Mixing Advanced Nutrients... Properly!!!

patlpp

patlpp

New Member
AzCannaMan said:
Results of Analysis – Heavy Metals (Big Bud)



ElementLab MethodResults
Results Submitted to Support Product Registration​
Arsenic (As)EPA 3050B, 6010B16.2 ppm0.8 ppm
Cadmium (Cd)EPA 3050B, 6010B< 5 ppm< 0.1 ppm
Mercury (Hg)EPA 7471A< 0.2 ppm< 0.001 ppm
Lead (Pb)EPA 3050B, 6010B10.7 ppm<0.5 ppm
Nickel (Ni)EPA 3050B, 6010B< 5 ppm0.6 ppm
.
Click to expand...
Note the "Submitted" levels? Those are for LIQUID big Bud, not the powder which is heavily concentrated. Powder nutes are tested @ 1 gram in 100ml water so naturally the metal levels will be higher. I really suspect this "independant" test. I could not find this test on the Oregon website, i did find the other parts to the post but not this test.

Glad you switched to Dyna-gro to get away from all those evil AN heavy metals. Just one thing though, check out Dyna-gro's heavy metal report, they are WORSE.

http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=610
http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612

Keep in mind these numbers are 1/3 the concentration of the Big Bud Powder test. It's not like it means they are shit, it just means the more concentrate a fert is , the higher the metal content will be. They test at a specific weight for wet or dry fertilizers for standardization.

The reason dyna-gro metals are high is because they tout they supply ALL micro-nutes and that is where most of the heavy metals are acquired from. Higher micros will result in higher metals, goes hand-in-hand.
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
@AZcanna lets state the N-P-K values of each product. AN suggests 2ml/l for supps and 4ml/l for base. So 2ml = 1 "unit".

Sensi Bloom (a) 3-0-0 x 2 units = 6-0-0
Sensi Bloom (b) 2-4-8 x2 units = 4-8-16
Big Bud 0-1-3 x1 unit = 0-1-3
B-52 2-1-4 x1 unit = 2-1-4

Add them up and you get 12-10-23 or 1.2-1-2.3 This is the recommended N-P-K ratio set forth for PH-perfect in bloom week 3 and 4 (or more depending on flower duration)

When you alter the base dosage yet leave the supps constant, you alter the N-P-K ratio. when you alter the supps dosage yet leave the base constant, you alter the N-P-K ratio.
The only way to do it correctly is to put your base and supps at a 2:1 ratio respectively and measure PPM. If it's too high, you add water, if its too low, you add ALL the nutes at the same 2:1 ratio.

The whole AN PH-Perfect system is getting so misconstrued. Did they not say to disregard the PPM and PH meter? So do it. Do exactly as they say. I talked to numerous techs and the one common thing is to feed them as instructed. YES you will waste nutes BUT, the wasted nutes will do just that , get wasted without burning your plants. The PH is not just the value in the bucket but how it works on the roots also. I am 3/4 of the way through a grow doing this and they are coming along fine, no deficiencies or lockouts. This system is designed as "Plug and Play" for the not so caring, I call it the honey badger system. For a grower who just doesn't give a shit. It serves a purpose. Yes I know I'm wasting nutes, my intuition screams at me but I'm testing this shit out.

One additional note: You must stay with PH-Perfect supps. if you don't you screw up the whole thing. Example. Substitute Rhino skin with ProTeck. You just added a 0-0-3 product for a 0-0-.6 product that is PH-perfect. Your Ph will skyrocket. ANY non-Ph-perfect product will screw it up. I saw it.
 
KrAzY80

KrAzY80

Active Member
They dont offer ph perfect in my area. The ph perfect calculator makes sense and is obviously straight forward but the other calculator is bullshit and i cant make sense of it no matter how i look at it. For light feeding it has you exceeding the maximum acceptable ppms for N and K. It also says to use almost 3 times as much b52 and big bud as base. Their is no way in hell you can use it to grow anything. Like canna man said it lacks alot of micros as well along with P which is why i fell the need to spend 15 bucks on a bottle of magpro instead of 150 on other supplements in their line. I dont know about heavy metals but. I do know what their bottles read is not what is in it. If it was than I wouldnt be writing in this blog right because my shit would be right on point. Even if their is some method to use their calc it shouldnt be so difficult to use and you sure in the hell shouldnt have to waste the most expensive nutes out their to mix them properly. How do they justify that and the price?
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
patlpp said:
Glad you switched to Dyna-gro to get away from all those evil AN heavy metals. Just one thing though, check out Dyna-gro's heavy metal report, they are WORSE.

http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=610
http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612
Click to expand...
Are you sure you posted the correct links because not a single heavy metal value in either DG product is worse than the AN product being discussed.


