White Widow X Bigbud

jujment699

Well-Known Member
Here is a big spoiler on breeding. @Maat Aatack.
Some others might find it too irrelevant.
Also im super stoned :bigjoint: and kinda wrote it as a teaching thing perspective for all noobies who read this in addition to maat... but i meant to tell it as more of like a personal method lol so don't think this is textbook or anything lol...
Didn't meant to do it that way but again since i am this took forever so now im just adding this instead of changing the whole thing xD
:fire: :fire:
I have already started my processes, so if you would like to keep in contact with me Maat i will let you know what i come up with.

It is actually not too difficult to produce seeds without interrupting the grow! For you it could actually be pretty easy, it was for me the more i researched it!
Cutting clones off of plants and prematurely flowering them will show sex (as you know.) Once pollen pods have begun for clones the males actually survive quite well in window sills regardless of the light cycle.
Pollen can be stored for up to a month at a time.

When you officially flower your mothers, simply paint brushing small bits of pollen on even just one flower could produce hundreds of seeds.
Most people don't like losing "potency" of their mothers, a solution would be to lead you back to the solo cup.

en.seedfinder.eu and other websites have great info about phenotypes and which apply. If there happens to be more than one pheno, all you have to do is cut 4 clones per pheno (that way you can see f1, f2, and f3 generation mixes) so if it has 3 possible phenos, you should cut 12 clones. The desirable and dominant traits can then be back-crossed into the mother/father to keep the "true breed."

Cut clones of known mothers, establish roots, and flower in solo cups. After 2 weeks, you should be able to see differences in the clones and their possible grow styles. If you plan on flowering, only flower 3, and make sure you mark them with labels. Move them to 2 liter containers if you plan to flower solo cup sizes.

It is hard to keep track and find room for male and females with this method, so its best to experiment using colloidal silver (femenized seeds) that way you don't have any "invisible traits." Otherwise you would have double the normal clone cuts, making 3 phenos produce a massive 24 clones to work with, which is wayyyyyy too much lol.

Side note: using feminized seeds as an end result would work but some might hermie out or have problematic inbreeding, but remember with breeding, if you are experienced enough you can still work out these recessive traits to allow a true bred feminized offspring.

Once flowered (unless you've already grown the strain) you can see the different phenos for each 3 solo cup clones. Find the most desirable of the set and pick two female clones that you want to mate (from the clones that remained out of flower that you set aside before)

Time to flower these new selected clones and prepare for pollination. Start dousing one of them in colloidal silver 2 weeks into flower. The pistils will show shortly after on the female, and the one with colloidal silver will have pollen sacks. Once the pollen sacks have an estimated 7-10 day window of being ready they should be placed in a window sill with partial light. Doesn't really matter where. Once those are ready, pollinate the females with them outside of the grow room.

After i pollinate i leave in a dark room for 48 hours, and then place a high powered fan on them for about 1 hour to rid all pollen dust from being dusted up in the tent when i move them back and effecting other plants. You can also rinse them off with distilled water, but pollen still works even after being wet so if any sticks and dries, it will eventually float off to your actual ladies.

2 weeks later pods will form, 4-6 weeks later you should have seeds.

Right now i am using landraces. I have Afghani landrace 100% indica and Malawi landrace 100% sativa seeds.
White widow has been a tough one for me, because of all the known phenos and mixes. Its hard to find the original white widow (which was what i originally bought but my seed company lied and ripped me off.) They claim its the original but it ends up a mix (obviously, or i wouldn't be posting here.)
But white widow comes direct from two land races, there are no other strains in between from what i've read up on.

This next part is the tricky part for me:
Since this particular strain is paired with BB, it is technically already a F1 hybrid. So mating it further would result in an f2 or an f3 which is unreliable and after so much inbreeding, probably a piece of shit. So then if i cut four clones per desirable pheno, i will be looking for the most potent, sturdiest, and fastest growing plants. So every plant i find i would want to either mate with another similar plant or mate back with the mother, that child should then mate with it's technical sister/aunt with the same phenos to produce a sturdy, stocky, fast growing dominant trait. At this point this would be the F3+ category of breeding which means you're plants probably lost most of their potency and they have some inbreeding issues. This is where the land races would come into play, i am planning on mating my two land races until i have a stable pure breed, and considering, that should pretty much be the first generation considering landraces are homogenous.

After this i will have one wwxbb f3 generation and one afghani x malawi f3 generation. Mating these two plants would create a new f1 generation, easy as that!
Here's the step by step:

So for your case i would take 4 clones per plant you have that is a different pheno type.
So for simplicity say there are three phenos

F1 generation -
strong - mate two strongest clones
thick - mate two thickest clones
fast - mate two fastest clones

F2 generation -
strong and thick - mate the offspring from F1
strong and fast - mate the offspring from F1
thick and fast - mate the offspring from F1

F3 generation -
breeding two F2 gens.
strong and thick and fast - 1 strong dominant, thick and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 2 thick dominant, strong and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 3 fast dominant, thick and strong recessive

After this you may select an official true breeding father/mother with all the desirable traits and pair it with another true breeding father/mother selected through this same process.

