My apologies if I missed it but how important is the use of R/O water with H&G nutes or any nutes in hydro? If you use R/O water do you really need to add Cal Mag or if you use the complete line of H&G are you good to go? Is the Amino really necessary? What are the benefits and disadvantages of using it?
The Official House and Garden Thread
- Thread starter purrrrple
- Start date
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Depends on your the PPM/EC of the water you use. I don't use R/O. I want to, but there's just more important items on my wishlist right now. I.o.w., imo, ideal but not necessarily important.
While everyone on the CalMag bandwagon will tell you 'yes!', the truth is you don't. H&G AB contains a good amount of calcium and magnesium (something like 12% cal en 1.6% mg, but don't quote me on that). Your tapwater will contain some calcium more than likely as well. If you were to add CalMag, you'd be overdoing it.
No, not necessary. Could be great stuff, but I use AB, MultiEnzym, Top Booster, Bud XL, Drip Clean, Magic Green and Root Excelurator - and no Amino.
Thanks for the help. I already have an R/O I just never used it because I thought I would have to use CalMag and no clue on how much or when etc. I thought I read on the thread there was no need for it because it was included in the line. I also thought I seen somewhere H&G is designed for use with R/O water. Any reason you skipped the Amino? Are you using Top Shooter (liquid) or Shooting Powder or neither?
Sativied
Well-Known Member
I read that too. Not on H&G sites but for all I know it's true. Doesn't mean you'll necessarily get problems if you don't use RO, but if you have a medium-high start ppm with regular tapwater I'd start using the RO, even if you mix it like 50-50 with tapwater.
Yeah, a very simple one: it wasn't in the H&G Starterkit. The rest I mentioned is. And the Shooting Powder too indeed. Used it, not going to use it again. It adds another flower phase, which in practice often means foxtails that go on and on while the bud itself is getting older and riper... Can add a week or two to flowering time, which messes up the schedule too. Differs per strain, some love it, some hate it. I don't think it's needed.
brotes grandes
Active Member
Hi guys/girls
has anyone got a definitive which is better bud xl or canna boost. I'm quite interested in seeing which one is better and if 'out performs' the other.
has anyone got a definitive which is better bud xl or canna boost. I'm quite interested in seeing which one is better and if 'out performs' the other.
Hello! I recently opened a new version, RE-500ml. I shook the bottle gently to mix the formula. When I opened the bottle "exploded" like a shook up coke! Is this normal?? Also the next day the res had small bubbles all over the surface. No aeration used. I'm in week 1 using the full HG line, with Liquid Karma this week.
Is there a possibility the RE has "gone bad"?
Thanks a bunch!
Is there a possibility the RE has "gone bad"?
Thanks a bunch!
Grandpapy
Well-Known Member
My shop checked the batch code then opened it, before selling it to me. Last bottle was ok.
They should exchange it for you.
Thanks for the get back. So does it sound like I got a bad bottle? I did shake it softly... Thanks!
....I just called Humbolt wholesale and they are shipping me another bottle ASAP. There was a problem with a case that got too hot. Aloha
Slimjimham
Well-Known Member
Shit, just added top booster today not paying attention at the beginning of week 4 when these plants run for 9 weeks. ... did I just fuck em up?... obv I usually add it in week 6....
any experience with this anyone?
any experience with this anyone?
TheHealingOfTheNation
Member
How many watts are these plants under that you fuckers are vegging with 5ml?
I put them under 600 and they want to shrivel up until I hit them with 8ml
Still having some problems with light green new shoots looking elongated and fucked up
I put them under 600 and they want to shrivel up until I hit them with 8ml
Still having some problems with light green new shoots looking elongated and fucked up
TheHealingOfTheNation
Member
It looks like a foliar of some epsom salts cleared it up in about 24hrs.
Thanks fuckers
Thanks fuckers
purrrrple
Well-Known Member
Wow a lot has changed in 4 years.. Can't believe it's been that long since I wrote this thread 
.. I opened a Hydroponics store in 2010 and have learned quite a bit since which I'll share with everyone.
I've spent many hours learning and educating myself on plants & plant nutrients including h&g and others. I still believe h&g is a unique line & was one of the pioneers in modern day plant nutrients. H&G was originally formulated for roses. Van De Zwaan and his crew were some of Hollands largest commercial producers of roses. I think they quickly realized what crop was their bread and butter and have tweaked the line accordingly. Since my original post they have created several new products & changed several of the names & compositions of their products. I have no experience (in fact have never touched) a bottle of the Hydro nutrient or the Aarde organic line. My experience is based strictly off the US versions of aqua flakes, cocos & soil bases. I'll give a quick run down on each product as I see it.
