Ebb and flow plant problems.

im4satori

Well-Known Member
https://foxfarmfertilizer.com/item/bush-doctor-sledgehammer.html

Helps rinse out minerals and salt build up and relieves nutrient lock ups.
Check out the link and see what u think
I took a look

its saponin which I looked up on wkipedia and yucca

its description was a little fuzzy to me... its described as glucose or sugar but derived from plants and also used for making soap... so I cant really say I understand it enough to recommend it or not

sugars are used and do help remove salts but

typical sugars are also used to increase bacteria growth which can work for you in some cases but can also work against you in a hydro set up
if your trying to feed beneficial bacteria then you add sugars but in a hydro set up it takes some work and experience that ive not had success with to use benficial (BB) in hydro

I always use sterilizers in hydro... using organic materials of any kind in the reservoir only gave me trouble of one sort or another.. I prefer to keep the organics to soil grows and or foliar feeding

but there are plenty of people out there who claim success using them in hydro

this is kinda unrelated but the floranova actually has some organic materials in it already, like fulvic acids and kelp

BB its just not something Ive had success with so I don't give my guidance on the use of BB in hydro

if you choose to go the route of using the voodoo and going the route of BB then sure use the flush if you want just don't add the Epsom or calmag with it

personally im fine with water or a weak solution and wouldn't waste my money on the flush products
 
I forgot I have this UC roots. I used it in deep water culture that my friend Gabe me but that was too hard to maintain a current culture system. This uc roots is used to keep the water sterilized. On back it says it's used for ebb and flow too. Let me know what you think of this product. It's basically hypochlorous acid.
 

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im4satori

Well-Known Member
although im not familiar with this specific product or hypo... acid specifically

it seems to fall in line with products like

dutch master zone
hydrogen peroxide
bleach
all of which can be used in the reservoir, some are safer than others!
its obviously a sterilizing agent

im not sure if it affects ph or not

im not sure id use it in combo with you enzyme hygrozime as it might nock out the enzyme

if you have hydgrozyme ...just use that for now.. its a great product its just very expensive


it just depends on what type system you want to run

a sterile reservoir or try and build BB biology

just don't use it now... lets get your plants looking good before you add anything new or unfamiliar that could have a potential for negative effect.. even if its small

how are your roots btw...? do they look healthy
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
personally

i used to run your type system but got tired of root issues and buying sterilizers or trying to run BB
i wanted a set up that would run itself
set it up and done

i converted it into a drip drain to waste system...in rockwool (coco might be better)

got me a huge reservoir (300 gallons) and learned to mix dry salt fertilizers (to keep the cost down)

fill the res
add the salts
adjust the ph 1x

all that's left to do is raise the lights

later i got some dosatron injectors and had never ending solutions

one time i left my grow and went out of town for just over 2 weeks (after stretch was done) with no one looking in on it lol
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Here's a couple pics of my DIY f&d, I get great yields when I don't screw something up

I have 3 tents (plus a starter tent), 2 currently in use now. The Hydro Halo drip ring has been replaced with a venturi . That pump is on a separated deep cycle timer o/o 4/20 (hey now) has to be on a timer otherwise the 3-4g rez gets hot
 

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im4satori

Well-Known Member
I would expect the ppm to begin dropping soon

im sure 700 is going to be low

as soon as you see the ppm starting to fall id bump it back up to 800
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
just add a little more

15 gallons at roughly 6mls per gallon add 70 to 90 mls

whats the humidity running..has it been low?
 
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just add a little more

15 gallons at roughly 6mls per gallon add 70 to 90 mls

whats the humidity running..has it been low?

Yes humidity is low. I have a 5 ton air handler inside and it keeps sucking out all the moisture from the room. I have a small humidifier inside and sometimes I wet the concrete floor with water to create moisture. It been running at 35-45%.

Not sure what else to do but getting a fogger?
My other room with coco is doing better with humidity because I have a 5 ton. Package unit on the roof and it does sucks up so much moisture from that room
 
On another note,
I could always turn my ebb and flow into a drip to waste or drip to recirculate. Would that be better than fill and dump?
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
the low humidity is good

35% to 45% is great

but when the humidity is on the low end the plants will require a lower ppm because they drink more water

so this would account for why your ppm requirement is lower than I anticipated so it all adds up the way it should... your doing good

as far as switching to drip
I wouldn't run a drip system in grow rocks... youd need to change your medium to something that holds some moisture

I used rockwool but if I went back to this type grow I might use coco instead

theres pros and cons to both

coco is partially buffering and benefical bacteria have a better chance in coco... it holds moisture so you wont need consume as much water

a drip system imo reduces the potential of root disease compared to a flood and drain because you can better control the saturation amount of the medium

drip emitters clog and drip lines should be replaced yearly but the parts are very cheap to buy and if you get the right filter you wont get clogs.... youll want to use fertilizers that don't contain organic ingredient to keep your lines free and clear... so no adding kelp or fulvic or aminos to the resevior

if you want to use those products id suggest spraying or hand watering them into the medium to keep the gunk out of your reservoir and lines

your drip emitter's are rated
I use the 1gph (that's 1 galloon per hour) emitters but the water pressure will really be the factor... but at least its some kind of guide line

so if you water 10 plants for 5 minutes 3x per day that's 15 minutes per plant at ten plants that's 150 minutes which is about 2.5 hours or 2.5 gallons solution per day

so seven days youd need roughly 20 gallons solution above the pump

I always use the $80 1/3 hp pump from lowes or homedepot... get the one with no float

running drain to waste will provide the least amount of hassle in the grow once its set up but it will require roughly 30% more water and nutrient

that should be enough inof for you to figure out what size tank youd need if its something you want ot convert to

if you've got a about $1000 to invest you could buy an injector system and mix fertilizer 1x a year lol but youd need to learn a lot about mixing raw salts before going there
 

im4satori

Well-Known Member
if you switch to drip

id change your fertilizer again

maybe do some math and see if the maxigrow and maxi bloom are more economical to purchase to offset the extra...
these fertilizers are well balanced and easy to mix for dry salts and will mix a relatively clear solution free from organic materials
there are less expensive options but this I think would be the best option for you to get started

figure out how many plants you have ... in coco and spacing them 4 plants per a 4x4 or 5x5 area id GUESS! youd water roughly 15min 3x per day or 20 min 2x per day or 35 min 1x per day either way the volume is about the same

remember ... the larger the reservoir the less often youll need to fill it...

a 300 gallon would be nice to have
in this case bigger is better
when you build your reservoir and set your ph the ph wont change.. so you could literally leave your garden un attended for as long as the resevior will last or until the light s need raised
 
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