Vacuum Purge Questions and new OIl Bubbler pics

yeah I hear ya. wax is in demand right now.... those people just need to be educated thats all.

also, my bad, my pictures are all out of order, and it will start waxing from the middle, not from the edges like freezing water would. confused myself there for a sec. it usually starts in 1 spot... then spreads from there like some sort of infection haha. you can see I was at around 115F or so the whole time.. I think if you jumped up the heat and bubbled the oil a bit faster/more, it would dry/wax faster.

me personally, it takes 2 or 3 days minimum to wax up. I have a feeling me and you are the same. if youre starting to see it wax in 1 tiny section.. youre making progress and not much longer to go.

these other guys get bone dry wax in anywhere from 4-12 hours... I dont know haha, I think its all starting material.

is it for sure not moving... or is it just moving very very very very very slowly? sometimes its very hard to tell. by the sounds of it though youre at the right temp. dont turn it up too high or you can "melt" the oil and make it impossible to wax.. it will be goooo foreverrrrrr. just give it another day or so and it should be fully dried. got any pics?

I can get it to wax in 4 to 8 hours just heat purging but it's not purged I think I'm gonna try a little of both see if it does it quicker that way I heat purged some that is waiting to go in the chamber and its hard /firm just still has tane a nice honeycomb cookie

I am using older material going to turn my whole next crop into oil I love it

How do I load a pic from my phone

I send mine to my email, go into my email on computer, save it, and upload it on imageshack.us, then copy and paste the "forum code" link..... im using an old flip phone still though, if you have an Iphone im sure theres an easier way but ive never used one so wouldnt know!!!

Is it best to run my pump to full vac, turn pump off and hold vac for hours? Or to let my pump continuosly run at full vac for an extended amount of time? Ive been only running the pump to full vac and wonder if im hindering the process? Thanks!

I purge using a mityvac and found out 2 things worth noting:
1) you need to release the pressure every so often (like every 30mins or so) to get rid of the excess butane you are trying to purge
2) use a heating pad- I wrap a cheap heating pad around my jar which seems to get up to the perfect temp for honeycomb wax on high-an inexpensive vac oven that can never burn your oil

thebay420 said:

Is it best to run my pump to full vac, turn pump off and hold vac for hours? Or to let my pump continuosly run at full vac for an extended amount of time? Ive been only running the pump to full vac and wonder if im hindering the process? Thanks!

Click to expand...

What are you trying to make?

Hey guys, long time reader first time poster.

I have seen a lot of videos and discussion (including in this thread) that many folks keep the vacuum pump going for several hours, some as long as 24.

I just got a pump yesterday and i'm about to order a lid/hardware/chamber that i see on ebay. The seller warns that once the needle stops moving on the guage, you should close the check valve and turn off the pump because you can cause the chamber to implode otherwise. He has one negative comment about implosion from someone who kept vacuuming, and the rest positive feedback.

So now i'm really confused because i see so many leaving their pump running, but this guy saying not to, and his hardware seems to be the best quality of the ones i can find on ebay. Can someone please advise here?

Thanks

The pump can never put more than 14.7 psi pressure on the lid at sea level, under standard conditions, so it can't stress the lid anymore than it is already stressed at full vacuum. It is just removing the weight of the atmosphere, not compressing anything.

The real issue is that the lid is too thin to withstand 14.7 psi without deflecting and adding heat lowers its mechanical properties, so it deflects even more.

When you flex an acrylic or polycarbonate lid back and forth like an oil can long enough, it develops stress cracks from high cyclic fatigue and eventually fails, usually under vacuum in an implosion.

Get a thicker lid.

Fadedawg said:

The pump can never put more than 14.7 psi pressure on the lid at sea level, under standard conditions, so it can't stress the lid anymore than it is already stressed at full vacuum. It is just removing the weight of the atmosphere, not compressing anything.

The real issue is that the lid is too thin to withstand 14.7 psi without deflecting and adding heat lowers its mechanical properties, so it deflects even more.

When you flex an acrylic or polycarbonate lid back and forth like an oil can long enough, it develops stress cracks from high cyclic fatigue and eventually fails, usually under vacuum in an implosion.

Get a thicker lid.

Click to expand...

I was more questioning the integrity of the pot than the lid. I've seen videos of pots imploding, but never a lid.

Short version: can/should one continue vacuuming even when absolute vacuum is achieved, or should one just cut off the pump and hold the already negatively pressurized vacuum as is?