I also want to add that you may be able to disregard the pH pen but to disregard a TDS meter is just stupid and I'm not surprised the AN guys told you to do so.

AN's new product is NOT 'pH perfect', it's just a formula where all the elements are chelated. Your ppm STILL matters, it always has mattered and always will. I've said this before but if you're not growing in hydro, there is no need for 'pH perfect' bottles. No one with half a brain has issues with their pH in dirt/coco. I even reuse promix up to 3 times and never have pH issues.
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
homebrewer said:
Are you sure you posted the correct links because not a single heavy metal value in either DG product is worse than the AN product being discussed.
Click to expand...
The discussion and my argument is that Dyna has more heavy metals than AN; and the reason why is because Dyna has more micro's. That's a good thing right? Fact: More micro's more metal. Heavy metal maximums are based on the MICRO-nutient content

Dyna-gro GROW Metals:___10/0.5/0.05/5/1.2 with a 7-9-5 NPK >>>>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612
AN Sensi grow (A) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.1 with a 3-0-0 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15847
AN Sensi grow (B) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.5 with a 2-2-5 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15825
AN SENSI GROW, A&B Aggregated : 1/0.2/0.1/2.4/0.6 with a 5-2-5 NPK

Dyno's Arsnic,Lead and nickel are most noteworthy.

HB if you are referring to the lab results in red why would you give it credence? You yourself require valid supportive references and the one shown in red is not. Why would he post "submitted" values which are that of Big Bud liquid when the test results were for Big Bud powder, a much more concentrated formula? So why would I believe any values in this test? That doesn't seem suspicious to you? THe author has an agenda, and that agenda is to sell his book. I have yet to see a cease and desist for AN for heavy metals.
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
homebrewer said:
I also want to add that you may be able to disregard the pH pen but to disregard a TDS meter is just stupid and I'm not surprised the AN guys told you to do so.
Click to expand...
The only criteria to deviate from the 4ml/2ml feed and therefor the TDS value is the age of the grow. I know it goes against yours and my common sense but that is what you are supposed to do.
Don't shoot me, I'm just the messenger. These dosages are to accommodate everything from hydroton to soil, Ebb to manual, recirc to waste, so of course it will be set to the highest TDS demanding method. But I was assured it will work. If it doesn't, back it goes. As you gain experience, you can decrease the dosages tailored to your particular method /medium. That is why the rookie should start off with the Hobby kit, at the described dosages and work his way up.
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
homebrewer said:
AN's new product is NOT 'pH perfect', it's just a formula where all the elements are chelated. Your ppm STILL matters, it always has mattered and always will. I've said this before but if you're not growing in hydro, there is no need for 'pH perfect' bottles. No one with half a brain has issues with their pH in dirt/coco. I even reuse promix up to 3 times and never have pH issues.
Click to expand...
OK, I get you but the system is designed for ALL mediums and methods, not just soil and coco to waste. Additionally, its designed for the half-brained, they admit it in some advertisements. The key is stay with the protocol which is to use PH-Perfect additives only.
Another humorous observation is many people who post that they tried it, immediately started with the Master level when AN stresses to advance one kit at a time. Also , many substitute with non-ph-perfect additives .
jul20 30f -2.jpg

2 plants @ 30 day flower. Started @ 50% then 75% now 100%. No cropping/topping, just let er go like a stoner.
It's not THE best but it's healthy. Nice bud formation/density, erect bud leaves, no burn. It is a marketing gimmick , very much so , but it works.

