Help needed any suggestion??

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
plus the more light u have going to them the denser ur bud will be.
most of the time more light is better , but there is definatly such thing as too much light , so the above statement is not true at all.

a 400 is good for your space for now specially if you have the light dialed in real good on the grow space only. more light wouldnt hurt at all , but its not necessary either.





soil
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
well i was hopin you woulda watered a tiny bit like you would with any other transplant , but my mis communication made you think the drier the better ..... o well ... "our bad"

if you woulda done that then when she dried is when i woulda expected good results ..... water it now (plain water or if you have molasses would be great) to the point where all the soil is moist ...... then wait for it to dry. were lookin at about a week , so be patient. she might not make it through it , but theres hope.



now what about the other one ?

soil
Ok when you say until the soil is moist, you just want me to water it until moist and not so water drains out the bottom?? also I do have some unsulphered mollasses how much should I put into the water? 1-2tbs??
I went thru and trimmed off all the dead crispy fan leaves on BOTH plants. The other plant is just about the same as the transplanted one. There is some new growth coming in on both plants.
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
most of the time more light is better , but there is definatly such thing as too much light , so the above statement is not true at all.

a 400 is good for your space for now specially if you have the light dialed in real good on the grow space only. more light wouldnt hurt at all , but its not necessary either.

soil
yes there is a such thing as two much light. in all honesty i dont believe a 400 would be enought for a 5x5 space. it will work for sure . im not saying it wont. but i would have still gone with at least a 600 for that sized space for the light penetration. if u dicede to grow big plants ur gonna have issues with light penetration in ur sized space once they stretch in flower. and ur lighting has a lot to do with how ur buds develope and how dense they arealong with ur node spacing. lighting is a lot more important than u would think.
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Well guys... I just ran out today and picked me up a new 400w HPS. So I have taken down all the other Floro's and CFL's I had inthere and hung the bad boy up. Damm that thing is BRIGHT!!! so by doing so I have went from 24,800 Lumens to 55,000 Lumens. WOO HOO!!! I will keep a close eye on temps and how the plants respond. I currently have it about 16" above my plants. I put my hand above the plants to feel how hot it was and it doesn't seem bad at all.
Is there anything I should be watching for after switching to the HPS??? Thanks.
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
any kind of heat stress. that and put a fan blowing thru the path of the light. it will help displace a lot of the heat that could potentially hurt ur babies. doesnt have to be strong any fan on a low setting will work. good luck.
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Ok, I have a fan blowing thru the path of the light like you had mentioned. My room is maintaining a temp of 77Deg and 32 Rh.
Thanks man I am hoping this light works out much better for me. Now I cant wait for the new seeds to sprout up and veg them out and prepare them for this new light.
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
u will notice a huge dif. it will take about a week or so before they start the final stretch. but once they do u will be way happier.
what were u using for veg again? was it a t5 and a few cfls?

ive started rockin a few extra 27k bulbs with my 65k+ bulbs to give it a dual spectum thing during veg. since ive noticed huge increase in growth within days of switching out a few of the bulbs. just some food for thought. :)
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
u will notice a huge dif. it will take about a week or so before they start the final stretch. but once they do u will be way happier.
what were u using for veg again? was it a t5 and a few cfls?

ive started rockin a few extra 27k bulbs with my 65k+ bulbs to give it a dual spectum thing during veg. since ive noticed huge increase in growth within days of switching out a few of the bulbs. just some food for thought. :)
I am vegging under a T5 and Cfl's all in the 6500k spectrum. I too have thought and done some research into vegging with a couple of cooler spectrum bulbs to have some duel spectrum on them during veg. If I do, I think I will let them get started a little before trying it.
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Ok when you say until the soil is moist, you just want me to water it until moist and not so water drains out the bottom?? also I do have some unsulphered mollasses how much should I put into the water? 1-2tbs??
I went thru and trimmed off all the dead crispy fan leaves on BOTH plants. The other plant is just about the same as the transplanted one. There is some new growth coming in on both plants.
what size pot is that ...3gal ? we are trying to get as much of the soil moist as possible without soaking it. so no dont worry about runoff.

just use about a half tbs in the gallon of molasses , and dump about a third , no more then half the gallon in the pot. (if its 3gal)

at this point dont trim anything that dont wanna just fall right off. you'll wanna get rid of the dead shit , but right this second your plant is surviving off the dead stuff because the roots are fried.

whats the moisture like on the nontransplanted one ?







