Stealth LED Array light .

stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
guod said:
K.I.S.S
two Drivers; a standard 3 pol wire;
current difference between drivers is about 70mA, can be regulated.
View attachment 3262021


Fan-Driver:
SCW03C-12
http://www.meanwell.com/search/scw03/scw03-spec.pdf
or
http://www.murata-ps.com/data/meters/dms-78xxsr.pdf
the Z-Diode helps here to get the Voltage down to less than 36V
see max input voltage for the 7812SR-C

View attachment 3262022




Click to expand...

Very good ideas ,there !

I liked more the compactness of Murata Solut. LM7812SR ...

But ...

Max input voltage is really close to operating voltage range of the CXA3070 ...
Ok ,zener ...There's going to be some heat there ...Most of times probably ..
But ok ...

What really troubles me is the efficiency vs load ....
The fan needs 80mA ...
Max load of 7812SR is 400mA ...
So it will be operating at 20% of max load ...
Efficiency drops less than 83% at 36 V ....

You know what ?
real problem is the large driving current range of the HLP 80H- 42 drivers I use ...
The meanWell SCW03 is really tempting and also of tiny size ...

But which type ? B or C ?
18-36 volt input ? ( when Drivers dimmed less than ~1000mA )
or
36 -72 VDC input ? ( when Drivers operate more than than ~1000mA )

vF vs If .PNG
So there's a large Vout range (Vin for both the bucks ) ..from ~ 33.5 up to 39.5 ..
( 25-55 C / 350mA to 2100mA )

Why not a small 'classic' 12 V psu ( AC/DC- Switching ) ?

Any ideas there ?
I much liked the compact size/ low weight of your proposals ,Guod ...

Cheers .

 
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PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Einstein "Make things as simple as possible, but not simpler"

As you will likely want to use a fan to gently blow over your plants, you could do as I did with the BML SPYDR 600 and position a fan to blow over the canopy AND the heat sinks

The new Amare Tech panels I am testing use fans that are very quiet on their SS 100

What little sound is muffled by the 4 air stones bubbling away
 
ballist

ballist

Well-Known Member
I wouldn't like to have something in my tent without mains isolation. Touch a fan lead and see how high you jump with a non isolated version. There are plenty of cheap options for a 12vdc feed which are isolated small and low cost.
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
some background,

"X and Y rated AC capacitors
There are two classes of AC capacitors, Class X and Y. Class X capacitors are connected from line to line while Y capacitors are connected from line to ground. Another significant difference between these two classes is if an X capacitor fails it does not expose anyone to electrical shock as opposed to a Y capacitor, which upon failure would expose anyone to electrical shock. "
more...
http://www.engineersgarage.com/contribution/capacitor-power-supply-design

next point against it...
size of C2
Elko radial 470µF 100V 105°C ;
RM7,5 16x31mm
RM10 25X20mm


and some Bassey
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
guod said:
some background,

"X and Y rated AC capacitors
There are two classes of AC capacitors, Class X and Y. Class X capacitors are connected from line to line while Y capacitors are connected from line to ground. Another significant difference between these two classes is if an X capacitor fails it does not expose anyone to electrical shock as opposed to a Y capacitor, which upon failure would expose anyone to electrical shock. "
more...
http://www.engineersgarage.com/contribution/capacitor-power-supply-design

next point against it...
size of C2
Elko radial 470µF 100V 105°C ;
RM7,5 16x31mm
RM10 25X20mm


and some Bassey
Click to expand...

Ok ,thank you ...
Very good points there .
I do,though,like the idea you've presented ,to drive the fan through a buck ,
powered by the led driver ...
Thing is , I can't find an appropriate buck for the job ...
(min Vin range : 32-40 VDC = weird enough range )

Cheers.
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Not much available free time ...
Things are going slowly ....


P9271518.JPG
The metal case ,has an inner 'base-plate' ( aluminium thick 0.8 mm ).
On that base-plate the fan and the heatsink are going to be attached .
Fan on top side( shown at pic ) ,the heatsink underneath,on the other side ..

Now a large hole has to be cut .
Later two aluminium bars ( profile : Π ) are going to be added (on top side ) ,
to increase rigidity of the plate (which carries a 2 Kg heatsink )


P9271519.JPG

At the pic shown the front plate of the case (aluminium 1.2 mm ) and the top lid (steel ) of the case .
On the top lid a rectangle opening has to be made ,so the perforated steel ' vent ',will be attached ( with rivets ) .
,from underneath .

Perforated steel sheet was salvaged from an ancient valve audio amplifier .
Incredibly hard and rigid .I was quite suprised with its resistance to bending !

From there cool air will be sucked in ,to be blown to the heatsink's fins ...
 
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
stardustsailor said:
Thing is , I can't find an appropriate buck for the job ...
(min Vin range : 32-40 VDC = weird enough range )

Cheers.
Click to expand...
same problem here...
i know that the solution with the 7812SR-C is not best, but stupid simple

real eff. is just about 50%.for this circuit.
eff.= Pfan / Pin
=.098 / 2.1= <50%
sounds worse, but we are talking here about 2 Watts.
the eff. of the light counts here easily 20 times

78XXSR-eff.png

for me, one light, one cable
 
stardustsailor

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
guod said:
same problem here...
i know that the solution with the 7812SR-C is not best, but stupid simple

real eff. is just about 50%.for this circuit.
eff.= Pfan / Pin
=.098 / 2.1= <50%
sounds worse, but we are talking here about 2 Watts.
the eff. of the light counts here easily 20 times

View attachment 3262542

for me, one light, one cable
Click to expand...

Yes ...Fan is just 0.96 W ..
Even if eff. sucks ,still we're talking about ~2 Watts ...


I'm too a fan of 'one light ,one cable' ...
Well ...
My initial plan was : " Since I use a case ,that has plenty of room for a 140 mm fan ,2x led drivers and a
small 12 VDC 100mA (<= ideally ) power supply ,why not use an ac/dc switching psu ?

Something like Meanwell PM-05-12 ...

http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/search.aspx?prod=PM-05

Make a FR4 pcb ,install it and power it parallel to the led drivers on the AC side .

Eff. : 73% ( not so great ... )

Cheers

 
salmonetin

salmonetin

Well-Known Member
on the previous "yets", its on all onboard...

im curious... @guod your prefer drivers apart? ...i prefer drivers apart and the fan with 4 pines... ...its only my inexpert opinion...

...sds its only curiousity, all on board like me too...


pd sds the last video yours i like it toooo much, thanksss i did not know them
...your link dont go for me but i see,,,http://www.meanwell.com/search/PM-05/PM-05-spec.pdf

saludos
 
Last edited:
guod

guod

Well-Known Member
salmonetin said:
on the previous "yets", its on all onboard...

im curious... @guod your prefer drivers apart? ...i prefer drivers apart and the fan with 4 pines... ...its only my inexpert opinion...

saludos
Click to expand...
I prefer KISS
prototyp of a simple reef-light
24 nichia(5000k); drivers onboard; 130lm/W, PASSIV COOLED
runs direct from 24Vdc; as many as your PSU can serve
solderless (Wago onboard)

moduls from a surplus shop in germany
http://www.pollin.de/shop/dt/MTIxOTc4OTk-/Lichttechnik_Leuchtmittel/LED_Technik/LEDs/LED_Modul_VISTRON_210x48_mm_5000_K_2300_lm_24_V_17_W.html
 

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