Vacuum Purge Questions and new OIl Bubbler pics

So I am looking to vacuum purge by BHO. I just got a hand pump and attempted to use a mason jar however I was having trouble reach over 24Hg and more so having problems with keeping the BHO 'runny' while hand pumping. I saw maybe 1-2 bubbles on my first run but no honey comb or expansion at all(pic of it at bottom or final product), my second batch I purged it for about 1-3 min over steam (after liquid butane evap'd) after I put the dish a convection oven at about 160 for about 1-2 min after, I wnet to scrape and it was dry waxy budder..(no idea why I did both) I smeared what I could on the parchet paper and vacced it in a warm water bath just like the other and nothign noticeable happened. it just stayed very waxy and turned to power balls after final scrape.

So we are upgradeing to a 2.5 CFM Vacuum Pump form harbor freight, and will pick some glass desiccator form amazon. I still need tips on how to transfer to parchment paper, when do I transfer, and whats the best way to keep the oil gooey for butane to escape? Any Vac info Greatly appreciated thanks guys.

BTW:Using about 7-9 G's of product and got about 1 g oil give or take, using a glass clinder extractor.for first and about 4-5g's for second.

Thank you SO MUCH, her are some pics

<oil I got from the first fail vac although still shatter.

transfer to parchment should happen as soon as the butane has boiled off at room temp (amber goo). you shouldn't really have to heat it, but if you do, heat it to 125F either by using a skillet or a water tray heated on low. use razor blades to scrape off pyrex and transfer to parchment.

once all is transfered to parchment cool the oil so it becomes a little harder. this way you can fold the oil on top of itself and pull the edges of parchment quickly and it will create a nice wad of oil in the center of your parchment. it'll take some practice doing the latter.

at this point you want to get it stable at room temp which means using your vac pump to get to 29 Hg watching the oil expand into a porous sponge. you'll want to release pressure and re vac every 20 mins until the expanded oil "sponge" no longer shrinks or grows. at this point it is stable at room temp.

now you wanna kinda compress the oil "sponge" back to the center of the paper with the press and pull method described above.

put it back in the diseccator (vac chamber) and put the whole chamber in some water heated to 150F. this will heat the oil to about 125-130F. vac and watch the oil not really move around much, but little tiny bubbles everywhere exploding. release pressure and re vac until no more bubbles show up.

purging in each of the last two steps (room temp stable and heated vac) takes about 4 hours of vac pumping. I leave the vac pump running the whole time. I noticed that extraction was much quicker than just turning on the vac to reach 29hg and turning it off.

I tried a hand pump before I bought a electric vac pump and had the same issues as you. couldn't get past 24 hg and the oil never bubbled much. with an electric vac you can get to 29.5 hg no problem and there are bubbles galore for hours.

hope that helped

Great advice Growery! I don't think vacuuming continuously is necessary until the heating stage.

When I vac purge my oil in the mityvac brake bleeder my errl becomes a little more green and dosent stick together as well. Maybe I overheated in the oven when I was trying to reach molten state.
Any suggestions?

And while were sharing photos
before
after
my rigg

Can a nigg get some input?

I do runs right in parchment paper in pyrex dish. I used double sided tape to keep paper stuck perfectly flat to pyrex in a warm bath. Try to run on one side though otherwise its sucks to pick and pile with dabber when oil is spread out. I only do 7g runs though so not gonna be a huge amount to collect. I like it better than razors, little more prep but its less messy.

Chadius said:

When I vac purge my oil in the mityvac brake bleeder my errl becomes a little more green and dosent stick together as well. Maybe I overheated in the oven when I was trying to reach molten state.
Any suggestions?

Click to expand...

how hot are u heating it up? the safest temp is between 100-120. I usually strive for 110-115 fahrenheit with warm water then into the desiccator and switch on the harborfreight 3CFM 2stage vacuum pump. muffins like a mofo. repeat until the extract is clear as glass. remove ALL bubbles. low heat for terpene preservation.

you can also consider making wax, I've come to prefer wax over shatter. all you have to do is let it vac purge for 24 hours on 125F and you get this great wax that is totally stable and doesn't stick to your fingers and is very plyable at room temp. shatter is great but too messy. I also don't dab with a torch, I use a Ti nail and ceramic soldering iron tip so that may effect my opinion.

nicemm

boffsdad said:

niceView attachment 2335850mm

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My buddies BHO or "dab" doesn't look anything like this. Are you sure you purged it all the way?

Chadius said:

And while were sharing photos
View attachment 2299554before
View attachment 2299555after
View attachment 2299556my rigg

Click to expand...

All looks nice. I have that same poster from cannabis cup 2010 or 2011, I'd have to go check which magazine, but I think it was that one.

