Is this root rot

Pool shock is fine if used properly and if maintaining a sterile res. I have been using bleach last little while and it did help. Do some research and decide what is best for you. I have heard pondzyme works well but use microblift pl myself. Temps are the key I believe and keeping them at 65 is I believe optimal.

Also if the roots are not clumping and still have little secondary root hairs then most likely it's staining. If you keep an eye on them and the plants are thriving then assume all is good. It happens quickly if it happens .

I put her in coco so I will never know the outcome. The roots defiantly had the root hairs, they don't link rooted. What concerned me was the demitrus, but that could have been from the enzymes breaking down any dead roots. I just was there could be someone who could defiantly say the roots were fine.

gand3r said:

I put her in coco so I will never know the outcome. The roots defiantly had the root hairs, they don't link rooted. What concerned me was the demitrus, but that could have been from the enzymes breaking down any dead roots. I just was there could be someone who could defiantly say the roots were fine.

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They looked fine actually but the one pic looked like the middle was clumping. If you notice the leaves getting blotchy check the roots.

Root rot will have a very thin layer of slime on them. And if you touch the roots hardly at all, the fall right off.

Which is what you should be doing to rotten and infected roots.

If you have the dreaded slime, don't go shocking the shit out of then with chlorine bleach, h2o2 or whatever.

Navigate to og biowars website, buy a pack of the root and foliar benies and follow the directions on the site for brewing tea. The difference will SHOCK you. Dwc plants love tea, fucking love it.

There is a coupon code for those in the know that gets you like 30% off. I think it's farmer... let me know if that doesn't work, I have it in an email somewhere.

legallyflying said:

Root rot will have a very thin layer of slime on them. And if you touch the roots hardly at all, the fall right off.

Which is what you should be doing to rotten and infected roots.

If you have the dreaded slime, don't go shocking the shit out of then with chlorine bleach, h2o2 or whatever.

Navigate to og biowars website, buy a pack of the root and foliar benies and follow the directions on the site for brewing tea. The difference will SHOCK you. Dwc plants love tea, fucking love it.

There is a coupon code for those in the know that gets you like 30% off. I think it's farmer... let me know if that doesn't work, I have it in an email somewhere.

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Yes they seem to like it but I got the rot using them after thinking they were they greatest thing since sliced bread. I switched to beans last year after running a sterile red for three years, this is the first time having root issues and I attribute it to something surviving my initial sterilizing of system using bleach. Temps were allowed to get and remain over 70. All this, I believe, led to a major outbreak. Beans are not touching it, so far bleach seems to be the only thing that brings the roots back and am going to switch back today after a refill. I have ordered hydro guard to try but it's gonna be two weeks. The thing is once you get the rot it's a uphill struggle as I have been battling this thing for 3 weeks now lol.

legallyflying said:

Root rot will have a very thin layer of slime on them. And if you touch the roots hardly at all, the fall right off.

Which is what you should be doing to rotten and infected roots.

If you have the dreaded slime, don't go shocking the shit out of then with chlorine bleach, h2o2 or whatever.

Navigate to og biowars website, buy a pack of the root and foliar benies and follow the directions on the site for brewing tea. The difference will SHOCK you. Dwc plants love tea, fucking love it.

There is a coupon code for those in the know that gets you like 30% off. I think it's farmer... let me know if that doesn't work, I have it in an email somewhere.

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hey,

thanks for checking in here, its appreciated.,

Whats your opinion on the pictures in the first post, is that something that looks like good benifical bacteria occupying the root zone or something bad like rot or slime?

Gonna hijack this thread since i'm having pretty much the same thing.

Hydro plants are growing slow as hell. I have an organic 3x3 in bloom right now looking top notch so i'm not too concerned if I'll have to restart these plants with new clones. This is my first time in hydro, running a water chiller and everything.

Using great white and CX hydroponics nute line

Hey,

your welcome into this thread, as is anyone else who is unsure if they have root issues.

Whats your temps and what strength EC/PPM of the water?