Of the 3 bases I would certainly say Aqua Flakes is the standout. For recirculating hydro systems you'd be hard pressed to find a cleaner, more stable & effective base. It was designed to be recirculated with pumps that draw mineral element from the water so you won't have any cal/mag issues that are present with some other nutrients when using mag drive pumps. It works INCREDIBLY well in Coco coir also, maybe even better than Cocos a&b. Soil & Coco work great as well but Aqua Flakes is certainly the flagship base for h&g.
Amino treatment was not around when I started this thread. Let me tell you.. This product is worth every penny and you can justify the cost in any feeding regimen. Composed of Amino acids, Silica & other proprietary ingredients, Amino WILL make a noticeable difference on your crop. Plants are all around larger, more resistant to stress and the internodes are stacked much tighter. Amino paves the way for enormous buds period. Please refrain from other silica products when using Amino as it becomes redundant. Buy only what you'll use for one run as this stuff will get a little gross if you leave it sitting for prolonged periods of time.
As for roots excel, the product that brought me to h&g, it has been modified and sold in a new gold bottle. Insiders say it was due to one of the ingredients and US labeling issues. The consistency has changed, it is much more liquidy now as opposed to gooey which is nice for DWC & hydro systems. Unfortunately I think, while it still has a cult following & sells by the boatload, the change actually resulted in a slightly lesser quality product. The jury is still out on this one. We're running extensive testing, will let you know. Many of our customers use GH rapid start successfully as a cheaper substitution.
Algen extract is a kelp extract veg additive. It's extremely thick & dark, do not suggest it for hydro. Even h&g recommends it at 10% strength in hydro systems. Keeps plants extremely lush & green in coco/dirt. Only buy what you'll need for a run as it will goo up on you after time.
Nitrogen boost is another new one. Made specifically for markets like America where we grow large plants due to plant count restrictions. All of h&g bases are low nitrogen. They were designed for growers in Holland who grow short plants on tray tables with very little veg time that require very little nitrogen. The bases are geared towards the blooming phase of a plants life which is why nitrogen boost was created. Supplement with 1-4ml/gal throughout veg if needed.
Drip clean still rocks. .4ml/gal so this product goes a Long way. USE THIS PRODUCT FROM DAY ONE. DO NOT START USING MID WAY. If you have any type of residual salt build up already and begin using it, it will release all of the salts from your drip lines & growing media and wreak havoc ESPECIALLY IN A RECIRCULATING SYSTEM.
Multizen, which was called Multizyme when I originally wrote this post is pretty similar to most enzyme products. Eats dead old root mass & keeps your root zone clean & in check.
Bud XL is an interesting product. If you notice, you stop using multizen once you start using bud XL. This is because the bud XL contains enzymes as well as a proprietary ingredient that transfers the sugar from the leaf to the actual bud. Basically multizen with some extras is my understanding.
Top booster is a mid stage pk bloom booster. The cheapest of all the additives yet probably the single most effective & noticeable product of them all. Pretty much common knowledge & practice for all growers to use a mid stage pk. Definetely a must have.
Shooting powder (and now Top Shooter which is a liquid shooting powder) are still unique to h&g for the most part. Many companies (Advanced Nutrients Overdrive, Aptus breakout powder etc) have created late stage bloom boosters similar to Shooting Powder/Top Shooter. Still they all pale in comparison IMO. These products create a second burst of flowering late into the bloom stage. After adding them you'll notice fresh layers of white pistols shooting up all over. This will result in significantly more weight but the down side is I would recommend prolonging your harvest an extra week to allow the fresh growth to fill in and get the finished color & texture growers are looking for.
Magic green still works ok I guess. I'm ho hum about foliar sprays so my opinion is probably a bit biased.
H&G also Recently released coco coir onto the market. IT IS CAL-MAG INFUSED, DO NOT SUPPLEMENT WITH CALMAG OR YOU WILL HAVE BUILDUP ISSUES!!!!! I still prefer a good, clean non buffered coco like Nutriplus, Nutrilife or Cyco. Also, suggest cutting with atleast 20% perlite or Growstones.