After you mate your F3 male and your F3 female you will receive an F1 offspring with revived potency and all the desirable traits (with some surprise recessive phenos.)
and from then on you should be able to back-cross it with the true mother/father to make the offspring true. (Because they will still have recessive traits that need weeded out.[lol @ pun])

The best part of all this?
It can all be going on in the background of a proper grow cycle!
:fire: :fire:

In other news I have been very busy with these clones:
image.jpg
Got them transplanted! They are huge!
Time to LST!
image.jpg
Also started some new clones!
image.jpg

Just finished supercropping my clone mother! She is about to flower but she is so big I had to do something.
image.jpg
image.jpg

It's been a busy Saturday tending to my plants.

Get to enjoy an early Christmas gift tonight during this season of trimming ;)
Fan leaf joint! Doused in wax, should be able to filler up with bud in an hour.

Before I knew how to grow people would laugh at my absurdity. Who's laughing now?

Me :D

image.jpg
 
Last edited:

jujment699

Well-Known Member
Clones are rooting after only one day.
These are not ww x bb clones they are my afghani and Malawi clones.
I was surprised. My cloner is pretty awesome tho :D
image.jpg
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
20150810_174126.jpg Dealing with some high ph. Ph pen was off. Anyone got a good way to keep plants from stressing/bring down ph at the same time?
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3476740 Dealing with some high ph. Ph pen was off. Anyone got a good way to keep plants from stressing/bring down ph at the same time?
View attachment 3476740 Dealing with some high ph. Ph pen was off. Anyone got a good way to keep plants from stressing/bring down ph at the same time?
Here is a big spoiler on breeding. @Maat Aatack.
Some others might find it too irrelevant.
Also im super stoned :bigjoint: and kinda wrote it as a teaching thing perspective for all noobies who read this in addition to maat... but i meant to tell it as more of like a personal method lol so don't think this is textbook or anything lol...
Didn't meant to do it that way but again since i am this took forever so now im just adding this instead of changing the whole thing xD
:fire: :fire:
I have already started my processes, so if you would like to keep in contact with me Maat i will let you know what i come up with.

It is actually not too difficult to produce seeds without interrupting the grow! For you it could actually be pretty easy, it was for me the more i researched it!
Cutting clones off of plants and prematurely flowering them will show sex (as you know.) Once pollen pods have begun for clones the males actually survive quite well in window sills regardless of the light cycle.
Pollen can be stored for up to a month at a time.

When you officially flower your mothers, simply paint brushing small bits of pollen on even just one flower could produce hundreds of seeds.
Most people don't like losing "potency" of their mothers, a solution would be to lead you back to the solo cup.

en.seedfinder.eu and other websites have great info about phenotypes and which apply. If there happens to be more than one pheno, all you have to do is cut 4 clones per pheno (that way you can see f1, f2, and f3 generation mixes) so if it has 3 possible phenos, you should cut 12 clones. The desirable and dominant traits can then be back-crossed into the mother/father to keep the "true breed."

Cut clones of known mothers, establish roots, and flower in solo cups. After 2 weeks, you should be able to see differences in the clones and their possible grow styles. If you plan on flowering, only flower 3, and make sure you mark them with labels. Move them to 2 liter containers if you plan to flower solo cup sizes.

It is hard to keep track and find room for male and females with this method, so its best to experiment using colloidal silver (femenized seeds) that way you don't have any "invisible traits." Otherwise you would have double the normal clone cuts, making 3 phenos produce a massive 24 clones to work with, which is wayyyyyy too much lol.

Side note: using feminized seeds as an end result would work but some might hermie out or have problematic inbreeding, but remember with breeding, if you are experienced enough you can still work out these recessive traits to allow a true bred feminized offspring.

Once flowered (unless you've already grown the strain) you can see the different phenos for each 3 solo cup clones. Find the most desirable of the set and pick two female clones that you want to mate (from the clones that remained out of flower that you set aside before)

Time to flower these new selected clones and prepare for pollination. Start dousing one of them in colloidal silver 2 weeks into flower. The pistils will show shortly after on the female, and the one with colloidal silver will have pollen sacks. Once the pollen sacks have an estimated 7-10 day window of being ready they should be placed in a window sill with partial light. Doesn't really matter where. Once those are ready, pollinate the females with them outside of the grow room.

After i pollinate i leave in a dark room for 48 hours, and then place a high powered fan on them for about 1 hour to rid all pollen dust from being dusted up in the tent when i move them back and effecting other plants. You can also rinse them off with distilled water, but pollen still works even after being wet so if any sticks and dries, it will eventually float off to your actual ladies.

2 weeks later pods will form, 4-6 weeks later you should have seeds.

Right now i am using landraces. I have Afghani landrace 100% indica and Malawi landrace 100% sativa seeds.
White widow has been a tough one for me, because of all the known phenos and mixes. Its hard to find the original white widow (which was what i originally bought but my seed company lied and ripped me off.) They claim its the original but it ends up a mix (obviously, or i wouldn't be posting here.)
But white widow comes direct from two land races, there are no other strains in between from what i've read up on.