The brown tinge is similar to what i had in the earlier posts. If i was you i would continue as you are, my reason for saying this is the roots are not slimy and they are crisp along with the root hairs.

How high are you having the water to the net pot, is it touching or just blow?

gand3r said:

Hey,

your welcome into this thread, as is anyone else who is unsure if they have root issues.

Whats your temps and what strength EC/PPM of the water?

The brown tinge is similar to what i had in the earlier posts. If i was you i would continue as you are, my reason for saying this is the roots are not slimy and they are crisp along with the root hairs.

How high are you having the water to the net pot, is it touching or just blow?

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Water temp is 63f, PPM is about 1100 but my well water starts at like 500.

I have a RO system that i got right when I built this system but I havent had anywhere to set it up; i'll be setting it up for next res change. My nute line pretty much always runs high PPM; CX hydroponics is a very unique line. That being said once I get my RO i'll probably run my PPM at 600-800 until they get bigger.

My water is pretty much just touching the bottom of the pots.

I have a lot of extra plants to fall back on if I cant get this to work, but I invested about $1500 in my RDWC, chiller, nutes, blue lab ppm/tds/temp meter and a bunch of other things so I definitely want to use it this run; but as you can see I just have a bunch of other clones sitting around in the same tent for now hah.

CX Hydroponics uses "hot mix technology"

"
Hot Mix Technology
What do you mean when you talk about “Hot Mix Technology”?

Hot Mix Technology uses the latest organic and synthetic chemical reactions to create
combined hydroponic nutrient and additive compounds. This could not normally occur from conventional methods and as a result these compounds are much more stable in solution.
Ordinarily, the normal method of nutrient manufacture is to simply dissolve a few chemicals in water. However, Hot Mix Technology forges a complete fused nutrient that is balanced and more reliable under poor conditions. Furthermore, when the plants take up these fused compounds, they release far more energy to the plant than free ions alone. In other words, you will get a lot more from CX Hydroponics, making it excellent value for your money."


This is my organic tent

GemuGrows said:

Gonna hijack this thread since i'm having pretty much the same thing.

Hydro plants are growing slow as hell. I have an organic 3x3 in bloom right now looking top notch so i'm not too concerned if I'll have to restart these plants with new clones. This is my first time in hydro, running a water chiller and everything.

Using great white and CX hydroponics nute line

Click to expand...

Looking at those images, I changed my blue air lines to black air lines and added a grommet where the air line goes into the bucket, and wrapped the buckets with that roll insulation. My air line is on the side of the bucket. I can guarantee you are getting some light in each of those buckets where the air line goes in. Can't say that is 100% the problem though. If you are having a problem with Great White not keeping the bad bacteria at bay, my method is to use h202 for 2 treatments (3ml/gal) over like 24 hrs or so. I also make sure to top feed w/ h2o2 solution a couple times. After All bacteria is dead, and h202 has evaporated, introduce your good bacteria again (great white). I use hydroguard which is similar, working very well. I check the roots every day and they are nice and white. The idea is to wipe out all the bad bacteria then add your force of good bacteria so the bad bacteria can never grow in mass again. If you are using a chiller as well, this should work, has for me a few times. I don't know if this is common or not, but the roots have a sort of 'mint' smell to them. It might just be the hydroguard/nutes. At this point, in my system, I can actually smell if there is a problem with the root system. It will smell kinda funky.


This image was from a few weeks ago, right now the roots have taken up the entire 5 gal bucket they are in.

blackforest said:

Looking at those images, I changed my blue air lines to black air lines and added a grommet where the air line goes into the bucket, and wrapped the buckets with that roll insulation. My air line is on the side of the bucket. I can guarantee you are getting some light in each of those buckets where the air line goes in. Can't say that is 100% the problem though. If you are having a problem with Great White not keeping the bad bacteria at bay, my method is to use h202 for 2 treatments (3ml/gal) over like 24 hrs or so. I also make sure to top feed w/ h2o2 solution a couple times. After All bacteria is dead, and h202 has evaporated, introduce your good bacteria again (great white). I use hydroguard which is similar, working very well. I check the roots every day and they are nice and white. The idea is to wipe out all the bad bacteria then add your force of good bacteria so the bad bacteria can never grow in mass again. If you are using a chiller as well, this should work, has for me a few times. I don't know if this is common or not, but the roots have a sort of 'mint' smell to them. It might just be the hydroguard/nutes. At this point, in my system, I can actually smell if there is a problem with the root system. It will smell kinda funky.

