Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by Zbud94, Mar 12, 2019 at 8:31 PM.
Exactly. 3X the cost. Using 320's is even worse. 90X6=540 compared to the $180 for 6 LRS.
Seems I was a bit off my numbers. I meant 2400ma.
Depends on what you want from your build. Highest Eff. or total cost of build. The LRS is only 88% eff where the HLG's are up to 96% eff. So any gains by the strips being used is negated by the different drivers eff.
Yepp, but 150mA is probably pulsed maximum current. When 60mA is nominal current 120mA would be the theoretical maximum. So the real max. current per 2 and 4ft. strip is 1920mA then and 960mA for the 1footers.
And no, they are not underrated. The numbers you see in the table above are tested with 25°C and they always test them with short impulses. When running with a stable current they will heat up and the efficiency goes down. Between 25 and 85°C the difference is typ. 12-14% depending on the spectrum and the thermal performance.
3v x 150mA is already 0,45w and these are 0,2w diodes. SMD2835 exsist in 0,2w, 0,5w and 1w. I've added the selection tool so you can compare them yourself but I'm 100% sure its the smd2835, gen.2, 0,2w and 150mA permanently is above their limits. IMO its already time for a 3rd generation cuz they are as old as Samsungs F-series. We really need something comparable to force Samsung to reduce their overdrawn prices. 30 bucks for an H-influx L06 strip is simple too much especially when you can get better strips for half the price. The more competition they get the better for us.
You talking about these Gen2's?
No, about the german 50cm strips. 98 vs 88 LM301b, higher effeciency, higher total PPF and half the price. And I'm sure they still make a good profit cause they made the strips in house with their own pick and place bot. Samsung let them produce and sell them for sure with 3 times the profit per diode. These EB gen2 can not keep up with LM301b based strips. Even if you run them with half current(350mA) they don't reach the 200lm/w mark. Maybe 185 and 190lm/w 3500/5000°k, but that's it and you would need twice as much EB's to do that.
Little off topic but have been busy today sorting out the 2019 outdoor season.
Ordered pineapple trainwreck and blueberry muffin from Humboldt seed CO both say 45 day finishers i emailed them a couple weeks ago with some questions and they were very quick to respond! They "reassured" me that they would finish by first week of October... we will find out.
As of right now ill be using my 3x3 vivosun grow tent for the outdoor ladies.
I emailed hlg cause i was about to buy 1 qb96 elite v2 with heatsink but there sold out... should have bought it last night lol. Now i gotta wait 10-14 days...
So with 1 qb96 on a hlg-240h-54 how high should i hang my light in a 3x3 with seedlings ? Only using 1 light. I was thinking 24-36 inches ?
Just bought a kill-a watt meter so ill know precisely what wattage im running.
Be grateful you didn't buy it. That's a HORRIBLE setup for a 3X3. You'll always have to hang it so high and you'll have a constant middle hot spot. You gotta spread that light out on to multiple points.
Just buy a pair of qb132s or shit, for the same damn price, buy 2 atreum288's and run them soft at 60w each (hlg-120/185h-54a) and you won't need a heatsink.
If you're just vegging in the tent and putting them outside later, 100-150watts is plenty for a 3X3. If you're gonna flower, different story.
So i took your advice and just bought a 4 pack of the qb132 v1 3500k for $110
With the qb132 v1 boards would i be better off running them with an hlg-240-1400a , hlg-240-1750a , hlg-240-2100a hlg-240-36a or a hlg-320-2100a ?
Whatever you want to run them at
Is there a cheaper alternative driver in the 300 watt range ?
Or the 200watt:
There is also 150 & 100 watt but I'd recommend the LPF/LPV series if you want those wattage though.
They're obviously not waterproof so make sure it's outside the tent or away from the garden.
Remotely mount it up off da ground.
Thats exactly what i just bought ! And went to home depot and bought 6 3 foot 1x1x1/¹⁶ angle aluminum along with 50 #8 ¾ bolts and #8 nuts
Still need 18 gauge solid core and wire to hang the light.
I was going to mount the lrs-350-36 on top of the light.... i do not foliar spray and i dont let humidity raise over 70% with lights off
I'd still be careful with that.. remote mountings a lot safer
Hell Ya though my man. Those 4 boards are perfect for that driver. You'll have a great light. Did you buy a 4 pack from HLG directly of the 132's? They're only rated for a Max of 2100ma. With the lrs-350-36 you're getting 9.7a across the 4 boards which is2400a piece. So I guess turn the voltage pot down a bit?
If i could i definitely would... but i cant... have my 3x3 for outdoor in the hallway... ran out of room lol.
ACTUALLY!! I could potentially put it on top of the tent mounted on a small steel plate.
So when mounting externally people suggest using 14/16 gauge stranded wire instead of solid core because it is more durable when bent.
Ive also been reading that these QB boards are under powered ! On led gardener the guy used one qb288 v1 and took it to 600 watts ! And it didnt blow ! So my guess the 132's use pretty thick plates to mount the samsung diodes (same diodes as in qb288 test ) the diodes are also spaced out much more on a qb132 than a qb288.
Im thinking that these boards could handle a bit more then they suggest... especially if you had a small fan blow over top of the boards... im think you could get 2300-2500 ma obviously efficiency will go down... but at 2.63 umols ( i believe) at 75 watts is pretty dam good.
My plan is to run on a killawatt meter and adjust down to 300 watts if the driver allows me to... ive read the voltage adjustments arecvery minimal...
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