Hydrogardens.com Dry Nutrient Lovers Unite!

Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
MichiganMedGrower said:
That is not true for even hybrid soil grows. I don't feed in veg. There is plenty of breakdown going on or they would not get through stretch without help. The soil is still feeding when I start my nutes.

But alkalinity is the key to soil growing. With my well water I need ammonium more than nitrate or my soil will end up alkyline. Nutes are supposed to balance out your water.

To use a brand name example. As I have been using up all the different bottles I bought as a newbie. Botanicare kind is 3 part with the base being calcium nitrate only. The rest is in the grow or bloom. Good stuff except it works better with my old house really soft water which didn't have much calcium in it. The nitrate balanced it out.

Pure blend pro and fox farm trio expect tap water use and are formulated to be a bit acidic.

That is why there are so many formulations of fertilizer. The fert company tests your water and or soil and recommends the proper ratio. It really means how neutral acidic or alkaline the mix is and how it will affect your medium over time.

It is not just the numbers in the plant tissue everyone is talking about that makes 312 the preferred foliage plant ratio of NPK. It may not be right for you. It needs to be formulated with the right elements for your specific garden.

Someone please correct me if I understand this wrong.
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What? NO, it's not!

Botanicare KIND is formulated to not require added Ca

Nice catch on the "TAP" water.

The rest is more "assumptive" and not exactly true in practice!
 
MisterBlah

MisterBlah

Well-Known Member
RM3 said:
I'm just gonna say no here even though it's not the complete answer but truth is I'm tired of this nonsense, folks hatin folks because they are different or do things differently seems to be the new Merican way in all things, such a waste of time. We should ALL be workin together to improve the herb, a tip here, a technique there. Instead there is this constant arguing and debate and myth ridden bro science that simply won't die
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I'm not hatin. The point I'm making is that it really isn't research unless you meticulously document everything and present the data. It doesn't have to be published in a journal, but it does have to be well documented and available for all of use to read in one place.

We're all here trying to do our best.

The reason why we constantly argue and debate bullshit is largely because there isn't any proper documentation. There's pictures here and pictures there grown with some fertilizer in some place. No real measurements. It's all anecdotal evidence. And that just doesn't cut it. We will all argue about anecdotal evidence until the end of days.
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
MisterBlah said:
I'm not hatin. The point I'm making is that it really isn't research unless you meticulously document everything and present the data. It doesn't have to be published in a journal, but it does have to be well documented and available for all of use to read in one place.

We're all here trying to do our best.

The reason why we constantly argue and debate bullshit is largely because there isn't any proper documentation. There's pictures here and pictures there grown with some fertilizer in some place. No real measurements. It's all anecdotal evidence. And that just doesn't cut it. We will all argue about anecdotal evidence until the end of days.
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My first book teaches medical patients how to get the most out of plant count limitations, I pulled a lb from 2 plants under 2 400 watt CMH's and showed step by step how

In the 2nd book I was searching for a certain kind of high and I found it and shared exactly how.

Both books teach my different way of drying & curing
 
MisterBlah

MisterBlah

Well-Known Member
RM3 said:
My first book teaches medical patients how to get the most out of plant count limitations, I pulled a lb from 2 plants under 2 400 watt CMH's and showed step by step how
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Well, a step ahead of most people, so that's awesome.

Do you document the nitrogen or phosphorus or potassium concentrations of your soils, media, or water? Or for any other nutrient?
Do you have documentation on environmental conditions at least by the hour?
Do you have total biomass measurements or just cut flower dry mass? Any root mass measurements?

Or is the book just an instruction set?
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
MisterBlah said:
Well, a step ahead of most people, so that's awesome.

Do you document the nitrogen or phosphorus or potassium concentrations of your soils, media, or water? Or for any other nutrient?
Do you have documentation on environmental conditions at least by the hour?
Do you have total biomass measurements or just cut flower dry mass? Any root mass measurements?

Or is the book just an instruction set?
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Used Jack's & Alfalfa tea
soiless medium
I explain how to set up the environment
wet & dry weights of flowers & trim
mostly an instruction set with a few techniques
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Dr. Who said:
What? NO, it's not!

Botanicare KIND is formulated to not require added Ca

Nice catch on the "TAP" water.

The rest is more "assumptive" and not exactly true in practice!
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I was saying kind had too much calcium for my soil and water. And I now get rising Ph from the well water where I had even softer water at my old house.

I could add acid but the right way is to use the proper nutes.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
And I apologize. I did not mean an organic grow. I add mineral based fertilizer or hybrid part organic and treat my last 6 to 12 weeks like a soiless grow. I have read much and catching the ammonium to nitrate balance has helped here.

I just like the convenience of water only in veg as I have all my plants in different stages and feed each one individually.

Please help me learn more if I am misunderstanding. I always ph'd my water for the first couple years and screwed things up. Probably the extra potassium in the ph down.

When I started using soil nutes with no calcium I had deficiencies. When I used kind I had burns.

When I use one with balanced forms of nitrogen. Green and growing.

So I was asking. What dry mix ?
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
RM3 said:
Folks tend to forget (might be a stoner thing) I've been postin and teachin new growers here for years.
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RM3 said:
my 1st journaled grow here where I pulled 1.5 oz's with just 97 watts of flouro
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So you yielded 42g and this is supposed to be a noteworthy grow? Bro... I yielded 310g from 193W in a 4x2.

Folks don't forget you. Who wouldn't be impressed by 0.43g/W. Buy his book tonight and you can learn to copy his noteworthy results. (long story short, sell your HPS and buy T5)
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
And dry nutes are cheaper than water bottles, @MichiganMedGrower so why change?

And I walked away from HPS lamps long ago, I'll be all LED very shortly.

The sad fact is that this industry is full of ignorant consumers who believe the blatant bullshit sold to them by hydro stores and the distribution companies that move the product.

There's too much bro science and not enough of the real thing.

@RM3's techniques are supported by what the rest of the ag industry does in similar circumstances. Ever wonder why pot is marketed is a 'different' plant? It's just so they can better rip off the under informed consumers common in this industry.
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You are a hypocrite for not using T5 yourself. Ditch the cobs and get T5. Quit being such a hypocrite. T5's should be smashed... Fuck T5. Etc.
 
RM3

RM3

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
You are a hypocrite for not using T5 yourself. Ditch the cobs and get T5. Quit being such a hypocrite. T5's should be smashed... Fuck T5. Etc.
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No, he is proof that I am not shoving my way down any ones throat.

Hey @ttystikk you've been a Riddler member for years have I ever tried to tell you how to grow or what lights you should use?
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Hey now. Your threads read as instructions. A guide. If I even begun to add the stuff you add and mix the medium you use as a beginner I would have been inexperienced and confused without more previous knowledge.

It is very hard to communicate well with people. Much harder when it is only in text.

To learn it is best to start with books on a subject. And not just one. Then persue your quest.
 
MichiganMedGrower

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I think Jorge Cervantes book is full of misinformation now but at least he is teaching in a personable manner and always says things like there are many nutrient ratios available and they all work.

Which is better advise if you want to learn because you will have to learn how to feed first. Which is hard to learn and I still have trouble and suspect everyone else does too. At least by week 5 on a picky plant.

I think the basic rudiments are taken for granted. He hasn't chimed in on any threads I am in yet. But the uncle Ben threads are the best clearest help I have gotten here.

And I disagree with much of his way for my indoor room now. But had to learn to grow a plant first.
 
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