Phospohorous def./Nitrogen tox. or something... (obviously, I don't know!)

PS- after taking out what I could of the nut. spikes and doing a bit of a flush with reg. 7ph tap water ( I was halfway through flushing the pot when Dr. who advised it may not be the best, so I stopped :P) the clawing of my girls new growth seems to be diminishing! Am hoping it is not just optimistic eyesight. A few more days and the proof should be worth posting.
 

Kush Knight

Well-Known Member
I have a package of Mycorrhizal Inoculant leftover from veggie gardening and a container of "Effective Micro organisms", the product is called ProBio balance pro plus. I use the EM for foliar feeding in veg (and occasionally put a bit in the water to decrease the ph) but haven't used the myco powder yet. Just curious do you add the powder to the growing medium at setup or do you add the powder to your water during the first few weeks? I have heard of both ways being used and am curious about opinions on the matter. Would using both the EM and the myco powder be overkill?
My hippie friend says he has basically turned his soil into pure microorganisms both living and carcasses. Even though thats guaranteed an exaggeration, from the quality and quantity per plant i assume you can't overdo the colony count. Use the teas, and use 'em frequently.
 

MammothGrow

Well-Known Member
I have a package of Mycorrhizal Inoculant leftover from veggie gardening and a container of "Effective Micro organisms", the product is called ProBio balance pro plus. I use the EM for foliar feeding in veg (and occasionally put a bit in the water to decrease the ph) but haven't used the myco powder yet. Just curious do you add the powder to the growing medium at setup or do you add the powder to your water during the first few weeks? I have heard of both ways being used and am curious about opinions on the matter. Would using both the EM and the myco powder be overkill?
Ive read that its best to put in the hole you transplant into or sprinkle on top of the soil. I always just water mine in(Great White) and see great results. I have too many pots to sprinkle all of them so its easier to water in. I would go by the dosage rates they give you, or 1/2 strength both of them. Probably hard to overdo it. Another thing to contemplate is if their is trichoderma in your myco, they say the trichoderma eat the myco so you want to put the myco in the soil and then wait at least 7-10 days for them to get established on the roots before adding trichoderma. I need to call Great White and see what they have to say about this because their product has the trichoderma with the myco.
 

Kush Knight

Well-Known Member
Ive read that its best to put in the hole you transplant into or sprinkle on top of the soil. I always just water mine in(Great White) and see great results. I have too many pots to sprinkle all of them so its easier to water in. I would go by the dosage rates they give you, or 1/2 strength both of them. Probably hard to overdo it. Another thing to contemplate is if their is trichoderma in your myco, they say the trichoderma eat the myco so you want to put the myco in the soil and then wait at least 7-10 days for them to get established on the roots before adding trichoderma. I need to call Great White and see what they have to say about this because their product has the trichoderma with the myco.

OP READ THIS.
https://www.rollitup.org/t/mycorrhiza-101.262494/
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
I have a package of Mycorrhizal Inoculant leftover from veggie gardening and a container of "Effective Micro organisms", the product is called ProBio balance pro plus. I use the EM for foliar feeding in veg (and occasionally put a bit in the water to decrease the ph) but haven't used the myco powder yet. Just curious do you add the powder to the growing medium at setup or do you add the powder to your water during the first few weeks? I have heard of both ways being used and am curious about opinions on the matter. Would using both the EM and the myco powder be overkill?
Using multiple forms of myco's and fungi is never considered "overkill" in my book. Neither feed off each other so, yeah it's ok to use at the same time.

MOST quality organic soils already contain "living"(dormant) colonies of both. Once the plant is potted in these soils. The colonies become active and grow through out or grow onto it's new home. The use of added bio's is not needed, but I still add some back every time I use an AACT tea as they come from the worm castings and alfalfa/kelp (kelp also adds natural Humic and Fulvic acids) meal naturally.

I have soil-less and soil friends that dip their roots directly into the great white right out of the cloner. I have others that simply mix it into their water, even during cloning. Soil and soil-less grows do not need additional treatments other then your first, but if you use synthetic nutrition you should periodically re-add some. It is a WIDELY believed MYTH that synthetics "kill" myco's etc. That is NOT true! What synthetics DO is to put some into dormant states from high P concentrations and from other interactions. The regular use of Kelp products help this by adding the "good" Humic and Fulvic acids that help reduce nutrient build-up's (In a sense or in a way, as they increase nutrient uptake/regulate P).

