LED Companies w/ LINKS
- Thread starter Beefbisquit
- Start date
superhigh3
Active Member
Sorry if I said 1k earlier but I've really just been meaning my 600w hps.
superhigh3
Active Member
Oh. Nope. I don't necessarily grow for yield but my wife smokes like Bob Marley. So id hate to blow 1k and yield less than I do now. I don't weigh my harvests these days but im looking for comparable results.
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superhigh3
Active Member
What's so difficult about shopping for an led is I have no idea what company I should believe. I've heard it all "this matters"... "No it matters how many watts it has" "oh those are crap..you want a 3w led bulb fixture those are only 2w per bulb" yadida blah blah.
I just don't want to play the order and send it back game especially when return shipping is probably on me. Plus restocking fee etc etc
I just don't want to play the order and send it back game especially when return shipping is probably on me. Plus restocking fee etc etc
superhigh3
Active Member
I was just hoping someone was here to Say "I had a 600w hps and switched to this and it works at least just as well".
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Scotch089
Well-Known Member
You want transparency. And unfortunately companies are very good at twisting things around. Not blatantly lying. But twisting the facts to their advantage. "We use genuine cree leds" sure. Mabe they do. But not every led (color) in the panel, just the blues or reds. Or we have the special spectrum. Leds were raised on being efficient because they target the important wavelengths. Well. If that were true then why is hps still kicking ass with its shitty spectrum? Leds are just a more efficient light source in their own. As long as they're quality components.
Look for high efficiency drivers. Thick heatsinks. Bin numbers of the leds. And stay away from monochrome special sauce spectrums. Only a couple companies still rock monochrome as most of their light and can still come out on top. And advanced is not one of em. I don't like their new xte panels, no one should use that much blue:white ratio.
Look for cree with the bin numbers so you can personally go and look in the datasheet to see what "tier" they are. Look for a good hardy heatsink and nice fans. Hell even the SGS160's heatsink isn't all that beefy compared to diy or the AT200s but I am ASSUMING they calculated it to cool properly - my only qualm is I would prefer something that could compensate for a short amount of time if a fan goes out.
Seriously though. I would highly suggest building one. That way YOU KNOW how much time effort and money went into making sure it runs how it's supposed to, so YOU KNOW how likely it is to fail, so you know what parts make it what it is. And so you know exactly how to fix it if you do accidently not wire something as well as you should have instead of relying on somebody else's word. It's intimidating at first but it is so much easier than it seems. That's why there is such a wide market for these lights, anyone can build em. Especially when you pay a sweat shop to build em with shitty components.
DIYs can be upwards of 50% efficient, for every watt of light Dissipated a watt of heat is generated. Where a Chinese rebrand like advanced, could be as low as 20% efficient. Sure they're using a more efficient light source (selling point) but they're sacrificing what tier of light source (whether cree or not) to spread that margin wider and wider.
THE ONLY companies I know have a PEROSNAL preference, or borderline OCD "must do" attitude about using the best of the best. Are apache tech and area 51, and coming up- a fellow growers' company that is about to come out. Which is what I would point you too because he WILL ALWAYS be using the latest, and TRULY greatest tech he can get his hands on. No sacrificing of bins to keep the brand name- literally the best.
All of these companies are transitioning (except at) to cree COBS because they see and know the potential from the math and results. But be wary- because there are already no name rebrands out there using the brand name to sell shitty lights. Ie- Cree CX Panel that isn't even using cree cxa-anythings.
Look for high efficiency drivers. Thick heatsinks. Bin numbers of the leds. And stay away from monochrome special sauce spectrums. Only a couple companies still rock monochrome as most of their light and can still come out on top. And advanced is not one of em. I don't like their new xte panels, no one should use that much blue:white ratio.
Look for cree with the bin numbers so you can personally go and look in the datasheet to see what "tier" they are. Look for a good hardy heatsink and nice fans. Hell even the SGS160's heatsink isn't all that beefy compared to diy or the AT200s but I am ASSUMING they calculated it to cool properly - my only qualm is I would prefer something that could compensate for a short amount of time if a fan goes out.
Seriously though. I would highly suggest building one. That way YOU KNOW how much time effort and money went into making sure it runs how it's supposed to, so YOU KNOW how likely it is to fail, so you know what parts make it what it is. And so you know exactly how to fix it if you do accidently not wire something as well as you should have instead of relying on somebody else's word. It's intimidating at first but it is so much easier than it seems. That's why there is such a wide market for these lights, anyone can build em. Especially when you pay a sweat shop to build em with shitty components.
DIYs can be upwards of 50% efficient, for every watt of light Dissipated a watt of heat is generated. Where a Chinese rebrand like advanced, could be as low as 20% efficient. Sure they're using a more efficient light source (selling point) but they're sacrificing what tier of light source (whether cree or not) to spread that margin wider and wider.