soil
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
ive started rockin a few extra 27k bulbs with my 65k+ bulbs to give it a dual spectum thing during veg. since ive noticed huge increase in growth within days of switching out a few of the bulbs. just some food for thought. :)
Good readin guys! ALWAYS rock both if you can. the plants would like to have the full spec , not just 5500 an so on. also the same applies during bloom ... use both. i have rocked every way possible for veg an bloom and now i just stick to both all the way through the cycle. mh an hps in bloom ..... blue an red floros in veg.







soil :bigjoint:
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Its a 5 gallon pot. I put 1tbs of molasses into a gallon of water and gave it about a 1/2 gallon of water.
The 1-2" of soil is dry but beyond that is still pretty damp on the non-transplanted one. Well like I said I had trimmed of alot of the dead fan leaves already and the newer young growth underneath seems to be starting to come in nice. I will try and get a couple of new pics up soon.
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Good readin guys! ALWAYS rock both if you can. the plants would like to have the full spec , not just 5500 an so on. also the same applies during bloom ... use both. i have rocked every way possible for veg an bloom and now i just stick to both all the way through the cycle. mh an hps in bloom ..... blue an red floros in veg.

soil :bigjoint:
Yes, thank you guys very much!!!! I had read and read before ever posting, maybe I was a little gun shy at first. But you guys here have been great!!! I cannot express how much I appreciate all the help and advise.
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Also heat is not a problem for me, I have taken out the heater and my lights on temp is now 74deg and my lights off temp is 64deg. and this is with the exhaust fan shut off as well. Are these temps ok??
I have a passive vent in the bottom of the wall and a fan blowing around in the room but no exhaust. Can I get by without exhausting? will the passive vent allow enough fresh air??
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Its a 5 gallon pot. I put 1tbs of molasses into a gallon of water and gave it about a 1/2 gallon of water.
The 1-2" of soil is dry but beyond that is still pretty damp on the non-transplanted one. Well like I said I had trimmed of alot of the dead fan leaves already and the newer young growth underneath seems to be starting to come in nice. I will try and get a couple of new pics up soon.
just let her dry out real good too .... it might take a couple weeks , just be patient.





soil
 

laserbrn

Well-Known Member
I am always willing to help anyone who is serious about growing. I tend not to help those that are way off track and have unrealistic expectations about what this hobby is. So far you've shown you are one of the good ones. Given some time and experience you'll be succusseful at this. I've been around doing it for 6 or 7 years now (hopeless before I found forums and which books to read) and I've learned a lot over my many grows. I've assisted others with many many grows in real life sorts speak, and I have a pretty good understanding of the "mentality" of the peopel who are generally succussful vs. those that don't get it, and will never get it.

Growing a plant indoors is in general not a difficult task, but there are a lot of details that you have to pay attention to and if all of those details are adhered to, leave it alone and don't try to play God. This is the basic list of details that are important. If you don't have a good understanding or you'd like some informaiton on any of these sections, please ask and we'll make sure you've got it down.

1) Temperature/Humidity/Ventilation

2) Light. Lots of it, used efficently during lights on. None of it, absolute darkness during lights out.

3) Containers - Proper color, proper drainage, maximize size for your space for the # of plants that you want to grow. More rootspace = bigger healthier plants.

4) Soil - A good quality soil save you a lot of trouble down the road. I use FFOF with Fox Farms nutrients and honestly, not that happy with them. But then, I'm going back to hydro after this grow. My last 3 or 4 have been soil as I've been trying to find the right "recipe" and while my plants are doing well, hydro has been more productive for me. I didn't want to leave a big gaping hole in my growing knowledge so I tried to put a legit amount of time into being a dirtfarmer. I believe it's a total of 5 grows in soil for me and that's enough.

5) Water(ing) - Your water source should be good clean water. Some people can get away with using tap water. As such most nutrient manufacturers do not add Cal and sometimes Mag (depends on lineup in my experience) because it's found in tap water. If you live somewhere with particularly hard water (high ppm) you should avoid using tap water. If your water is relatively soft (200ppm or less) then it's generally better to go ahead an use the tap water. If tap water is used, let it sit out for 24 hours with the lid off to evaporate chlorine

If you use distilled water or water that has been purified (generally through Reverse Osmosis) then you will certainly need to add Cal/Mag and I prefer a product from Botanicare called Cal Mag Plus. I add it to RO water because I find it gives me consistency no matter when I move or what the water is like, I start from zero PPM. I started in hydro so I think it's just a thing now for me.