View attachment 3550410
This image was from a few weeks ago, right now the roots have taken up the entire 5 gal bucket they are in.

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Good tip on the black air lines ill probably do it.

I'm using hydroguard and great white, i know they are both microbes; but should I not use them together?

If the problem seems to get bad i'll use some h2o2 and re innoculate; does that work well?

GemuGrows said:

Good tip on the black air lines ill probably do it.

I'm using hydroguard and great white, i know they are both microbes; but should I not use them together?

If the problem seems to get bad i'll use some h2o2 and re innoculate; does that work well?

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if all that fails like did for me you can convert your system to tea i use 6 5 gal. buckets... not a rdwc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191226121309?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

GemuGrows said:

Good tip on the black air lines ill probably do it.

I'm using hydroguard and great white, i know they are both microbes; but should I not use them together?

If the problem seems to get bad i'll use some h2o2 and re innoculate; does that work well?

Click to expand...

I would stick with it mate, the great white and hydroguard will be enough. How do the roots look now, got a new picture?

Yeah dawg. U can zoom in on these pics

The plant looks happy, the roots are not clumping together and they are still growing pearly white. I would carry on as you are... Can I ask that you post pics of the roots each week or when u can so it keeps a nice record of the outcome.

A couple things.

"Hot nutes or whatever" is complete bullshit. If they are so rad then why is the high ppm needed? Organic? What is organic in the nutes? Because hydro and organic don't mix well... at ALL. Since we started mixing our own nutes I can't believe the money I wasted on store bought jugs. I did LOTS of research before hand but now it's a very interesting and fun part of growing.

Get that ro system up. 700 from the well is high.. could be lots of heavy metals.. when added to the micro nute m3tals, can cause some serious issues with lock out and deficiency.

Sounds like you have good gear, and that is a big part of it. When people saym. My water is 72 or whatever I usually stop reading. If your not going to take it seriously, then why should I waste my time trying to help? I mean.. you KNOW it can't be that hot.

Great white and other aqua shit can be used together. They have different things in them.

Research is your friend, your best friend. Get a notebook and start putting everything in it. Google and find out what your nute percentages are, write down the SPECIES in your benies.. call and email manufacturers. All the info is out there, you just need to learn what is what. Read white papers or posts from the guys running bigger commercial operations.

My number one answer when asked "what is the hardest part about learning to grow" is " sifting through all the hype and bullshit from sellers and bad advice handed down from newbs"

Lastly. The biggest diagnostic for.. oh shit, I have problems is the roots clumping together I'm light brown masses.. slime or not. It will look like a clump of wet hair. Rot attacKS the sheath around the roots and they will clump together in limp fragile clumps

Cheers

Oh yeah.. gemu, LOWER YOUR WATER. you have enough roots now.. 1" below bottom of net pot is what your shooting for.

Mid flower lower another inch or two

Cheers

legallyflying said:

My water is 72 or whatever I usually stop reading. If your not going to take it seriously, then why should I waste my time trying to help? I mean.. you KNOW it can't be that hot.

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Perhaps the nute delivery method plays a role in maximum nute temps?

This is why I wonder about that:

In my cloner / pre-veg rig----I run the pump 15 seconds on----15 minutes off. Since the roots are suspended and sprayed with a fine mist----I consider this TRUE aeroponics.







I'm not suggesting running that warm----I agree ~68 is ideal. But why would I run another chiller unless I need to in this application?

A~~~

True aeroponics can only be achieved by droplet size in the 50 micron or less range, high pressure is needed with the proper misting heads. Anything less is a spray setup. I have thought about switching and have the booster pump but just to much to go wrong lol.