chazbolin
Well-Known Member
I knew you'd wear her down. Well done! Now have her tell her friends!Originally Posted by chazbolin
Hang in there brother P. That cheese is like a finicky hot bitch you met at the bar that may need to be plied with more liquor and compliments. She better give it up this week though or it maybe she's looking over your shoulder at the dyke behind you. Nothing you can do about that one either.
That annubis main stalk looks like it's ready to handle some weight. One can only hope.
peace
I bent her down like the hoe she is.................took it well
The current phosphor blend that's been in use for going on three years now has a process that allows a 3% UVB emission. They tried for more but the borasilicate glass gobbles up any UVB that the phosphors don't nab. 3% is all you're gonna get but the plants defense mechanism to UVB is increased trichome production and from what I've seen of the trike production it's as good as I've seen even when compared to when I was using a couple of 32 watt ZooMed reptile lamps. I don't use reptile lamps anymore.Originally Posted by FranJan
Hey PSU, since I can't like you in your own thread for some reason, here's a bigfor your work so far.
Question; does that induction put out any UVB? I got 2x 48" T8s that I'm thinking of fitting with 2x 36 watt 10.0 UVA/B bulbs and 2x40 watt Vita Light Natural light and adding that to the flowering room. But if inductions do UVB, well that could change my plans drastically. Good luck with the ladies (both types)!
Originally Posted by IlovePlants
This is why someone on the led forum needs a brix tester. It allows you a rough estimate of the amount of sugar being produced if you take enough samples. It would be easy to tell whether or not certain lighting enhanced the amount of sugars saturated in the tissues. Wine makers use brix testers to test and determine a host of things. They range from $89 to around $300 for a really nice digital version.
With two identical grows; one with 660nm reds, the other without the 660s but identical wattage to the first, you would be able to make a develop a theory. Take samples 1 week apart each week of growth, boom you would get a rough estimate of sugars produced over time. Incorporate CO2 after the baselines have been established and then monitor the brix again. This would allow you to see a difference in brix for a specific amount of CO2 ppm in the air. With enough testing anyone can make standards, and as long as the instrumentation and implementation are done correct you would have viable data.
I gotta tip my hat to ILP for a thought provoking post and P you're dead on as to marching forth with a compass that shows magnetic north. Of course that compass will not show the deep valleys and high hills that must be climbed but it will set direction. That's what I used in my chat a few days ago with Darryl @ Inda-Gro when I threw some of the comments his way I was seeing on this forum and it led to this...
I firmed it up a bit more today with Darryl and for starters they already have an analog Brix Refractometer that gives readings from 0-32. They were getting setup to do a side by side for another project that involves experimenting on decreasing natural phytochrome switching by using 4 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 730nm diodes powered off of a control circuit they built into the existing 420 driver. The diodes will get their 5 minutes of power off of rechargeable lithium-ion batteries so there won't be any need for additional timers or a power source once lights are off. I don't know if anyone here has seen this tried before but when they mentioned it to me it seemed obvious. So as long as this project was about to take off they're going to add in 10 ea., LEDengin's 5 watt 660nm diodes spread equally over the length and width of the 420 housing. That's as much as they were willing to share. You can see the in house garden (tomatoes, strawberries, peppers, etc) and tests they run on @ http://www.inda-gro.com/cam.html The partition across the 3 x 6 tray would indicate the ebb and flow garden will keep everything equal between the identical plants on both sides of the partition. You can see higher res images on the photo gallery they link under the notes.
To add the 660's (remember these are phosphor guys) took a bit of persuading by me and the fact that this thread and all of those on it convinced him that while knowing the contribution that 730nm plays in reducing Pfr switching is certainly important, the bottom line as growers is that we need to look for EVERY opportunity to increase yield/quality and operating efficiencies. While the existing phosphor blend has a peak at 650nm it falls off rapidly and only, per there own admissions, manages approximately 80% of the PAR Red regions. Since there isn't anything on the horizon that would let IG modify the phosphor and achieve a Red enhancement that peaked @ 660nm while emitting a 20nm 1/2 peak I suggested this test could prove considerably beneficial to our gardens. I convinced him to try this approach so we, and I mean this forum, can get an idea what the benefits this essential spectrum will contribute to our garden with what I was told today amounts to an extra 8% in radiant flux.
These lamps already flower quite nicely, so for him to entertain this I can say is directly proportional to the technical improvements and increasing interest he has seen in LED as a viable option to HID grow lamps. Anything that were to come from this test would be used as a supplement to the existing fixture so nothing would change that design. But if the improvements bear out than the diodes would be added in some type of housing that simply draped over the existing housing. BTW he had no problem sharing this with me and actually encouraged me to share it with this thread should anyone have any suggestions they wish to chime in with. This, in my humble opinion, has some potential. We shall see.
Not sure that you read that one right bro. But if it flat out (unequivocally) states 3-3.2K kelvin as the highest amount of PAR than you pretty can be sure the source is 'misguided'. I'm not saying plants might not grow under this range but think about it this way...LED's are categorized by wavelengths in nanometers. not kelvin If a 3-3.2K kelvin lamp was the ultimate in PAR for grow lamps and you believed that than you wouldn't even be in this forum or reading an LED thread.Originally Posted by Beefbisquit
Everything I've encountered either suggests that, or flat out states that, 3000-3200k neutral light contains the highest amount of PAR.
I'm not familiar with the true definition of actinic but when referenced in kelvin for aquariums its 8000 kelvin and up. However if it's blue spectrum which you're loosely calling actinic and we're in the 420nm region that is a chlorophyll peak you would want to hit. Perhaps you can explain what I may have misinterpreted in you intial statement......we need more testing obviously....<=>...I still don't like a panel with any actinic leds in it IMO........
Hans's is way ahead ..Generally speakin' ...
As to your early endorsement; 'Hans is way ahead...generally speaking' what is that based on? Nothing about this side by side is a true comparison of plant development when little things like the plants being different between the two lights are what we're observing. Han's panel is well made and the wattage is lower but to suggest that this panel is outperforming the 'competitor' is going to take me a few more bong hits to catch your drift. What the hell I'll load up and than come back reread it and see if it makes sense.....
Nope, still don't get it Mr. Stardust. But let it not be said I didn't try.
Luv ya brother. Your posts are for the most part truly entertaining and often times well above my pay grade.
.........good call
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