The watering schedule and practices are also very important. The plants should be watered only when the container is dry. This is generally a longer duration during the early days and shorter near the end. Do not water just the center or just the edge of the container. If this soil is allowed to become very dry the water will find paths to follow and you'll notice that it drains very quickly. Simply dumping around the edges will allow the water to pass straight through, out the drainage holes and never have a real chance at resaturating the soil. Apply the water at a pace that allows the soil to absorb it. Spread the water evenly between center and edges. You do want the entire pot moist as best as possible as it encourages healthy root growth and ensures that you are using as much of the rootmass as possible. It took all that time to grow it, use it!

6) Feeding Schedule and nutrients - With good quality soil you won't need nutrients until about 6 weeks into it. The most important tidbit that I can offer on this subject that is so damned vast, is that nutrients do not make your plants grow faster, bigger, or have larger yields.
If your plant has adequate access to the nutrients that it needs it will grow as fast as your lights and it's genetics will grow. If it is lacking access, it will show symptoms as it begins to use its own stores to continue on. If it has an abundance it will burn or it will suffer from toxicity.

7) Pests. There are lots of them. I have addressed this problem by bug bombing twice during every grow. Once at the beginning of the last week of veg and again at the end of the first week of flower. Using this regimen I have never had to deal with spidermites, thrips, aphids, or any of the other crapola that is out there. If you don't want to use pesticide just make sure that you are doing something to fight this fight before it becomes a problem. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (or however that goes). After I see "crowns" on my plants it is to me, to0 late to use pesticides without risking having residue on or in the final product. That's why I get it done before the planst have "flowered" at all and it has prevented any late flowering problems for me.

Good luck...If you have any problems or questions feel free to ask. There is a lot of information on this forum on every subject imagineable so don't be scared to use the search function. I'm not sure if the growFAQ is still up, most of it is pretty outdated, but the plants grow the same way so it's still valid. I realize that you know alot of this information, but in case you missed something or had a question about something I just want to make sure you've got ALL of the basics that you need to get to the end with a successful crop. There are more details in between, but they can be addressed during the grow if they come up, this is a good start. If you've got all these things, you've got a good start.
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
holy crap novel. lol. no way am i readng that whole thing right now.

temps are good by the way. my shed gets into the low 60s at night and everything is still goin fine. i wouldnt go much colder than 60 tho.
 

TwoTokeSmoke

Active Member
Thats exactly what I am talking about... for someone to take that much time to put forth that much effort to help someone out says alot!!!!
Many thanks!!!
 

wyteboi

Well-Known Member
Thats exactly what I am talking about... for someone to take that much time to put forth that much effort to help someone out says alot!!!!
Many thanks!!!
thats what i say ! :clap::clap:

great book laser !


i keep forgeting to let all these folks know to leave the tap water out overnight to get rid of the chlorine. THATS MAJOR.





soil :bigjoint:
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
its a copy and paste. i have a few of those saved already too. lol. but i only copy and paste the stuff that needs to be said usually.like plant issues and stuff. still a good post tho. but hey we are generally all good peeps. altho a few of the jack offs on this site should choke and die on an tranny hookers penis. lmao. no offence to anyone that loves tranny hookers. lol.

i aerate my water overnight. speeds up the process and burns up a lot of un useful ppms. plus if i add the orca to my shit right off the bat the chlorine will kill it.
 

wheels619

Well-Known Member
here is something u will need later on. got it off a super helpful thread cant remember who first posted it tho.

[h=2]
Pot Plant Problems, a Visual Guide[/h]
Heat Stress


Look closely, and you'll see the brown leaf edges that are indicative of heat stress. This damage looks a lot like nutrient burn, except it occurs only at the tops of the plants closest to the lamps. There's only one cure for this...get the heat away from the plants, either by moving the lamps or moving the plants.
Attachment 1900063
Figure 1


There's a good chance that this plant was subjected to nutrient solution burn. These symptoms are seen when the EC concentration of hydroponic solutions is too high. These symptoms also appear when strong nutrient solution is splashed onto the leaves under hot HID lamps, causing the leaves to burn under the solution.