This next part is the tricky part for me:
Since this particular strain is paired with BB, it is technically already a F1 hybrid. So mating it further would result in an f2 or an f3 which is unreliable and after so much inbreeding, probably a piece of shit. So then if i cut four clones per desirable pheno, i will be looking for the most potent, sturdiest, and fastest growing plants. So every plant i find i would want to either mate with another similar plant or mate back with the mother, that child should then mate with it's technical sister/aunt with the same phenos to produce a sturdy, stocky, fast growing dominant trait. At this point this would be the F3+ category of breeding which means you're plants probably lost most of their potency and they have some inbreeding issues. This is where the land races would come into play, i am planning on mating my two land races until i have a stable pure breed, and considering, that should pretty much be the first generation considering landraces are homogenous.

After this i will have one wwxbb f3 generation and one afghani x malawi f3 generation. Mating these two plants would create a new f1 generation, easy as that!
Here's the step by step:

So for your case i would take 4 clones per plant you have that is a different pheno type.
So for simplicity say there are three phenos

F1 generation -
strong - mate two strongest clones
thick - mate two thickest clones
fast - mate two fastest clones

F2 generation -
strong and thick - mate the offspring from F1
strong and fast - mate the offspring from F1
thick and fast - mate the offspring from F1

F3 generation -
breeding two F2 gens.
strong and thick and fast - 1 strong dominant, thick and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 2 thick dominant, strong and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 3 fast dominant, thick and strong recessive

After this you may select an official true breeding father/mother with all the desirable traits and pair it with another true breeding father/mother selected through this same process.

After you mate your F3 male and your F3 female you will receive an F1 offspring with revived potency and all the desirable traits (with some surprise recessive phenos.)
and from then on you should be able to back-cross it with the true mother/father to make the offspring true. (Because they will still have recessive traits that need weeded out.[lol @ pun])

The best part of all this?
It can all be going on in the background of a proper grow cycle!
:fire: :fire:

In other news I have been very busy with these clones:
View attachment 3475666
Got them transplanted! They are huge!
Time to LST!
View attachment 3475670
Also started some new clones!
View attachment 3475671

Just finished supercropping my clone mother! She is about to flower but she is so big I had to do something.
View attachment 3475665
View attachment 3475664

It's been a busy Saturday tending to my plants.

Get to enjoy an early Christmas gift tonight during this season of trimming ;)
Fan leaf joint! Doused in wax, should be able to filler up with bud in an hour.

Before I knew how to grow people would laugh at my absurdity. Who's laughing now?

Me :D

View attachment 3475673
Have you done this before? That's awesome! I'm really baked right now.bongsmilie
 

jujment699

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3476740 Dealing with some high ph. Ph pen was off. Anyone got a good way to keep plants from stressing/bring down ph at the same time?
View attachment 3476740 Dealing with some high ph. Ph pen was off. Anyone got a good way to keep plants from stressing/bring down ph at the same time?
Here is a big spoiler on breeding. @Maat Aatack.
Some others might find it too irrelevant.
Also im super stoned :bigjoint: and kinda wrote it as a teaching thing perspective for all noobies who read this in addition to maat... but i meant to tell it as more of like a personal method lol so don't think this is textbook or anything lol...
Didn't meant to do it that way but again since i am this took forever so now im just adding this instead of changing the whole thing xD
:fire: :fire:
I have already started my processes, so if you would like to keep in contact with me Maat i will let you know what i come up with.

It is actually not too difficult to produce seeds without interrupting the grow! For you it could actually be pretty easy, it was for me the more i researched it!
Cutting clones off of plants and prematurely flowering them will show sex (as you know.) Once pollen pods have begun for clones the males actually survive quite well in window sills regardless of the light cycle.
Pollen can be stored for up to a month at a time.

When you officially flower your mothers, simply paint brushing small bits of pollen on even just one flower could produce hundreds of seeds.
Most people don't like losing "potency" of their mothers, a solution would be to lead you back to the solo cup.

en.seedfinder.eu and other websites have great info about phenotypes and which apply. If there happens to be more than one pheno, all you have to do is cut 4 clones per pheno (that way you can see f1, f2, and f3 generation mixes) so if it has 3 possible phenos, you should cut 12 clones. The desirable and dominant traits can then be back-crossed into the mother/father to keep the "true breed."

Cut clones of known mothers, establish roots, and flower in solo cups. After 2 weeks, you should be able to see differences in the clones and their possible grow styles. If you plan on flowering, only flower 3, and make sure you mark them with labels. Move them to 2 liter containers if you plan to flower solo cup sizes.

It is hard to keep track and find room for male and females with this method, so its best to experiment using colloidal silver (femenized seeds) that way you don't have any "invisible traits." Otherwise you would have double the normal clone cuts, making 3 phenos produce a massive 24 clones to work with, which is wayyyyyy too much lol.

Side note: using feminized seeds as an end result would work but some might hermie out or have problematic inbreeding, but remember with breeding, if you are experienced enough you can still work out these recessive traits to allow a true bred feminized offspring.