Lastly, I do feel h&g is lacking in a few areas. B vitamins, which I would supplement with AN b52 or Superthrive. We also use Xtreme Gardening products for our beneficials & teas. USE XTREME AZOS, MYKOS & TEA ALWAYS. These products are EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE & CONCENTRATED compared to other comparable products. I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH HOW WELL THESE PRODUCTS WORK WITH HG AND ALL OTHER LINES FOR THAT MATTER. We also use Supercharger RX tablets as an "enzyme supercharger" in all of our grows. IMO h&g should create some sort of early stage bloom booster/bloom trigger. We suggest Advanced Nutrients Bud Ignitor. For growers on a budget Blossom Blaster (Grotek), Bud Blood liquid or powder (Advanced Nutrients) or Blossom Blood all work well. Sea green Also compliments h&g well. It takes care of any residual build up that the drip clean can't handle. Make sure you get the additive stuff (from same manufacturer) that stops the foaming and weirdness of sea green if you're using it in a hydro system. Shout out to Rock Resinator & Bloombastic too. If you're not using the Shooting Powder/Top shooter try these out because they are awesome. DO NOT USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH HG.
Anyhow, there's my 2c rant for the day. Hit me up, purrrrple out!
.. I opened a Hydroponics store in 2010 and have learned quite a bit since which I'll share with everyone.I've spent many hours learning and educating myself on plants & plant nutrients including h&g and others. I still believe h&g is a unique line & was one of the pioneers in modern day plant nutrients. H&G was originally formulated for roses. Van De Zwaan and his crew were some of Hollands largest commercial producers of roses. I think they quickly realized what crop was their bread and butter and have tweaked the line accordingly. Since my original post they have created several new products & changed several of the names & compositions of their products. I have no experience (in fact have never touched) a bottle of the Hydro nutrient or the Aarde organic line. My experience is based strictly off the US versions of aqua flakes, cocos & soil bases. I'll give a quick run down on each product as I see it.
Of the 3 bases I would certainly say Aqua Flakes is the standout. For recirculating hydro systems you'd be hard pressed to find a cleaner, more stable & effective base. It was designed to be recirculated with pumps that draw mineral element from the water so you won't have any cal/mag issues that are present with some other nutrients when using mag drive pumps. It works INCREDIBLY well in Coco coir also, maybe even better than Cocos a&b. Soil & Coco work great as well but Aqua Flakes is certainly the flagship base for h&g.
Amino treatment was not around when I started this thread. Let me tell you.. This product is worth every penny and you can justify the cost in any feeding regimen. Composed of Amino acids, Silica & other proprietary ingredients, Amino WILL make a noticeable difference on your crop. Plants are all around larger, more resistant to stress and the internodes are stacked much tighter. Amino paves the way for enormous buds period. Please refrain from other silica products when using Amino as it becomes redundant. Buy only what you'll use for one run as this stuff will get a little gross if you leave it sitting for prolonged periods of time.
As for roots excel, the product that brought me to h&g, it has been modified and sold in a new gold bottle. Insiders say it was due to one of the ingredients and US labeling issues. The consistency has changed, it is much more liquidy now as opposed to gooey which is nice for DWC & hydro systems. Unfortunately I think, while it still has a cult following & sells by the boatload, the change actually resulted in a slightly lesser quality product. The jury is still out on this one. We're running extensive testing, will let you know. Many of our customers use GH rapid start successfully as a cheaper substitution.
Algen extract is a kelp extract veg additive. It's extremely thick & dark, do not suggest it for hydro. Even h&g recommends it at 10% strength in hydro systems. Keeps plants extremely lush & green in coco/dirt. Only buy what you'll need for a run as it will goo up on you after time.
Nitrogen boost is another new one. Made specifically for markets like America where we grow large plants due to plant count restrictions. All of h&g bases are low nitrogen. They were designed for growers in Holland who grow short plants on tray tables with very little veg time that require very little nitrogen. The bases are geared towards the blooming phase of a plants life which is why nitrogen boost was created. Supplement with 1-4ml/gal throughout veg if needed.
Drip clean still rocks. .4ml/gal so this product goes a Long way. USE THIS PRODUCT FROM DAY ONE. DO NOT START USING MID WAY. If you have any type of residual salt build up already and begin using it, it will release all of the salts from your drip lines & growing media and wreak havoc ESPECIALLY IN A RECIRCULATING SYSTEM.
Multizen, which was called Multizyme when I originally wrote this post is pretty similar to most enzyme products. Eats dead old root mass & keeps your root zone clean & in check.
Bud XL is an interesting product. If you notice, you stop using multizen once you start using bud XL. This is because the bud XL contains enzymes as well as a proprietary ingredient that transfers the sugar from the leaf to the actual bud. Basically multizen with some extras is my understanding.