Figure 2
Many hydroponic gardeners see this problem. It's the beginning of nutrient burn. It indicates that the plants have all the nutrients they can possibly use, and there's a slight excess. Back off the concentration of the nutrient solution just a touch, and the problem should disappear. Note that if the plants never get any worse than this here, then the plants are probably just fine.​

Figure 3
Figure 4 is definitely nute burn. The high level of nutrients accumulates in the leaves and causes them to dry out and burn up as shown here. You must flush with clear, clean water immediately to allow the roots to recover, and prevent further damage. Cannabis can get by with too little nutrients better than too much. Too little and they just slow their growth; too much and they can die quickly.


Figure 4
Over Watering

Your plants should only need watering every 3 days or so if you are growing in soil or a soil mix. You should use your finger to test to see that the soil has completely dried out before watering. It is better to give too little water than too much. Too little water shows by drooping leaves.


Figure 5


Both of these leaves in figure 3 and figure 4 are from the same plant. It could be over fertilization, but more likely it is due to the pH being off. Too high or too low a pH can lock up nutrients in the form of undissolved salts and compounds, some of which are actually toxic to the plants. What then happens is the grower tries to supplement the plants diet by adding more fertilizers, throwing off the pH even more and locking up even more nutrients. This type of problem is seen more often in soil mixes, where inconsistent mixing of the medium's components leads to "hot" spots.


Figure 6


Figure 7
Ozone damage typically found near the generator. Although a rare problem, symptoms generally appear as a Mg deficiency, but the symptoms are localized to immediately around the generator.


Figure 8
Root stunting is characteristic of calcium deficiency, acidity, aluminum toxicity, and copper toxicity. Some species may also show it when boron deficient. The shortened roots become thickened, the laterals become stubby, peg-like, and the whole system often discolors, brown or grey.


New shoots unopened; young leaves distorted; dead leaf tips; pale green plant = copper deficiency
New shoots withered or dead; petiole or stem collapse; shoots stunted; green plant = calcium deficiency
Young leaves pale green or yellow; rosetting or dead tip; die back; dark green plant = boron deficiency


Mobile elements are more likely to exhibit visual deficiencies in the older leaves, because during demand these elements will be exported to the new growth.


Nitrate - Ammonium is found in both inorganic and organic forms in the plant, and combines with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and sometimes sulfur to form amino acids, amino enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, alkaloids, and purine bases. Nitrogen rates high as molecular weight proteins in plant tissue.
Plants need lots of N during vegging, but it's easy to overdo it. Added too much? Flush the soil with plain water. Soluble nitrogen (especially nitrate) is the form that's the most quickly available to the roots, while insoluble N (like urea) first needs to be broken down by microbes in the soil before the roots can absorb it. Avoid excessive ammonium nitrogen, which can interfere with other nutrients. Too much N delays flowering. Plants should be allowed to become N-deficient late in flowering for best flavor.

Nitrogen Deficiencies
Plants will exhibit lack of vigor, slow growth and will be weak and stunted. Quality and yield will be significantly reduced. Older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Deficient plants will exhibit uniform light green to yellow on older leaves, these leaves may die and drop. Leaf margins will not curled up noticeably. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.


Figure 9
As seen in figure 10 consumption of nitrogen (N) from the fan leaves during the final phase of flowing is normal but can be lessened by the addition of N.


Figure 10

Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
With breakdown of vascular tissue restricting water uptake. Stress resistance is drastically diminished.


Phosphorus is a component of certain enzymes and proteins, adenosine triphosphate (ATP), ribonucleic acids (RNA), deoxyribonucleic acids (DNA) and phytin. ATP is involved in various energy transfer reactions, and RNA and DNA are components of genetic information.
Figure 11 is severe phosphorus (P) deficiency during flowering. Fan leaves are dark green or red/purple, and may turn yellow. Leaves may curl under, go brown and die. Small-formed buds are another main symptom.
Phosphorus deficiencies exhibit slow growing, weak and stunted plants with dark green or purple pigmentation in older leaves and stems.
Some deficiency during flowering is normal, but too much shouldn't be tolerated. Red petioles and stems are a normal, genetic characteristic for many varieties, plus it can also be a co-symptom of N, K, and Mg-deficiencies, so red stems are not a foolproof sign of P-deficiency. Too much P can lead to iron deficiency.
Purpling: accumulation of anthocyanin pigments; causes an overall dark green color with a purple, red, or blue tint, and is the common sign of phosphate deficiency. Some plant species and varieties respond to phosphate deficiency by yellowing instead of purpling. Purpling is natural to some healthy ornamentals.