Once flowered (unless you've already grown the strain) you can see the different phenos for each 3 solo cup clones. Find the most desirable of the set and pick two female clones that you want to mate (from the clones that remained out of flower that you set aside before)

Time to flower these new selected clones and prepare for pollination. Start dousing one of them in colloidal silver 2 weeks into flower. The pistils will show shortly after on the female, and the one with colloidal silver will have pollen sacks. Once the pollen sacks have an estimated 7-10 day window of being ready they should be placed in a window sill with partial light. Doesn't really matter where. Once those are ready, pollinate the females with them outside of the grow room.

After i pollinate i leave in a dark room for 48 hours, and then place a high powered fan on them for about 1 hour to rid all pollen dust from being dusted up in the tent when i move them back and effecting other plants. You can also rinse them off with distilled water, but pollen still works even after being wet so if any sticks and dries, it will eventually float off to your actual ladies.

2 weeks later pods will form, 4-6 weeks later you should have seeds.

Right now i am using landraces. I have Afghani landrace 100% indica and Malawi landrace 100% sativa seeds.
White widow has been a tough one for me, because of all the known phenos and mixes. Its hard to find the original white widow (which was what i originally bought but my seed company lied and ripped me off.) They claim its the original but it ends up a mix (obviously, or i wouldn't be posting here.)
But white widow comes direct from two land races, there are no other strains in between from what i've read up on.

This next part is the tricky part for me:
Since this particular strain is paired with BB, it is technically already a F1 hybrid. So mating it further would result in an f2 or an f3 which is unreliable and after so much inbreeding, probably a piece of shit. So then if i cut four clones per desirable pheno, i will be looking for the most potent, sturdiest, and fastest growing plants. So every plant i find i would want to either mate with another similar plant or mate back with the mother, that child should then mate with it's technical sister/aunt with the same phenos to produce a sturdy, stocky, fast growing dominant trait. At this point this would be the F3+ category of breeding which means you're plants probably lost most of their potency and they have some inbreeding issues. This is where the land races would come into play, i am planning on mating my two land races until i have a stable pure breed, and considering, that should pretty much be the first generation considering landraces are homogenous.

After this i will have one wwxbb f3 generation and one afghani x malawi f3 generation. Mating these two plants would create a new f1 generation, easy as that!
Here's the step by step:

So for your case i would take 4 clones per plant you have that is a different pheno type.
So for simplicity say there are three phenos

F1 generation -
strong - mate two strongest clones
thick - mate two thickest clones
fast - mate two fastest clones

F2 generation -
strong and thick - mate the offspring from F1
strong and fast - mate the offspring from F1
thick and fast - mate the offspring from F1

F3 generation -
breeding two F2 gens.
strong and thick and fast - 1 strong dominant, thick and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 2 thick dominant, strong and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 3 fast dominant, thick and strong recessive

After this you may select an official true breeding father/mother with all the desirable traits and pair it with another true breeding father/mother selected through this same process.

After you mate your F3 male and your F3 female you will receive an F1 offspring with revived potency and all the desirable traits (with some surprise recessive phenos.)
and from then on you should be able to back-cross it with the true mother/father to make the offspring true. (Because they will still have recessive traits that need weeded out.[lol @ pun])

The best part of all this?
It can all be going on in the background of a proper grow cycle!
:fire: :fire:

In other news I have been very busy with these clones:
View attachment 3475666
Got them transplanted! They are huge!
Time to LST!
View attachment 3475670
Also started some new clones!
View attachment 3475671

Just finished supercropping my clone mother! She is about to flower but she is so big I had to do something.
View attachment 3475665
View attachment 3475664

It's been a busy Saturday tending to my plants.

Get to enjoy an early Christmas gift tonight during this season of trimming ;)
Fan leaf joint! Doused in wax, should be able to filler up with bud in an hour.

Before I knew how to grow people would laugh at my absurdity. Who's laughing now?

Me :D

View attachment 3475673
Have you done this before? That's awesome! I'm really baked right now.bongsmilie
Yes i have. I am currently in the process of doing it right now. I already have the landraces mass cloning going right now.

Flush it with 6.5-6.8 ph water. 1gallon of water per gallon pot. So 3 gal = 3 gal of water. If your pH is too high, like 8-9 then you are going to want to flush with 3 gals per gallon pot. So 3 gal pot = 9 gal of water. Then 1 hour after flush, give 6.5 water with no nutes. Next watering give regular 6.5 water about a 1/2 gallon per gallon pot, then you should be able to feed it again a day or two later, depending on how fast they dry up.

I am also very high, just turned this big huge sandbox of keif
image.jpeg

Into this delicious pin head dab (that is my pinkie in the photo)
image (1).jpeg

It measured about 800% concentrate of THC after 8 first round quick washes.
image (2).jpeg
I can say i am certainly off my rocker
:bigjoint::bigjoint::lol::o:o:o:sleep::sleep::sleep::sleep:
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
Yes i have. I am currently in the process of doing it right now. I already have the landraces mass cloning going right now.

Flush it with 6.5-6.8 ph water. 1gallon of water per gallon pot. So 3 gal = 3 gal of water. If your pH is too high, like 8-9 then you are going to want to flush with 3 gals per gallon pot. So 3 gal pot = 9 gal of water. Then 1 hour after flush, give 6.5 water with no nutes. Next watering give regular 6.5 water about a 1/2 gallon per gallon pot, then you should be able to feed it again a day or two later, depending on how fast they dry up.