Does one really think AN is going to produce a whole new growing regimen that will totally fry all grows? Be a little more pragmatic..please.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
patlpp said:
The discussion and my argument is that Dyna has more heavy metals than AN; and the reason why is because Dyna has more micro's. That's a good thing right? Fact: More micro's more metal. Heavy metal maximums are based on the MICRO-nutient content

Dyna-gro GROW Metals:___10/0.5/0.05/5/1.2 with a 7-9-5 NPK >>>>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612
AN Sensi grow (A) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.1 with a 3-0-0 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15847
AN Sensi grow (B) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.5 with a 2-2-5 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15825
AN SENSI GROW, A&B Aggregated : 1/0.2/0.1/2.4/0.6 with a 5-2-5 NPK

Dyno's Arsnic,Lead and nickel are most noteworthy.

HB if you are referring to the lab results in red why would you give it credence? You yourself require valid supportive references and the one shown in red is not. Why would he post "submitted" values which are that of Big Bud liquid when the test is for Big Bud powder? So why would I believe any values in this test? That doesn't seem suspicious to you? THe author has an agenda, and that agenda is to buy his book. I have yet to see a cease and desist for AN for heavy metals.
Click to expand...
In all fairness with the heavy metal numbers, all of them, even the one's tested by the guy with an agenda, are WELL below the state of Oregon's maximums. I should add that the maximum level of heavy metals allowed in a plant food by the state of Oregon is based on 20 years of use in the same plot of land before heavy metals build up to 'unsafe' levels.

So when it comes to indoor growing where the medium is often discarded after one use (or even a few), the heavy metal content is nothing to worry about if Oregon allows the product to be sold in their state.

FWIW, I use a lot more bloom and feed at a higher level in flower than any other product and DG's bloom is very clean:

A: <0.5
C: 0.2
M: <0.05
L : 2.4
Nickel (an essential element): 4.1
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
Very true HB. The values reiterate Dyna's superiority in it's micro content. I hope you didn't think I was slamming Dyna's metals. Rather , I was bringing to light to @canna that AN's metals are lower, and should not be that much of a determining factor,that's all.
I am really curious when/if the PH-perfect numbers come out. Since AN claims all micro-nutes are in it like Dyna, the metal levels should correspond close to that of Dyna's.

EDIT: I noticed you mention Nickel and I thought I remembered something about it as an essential element but the reason stuck as to why:

http://www.eplantscience.com/botanical_biotechnology_biology_chemistry/plant_nutrition/essential_elements_micronutrients/nickel/conclusion.php

So Nickels role is to aid in the metabolism of urea! In hydro, with nitrates and/or ammoniacal N sources, it is not needed I believe.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
patlpp said:
EDIT: I noticed you mention Nickel and I thought I remembered something about it as an essential element but the reason stuck as to why:

http://www.eplantscience.com/botanical_biotechnology_biology_chemistry/plant_nutrition/essential_elements_micronutrients/nickel/conclusion.php

So Nickels role is to aid in the metabolism of urea! In hydro, with nitrates and/or ammoniacal N sources, it is not needed I believe.
Click to expand...
Nickel is essential for seed development. I'd post a link but my computer isn't allowing me to cut-and-paste (in the process of upgrading).
 
AzCannaMan

AzCannaMan

Active Member
patlpp said:
The discussion and my argument is that Dyna has more heavy metals than AN; and the reason why is because Dyna has more micro's. That's a good thing right? Fact: More micro's more metal. Heavy metal maximums are based on the MICRO-nutient content

Dyna-gro GROW Metals:___10/0.5/0.05/5/1.2 with a 7-9-5 NPK >>>>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612
AN Sensi grow (A) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.1 with a 3-0-0 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15847
AN Sensi grow (B) Metals: 0.5/0.1/0.05/1.2/0.5 with a 2-2-5 NPK >>> http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=15825
AN SENSI GROW, A&B Aggregated : 1/0.2/0.1/2.4/0.6 with a 5-2-5 NPK

Dyno's Arsnic,Lead and nickel are most noteworthy.