THE ONLY companies I know have a PEROSNAL preference, or borderline OCD "must do" attitude about using the best of the best. Are apache tech and area 51, and coming up- a fellow growers' company that is about to come out. Which is what I would point you too because he WILL ALWAYS be using the latest, and TRULY greatest tech he can get his hands on. No sacrificing of bins to keep the brand name- literally the best.
All of these companies are transitioning (except at) to cree COBS because they see and know the potential from the math and results. But be wary- because there are already no name rebrands out there using the brand name to sell shitty lights. Ie- Cree CX Panel that isn't even using cree cxa-anythings.
JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
360watt opticlighting vero or cxa or cxb $900 that's would be a true 600watt replacement 3k or maybe 4k if u go vero, but I would go cxb!
puffenuff
Well-Known Member
I have an apache tech at200 and area 51 sgs160 in a 2x4. I also have a few other lamps not in use at the moment. I could get nice results with just either one of those lights but I went for overkill. I've also used all the advanced led line up except for the xte series as well as kessils. Like scotch said, Apache tech or area51 are legit. So is building your own. It's just unfortunate that the best LEDs can get pricey.
Hgrow
Active Member
[QUOTE="Scotch089, post: 11624496, member: 348245"
Look for high efficiency drivers. Thick heatsinks. Bin numbers of the leds. And stay away from monochrome special sauce spectrums. Only a couple companies still rock monochrome as most of their light and can still come out on top.
Look for cree with the bin numbers so you can personally go and look in the datasheet to see what "tier" they are. Look for a good hardy heatsink and nice fans. Hell even the SGS160's heatsink isn't all that beefy compared to diy or the AT200s but I am ASSUMING they calculated it to cool properly - my only qualm is I would prefer something that could compensate for a short amount of time if a fan goes out. .[/QUOTE]
Yeah ,high efficienvy drivers ,thick heatsinks ,high quality led chips are key for a good led light .
Look for high efficiency drivers. Thick heatsinks. Bin numbers of the leds. And stay away from monochrome special sauce spectrums. Only a couple companies still rock monochrome as most of their light and can still come out on top.
Look for cree with the bin numbers so you can personally go and look in the datasheet to see what "tier" they are. Look for a good hardy heatsink and nice fans. Hell even the SGS160's heatsink isn't all that beefy compared to diy or the AT200s but I am ASSUMING they calculated it to cool properly - my only qualm is I would prefer something that could compensate for a short amount of time if a fan goes out. .[/QUOTE]
Yeah ,high efficienvy drivers ,thick heatsinks ,high quality led chips are key for a good led light .
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
superhigh3
Active Member
You Guys really have given Me some things to learn as well as look into. A lot of your cob and whatnot left me scratching my head. I really have no serious experience with led or electricity in general so ill get to reading
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superhigh3
Active Member
I saw their highest was about 1k in their vero line. Is that not their expensive ones?
Anyways. So far I think I like this company best. Im glad they let you know what watt hps it's capable of competing with. Sadly I haven't seen many actually using them to grow on a quick Google search.
Ill definitely look into these guys more. Do you use them? Or just a suggestion more so than a recommendation?
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Lol...good call. Lots of stirring up lately...hahah.
Another company!? Sheesh...sh@ts about to get crazy.
Let me rub my crystal balls again to forsee the future....
Another company!? Sheesh...sh@ts about to get crazy.
Let me rub my crystal balls again to forsee the future....
JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
what made you choose the vero18?
JimmyIndica
Well-Known Member
200watt optic vero29 3k is a fixture I use at the moment. I will pick up a 360watt optic cxb3070 3k 80 in the next few weeks most likely? That is unless I decide to run a 1000watt platinum hortilux/raptor run!
superhigh3
Active Member
Would you say it's really equal to a 400hps as they claim?
If so I might look into getting a vero (whatever watt it is) to replace a 600.
How hot would you say the one you have gets? Im sure the 600watt hps equivalent will run hotter but ill have a good idea.
If you ran it in a tent would you say it's a must to pump in a/c air or even outside air? Or do you think you'd get by just circulating air/using inline fans just too keep the hot air moving away from the light?
AquariusPanta
Well-Known Member
It will make more sense once I begin sharing pictures and videos
.OpticalEngineer
Member
Have any of you guys used Transcend Lighting?
www.transcendlighting.com
I saw one of their lights in a store in New York and the store owner was raving about it. Claims to replace a 600W HPS and costs $999. I was told it works awesome for a 3x3
www.transcendlighting.com
I saw one of their lights in a store in New York and the store owner was raving about it. Claims to replace a 600W HPS and costs $999. I was told it works awesome for a 3x3
