Nuggs 2015 russet mite war

nuggs

Well-Known Member
If the DE doesn't hold them off , which would be your first pick to use ?
Read post #404 big apple knows what he's talking about. Hit them very very very early with a avid ,or forbid or foramite dip. then fog in veg 2or 3 times depending on outbreaks using the same as mentioned in the dip routine be sure to change them up each spraying to avoid resistance. then go with the safe omni cert. nuke um or og biowar or caps biowar in flower. theres other options outlined though out this thread.
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
first preventive spray of mycostop (b. bassinia) today at 1T per gallon . about to flip light dep and noticed whiteflys in my worm bin.
 
Here is what I do and have real good success with . I amend all my soil with DE it takes care of pretty much anything in the soil I also dust the top of the soil with DE and during veg only I mix 3/4 cup of DE per gallon of water with sm 90 with my regular foliar program it creates a environment the mites can't live in and also stops their ability to travel around the plant and if by chance there is any sign of bugs left before I trip em I'll hit them with a light application of forbid. I have found this to be very effective controlling these fuckers I cant begin to express how well I think DE works. Repetition, cleanliness and attention to detail are your friends.
happy growing
 

Joedank

Well-Known Member
Actually, if you are using Dave's organic program (http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites) I think what what your going for is BioWorks Mycotrol: Beauveria bassiana.
i got trico hazorium (mycostop) AND b. bassiana (mycotrol) sorry if i said the wrong one i would not ever try to SPRAY T.HAZ. foliar (thats my root dip with Glomus inter..
http://www.everwoodfarm.com/pdf/rates-for-small-volumes-botanigard.pdf
this is what i am using for sure
and i have gone thru 50 lbs of D.E. love that shit

i dont have the original bottles of this stuff i split large orders with another farm so my stuff is just in jars with the fungus / bacc name NOT the "trade name" sorry for confusion..
 
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nuggs

Well-Known Member
Controlling Moth and Butterfly Caterpillars in the garden
Introduction


Caterpillars of several butterfly and moth species cause damage to a variety of crops. The most important species occurring in glasshouses are the tomato looper (Chrysodeixis chalcites), the tomato moth (Lacanobia oleracea), the cabbage moth (Mamestra brassicae), the beet armyworm (Spodoptera exigua) and the silver-y moth (Autographa gamma).

Biology


The life-cycle of butterflies and moths consists of four stages, namely egg, caterpillar, pupa and butterfly. The eggs are often laid in groups on the leaf or glasshouse structures. The larva of a butterfly is a caterpillar and has a well-developed head and strong jaws. Caterpillars eat almost continuously, except when they are moulting. The species listed do not generally fly during the daytime, unless they are disturbed.

Damage symptoms


Small caterpillars mainly feed on the undersides of the leaves. The upper layer (epidermis) remains undamaged. If caterpillars mature, they disperse on the plant. Initially they cause small, later also bigger holes in the leaves.

The large amount of excrements of the caterpillars soils the crop
 

nuggs

Well-Known Member
I'd like to give a huge thank you to everyone who has helped me with this thread,and to everyone that has been following along. My intentions from the start was to gather all the information I could to help myself and fellow growers with their problems and to have it in one place for reference. We have enough in this thread to win the war. Something that I lost last season. I'm pretty much done with my research. Thanks again..!
 

doublejj

Well-Known Member
I just read up on how to convert from wet to dry....:roll:.......I think I'll be buying a 2nd one for wet only....
 
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