HB if you are referring to the lab results in red why would you give it credence? You yourself require valid supportive references and the one shown in red is not. Why would he post "submitted" values which are that of Big Bud liquid when the test results were for Big Bud powder, a much more concentrated formula? So why would I believe any values in this test? That doesn't seem suspicious to you? THe author has an agenda, and that agenda is to sell his book. I have yet to see a cease and desist for AN for heavy metals.
Click to expand...
So how long have you worked for AN? LOL
 
AzCannaMan

AzCannaMan

Active Member
patlpp said:
So your method here is with soil is that correct? Did you buy the PH-perfect line ?
Click to expand...
Yes Soil, No NOT the Ph Perfect lineup.

patlpp said:
Note the "Submitted" levels? Those are for LIQUID big Bud, not the powder which is heavily concentrated. Powder nutes are tested @ 1 gram in 100ml water so naturally the metal levels will be higher. I really suspect this "independant" test. I could not find this test on the Oregon website, i did find the other parts to the post but not this test.

Glad you switched to Dyna-gro to get away from all those evil AN heavy metals. Just one thing though, check out Dyna-gro's heavy metal report, they are WORSE.

http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=610
http://oda.state.or.us/dbs/heavy_metal/detail.lasso?-op=eq&product_id=612

Keep in mind these numbers are 1/3 the concentration of the Big Bud Powder test. It's not like it means they are shit, it just means the more concentrate a fert is , the higher the metal content will be. They test at a specific weight for wet or dry fertilizers for standardization.

The reason dyna-gro metals are high is because they tout they supply ALL micro-nutes and that is where most of the heavy metals are acquired from. Higher micros will result in higher metals, goes hand-in-hand.
Click to expand...
Only use the Dyna on the Moms, as i said in a earlier post. Canna on everything else.

patlpp said:
@AZcanna lets state the N-P-K values of each product. AN suggests 2ml/l for supps and 4ml/l for base. So 2ml = 1 "unit".

Sensi Bloom (a) 3-0-0 x 2 units = 6-0-0
Sensi Bloom (b) 2-4-8 x2 units = 4-8-16
Big Bud 0-1-3 x1 unit = 0-1-3
B-52 2-1-4 x1 unit = 2-1-4

Add them up and you get 12-10-23 or 1.2-1-2.3 This is the recommended N-P-K ratio set forth for PH-perfect in bloom week 3 and 4 (or more depending on flower duration)

When you alter the base dosage yet leave the supps constant, you alter the N-P-K ratio. when you alter the supps dosage yet leave the base constant, you alter the N-P-K ratio.
The only way to do it correctly is to put your base and supps at a 2:1 ratio respectively and measure PPM. If it's too high, you add water, if its too low, you add ALL the nutes at the same 2:1 ratio.

The whole AN PH-Perfect system is getting so misconstrued. Did they not say to disregard the PPM and PH meter? So do it. Do exactly as they say. I talked to numerous techs and the one common thing is to feed them as instructed. YES you will waste nutes BUT, the wasted nutes will do just that , get wasted without burning your plants. The PH is not just the value in the bucket but how it works on the roots also. I am 3/4 of the way through a grow doing this and they are coming along fine, no deficiencies or lockouts. This system is designed as "Plug and Play" for the not so caring, I call it the honey badger system. For a grower who just doesn't give a shit. It serves a purpose. Yes I know I'm wasting nutes, my intuition screams at me but I'm testing this shit out.

One additional note: You must stay with PH-Perfect supps. if you don't you screw up the whole thing. Example. Substitute Rhino skin with ProTeck. You just added a 0-0-3 product for a 0-0-.6 product that is PH-perfect. Your Ph will skyrocket. ANY non-Ph-perfect product will screw it up. I saw it.
Click to expand...
Dude, i wasnt even using the PH perfect line. And FUCK their ph perfect line and NEEDING to use all their supplements to go along with it. There is too many, it's retarded. If the base nutrients were worth half of 1 steamy pile of shit why in the world would you buy 12 -15 MORE things? So you use the whole line up right? Grand Master level, you add like 20:1 additives to base or some shit.