Top booster is a mid stage pk bloom booster. The cheapest of all the additives yet probably the single most effective & noticeable product of them all. Pretty much common knowledge & practice for all growers to use a mid stage pk. Definetely a must have.
Shooting powder (and now Top Shooter which is a liquid shooting powder) are still unique to h&g for the most part. Many companies (Advanced Nutrients Overdrive, Aptus breakout powder etc) have created late stage bloom boosters similar to Shooting Powder/Top Shooter. Still they all pale in comparison IMO. These products create a second burst of flowering late into the bloom stage. After adding them you'll notice fresh layers of white pistols shooting up all over. This will result in significantly more weight but the down side is I would recommend prolonging your harvest an extra week to allow the fresh growth to fill in and get the finished color & texture growers are looking for.
Magic green still works ok I guess. I'm ho hum about foliar sprays so my opinion is probably a bit biased.
H&G also Recently released coco coir onto the market. IT IS CAL-MAG INFUSED, DO NOT SUPPLEMENT WITH CALMAG OR YOU WILL HAVE BUILDUP ISSUES!!!!! I still prefer a good, clean non buffered coco like Nutriplus, Nutrilife or Cyco. Also, suggest cutting with atleast 20% perlite or Growstones.
Lastly, I do feel h&g is lacking in a few areas. B vitamins, which I would supplement with AN b52 or Superthrive. We also use Xtreme Gardening products for our beneficials & teas. USE XTREME AZOS, MYKOS & TEA ALWAYS. These products are EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE & CONCENTRATED compared to other comparable products. I CAN NOT STRESS ENOUGH HOW WELL THESE PRODUCTS WORK WITH HG AND ALL OTHER LINES FOR THAT MATTER. We also use Supercharger RX tablets as an "enzyme supercharger" in all of our grows. IMO h&g should create some sort of early stage bloom booster/bloom trigger. We suggest Advanced Nutrients Bud Ignitor. For growers on a budget Blossom Blaster (Grotek), Bud Blood liquid or powder (Advanced Nutrients) or Blossom Blood all work well. Sea green Also compliments h&g well. It takes care of any residual build up that the drip clean can't handle. Make sure you get the additive stuff (from same manufacturer) that stops the foaming and weirdness of sea green if you're using it in a hydro system. Shout out to Rock Resinator & Bloombastic too. If you're not using the Shooting Powder/Top shooter try these out because they are awesome. DO NOT USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH HG.
Anyhow, there's my 2c rant for the day. Hit me up, purrrrple out!
One thing we tried to help cool the water, well really more just to keep the air pump metal connector cooler was to hook a hose to the intake on our air pump that is fed directly in front the a/c so its sucking in cold air.....couldnt hurt
LB!! You seem to know a lot about the H&G line and i appreciate your open wisdom. Ive been reading this since page 1 ughh taking forever lol but love to see real questions and responses.. anyone can comment of course
This is DWC with phat air stones:
For HG Ive heard to use half of the recommended dose and only aqua A&B, drip, root, multizen, budxl, top booster only. Do you follow the chart exact and give the full ml per gallon? The few im not using any one certain stand out to REALLY help the growth? (amino, algen, nitro,)
Top shooter or shooting powder...What would you prefer? Ive been told you dont even need it and its easy to burn up.... but after reading earlier feed that you can physically see the buds double im excited to try it!!
Magic green, im getting the idea the water shouldnt be ph? just RO water right?
8 babys put under 1 1000 wt mh for 2 weeks then 2 1000wt hps for 8 weeks = 3 pounds
and we love when theres an extra 4-6 oz Lots of super cropping Raptor hoods of course are amazing.....I heard the same usually between 6.3-6.8 after A&B with RO water. they never use ph up only down. In hydro tho we like ph a little higher 6.0 then add stimulants and never check that shit again....its only needed after the food...A n B....This is crazy been reading about you guys having problems with PH dropping.
My PH after Aqua A/B is 6.3 or little higher i always have to us PH down, i put it around 5.5.
Been starting to mix my new water right after the last watering cycle before lights out. Gives it almost 12 hours to sit.