The use of silica, helps regulate P. P can be the single biggest problem in growing our chosen plant. They will use what it needs and actually stores some in the plant for later use in flower (for the start of). The over use of P will cause yellowing of the leaves from the bottom up and out the branching to even into the bud leaves. I see this as one of the most encountered problems on this site. The use of added "P" in flower should be done carefully!

Note: There are many Humic acid supplements available. I find that many are not as effective as they could be (from what they derive it from to how concentrated they are [or aren't to be accurate]). The single most effective Humic and Fulvic acid supplement I have found is SEA GREEN. When used, I have to reduce my nutrient application by 50% or burn the plants!!

I hate to spread corporate propaganda. But, with that said. I will share this That I first saw in a Hydro Life mag a few years back. Re found it online in a PDF.
This has some very good info on living soil bio's/myco's

http://www.plant-success.com/images/stories/super_feeding_article_web.pdf

I noticed you mentioned the use of a bio as a foliar. I use a basic AACT tea as one also from time to time if I need. It keeps problems with molds and fungus's at bay. You simply take out a cup at 18 hrs of brew time and apply and let the rest go it's normal amount for the Bio tea.

Keep growing
 
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Using multiple forms of myco's and fungi is never considered "overkill" in my book. Neither feed off each other so, yeah it's ok to use at the same time.

MOST quality organic soils already contain "living"(dormant) colonies of both. Once the plant is potted in these soils. The colonies become active and grow through out or grow onto it's new home. The use of added bio's is not needed, but I still add some back every time I use an AACT tea as they come from the worm castings and alfalfa/kelp (kelp also adds natural Humic and Fulvic acids) meal naturally.

I have soil-less and soil friends that dip their roots directly into the great white right out of the cloner. I have others that simply mix it into their water, even during cloning. Soil and soil-less grows do not need additional treatments other then your first, but if you use synthetic nutrition you should periodically re-add some. It is a WIDELY believed MYTH that synthetics "kill" myco's etc. That is NOT true! What synthetics DO is to put some into dormant states from high P concentrations and from other interactions. The regular use of Kelp products help this by adding the "good" Humic and Fulvic acids that help reduce nutrient build-up's (In a sense or in a way, as they increase nutrient uptake/regulate P).

The use of silica, helps regulate P. P can be the single biggest problem in growing our chosen plant. They will use what it needs and actually stores some in the plant for later use in flower (for the start of). The over use of P will cause yellowing of the leaves from the bottom up and out the branching to even into the bud leaves. I see this as one of the most encountered problems on this site. The use of added "P" in flower should be done carefully!

Note: There are many Humic acid supplements available. I find that many are not as effective as they could be (from what they derive it from to how concentrated they are [or aren't to be accurate]). The single most effective Humic and Fulvic acid supplement I have found is SEA GREEN. When used, I have to reduce my nutrient application by 50% or burn the plants!!

I hate to spread corporate propaganda. But, with that said. I will share this That I first saw in a Hydro Life mag a few years back. Re found it online in a PDF.
This has some very good info on living soil bio's/myco's

http://www.plant-success.com/images/stories/super_feeding_article_web.pdf

I noticed you mentioned the use of a bio as a foliar. I use a basic AACT tea as one also from time to time if I need. It keeps problems with molds and fungus's at bay. You simply take out a cup at 18 hrs of brew time and apply and let the rest go it's normal amount for the Bio tea.

Keep growing
Well, I will add Humic and Fulvic acid to my list of "things-to-learn-about." I have heard that P is an immobile element and so a little goes a long way (unlike N which can be leached or flushed out), but using silica to regulate it is news to me. I was just banging on about diatomaceous earth on a different forum here. Since DE is, I think, 100% crystalline silica, would that do the regulatory trick for P? Will check out the PDF you posted once my coffee's brewed!

Thanks for the informative, well written posts!
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
You are quite correct on the immobile P issue.

Nope, you need a Si that's available to plant use. Si , in relation with the living bio's help regulate the plants uptake of P. While not a major player in P regulation it does help. It also builds cell walls and helps the plants tolerate higher heat. When you use a Si supplement. The Si will jump the K by an average of 3 points. Extra K is not like extra P. The plant will tolerate it just fine. In fact extra K can effect the plant by helping it express color traits, like purples, reds, oranges to browns.
A lot of the "color expressed" plants in seed breeders catalogs are done by lowering lights off temps by 15 or more Deg. Don't get me wrong here. There are naturally purple plants. But those that have more "off" coloring like reds and oranges are manipulated by the use of K and lights out temp drops.

Just some extra side info there.

Thanks for the compliment.
DOC
 
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