Seriously, you dont see anything wrong with using like 200 Ml of base and 2,000 or more ml of additives in a res change?

patlpp said:
Curious, did you get your money back?
Click to expand...
I didnt, would have been better off sparking a god damn cheech and chong blimp of $75 an eighth shit up instead. :bigjoint:

patlpp said:
Very true HB. The values reiterate Dyna's superiority in it's micro content. I hope you didn't think I was slamming Dyna's metals. Rather , I was bringing to light to @canna that AN's metals are lower, and should not be that much of a determining factor,that's all.
I am really curious when/if the PH-perfect numbers come out. Since AN claims all micro-nutes are in it like Dyna, the metal levels should correspond close to that of Dyna's.

EDIT: I noticed you mention Nickel and I thought I remembered something about it as an essential element but the reason stuck as to why:

http://www.eplantscience.com/botanical_biotechnology_biology_chemistry/plant_nutrition/essential_elements_micronutrients/nickel/conclusion.php

So Nickels role is to aid in the metabolism of urea! In hydro, with nitrates and/or ammoniacal N sources, it is not needed I believe.
Click to expand...
Funny you mention this, AN DOES USE UREA IN THEIR SENSI A&B so in your case, according to your above statement you will be needing that Nickel. Hopefully AN didnt jip you out of it since youll need it to process their urea... Oh wait they probably sell it to you in another bottle which costs $100 for 1L. :razz:
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
The reason I asked you was because the OP of this thread stated that he uses the " Grand Master" which means PH-Perfect. ALso he referenced dosages consistent with PH-Perfect (4ml/2ml) So the discussion is with PH-perfect, not your hair brained mixing method you used with the regular line.
Instead of the stupid slams with words like "Retarded", grow up and just rebutt my statements like a mature individual.

You ask me if I use the Grand Master kit? No, I don't go out on a whim and buy 1,000$ of nutes . I am using the Hobby kit as an experiment.
My post to you was to explain your flaw in your dilution method. No disrespect. I could have called you an asshat in the process but I didn't

As for the urea, nickel is not the sole requirement to metabolize urea. All you need is urease, which is supplied by the bacteria in the medium . Only in extremely high N ratios of urea is the nickel needed.
Urea is not such a bad thing you know, it serves it's purpose. That's why there are 6 billion + people on the planet. You have to keep in mind that the PH line is one for all. If you grow anything outside of a purely inert grow you can process urea. K?



 
AzCannaMan

AzCannaMan

Active Member
Dude, you chiming in here is not helping the case for AN. IMHO they suck. All AN does is take advantage of people who grow Cannabis by having a cool website, neat colorful labels with slutty girls like wet betty, and kushie kush, guys like you that troll around propping their products on sites such as RIU, ans so on and so fourth. Those growers buy into your propaganda and spend excessive amounts of money because the plant we grow makes more money than any other plant. So your trying to wedge in there creating a "specialty" product just for it which costs an arm and a leg. Some people will spend it.

Myself after I switched ill never go back. Funny how AN's way dosent work, but my "Hair Brained" way stopped burning the OP's plants? I like that. The proof is in the pudding buddy, the OP said MY way works numerous times, not yours which is the way that makes the most $ for AN.

So by bringing that up and having me point out all that I think you look a bit foolish now.

There's my rebuttal. Give fat mike my regards.

CannaMan out
 
M

Moon Dog

Member
AzCannaMan said:
I bought into the whole AN lineup and spend over $1,000 my first round... The girls were just okay. Second round I switched to Canna halfway through flower, i shit you not- 24 hours after their first watering they looked healthier than they ever had since inception! The crazy thing is i only used about 4 bottles with Canna... In dirt... Those bottles cost me only 1/4 of the freaking AN lineup! I switched because i was so frustrated with the deficiencies i kept getting. I guess if i were to compare it to a car it would be like buying a Ferrari... Then you drive it home only to realize it's got a gremlin motor under the hood! (Fancy labels, website and marketing for AN, but the product itself... ugh...) If it works for you bro go for it. The excessive levels of heavy metals such as Cadmium, Lead, Arecenic, and whatnot were the nail in the coffin for AN for me forever. I dont want any of that in my meds. Especially when they charge an arm and a nut for the shit...

By the way i aslo justified the extra cost by saying "well if i get x # more zips..." yeah. In the end it is still like 50x more $ than other stuff if you buy all the additives.