I am also very high, just turned this big huge sandbox of keif
View attachment 3476955

Into this delicious pin head dab (that is my pinkie in the photo)
View attachment 3476956

It measured about 800% concentrate of THC after 8 first round quick washes.
View attachment 3476957
I can say i am certainly off my rocker
:bigjoint::bigjoint::lol::o:o:o:sleep::sleep::sleep::sleep:
Hell yeah. I'm sure I'll get them back to normal. I just hope it won't hurt my yield to much. I did use some foliar to make up for the lockout.
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
Here is a big spoiler on breeding. @Maat Aatack.
Some others might find it too irrelevant.
Also im super stoned :bigjoint: and kinda wrote it as a teaching thing perspective for all noobies who read this in addition to maat... but i meant to tell it as more of like a personal method lol so don't think this is textbook or anything lol...
Didn't meant to do it that way but again since i am this took forever so now im just adding this instead of changing the whole thing xD
:fire: :fire:
I have already started my processes, so if you would like to keep in contact with me Maat i will let you know what i come up with.

It is actually not too difficult to produce seeds without interrupting the grow! For you it could actually be pretty easy, it was for me the more i researched it!
Cutting clones off of plants and prematurely flowering them will show sex (as you know.) Once pollen pods have begun for clones the males actually survive quite well in window sills regardless of the light cycle.
Pollen can be stored for up to a month at a time.

When you officially flower your mothers, simply paint brushing small bits of pollen on even just one flower could produce hundreds of seeds.
Most people don't like losing "potency" of their mothers, a solution would be to lead you back to the solo cup.

en.seedfinder.eu and other websites have great info about phenotypes and which apply. If there happens to be more than one pheno, all you have to do is cut 4 clones per pheno (that way you can see f1, f2, and f3 generation mixes) so if it has 3 possible phenos, you should cut 12 clones. The desirable and dominant traits can then be back-crossed into the mother/father to keep the "true breed."

Cut clones of known mothers, establish roots, and flower in solo cups. After 2 weeks, you should be able to see differences in the clones and their possible grow styles. If you plan on flowering, only flower 3, and make sure you mark them with labels. Move them to 2 liter containers if you plan to flower solo cup sizes.

It is hard to keep track and find room for male and females with this method, so its best to experiment using colloidal silver (femenized seeds) that way you don't have any "invisible traits." Otherwise you would have double the normal clone cuts, making 3 phenos produce a massive 24 clones to work with, which is wayyyyyy too much lol.

Side note: using feminized seeds as an end result would work but some might hermie out or have problematic inbreeding, but remember with breeding, if you are experienced enough you can still work out these recessive traits to allow a true bred feminized offspring.

Once flowered (unless you've already grown the strain) you can see the different phenos for each 3 solo cup clones. Find the most desirable of the set and pick two female clones that you want to mate (from the clones that remained out of flower that you set aside before)

Time to flower these new selected clones and prepare for pollination. Start dousing one of them in colloidal silver 2 weeks into flower. The pistils will show shortly after on the female, and the one with colloidal silver will have pollen sacks. Once the pollen sacks have an estimated 7-10 day window of being ready they should be placed in a window sill with partial light. Doesn't really matter where. Once those are ready, pollinate the females with them outside of the grow room.

After i pollinate i leave in a dark room for 48 hours, and then place a high powered fan on them for about 1 hour to rid all pollen dust from being dusted up in the tent when i move them back and effecting other plants. You can also rinse them off with distilled water, but pollen still works even after being wet so if any sticks and dries, it will eventually float off to your actual ladies.

2 weeks later pods will form, 4-6 weeks later you should have seeds.

Right now i am using landraces. I have Afghani landrace 100% indica and Malawi landrace 100% sativa seeds.
White widow has been a tough one for me, because of all the known phenos and mixes. Its hard to find the original white widow (which was what i originally bought but my seed company lied and ripped me off.) They claim its the original but it ends up a mix (obviously, or i wouldn't be posting here.)
But white widow comes direct from two land races, there are no other strains in between from what i've read up on.

This next part is the tricky part for me:
Since this particular strain is paired with BB, it is technically already a F1 hybrid. So mating it further would result in an f2 or an f3 which is unreliable and after so much inbreeding, probably a piece of shit. So then if i cut four clones per desirable pheno, i will be looking for the most potent, sturdiest, and fastest growing plants. So every plant i find i would want to either mate with another similar plant or mate back with the mother, that child should then mate with it's technical sister/aunt with the same phenos to produce a sturdy, stocky, fast growing dominant trait. At this point this would be the F3+ category of breeding which means you're plants probably lost most of their potency and they have some inbreeding issues. This is where the land races would come into play, i am planning on mating my two land races until i have a stable pure breed, and considering, that should pretty much be the first generation considering landraces are homogenous.

