DIY Citizen Cob LED grow

Flower room update
Moved the currant kush into the flower room about a week ago. Not really much change yet. Few more hairs sprouting, thats about it. Its hard to see in the oicture but the plants canopy is about 2 feet by 2 feet. All tops so far. Alot of underbud sites on the lower canopy but im going to start clipping most of that off before too long.

question ,, do i need 2 spectrum cobs for each stage of grow ?? vedge/flowering or just to pick 3500k or 4000k
and go ,just move light time diff from ve.. to flo.. ??
i got this question on many places and a i got is one say 80cri 3000k veg 5000k flo ..other say 80cri 3500k for all ,other say 90 cri 3500 veg
and 5000k cri80 for mother load
i just dont have cluee ,and reading here u move plants from veg to flo tents
so plz advice me ,do i need just cri 90 3500k or i need to mix them and how if yes ???
thanks

zuzuj said:

question ,, do i need 2 spectrum cobs for each stage of grow ?? vedge/flowering or just to pick 3500k or 4000k
and go ,just move light time diff from ve.. to flo.. ??
i got this question on many places and a i got is one say 80cri 3000k veg 5000k flo ..other say 80cri 3500k for all ,other say 90 cri 3500 veg
and 5000k cri80 for mother load
i just dont have cluee ,and reading here u move plants from veg to flo tents
so plz advice me ,do i need just cri 90 3500k or i need to mix them and how if yes ???
thanks

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Honestly dude i have a flower light thats all 3000k and i think i definitely need more blue. So i placed another order for a 4000k spectrum to mix in with the light. A blend of spectrum is never bad. Eith indoor lighting l, you try and mimmick the natural light source (the sun). Now from my basic understanding with spectrum cobs, they are white light, just different color temps i.e the spectrum, but they are still white light, which is a blend of all the spectrums already (they just peak at different levels hence the blueish or reddish hue). If you only wish to have a single cob, i would say 4000k. Turn the driver down for veg, and up for flower as well as dropping the lights down to 12/12. Or 10/14 if u really wanted.

Hey guys! I know it may not be the adequate place to post this question, but the "if you are new to led" thread was closed. I'm building my first cob panel and I was having a discussion with some friends on a Brazilian forum on what clu048 model I should choose.

My idea is to have one 250W panel for the complete cycle, so we were discussing about color temps and CRI. I have to choose between a 3500K CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 and a 4000K CLU048-1212C4-403M2K1. If you look at the data sheets you can see that the 4000K M2K1 model has about 152 lum/W while the 3500K H6K2 has 119 lum/W , but it was stated that this gain in efficiency is illusory, since the lumens measurement is made on a certain spectra that is dimmed due to phosphorus coating. So the question is, which one should I buy? Looking at the data sheet the color spectrum of the 4000k 80CRI seems very good, with only about 5-10% less red emission compared to the 90CRI 3500K, but with more apparent efficiency. I was planning to buy the 4000K and if needed supplement it with a 30-40W panel of 630nm leds during flowering.

Anyway, thank you guys in advance! Love the forum!

I was posting the link to the datasheets but I don't have enough privileges. They are easy to find, just ctrl+c the model on google and the citizen datasheet will be the first result.

MAJOR GANJAH said:

Hey guys! I know it may not be the adequate place to post this question, but the "if you are new to led" thread was closed. I'm building my first cob panel and I was having a discussion with some friends on a Brazilian forum on what clu048 model I should choose.

My idea is to have one 250W panel for the complete cycle, so we were discussing about color temps and CRI. I have to choose between a 3500K CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 and a 4000K CLU048-1212C4-403M2K1. If you look at the data sheets you can see that the 4000K M2K1 model has about 152 lum/W while the 3500K H6K2 has 119 lum/W , but it was stated that this gain in efficiency is illusory, since the lumens measurement is made on a certain spectra that is dimmed due to phosphorus coating. So the question is, which one should I buy? Looking at the data sheet the color spectrum of the 4000k 80CRI seems very good, with only about 5-10% less red emission compared to the 90CRI 3500K, but with more apparent efficiency. I was planning to buy the 4000K and if needed supplement it with a 30-40W panel of 630nm leds during flowering.

Anyway, thank you guys in advance! Love the forum!

I was posting the link to the datasheets but I don't have enough privileges. They are easy to find, just ctrl+c the model on google and the citizen datasheet will be the first result.

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Well i think ur right, its not the best place for your questions. You are asking about a diff model completely than what im running. I try not to get bothered by ng's hijacking my threads but come on. Theres better places to get your answers. Read more, watch growmau5's 7 part youtube vids, research research research. I personally spent a solid year n change researching before pulling the trigger. Everything you want to run is dependant on grow area, desired canopy specs, desired wattage draw, amp draw, whether your wanting active or passive cooling, theres alot to it. Do more research, and when you have a better understanding of cobs themselves, more people will be apt to guide more. But as you stated above, you need help choosing what to buy..ill tell you but i need more to go off rather than listing some numbers pulled from a site. Sorry in advance if it sounds grouchy, i havent been sleeping well as of late.

MAJOR GANJAH said:

Hey guys! I know it may not be the adequate place to post this question, but the "if you are new to led" thread was closed. I'm building my first cob panel and I was having a discussion with some friends on a Brazilian forum on what clu048 model I should choose.