Thank you sir! I am trying to be helpful, ive posted what I found to be the best way to use AN in this thread. yes, you really should start from the beginning! Good Call!



My thoughts exactly, why do you need 15 bottles of shit to make the base work? If the base dosent work then how much stock can you put in the rest of the lineup? The answer is none for me.



Do like me and switch to Canna mid flower if you want to see your jaw drop. Your only regret will be not doing so earlier. Glad the Cal/Mg is helping...



I think the fact AN blows donkey dick is well evedinced by your AN vs Dynagrow AK47 grow. If thats the one im thinking of AN is clearly the looser. And it's just base to base comparison.
Click to expand...
So which Canna products are you using that you are so happy with? Like to give it a try. I'll be honest I'm happy with my yield versus input cost but I ALWAYS keep an open mind if it will help me improve quality or yield.
The dude who works for Advanced does have one thing right. They dumbed down the recipe. I think it is a good thing for newbies to get a good result without any guess work. I use much less in the beginning than is listed on the bottles to make the most of my spend , which you would not know if you just bought it at the shop and no one tells you. That said I would be stoked to get 6-700gms per 1000w with 4 bottles!
 
patlpp

patlpp

New Member
AzCannaMan said:
Dude, you chiming in here is not helping the case for AN. IMHO they suck. All AN does is take advantage of people who grow Cannabis by having a cool website, neat colorful labels with slutty girls like wet betty, and kushie kush, guys like you that troll around propping their products on sites such as RIU, ans so on and so fourth. Those growers buy into your propaganda and spend excessive amounts of money because the plant we grow makes more money than any other plant. So your trying to wedge in there creating a "specialty" product just for it which costs an arm and a leg. Some people will spend it.

Myself after I switched ill never go back. Funny how AN's way dosent work, but my "Hair Brained" way stopped burning the OP's plants? I like that. The proof is in the pudding buddy, the OP said MY way works numerous times, not yours which is the way that makes the most $ for AN.

So by bringing that up and having me point out all that I think you look a bit foolish now.

There's my rebuttal. Give fat mike my regards.

CannaMan out
Click to expand...
Same old AN slams. It's old. Please. If you read my past posts , I'm not a AN robot. I'm trying to be as impartial as I can but you are the one who came out with the same old high metal mislabel bullshit that I just replied. point-counterpoint.
You are just mad because you bought a $1000 of nutes and failed. Yes, blame the nutes. ITS GOTTA BE THE NUTES. A good grower adapts, you failed. LOL $1000 no refund. I'm pissing my pants as I type
 
AzCannaMan

AzCannaMan

Active Member
Moon Dog said:
So which Canna products are you using that you are so happy with? Like to give it a try. I'll be honest I'm happy with my yield versus input cost but I ALWAYS keep an open mind if it will help me improve quality or yield.
The dude who works for Advanced does have one thing right. They dumbed down the recipe. I think it is a good thing for newbies to get a good result without any guess work. I use much less in the beginning than is listed on the bottles to make the most of my spend , which you would not know if you just bought it at the shop and no one tells you. That said I would be stoked to get 6-700gms per 1000w with 4 bottles!
Click to expand...
I switched from Sensi A & B to substra. With Canna you really choose your base based on your media and they only have 3 optinal additives. The reason for so few is they say they will only release things which they believe actually help the plants. I've used the Substra, Bio, and I'm about to start on Canna Coco A & B base nutrients. All have been excellent!

Basically you choose the right base for your media, and I would use at a minimum the Rhizotonic which is super amazing stuff, and the PK 13/14.

The Rhizo is for the roots and seriously makes an enormous difference. The first time i gave it to my moms it was very apparent they loved it! The price is not cheap, but not super expensive either.

The Pk is used during bloom as the booster as the plants only need a boost of PK for around a week. You can use starting a little early and ending a little late to be sure and hit that 1 week window and it's very cheap stuff price wise. It's just P & K not fancy naked kush girls or anything...

The Boost is the flavor/quality booster. It's kinda pricy but covers the rest of everything you could want.

And they have a Zym produce like everyone else as well..

But I love their base nutes, their additives are straight forward and work very well and I dont work for Canna! Plus not having to mix 15 things is nice ;)
 
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