After this i will have one wwxbb f3 generation and one afghani x malawi f3 generation. Mating these two plants would create a new f1 generation, easy as that!
Here's the step by step:

So for your case i would take 4 clones per plant you have that is a different pheno type.
So for simplicity say there are three phenos

F1 generation -
strong - mate two strongest clones
thick - mate two thickest clones
fast - mate two fastest clones

F2 generation -
strong and thick - mate the offspring from F1
strong and fast - mate the offspring from F1
thick and fast - mate the offspring from F1

F3 generation -
breeding two F2 gens.
strong and thick and fast - 1 strong dominant, thick and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 2 thick dominant, strong and fast recessive

strong and thick and fast - 3 fast dominant, thick and strong recessive

After this you may select an official true breeding father/mother with all the desirable traits and pair it with another true breeding father/mother selected through this same process.

After you mate your F3 male and your F3 female you will receive an F1 offspring with revived potency and all the desirable traits (with some surprise recessive phenos.)
and from then on you should be able to back-cross it with the true mother/father to make the offspring true. (Because they will still have recessive traits that need weeded out.[lol @ pun])

The best part of all this?
It can all be going on in the background of a proper grow cycle!
:fire: :fire:

In other news I have been very busy with these clones:
View attachment 3475666
Got them transplanted! They are huge!
Time to LST!
View attachment 3475670
Also started some new clones!
View attachment 3475671

Just finished supercropping my clone mother! She is about to flower but she is so big I had to do something.
View attachment 3475665
View attachment 3475664

It's been a busy Saturday tending to my plants.

Get to enjoy an early Christmas gift tonight during this season of trimming ;)
Fan leaf joint! Doused in wax, should be able to filler up with bud in an hour.

Before I knew how to grow people would laugh at my absurdity. Who's laughing now?

Me :D

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I am moving into a very large facility in spring with 40000 sqft warehouse on 6 acres and was thinking about breeding. The only thing that got me was the amount of inbreeding it takes to get your new strain to be higher quality. Egyptian Sinai was something I was considering messing with since I will be in desert climate of colorado.
 

Maat Aatack

Well-Known Member
Yes i have. I am currently in the process of doing it right now. I already have the landraces mass cloning going right now.

Flush it with 6.5-6.8 ph water. 1gallon of water per gallon pot. So 3 gal = 3 gal of water. If your pH is too high, like 8-9 then you are going to want to flush with 3 gals per gallon pot. So 3 gal pot = 9 gal of water. Then 1 hour after flush, give 6.5 water with no nutes. Next watering give regular 6.5 water about a 1/2 gallon per gallon pot, then you should be able to feed it again a day or two later, depending on how fast they dry up.

I am also very high, just turned this big huge sandbox of keif
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Into this delicious pin head dab (that is my pinkie in the photo)
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It measured about 800% concentrate of THC after 8 first round quick washes.
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I can say i am certainly off my rocker
:bigjoint::bigjoint::lol::o:o:o:sleep::sleep::sleep::sleep:
How does something get to be 800%?
 

jujment699

Well-Known Member
How does something get to be 800%?
Oops thats a typo... i was baked. 80%. Split that up into a 8 rounds of quick wash hash and the chemistry test measured about 80% according to my chart. You can buy test kits for like 50$.
But yeah it was pretty intense.

Also, maat did you check my breeding post? :shock:
 

hippies_child

Well-Known Member
Not posted for a few weeks didn't want to jinx myself.
I'm at day 70 of flower, maat I took your advice and let them go those extra 3 weeks....so glad I did thanks for the advice. Using my loupe i can see the triches are slowly turning Amber bout 10%. I turned lights off yesturday so their 24 hrs dark period will have finished by dinner time then it's time for the chop.mk ultra is in the middle, smelling spicy ;-).
I have been flushing with phd water for two weeks now so I think I'm ready.
 

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Maat Aatack

Well-Known Member
Oops thats a typo... i was baked. 80%. Split that up into a 8 rounds of quick wash hash and the chemistry test measured about 80% according to my chart. You can buy test kits for like 50$.
But yeah it was pretty intense.

Also, maat did you check my breeding post? :shock:
Ah ha! Yes 80% makes a lot more sense. I've not tried the concentrate yet.
Yes I did see that post. Very informative, but admittedly a bit over my head. I wonder is there any safe way to get a female plant to revert to male?? Don't know for what application, just curious.
 

Maat Aatack

Well-Known Member
Not posted for a few weeks didn't want to jinx myself.
I'm at day 70 of flower, maat I took your advice and let them go those extra 3 weeks....so glad I did thanks for the advice. Using my loupe i can see the triches are slowly turning Amber bout 10%. I turned lights off yesturday so their 24 hrs dark period will have finished by dinner time then it's time for the chop.mk ultra is in the middle, smelling spicy ;-).
I have been flushing with phd water for two weeks now so I think I'm ready.
Excellent! So, counting from the onset of flowers, how many days of bloom does this put your wwxbb?
 

jujment699

Well-Known Member
I am moving into a very large facility in spring with 40000 sqft warehouse on 6 acres and was thinking about breeding. The only thing that got me was the amount of inbreeding it takes to get your new strain to be higher quality. Egyptian Sinai was something I was considering messing with since I will be in desert climate of colorado.
The Sinai is awesome. I praise its glory. Some of my favorite strains have sinai origins, however i wouldn't recommend it as a starter strain... if you check this link you will see the origins are partially sativa and indica, so it is already a hybrid. This is not very good because then your landrace is already quipped with F1 hybrid vigor, which is no good because you have to manually breed out what you don't want (versus just selecting a race that already comes with it all in stock)

Hindu Kush is usually the best strain to start breeding with. It is 100% indica. You can then find another 100% indica landrace, a 100% sativa landrace, or just a normal everyday strain (such as wwxbb) and mate it with a single 100% landrace. That way you don't have to work out both sativa traits and indica traits that are undesirable... You will have an unstable breed if you do. It is better to add traits rather than try to breed them out, because dominant traits will always take over, so it is as simple as finding out the dominant traits.