Figure 11
Figure 12 shows Phosphorus (P) deficiency during vegatative growth. Many people mistaken this for a fungus, but look for the damage to occur near the end of leave, and leaves the color dull greyish with a very brittle texture.


Figure 12

This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability and stability of copper and zinc.


Potassium is involved in maintaining the water status of the plant and the tugor pressure of it's cells and the opening and closing of the stomata. Potassium is required in the accumulation and translocation of carbohydrates. Lack of potassium will reduce yield and quality.

Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken, the plant may also stretch. The plant will become susceptible to disease and toxicity. In addition to appearing to look like iron deficiency, the tips of the leaves curl and the edges burn and die.
Potassium - Too much sodium (Na) displaces K, causing a K deficiency. Sources of high salinity are: baking soda (sodium bicarbonate "pH-up"), too much manure, and the use of water-softening filters (which should not be used). If the problem is Na, flush the soil. K can get locked up from too much Ca or ammonium nitrogen, and possibly cold weather.


Figure 13


Figure 14

Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron and effect the availability of calcium.


Magnesium is a component of the chlorophyll molecule and serves as a co-factor in most enzymes.

Magnesium deficiency will exhibit a yellowing (which may turn brown) and interveinal chlorosis beginning in the older leaves. The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins. Notice how the veins remain somewhat green though as can be seen in figure 15.
Notice how in Figure 16 and 17 the leaves curl upwards like they're praying? They're praying for Mg! The tips may also twist.
This can be quickly resolved by watering with 1 tablespoon Epsom salts/gallon of water. Until you can correct nutrient lockout, try foliar feeding. That way the plants get all the nitrogen and Mg they need. The plants can be foliar feed at ½ teaspoon/quart of Epsom salts (first powdered and dissolved in some hot water). When mixing up soil, use 2 teaspoon dolomite lime per gallon of soil.
If the starting water is above 200 ppm, that is pretty hard water, that will lock out mg with all of the calcium in the water. Either add a 1/4 teaspoon per gallon of epsom salts or lime (both will effectively reduce the lockout or invest into a reverse osmosis water filter.
Mg can get locked-up by too much Ca, Cl or ammonium nitrogen. Don't overdo Mg or you'll lock up other nutrients.



Figure 15


Figure 16


Figure 17

Magnesium toxicity is rare and not generally exhibited visibly. Extreme high levels will antagonize other ions in the nutrient solution.


Zinc plays a roll in the same enzyme functions as manganese and magnesium. More than eighty enzymes contain tightly bound zinc essential for their function. Zinc participates in chlorophyll formation and helps prevent chlorophyll destruction. Carbonic anhydrate has been found to be specifically activated by zinc.

Deficiencies appear as chlorosis in the interveinal areas of new leaves producing a banding appearance as seen in figure 18. This may be accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled. Branch terminals of fruit will die back in severe cases.
Also gets locked out due to high pH. Zn, Fe, and Mn deficiencies often occur together, and are usually from a high pH. Don't overdo the micro-nutrients- lower the pH if that's the problem so the nutrients become available. Foliar feed if the plant looks real bad. Use chelated zinc. Zinc deficiency produces "little leaf" in many species, especially woody ones; the younger leaves are distinctly smaller than normal. Zinc deficiency may also produce "rosetting"; the stem fails to elongate behind the growing tip, so that the terminal leaves become tightly bunched.


Figure 18

Excess Zinc is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency. Excess will cause sensitive plants to become chlorotic.


Immobile elements will show their first symptoms on younger leaves and progress to the whole plant.


Sulfate is involved in protein synthesis and is part of the amino acids, cystine and thiamine, which are the building blocks of proteins. It is active in the structure and metabolism in the plant. It is essential for respiration and the synthesis and breakdown of fatty acids.

The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward. Sulfur deficiencies are light green fruit or younger leaves with a lack of succulence. Elongated roots and woody stem. Although it's hard to see in figure 19, the upper stems of this plant are purple. Although many varieties of cannabis do get purplish stems, the trait generally extends the entire length of the plant's stem, and not just near the top as in this specimen.


Figure 19

Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges. Excess may cause early senescence.


Calcium plays an important role in maintaining cell integrity and membrane permeability.

Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited, blossom end rot and internal decay may also occur and root may be under developed or die back. Deficiency will cause root tip die-back, leaf tip curl and marginal necrosis and chlorosis primarily in younger leaves. Symptoms: young leaves develop chlorosis and distortion such as crinkling, dwarfing, developing a strap-like shape, shoots stop growing and thicken.

Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank. Excess calcium may produce deficiencies in magnesium and potassium.


Iron is an important component of plant enzyme systems for electron transport to carry electrons during photosynthesis and terminal respiration. It is a catalyst for chlorophyll production and is required for nitrate and sulfate reduction and assimilation.

Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that caused by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
Leaves exhibit chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves mainly between the veins, starting with the lower and middle leaves.
Caused by factors that interfere with iron absorption of roots: over irrigation, excessive soluble salts, inadequate drainage, pests, high substrate pH, or nematodes. This is easily corrected by adding an iron supplement with the next watering.
Fe is unavailable to plants when the pH of the water or soil is too high. If deficient, lower the pH to about 6.5 (for rock wool, about 5.7), and check that you're not adding too much P, which can lock up Fe. Use iron that's chelated for maximum availability. Read your fertilizer's ingredients - chelated iron might read something like "iron EDTA". To much Fe without adding enough P can cause a P-deficiency.
Note that when adding iron to the solution, it is often necessary to not use fertilizer for that watering. Iron has a tendency of reacting with many of the components of fertilizer solutions, and will cause nutrient lockup to occur. Read the labels of both the iron supplement and the fertilizer you are using before you attempt to combine the two.


Figure 20

Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.


Manganese is involved in the oxidation reduction process in the photosynthetic electron transport system. Biochemical research shows that this element plays a structural role in the chloroplast membrane system, and also activates numerous enzymes.

Interveinal chlorosis of younger leaves, necrotic lesions and leaf shredding are typical symptom of this deficiency. High levels can cause uneven distribution of chlorophyll resulting in blotchy appearance. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Mn gets locked out when the pH is too high, and when there's too much iron. Use chelated Mn.

Toxicity:Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.


Chloride is involved in the evolution of oxygen in the photosynthesis process and is essential for cell division in roots and leaves. Chlorine raises the cell osmotic pressure and affects stomata regulation and increases the hydration of plant tissue. Levels less than 140 ppm are safe for most plants. Chloride sensitive plants may experience tip or marginal leaf burn at concentrations above 20 ppm.

Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips. Plants with chlorine deficiencies will be pale and suffer wilting.

Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.


Boron biochemical functions are yet uncertain, but evidence suggests it is involved in the synthesis of one of the bases for nucleic acid (RNA uracil) formation. It may also be involved in some cellular activities such as division, differentiation, maturation and respiration. It is associated with pollen germination.

Plants deficient in boron exhibit brittle abnormal growth at shoot tips and one of the earliest symptoms is failure of root tips to elongate normally. Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.

Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward before leaves die and prematurely fall off. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.

Copper is a constituent of many enzymes and proteins. Assists in carbohydrate metabolism, nitrogen fixation and in the process of oxygen reduction.

Symptoms of deficiency are a reduced or stunted growth with a distortion of the younger leaves and growth tip die-back. Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.

Copper is required in very small amounts and readily becomes toxic in solution culture if not carefully controlled. Excess values will induce iron deficiency. Root growth will be suppressed followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots.

Molybdenum is a component of two major enzyme systems involved in the nitrate reeducates, this is the process of conversion of nitrate to ammonium.

Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die. Molybdenum deficiencies frequently resemble nitrogen, with older leaves chlorotic with rolled margins and stunted growth.

Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities. Excess mostly usually does not effect the plant, however the consumption of high levels by grazing animals can pose problems so she might not be too good to smoke.

Sodium seems to encourage crop yields and in specific cases it acts as a protective agent against various toxic salts. It may act as a partial substitute for potassium deficiencies. Excess may cause plant toxicity or induce deficiencies of other elements. If sodium predominates in the solution calcium and magnesium may be affected.

Silicon usually exists in solution as silicic acid and is absorbed in this form. It accumulates as hydrated amorphous silica most abundantly in walls of epidermal cells, but also in primary and secondary walls of other cells. It is largely available in soils and is found in water as well. Inadequate amounts of silicon can reduce tomato yields as much as 50%, cause new leaves to be deformed and inhibit fruit set. At this time toxicity symptoms are undetermined.

Cobalt is essential to many beneficial bacteria that are involved in nitrogen fixation of legumes. It is a component of vitamin B12 which is essential to most animals and possibly in plants. Reports suggest that it may be involved with enzymes needed to form aromatic compounds. Otherwise, it is not understood fully as to its benefit to plant growth, but it is considered essential to some animal health issues.
 
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