I haven't been making wax for a long time, but I've figured out some stuff just by trial and error. Low heat and purging are important to change it into wax or honeycomb, but 24 hours seems a bit excessive.
After I blow it into the Pyrex dish, I let it sit in a warm water bath (hot tap water works well, but you may have to change it once or twice to keep it warm). Once the oil thickens and most of the large bubbles stop forming, its time to scrape your dish.
I put it on parchment paper and try to keep it as bunched up in the middle of the paper as possible (its sticky and messy so do your best). Then stick it into your vacuum chamber.
*If you have a lab grade vac chamber, the thick ceramic baking dishes also work well and can hold much more oil. They also retain heat much longer.
The initial purge will swell up big. Be careful not to let it touch the sides or top of the chamber. You may have to puff it up and down a bunch of times before you can hit full vac. Once you can hit full vac, let it sit under vac until it reaches room temp and becomes stable. It should look like a shattery, spongy blob. Then I let it sit at room temp or put it in the fridge for about 30 mins.
I then slowly heat it up on very low heat (I have a temp gun and try to keep the oil at 130°F or less) I haven't figured out the perfect temp yet, but the lower the temp, the better the end product. Once the oil reaches 120 - 130°, without whipping or mixing the oil, place it right back into the vac chamber and repeat the vac process I mentioned before, puffing it up and down if necessary to reach full vac. Let sit under full vac until it reaches room temp. Then let it sit out or in the fridge for another 30 min.
*at this point its probably safe enough to smoke, and you will have some pretty good shatter, depending on the material you used. In any case, the wax process is not complete yet.
For the third purge, I take the shatter of the parchment paper and place it into a clean Pyrex dish (if you're using a ceramic baking dish, you can heat and whip it in the dish).
Slowly bring the heat up to about 125, 130°, and then whip it until it starts to get waxy (this may take a few mins). Scrape it out of the Pyrex and back onto parchment paper and put it right back in the vac chamber. The muffin should be a nice gold color. Keep it under full vac until the wax reaches room temp.
It should look more waxy at this pint than shatter. If not, keep repeating the heating/ purging process until it does, but the fewer times you heat and vac it the better.
I've also found that after the 3rd purge, I leave it on a very low heat (my set up is a Pyrex dish with a little water on a hit plate with another smaller Pyrex dish in it. Like a double boiler). I keep it on very low heat so the oil doesn't go above 120°F and cover the dishes. This helps dehydrate the oil and will make it crumble. You'll know its done when it becomes stable and almost non sticky at this temp.
*if the wax starts to melt into a puddle, you may have to repeat the purging process again.

I AM NOT A PRO WAX MAKER! I'M ONLY TELLING YOU WHAT HAS WORKED FOR ME SO FAR. I'M OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS FROM ANYONE WITH MORE EXPERIENCE. I POSTED THIS TO TRY TO HELP PEOPLE MAKE WAX. I hope this helps

I might have access to a professional cryovac machine. It's essentially a 6000 dollar foodsaver, but the gague opn this thing goes to 30Hg, and it sure does do a great job as sealing food and vacuuming all air out of containers. I ALSO might have the go-ahead to bring a fresh batch of oil, which I just blasted from 1/4 lb of last years outdoor, into work to use the machine. The thing is, it doesn't keep the vacuum for too long, maybe like 15 seconds, but it's professsional grade...I can put my entire pyrex dish in there, too.

If I bring in my oil to work, I'll try to take some quick videos of the process...Be interesting to see how it works.

Purged in this machine for a total of about 3 hours, water bath every once in a while.
[video=youtube;pEJMJkzBW5g]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEJMJkzBW5g[/video]
Here's the result...

That's fucking dank as hell, yeah where do you guys recommend getting a vacuum purge machine not too expensive? or has anybody heard of using a hand pump with a pyrex dish in the bottom of a food storage container? checkout this vid on youtube.. watch?v=NAD4C1G0thg

IF U R A REAL MAN THE FOOD SAVER LID WILL CRACK UNDER PRESSURE

its not meant for that trust me

u have been warned

The Growery said:

you can also consider making wax, I've come to prefer wax over shatter. all you have to do is let it vac purge for 24 hours on 125F and you get this great wax that is totally stable and doesn't stick to your fingers and is very plyable at room temp. shatter is great but too messy. I also don't dab with a torch, I use a Ti nail and ceramic soldering iron tip so that may effect my opinion.

Click to expand...

Hello. I was wondering if you leave your pump on the whole 24 hours or just recharge the full vacuum every so often. Anyone? I have my shatter process down very well, have yet to make honeycomb but am trying and don't want to fry my pump, though. Thanks in advance for any input!

pump doesnt have to stay on... run pump for 10 mins. close valve, then turn off pump. youre good for a long time now. few days at least. then I run the pump for a few mins just to suck out anything in the chamber that might have de-gassed from the oil or something. turn pump on first, THEN open valve... run for a few minutes. close valve THEN turn pump off. it a good practice/habit to get into.

I have left oil in the chamber for 7 days before (got some in now thats on day 6 I think)

if you want honeycomb/wax, just be patient and it WILL eventually wax up.

since my last post I've come to realize that not all strains will wax up. the lower the quality of the starting material the less likely waxing is to occur. all strains can be extracted into shatter however.