Introducing CobKits.com - specializing in DIY and Citizen COBs

pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
spend a little more and upgrade the cobs too!


Humanrob said:
@CobKits -- I have a pair of Optic 120's, they run two Vero 18's at 60w each. They were built in 2015, so after this grow I want to rebuild them with passive heatsinks (since the fans are within enclosed cases I probably wouldn't know if one failed until after the cob was burned out).

For economy sake I'd like to reuse the drivers, which would mean I'd continue running them at 60w each.

Question: What size passive heatsink would you recommend? Let me know if you think there are any issues with continuing to run them at 60w on passive heatsinks.

Thanks :)
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Humanrob

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
spend a little more and upgrade the cobs too!
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that would defeat the purpose

I'm trying to recycle and continue using all parts that operate, and hopefully just eliminate the old heatsink/fan combination. I already have more lights than I need, I can hardly even justify spending the money on more heatsinks... But I will. :)

:peace:
 
D

Dave455

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
Black Dog is way over priced and far from the best. If I were to spend the money for a high end commercial light, I'd buy a Fluence. One of the top 2 or 3 lights made at a much better price than black Dog.

But I can kick all their asses with cobs and or QB lights!
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Timber in 2.00 per watt range on fixtures....at high side vs. quantum boards
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
Humanrob said:
@CobKits -- I have a pair of Optic 120's, they run two Vero 18's at 60w each. They were built in 2015, so after this grow I want to rebuild them with passive heatsinks (since the fans are within enclosed cases I probably wouldn't know if one failed until after the cob was burned out).

For economy sake I'd like to reuse the drivers, which would mean I'd continue running them at 60w each.

Question: What size passive heatsink would you recommend? Let me know if you think there are any issues with continuing to run them at 60w on passive heatsinks.

Thanks :)
Click to expand...
id have to look at the drilling for vero 18, not sure if i have compatible heatsinks fo rthose. i think tehy are 35mm spacing but could be wrong

60W is fine for passive heatsinks
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
Timber makes great lights. However, QB can equal them or any light when set up properly, the spread is better and no hotspots. I run cobs in one tent and QB in all the others. The QBs are every bit the equal of cobs and are more efficient. Claims of grams/watt are meaningless, its a combination of proper growroom design, nutrients and grower skill. Growmau5 pulled 1.86 gpw with Cree 2530 cobs........ I'll guarantee you the average grower is NOT pulling down 2.0 gpw with any light you can name.

Dave455 said:
Timber in 2.00 per watt range on fixtures....at high side vs. quantum boards
Click to expand...
 
Humanrob

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
CobKits said:
id have to look at the drilling for vero 18, not sure if i have compatible heatsinks fo rthose. i think tehy are 35mm spacing but could be wrong

60W is fine for passive heatsinks
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If you don't have one pre-drilled, I understand. My first builds were with PC heatsinks and drilling and tapping was the hardest part of the build, so I'm pretty sure if this came down to me having to DIY drill one, I'd find another solution.

For now I found that I was able to remove the lid from one and I'll do the same to the other. At least now I can see the fans and I'll know if one stops spinning, and the area-fan I keep in the upper part of the tent to keep air moving over my passive sinks will also hit this unit. In the big picture it might be easier to replace a heatsink-fan should one fail, rather than rebuild the lights... at least now I might know if I need to do that before its too late.

03.02.18_topless-optic.jpg
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
pop22 said:
The QBs are every bit the equal of cobs and are more efficient.
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depends on the number (and type of) of cobs and boards you use. they are the same phosphor white tech and either can achieve same efficiency levels when run soft
 
BecauseIgotHigh

BecauseIgotHigh

Well-Known Member
No one buying 3590 anymore?

I love how ppl are saying QBs perform good. Sarcasm*

Any light performs great under a scrog... and it annoys the crap out of me. If you veg it long enough, you will yield great and all.. blah blah and quality is top notch lol... no shit. If you keep temps under 29 celcius, your quality will be great..

Best bud i ever had was grown outdoor. Blue shark is the strain. Cured for one year.
I had the whole town go nuts for me... and when ppl say my bud was decent.. lol, please bro why call me up all the time then?

Has anyone tried a sog yet? I want to see tests of cobs or QB, under SOG.. not SCROG.
 
InTheValley

InTheValley

Well-Known Member
and that is leaf temp, not air temp. Harder to get leaf to 29c then it seems,lol.. Ive had my area at 85f, and still leaf was at 81f
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
BecauseIgotHigh said:
No one buying 3590 anymore?

I love how ppl are saying QBs perform good. Sarcasm*

Any light performs great under a scrog... and it annoys the crap out of me. If you veg it long enough, you will yield great and all.. blah blah and quality is top notch lol... no shit. If you keep temps under 29 celcius, your quality will be great..

Best bud i ever had was grown outdoor. Blue shark is the strain. Cured for one year.
I had the whole town go nuts for me... and when ppl say my bud was decent.. lol, please bro why call me up all the time then?

Has anyone tried a sog yet? I want to see tests of cobs or QB, under SOG.. not SCROG.
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Just take some time to look around here in the LED section. Plenty of SOGs. Impressive SOGs.
 
K

kaivorth

Active Member
So I currently have 2 HLG-185H-48B's

I have a friend who wants to try out this COB lighting. What would you recommend? Efficiency isn't the biggest deal, just had to work for 4-5 plants. Trying to keep cost down if possible.
 
H

hour

Well-Known Member
Is there any obvious component I can replace inside a Meanwell 480H-C1400 (or.. a reset switch? Yeah, I'm dreaming)

I set up a 9 COB (CLU048-1212's) light on a single 480H-C1400 and it ran well for two or three weeks. I opened my flowering tent at some point during the flower cycle and the light was simply off despite the timer being on. Determined timer was still operational, fans were still spinning on the heatsinks, all soldering was still solid (and protected by kapton tape), etc.

Pissed, I took the light out and abandoned that tent for a while. A few days ago I ordered another identical driver and swapped it in, no issues, lit up immediately.

Not sure what killed the original driver since it was stationary and had been chugging along without issue. I still hear a tap/clunk inside the original driver when I plug it in. But at least I know it's not my soldering and that all my wire runs are still solid.
 
nc208

nc208

Well-Known Member
hour said:
Is there any obvious component I can replace inside a Meanwell 480H-C1400 (or.. a reset switch? Yeah, I'm dreaming)

I set up a 9 COB (CLU048-1212's) light on a single 480H-C1400 and it ran well for two or three weeks. I opened my flowering tent at some point during the flower cycle and the light was simply off despite the timer being on. Determined timer was still operational, fans were still spinning on the heatsinks, all soldering was still solid (and protected by kapton tape), etc.

Pissed, I took the light out and abandoned that tent for a while. A few days ago I ordered another identical driver and swapped it in, no issues, lit up immediately.

Not sure what killed the original driver since it was stationary and had been chugging along without issue. I still hear a tap/clunk inside the original driver when I plug it in. But at least I know it's not my soldering and that all my wire runs are still solid.
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Email Mean Well if your sure its the driver, they should replace it.
 
CobKits

CobKits

Well-Known Member
just go thru your distributor

those failures are pretty rare. id triple check your wiring first. maybe there was something else obvious you overlooked that fixed itself when swapping the driver
 
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