I am happy to see someone interest in breeding like i am. I have been trying really hard to find others who have as much experience or would like to, since it is such an uncommon thing to breed for most home growers.

If you are going to be in that warehouse that is a lot of awesome room to work with, i am extremely jealous... I would deck that place out with HID air cooled lights, industrial fans, self watering soil system. I have been spending a lot of time planning a design for a warehouse similar to yours with a floor made entirely of a few feet of dirt. Using organic compounds and certain nutes and adding certain bacteria you can make the soil self sufficient with little to no feeding, only problem is roots, but it can be easily surpassed.


Like i said I am already currently breeding. People worry that they are going to get their plants pollinated... but i don't see why? Once the males are 1/2 the way through development you can take them literally almost anywhere, even to a desk light that is on all the time and they will finish growing their sacks and you can collect the pollen then, outside of your tent.
 
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jujment699

Well-Known Member
Ah ha! Yes 80% makes a lot more sense. I've not tried the concentrate yet.
Yes I did see that post. Very informative, but admittedly a bit over my head. I wonder is there any safe way to get a female plant to revert to male?? Don't know for what application, just curious.
I don't know if "safe" rules out the aforementioned colloidal silver? But you can cause it to produce male pollen sacks using it. The offspring will be femenised though unless you apply some sort of intense stress to force it to hermie, then you can breed out the hermie traits. Long process but possible if you're trying to avoid pollination.
 

Maat Aatack

Well-Known Member
I don't know if "safe" rules out the aforementioned colloidal silver? But you can cause it to produce male pollen sacks using it. The offspring will be femenised though unless you apply some sort of intense stress to force it to hermie, then you can breed out the hermie traits. Long process but possible if you're trying to avoid pollination.
Easier to find regular seeds I guess.
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
The Sinai is awesome. I praise its glory. Some of my favorite strains have sinai origins, however i wouldn't recommend it as a starter strain... if you check this link you will see the origins are partially sativa and indica, so it is already a hybrid. This is not very good because then your landrace is already quipped with F1 hybrid vigor, which is no good because you have to manually breed out what you don't want (versus just selecting a race that already comes with it all in stock)

Hindu Kush is usually the best strain to start breeding with. It is 100% indica. You can then find another 100% indica landrace, a 100% sativa landrace, or just a normal everyday strain (such as wwxbb) and mate it with a single 100% landrace. That way you don't have to work out both sativa traits and indica traits that are undesirable... You will have an unstable breed if you do. It is better to add traits rather than try to breed them out, because dominant traits will always take over, so it is as simple as finding out the dominant traits.

I am happy to see someone interest in breeding like i am. I have been trying really hard to find others who have as much experience or would like to, since it is such an uncommon thing to breed for most home growers.

If you are going to be in that warehouse that is a lot of awesome room to work with, i am extremely jealous... I would deck that place out with HID air cooled lights, industrial fans, self watering soil system. I have been spending a lot of time planning a design for a warehouse similar to yours with a floor made entirely of a few feet of dirt. Using organic compounds and certain nutes and adding certain bacteria you can make the soil self sufficient with little to no feeding, only problem is roots, but it can be easily surpassed.


Like i said I am already currently breeding. People worry that they are going to get their plants pollinated... but i don't see why? Once the males are 1/2 the way through development you can take them literally almost anywhere, even to a desk light that is on all the time and they will finish growing their sacks and you can collect the pollen then, outside of your tent.
It isn't the nicest warehouse but it will do the trick. I'm currently switching the roof in the loft to greenhouse panels and the rest of the warehouse will be lights. I'm starting with 300 plants. I haven't picked out strains yet. I need high yield erstwhile that do well with heat. The warehouse is ventilated well but I don't have the money for central air conditioning quite yet. I was reading a article about how trichomes are a defense against heat. The cannabis plant will produce more in high heat depending on genetics. They tested several different plants in high heat, 95 day 75 at night I believe and a lower temp 75 to 60s at night. Most plants produced way more thc in high heat. If you have any ideas on geneticsome let me know. I'm about to start from seed to pick mothers.
 

jujment699

Well-Known Member
It isn't the nicest warehouse but it will do the trick. I'm currently switching the roof in the loft to greenhouse panels and the rest of the warehouse will be lights. I'm starting with 300 plants. I haven't picked out strains yet. I need high yield erstwhile that do well with heat. The warehouse is ventilated well but I don't have the money for central air conditioning quite yet. I was reading a article about how trichomes are a defense against heat. The cannabis plant will produce more in high heat depending on genetics. They tested several different plants in high heat, 95 day 75 at night I believe and a lower temp 75 to 60s at night. Most plants produced way more thc in high heat. If you have any ideas on geneticsome let me know. I'm about to start from seed to pick mothers.
Man if you are going to rely on heat you are going to be spending a lot of money on CO2. Marijuana plants can only absorb enough energy and process it as fast as it can take in carbon dioxide. Since you are using a warehouse you would probably want to create a negative pressure airspace. (Lots of exhaust fans but no air inlets) then fill the room with co2, otherwise I feel you will just be toasting your plants. Colorado doesn't naturally have high co2, especially the part you are in

