Not sure... +rep

spex420

Well-Known Member
i have some form of pest but im not sure what it is.

i use airpots and coir i noticed the other day when i lifted my pot to see if it needed watering that there was a small mass of worm like things under one of my airpots(has 2" space under neath) looked under a few more and outta my 5 plants 3 had worms.

they were white only about 1/4" long they almost looked like maggots i put a stick in the cluster and a few of them jumped. i had a pocket microscope nearby after further examination they seemed to look more like gnats they just didnt fly.

i hosed down the infected areas with lysol a few days later and i don't see any signs that they are back.

my plants seemed to have slowed down flowering and bud growth could this be bcuz of the pests are they root worms or..? im stuck. +rep to most knowledgeable
 

Dank Hands

Active Member
how far into flower are you? Where did you get your soil? you should pull one of the pests out and examine it to see if its a worm or maggot. There are many different things that can be used to kill pests in soil. Its very possible that you bought your soil with worms in it already.
 

Dank Hands

Active Member
lol i should have read it more closely, thats my bad just looked at it again haha. sounds like fungus gnats. a little neem oil can kill those, or a sand layer on top of the soil, or i heard a huge layer of perlite on the top works too.
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member
Could be some kind of fungus gnat. Do you see anything flying around in the room little flys? They may have got down in the soil and fell out the bottom.
 

JEEP1

Member
they may be root magots,is ther any way you can pull one of your plants out of it's pot to look at it's roots.these little fuckers will eat your roots witch will slow your plant's groth way down,maybe do a soil drench with aza max.
hope this helps.

PEACE JEEP1
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member
The emerging larvae are clear to creamy-white and can grow to about 5 ½ millimeters long. They have shiny black head capsules. The larvae feed on tasty root hairs in the upper 1 centimeter of the soil, then work their way up into the plant stem. (They also love to feed on the roots of your newly planted seed, so watch those seed-starting trays in spring!) The larvae feed on highly organic soils, too. After feeding for approximately 14 days, the larva pupates. In about three and a half days, an adult will emerge from the case. The total life cycle takes two to four weeks.
 

spex420

Well-Known Member
nothing is flying around in the room the lysol seemed to have got them.

my coir came in a brick they don't look like worms under a microscope they kinda look like gnats or white flying ants i really have no idea what they could be i don't think they are in the roots although i could be wrong.

it was just a small area directly under the plant i guess it was moist enough for them.
 

bkbbudz

New Member
GNASTY little fuckers. Dank had a good suggestion. Put about a 1-2" layer of clean playground sand on top of the soil. Good Luck!
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member
The first thing to do is to get rid of infested plants. Dying plants will attract the root maggot fly and should either be disposed of in the trash or burned. Do not compost them. Once a plant is infested, it cannot be saved, but you can do several things to keep the next plants from becoming infected.
Organic root maggot control can be:
  • Dusting the plants with diatomaceous earth
  • Adding beneficial nematodes to the soil
  • Releasing predatory rove beetles into your garden
  • Covering plants with floating row covers
  • Solarizing infected beds
If you wish to use chemicals for root maggot control, apply a liquid pesticide to your garden bed at the beginning of the growing season. Make sure that you soak the soil. This will kill off the vegetable root maggots. Keep in mind that anything else in treated soil, such as worms, will also be killed.
 

ismokealotofpot

New Member
for fungus gnats the key is prevention, and you can do this two ways: The first is to avoid overwatering your plants. Overwatering, to fungus gnats, is like laying a big steak on the floor in front of a starving dog – they can’t resist it. The second way to prevent the problem is to inspect the soil of a plant before bringing one home. Do you see gnats buzzing around it? If so, that’s not a good sign. Put the plant down and just walk away. Some good monitoring methods can help cut down fungus gnat issues, too. Yellow stick cards (small, yellow cards with sticky adhesive on both sides) often do the trick. These can be purchased online. Many insects, including flies, are attracted to the color yellow. So upon seeing the yellow stick card, they’ll mindlessly fly right into it, and SPLAT! The adult fly is stuck. Ta-da! These cards are most effective when placed horizontally near the surface of potting soil. You can use popsicle sticks or straws to hold the cards, or some come with sticks in the package. Keep in mind, however, that this control method only traps adults – not the larval stage of fungus gnats.
Another way to control these plant invaders is with the potato trap method: Cut chunks of potato into 1 ½-inch-square pieces. Place them on the surface of your potting soil. This is like a chuck wagon call for fungus gnat larvae! They’ll head straight for it and start munching. Leave the potato for a few days and then lift it up – you’ll quickly discover if you have larvae in your soil. (And obviously remove the potato once you’re finished with it – no one wants rotting potatoes in their pots … or anywhere in the house, for that matter.)
Controlling fungus gnats through biological means is a relativity easy thing to do as well. Currently two different biological control agents are available: beneficial nematodes and predatory mites.
There are several species of beneficial nematodes that can be found through the Internet. These nematodes are so small, they can’t be seen with the naked eye. (If you get real close and look hard enough, you can see them with a 10X hand lens.) Steinernema feltiae is the most commonly used nematode species for fly larvae control. Nematodes are simple to apply – just water them into the soil.
One predatory mite you might like to try is Hypoaspis miles – a brownish soil-dwelling mite less than 1 millimeter in size (now that’s really small). This predatory mite inhabits the top layer (at a depth of 1-4 centimeters) of the soil and feeds on harmful soil insects, such as fungus gnat larvae and thrips pupae. It takes an average of 18 days for this mite to reach adulthood. Adult mites can kill up to seven fly larva per day. One of the favorable characteristics of this particular mite is its high tolerance to starvation. Newly emerged adults can survive for three to four weeks without food. (If fed, adults can be active for four to five months.) These, too, can be purchased through the Internet.
A fungus gnat outbreak can cause quite a headache, but by following proper water-management practices and treating the pests once they’re found in the soil, they can be easily controlled.
 
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