretch (Lollipop) and some judicious leaf plucking of larger fan leaves shading might be the way to go. Does this sound like I am on the right track bro?

I've tried both over the years, and what I've noticed is when you strip all the fan leaves away, you remove a lot of the plant's stored energy (in the form of starches, as well as mobile nutrients), as well as all the chloroplasts in those leaves that conduct photosynthesis.

You think of all the energy the plant has used to build those structures, as well as all the energy that is stored in them, and you have just taken that away.

After all, what is the first thing you notice about a stripped plant after you remove all it's fan leaves? The plant straight away starts to rebuild, replacing fan leaves, enlarging those that were not removed, and diverting energy into this process that could be used to build root structures, main stems, branches and new growth. You have basically stunted the plant.

Now let's have a think about the reasons for lollipopping (stripping fan leaves). It is to let light into the undergrowth, correct? Good. But after you remove all those leaves to allow light into the undergrowth, what part of the plant is it that actually uses that light? If you said "all the leaves you have just removed", you would be mostly correct.

Cannabis flowers do contain chloroplasts, so they do photosynthesise. But they are not as efficient at converting electro-magnetic energy (light) into stored energy (starches) and transportable energy (sugars) as leaves.

So that's what I mean by a "false economy" - you have allowed more light in, but you have removed the very structures that most efficiently use that light.

Similar to roots, leaves capture, store and supply energy to other parts of the plant. The less distance travelled, the more efficiently energy and nutrient can be transported. The more light, the more energy can be converted. The larger the leaf volume, the more energy can be stored.

Plants are not stupid. If there is no light, they have two choices. Just like with growing roots, they can "search" (expend energy stretching for light, like a root stretches for nutrient and moisture), or they can let that part of the plant expend its remaining energy and die, while the plant concentrates on transporting nutrient to and from other parts of the plant that have adequate light.

The plant does whatever is more efficient.

Where there is light, there is growth. Where there is no light, growth will stretch and/or eventually die off.

So what does this long post mean? It means there are more efficient ways to provide light to plants than removing all their stored energy and chloroplasts.

If you "lollipop" a plant and then put it straight into flower, you will temporarily stunt it and the plant will use valuable energy to grow new fan leaves and restore lost starches and mobile nutrients instead of expanding its structure to increase flowering sites.

If you "lollipop" a plant and then allow it to grow back in veg before putting it into flower, what have you achieved? Nothing. You've just temporarily stunted the plant and you still end up with lots of leaves anyway!

OK, so I know "lollipping" can also mean removing underdeveloped branches and growth at the bottom of the plant to turn it into a "lollipop" where most of the branches are an even height to maximise the canopy. This would be preferable, and you can also remove fan leaves at branch junctions to "stunt" (or rather slow) individual branches to allow other branches to catch up. This usually means removing some of the top fan leaves on newer branches that are higher to allow lower branches to stretch and catch up.

In terms of light and plant efficiency, an even-height canopy makes the best use of a concentration of light at that point. Filling in that canopy is the most important thing. Having enough leaf and root mass to support growth is also important. You can remove leaves and allow light to penetrate, but that light will be weaker than the light above at canopy height.

So is it better to allow weaker light to penetrate further into a canopy that has lots of holes it it (multiple layers of bud sites at different heights), or to fill in the canopy to maximise the best concentration of light at a certain height by having an even layer or "carpet" of buds?

In my opinion, it is the latter.
THIS is fucken mental bro, nice work
https://www.rollitup.org/attachments/swizz2-jpg.4220339/
 
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