Finding a landrace that does well in heat does help, you are right, I would just make sure it is not a hybrid. That is an awful headache xD
300 plants would be awesome!! Are you just going to grow traditional with manual feeding and watering? Or do you have SCROG rigs? I think it's much more conservative to have multiple colas on all the plants even if it takes slightly longer. The return is awesome.

I'm sure you have enough room to try many methods of growing... Damn, there's that jealousy again xD
 

The303Yeti

Well-Known Member
Man if you are going to rely on heat you are going to be spending a lot of money on CO2. Marijuana plants can only absorb enough energy and process it as fast as it can take in carbon dioxide. Since you are using a warehouse you would probably want to create a negative pressure airspace. (Lots of exhaust fans but no air inlets) then fill the room with co2, otherwise I feel you will just be toasting your plants. Colorado doesn't naturally have high co2, especially the part you are in

Finding a landrace that does well in heat does help, you are right, I would just make sure it is not a hybrid. That is an awful headache xD
300 plants would be awesome!! Are you just going to grow traditional with manual feeding and watering? Or do you have SCROG rigs? I think it's much more conservative to have multiple colas on all the plants even if it takes slightly longer. The return is awesome.

I'm sure you have enough room to try many methods of growing... Damn, there's that jealousy again xD
I definitely will have a SCROG setup, juse not all. Way to much work with that amount. I'm going to try and keep fans on low during the night and pump co2 at the same time. The warehouse has 4 rooms averaging 500 square ft each. So I might just start with those until I have more recources. Easier to control the climate.
 
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jujment699

Well-Known Member
Been having some N tox. @Maat Aatack i looked through a few pages and saw you said that your plants were rabid beasts when it came to nutes... i have just barely touched mine and i am getting N tox... wtf. I did an N P K test and N was off the charts (Crazy thing is i didn't even feed any veg nutes because i never vegged long enough.) Used 1/4 str bloom nutes (2-8-4) and it flipped out. Soil doesn't have any time release nutes, it is organic custom FFOF/HF/PROMIX/Pearlite.

Just flushed and now watering with RO water until theres no new N tox, my plants are completely stunted SMFH. :wall::wall::wall::wall::wall::wall:

Any tips?

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Major claws.

4 weeks of flower and they are pitiful. That pisses me off because I had such a solid foundation. I fucked this over because of shifting to RO water. i have no experience with adding nutes manually from day one (like Calmg) and since my tap is 8.9 ph and 1100 ppms from faucet... (Ikr horrible) my previous grows already had plenty of minerals and i would just pH my water. I figured i could get a lot more out of my plants than using crappy tap water but now I'm having a rough time with nute values because my plants don't show reactions for days since they are soil. Thing is i can't water with my tap since they are not even ready for 1000 ppms yet, and with my last grows i saw lots of damage on them because of this :/

But not all is lost. What anyone's recommendation for the fastest recovery other than flushing? Idk how I'm supposed to feed a plant enough P and K without overloading it with nitro... If my solution is 1/4 str (2-8-4) they are going to become deficient. Didn't think 2 was that high but fine.... Dumbass plants :p ...
 
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Maat Aatack

Well-Known Member
Been having some N tox. @Maat Aatack i looked through a few pages and saw you said that your plants were rabid beasts when it came to nutes... i have just barely touched mine and i am getting N tox... wtf. I did an N P K test and N was off the charts (Crazy thing is i didn't even feed any veg nutes because i never vegged long enough.) Used 1/4 str bloom nutes (2-8-4) and it flipped out. Soil doesn't have any time release nutes, it is organic custom FFOF/HF/PROMIX/Pearlite.

Just flushed and now watering with RO water until theres no new N tox, my plants are completely stunted SMFH. :wall::wall::wall::wall::wall::wall:

Any tips?

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Major claws.

4 weeks of flower and they are pitiful. That pisses me off because I had such a solid foundation. I fucked this over because this is my first grow since shifting to RO water (since my tap is 8.9 ph and 1100 ppms from faucet... Ikr horrible) and I'm having a rough time with nute values because my plants don't show reactions for days since they are soil.

But not all is lost. What anyone's recommendation for the fastest recovery other than flushing? Idk how I'm supposed to feed a plant enough P and K without overloading it with nitro... If my solution is 1/4 str (2-8-4) they are going to become deficient. Didn't think 2 was that high but fine.... Dumbass plants :p ...
K so I was feeding the heck out of my plants. Every other watering instead of every 2 waterings. They showed some stresses all the way through, but all i did when I suspected a pH or nute tox issue is I flushed, and then fed a general purpose schedule. Must say for 4 weeks in, they are looking a bit behind. What lighting and air systems do you have working?
 
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