Trying to keep ontop of this grow, i try and take water test every night and i always notice my ph rises two days and i will be at 5.5 then jump to 6.2. For some reason it always around 6.0-6.2, but if i leave it more then three days with out adding ph down it gets up to 7.0
werid huh
challeacewei
Active Member
hello, what is the general opinion on runoff ppm. My feed goes i at 450 ppm and comes out at 170
Hi all, just wanted to know wot strenght you guys use for your base nutes. I noticed the websites quantities if followed go way over recommended ec up around 3. Do yous follow the mls per litre or the recommended ec at the top of the feed chart. The best run I ever had was following the feed charts mls per liter before I had an ec meter now cant even get close and have issues with wot looks to be potassium deficiency.
a mongo frog
Well-Known Member
for aqua flakes i go 8 ml per gallon till day 21, then i go to 10 ml per till day 35, then i finish with 12 ml per the rest of the way. and i clear water the week before I'm going to chop. but knowing the strain is everything. whats good for the strain only the grower would know upon reading their plants. hope this helps. i stopped going off the feed charts long ago.
challeacewei
Active Member
We asked H&G expert Eliab Lozado “What is your pH when using H&G?”
I am trying to keep it in a narrower target zone: 6.0-6.2.
Rationale: 6.0-6.2 pH is the range where Calcium & Magnesium seem to be more available to a plant in relation to the rest of the essential elements for plant life.
Without this balance, Calcium and Magnesium has been seen in my grow room to just sit around, giving me the impression of a Ca-Mg deficiency. Then comes the addition of Cal-Mag. But since the pH is still a bit off, it accumulates, doing very little. Once the pH rises to ~6.0, all that extra Ca becomes available and calcium toxicity is likely to occur. It’s not a pretty sight seeing those plants screaming for phosphorus, potassium, and manganese. It’s all there, but unavailable because of the calcium imbalance.
When I keep it light on the feeding, adding a tad of fulvic acid as a pH buffer (for pH that tends to drift up), and at a 6.0-6.2 pH range, my plant’s uptake, their health, their yield, and their quality always perform at their best.
Some growers, however, report that certain phenotypes perform better at as low as 5.5 pH. I’d like to conduct a side-by-side on that one, but I’m in no hurry: 6.0-6.2 has worked just fine.
For Soil A&B it’s the same: let us remember that once you put nutrients in the water, your grow is pretty much, by definition, hydroponic. So 6.0-6.2 would be an adequate pH range even for plants grown in soil. A higher pH should be used if growing strictly with organic input as to not compromise the health of your soil with acidic water.
But, please keep in mind that this is me in my grow room and every grow situation is completely different from each other.
H&G base nutrients are Ca-Mg corrected for the medium of choice. I have not needed to supplement with CaMg as long as I’ve kept that pH within the aforementioned range. If a Cal-Mag deficiency is still observed while at this range, then rule out overwatering. Then if overwatering is ruled out, start Cal-Mag but typically @ 1.25 mL/gal. I’d never go beyond 2.5 mL/gal (1/2 tsp). Please and share your experiences with us…I’d love to read them.
from h&g website
I am trying to keep it in a narrower target zone: 6.0-6.2.
Rationale: 6.0-6.2 pH is the range where Calcium & Magnesium seem to be more available to a plant in relation to the rest of the essential elements for plant life.
Without this balance, Calcium and Magnesium has been seen in my grow room to just sit around, giving me the impression of a Ca-Mg deficiency. Then comes the addition of Cal-Mag. But since the pH is still a bit off, it accumulates, doing very little. Once the pH rises to ~6.0, all that extra Ca becomes available and calcium toxicity is likely to occur. It’s not a pretty sight seeing those plants screaming for phosphorus, potassium, and manganese. It’s all there, but unavailable because of the calcium imbalance.
When I keep it light on the feeding, adding a tad of fulvic acid as a pH buffer (for pH that tends to drift up), and at a 6.0-6.2 pH range, my plant’s uptake, their health, their yield, and their quality always perform at their best.
Some growers, however, report that certain phenotypes perform better at as low as 5.5 pH. I’d like to conduct a side-by-side on that one, but I’m in no hurry: 6.0-6.2 has worked just fine.
For Soil A&B it’s the same: let us remember that once you put nutrients in the water, your grow is pretty much, by definition, hydroponic. So 6.0-6.2 would be an adequate pH range even for plants grown in soil. A higher pH should be used if growing strictly with organic input as to not compromise the health of your soil with acidic water.
But, please keep in mind that this is me in my grow room and every grow situation is completely different from each other.
H&G base nutrients are Ca-Mg corrected for the medium of choice. I have not needed to supplement with CaMg as long as I’ve kept that pH within the aforementioned range. If a Cal-Mag deficiency is still observed while at this range, then rule out overwatering. Then if overwatering is ruled out, start Cal-Mag but typically @ 1.25 mL/gal. I’d never go beyond 2.5 mL/gal (1/2 tsp). Please and share your experiences with us…I’d love to read them.
from h&g website