100% Perlite Hempy question.

gr865

Well-Known Member
My RO is 50 ppm. My Base nutes A&B, 200 - 250 ppm veg, 300 - 350 flower.
Today's Worksheet:
20190317_114156 (2).jpg

I am at week 6 of flower so I replaced Coco B with Dry KoolBloom.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Here's a question. Am I gaining anything by using FloraNova Bloom over Maxibloom?
i'm not hugely familiar with GH products, besides ph up and down. isn't the Nova stuff designed for hard water? might have that wrong....but i doubt there's an otherwise huge difference between the similar products coming from the same manufacturer
 

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
I use FloraNova I’m happy with the results.

My mix is around 750ppm total in veg.
Only use 3-400ppm worth the Grow. The rest of the ppm come from other things.

I am surprised to hear so many people in the 4-500ppm total range.

Maybe I should step it down and see it if I still get the same results
1A1C4383-11F9-4F35-BB12-572100C38490.jpeg
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
I use FloraNova I’m happy with the results.

My mix is around 750ppm total in veg.
Only use 3-400ppm worth the Grow. The rest of the ppm come from other things.

I am surprised to hear so many people in the 4-500ppm total range.

Maybe I should step it down and see it if I still get the same results
View attachment 4302305
see, there ya go...it's a different style..but some people make it work.
?
i'm curious, what is your wattage per square foot in veg and in flower, and what kind of lighting? i'm think it's a more aggressive profile than i use....
 

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
Well, FNB was a big fat fail at my house and so was Mega Crop and I tried MC twice in two versions.

I'll send back the FloraNova and go back to Maxi that I have been running for years.

I found out that I prefer the powder over the liquid nutes and FloraNova will stain if spilled. Mega crop grew algae on top of my Perlite. I don't have those issue with Maxi and can consistently measure powder within .1 of a gram.

After all these nute changes my plants are showing some extra stretching but should mostly recover from my experiments. All are back on 4.5 grams MGrow +1 epsom and all is right with the world again.

It's my understanding that leaves standing up firm means high "blood" pressure and is a good sign because it indicates a fast metabolism. The only nutes I have ever used which gives me these praying leaves is the one I was running before, so I'm going back for good.

For Veg - Maxigrow @ 4.5g + 1g Epsom from rooted clone to flip

For Bloom - Maxibloom @ 2.5g + Maxigrow @ 2.5g + 1g Epsom from flip to chop
 

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
see, there ya go...it's a different style..but some people make it work.
?
i'm curious, what is your wattage per square foot in veg and in flower, and what kind of lighting? i'm think it's a more aggressive profile than i use....
I am at 61 watts/sqft in veg and flower.
3500k COBs. And a red and blue chip ring on the mars hydro COB that’s in the mix.
 

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
you don't taper nutes towards the end?

i'd bet that you'll see a spike in your runoff toward week 6 or 7 or thereabouts when they stop eating as much.
yes I should and that's exactly why I posted this thread. What happened was later in my cycle my PPMs were 1450 and plants were not happy. It was buildup during flower that was my only problem. Now that I know to check the run off I won't let it get to 1450 again.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
I am at 61 watts/sqft in veg and flower.
3500k COBs. And a red and blue chip ring on the mars hydro COB that’s in the mix.
i'm at 30 in veg and 45 in flower...which i know is insufficient for flower. had to use a 400 temporarily when my second 600 ballast took a dump. i'll be back to 52 -3 when i replace it. that 10-15 watts in flower and 30...watts in veg could be part of the reason it works for you. i might not be supplying enough light for the plants to be able to metabolize that much food. but i get pretty good vigorous growth, and the plants droop by the end of their day, which has always signaled to me that they are glutted, and couldn't "eat" anymore....hmmm, things for both of us to think about....
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
I went through this when I first got my quantum boards. I think the theory is you want them to droop just as the lights go out and that's all the light they can absorb in one day.
yeah, and they are...but now i'm wondering if they would be getting "glutted" if they had some more food, and could process more light?
 

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
yeah, and they are...but now i'm wondering if they would be getting "glutted" if they had some more food, and could process more light?
I don't know but I don't think it has anything to do with food. I ended up buying a lux meter and experimented with that some. There are Lux schedules around but ultimately you have to dial your own in.

They also claim it's strain dependant. Equatoral strains can absob more light that northern bred strains. The only time I see oversaturation in my grow is early veg and think it's a good problem to have.
 

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
i'm at 30 in veg and 45 in flower...which i know is insufficient for flower. had to use a 400 temporarily when my second 600 ballast took a dump. i'll be back to 52 -3 when i replace it. that 10-15 watts in flower and 30...watts in veg could be part of the reason it works for you. i might not be supplying enough light for the plants to be able to metabolize that much food. but i get pretty good vigorous growth, and the plants droop by the end of their day, which has always signaled to me that they are glutted, and couldn't "eat" anymore....hmmm, things for both of us to think about....
It could be that the more light alows then the metabolize more.

When I get the dropping near the end of the lights off. It’s usialy means my lights are too close.

If I move the lights up say 3-4 inches the droop wile happen a little later in the lights on cycle. I usually move my lights up until I don’t get any dropping in lights on.

I’m not sure on the science behind any of it. I Grow what I see and see what I Grow. Plants seam happier.
 

Earlyriser76

Well-Known Member
My nutes go in at ph 5.6 and within a few days the runoff is up to 6.6.
My nutes go in and my runoff is 910ppm and within a few days the runoff is <750ppm.

This is crazy trying to manage all these pots at different PPMs and Ph levels. There must be something wrong.

I'm thinking about giving up on this way to grow.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
that's because you're overthinking it...hempy buckets are not hydroponics...they're a hybred between hydro and soiless medium. you don't manage the res in a hempy bucket, it's just there. i have never checked my run off ph or ppm...because it's not a hydro reservoir...you put it in DAILY...you don't have to maintain a balance, you just put it in in the right range, and get a little run off each time...and the right range is 5.8...you don't put it in low and let it rise...quite treating it like dwc...ignore the existence of the res...treat it like a pot full of coco...(or w/e)
 

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
I flush my Hempys with PHd water after every 20gal rez. 7-10days.

I do it until my run off PH is back to 5.8-6.0. And my run off ppm are usialy half what my input ppm are when done flushing.
 
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