My idea is to have one 250W panel for the complete cycle, so we were discussing about color temps and CRI. I have to choose between a 3500K CLU048-1212C4-353H6K2 and a 4000K CLU048-1212C4-403M2K1. If you look at the data sheets you can see that the 4000K M2K1 model has about 152 lum/W while the 3500K H6K2 has 119 lum/W , but it was stated that this gain in efficiency is illusory, since the lumens measurement is made on a certain spectra that is dimmed due to phosphorus coating. So the question is, which one should I buy? Looking at the data sheet the color spectrum of the 4000k 80CRI seems very good, with only about 5-10% less red emission compared to the 90CRI 3500K, but with more apparent efficiency. I was planning to buy the 4000K and if needed supplement it with a 30-40W panel of 630nm leds during flowering.

Anyway, thank you guys in advance! Love the forum!

I was posting the link to the datasheets but I don't have enough privileges. They are easy to find, just ctrl+c the model on google and the citizen datasheet will be the first result.

Click to expand...

I have (4) of the CLU048-1818C4-403M2K1 in veg (4000k 80cri) ran by the HLG-320H-C1400A in series. They are dimmed to about 700ma right now, only because the plants vegging are very young. (Seedlings/clones still rooting). I dont know much of the 1212's so someone else might be better to answer those questions. Give me more to go off of rather than just listing some cobs u might want. How big is the grow area? do u have a driver picked out? how hard are you wanting to drive the cobs? How much spread are you trying to achieve? Alot more than just "tell me what to buy". In flower room, i have a (4) CLU048-1818C4-30AL7K3 cobs (3000k 70cri) ran by the HVGC-320H-1400A in series turned all the way up to 1400ma. Seems to be doing just fine in my small flower area (approx 5x4) but not all of that sace is being utilized yet. Gotta wait for the vegging to really take off.

Sorry, my intention was not to HJ your thread! I know how annoying this kind of thing can be. BTW, it is a nice setup you got there!

I have a room of about 4 sqft , I was going to run 5 clu048 1212 in series using a LHG-240H-C1400 driver, which would give 245W of power. My space is not really square, it looks more like a rectangle, so I was going to do a linear bar with 5 chips covering the length of the grow area. With this current the 1212 cobs are going to be ran on about 50% of its power capacity. I know it is not the most efficient way, but it is a bit expensive to import the chips here, so I was willing to have a little bit more power output with less chips and less efficiency.

My question was not only about decision, I am actually intrigued on whether or not this difference in lum/W on this two models is significant or if it is just an artefact caused by the methodology to measure lumens.

Sorry again for the question and thank you for your answer/space!

MAJOR GANJAH said:

Sorry, my intention was not to HJ your thread! I know how annoying this kind of thing can be. BTW, it is a nice setup you got there!

I have a room of about 4 sqft , I was going to run 5 clu048 1212 in series using a LHG-240H-C1400 driver, which would give 245W of power. My space is not really square, it looks more like a rectangle, so I was going to do a linear bar with 5 chips covering the length of the grow area. With this current the 1212 cobs are going to be ran on about 50% of its power capacity. I know it is not the most efficient way, but it is a bit expensive to import the chips here, so I was willing to have a little bit more power output with less chips and less efficiency.

My question was not only about decision, I am actually intrigued on whether or not this difference in lum/W on this two models is significant or if it is just an artefact caused by the methodology to measure lumens.

Sorry again for the question and thank you for your answer/space!

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4 sq ft? Why not go up to the 1818s? You wouldnt have to use the fifth one. My veg area is the exact dimensions you describe. Its powering them absolutely fine. My veg space is 4 ft long, about 31inches wide but not all of it is utilized for grow. The light is 4 ft long itself, but the cobs are positioned in a way to keep the light more centered toward the middle not on the ends of the frame. A 4 cob 1818 setup in 4 sq ft area would be fine to run. Especially if you want to use it for both veg and flower.

I was actually just going for a 5x 1212 configuration because I found a guy that sells 5 chip bundle for a cheap price (about 50$) on ebay, with free shipping. If I chose to buy the 1818 I would have to buy them on cobkits or rapidled, which sell them for 14$ the chip + shipping (of about 30$). Also, with 4 1818 I would have to buy a HLG-320 driver, which is about 30$ more expensive + taxes, and it would make a big difference on my budget (our currency is 1/3 of a dollar, so 30$ is like 90R$), or go to the 1000mA driver, with not much of a price difference on the driver, but still with more expensive chips.

Basically what made me chose the 1212 was the 30ish dollar difference I would expend on chips.

MAJOR GANJAH said:

I was actually just going for a 5x 1212 configuration because I found a guy that sells 5 chip bundle for a cheap price (about 50$) on ebay, with free shipping. If I chose to buy the 1818 I would have to buy them on cobkits or rapidled, which sell them for 14$ the chip + shipping (of about 30$). Also, with 4 1818 I would have to buy a HLG-320 driver, which is about 30$ more expensive + taxes, and it would make a big difference on my budget (our currency is 1/3 of a dollar, so 30$ is like 90R$), or go to the 1000mA driver, with not much of a price difference on the driver, but still with more expensive chips.

Basically what made me chose the 1212 was the 30ish dollar difference I would expend on chips.

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Ahh, i see. Then yea dude if u want only one spectrum go with the 4000k, keeps em shorter and bushier. If headroom is not an issue, go with something lower k which gives more stretch. Or if the supplier you mention will do an assortment of spectrum, thats what i would do if it were me. Mixed spectrum imo can not be a bad thing. More peaks at different levels = better lighting for the plant. Are you going to use the dimmable driver "B" version or the "A" version with the built in potentiometer? Built in gives a little easier dimming function since you wont have to wire up a potentiometer, but with the b version, it gives more control over what the current actually is i.e. selectability. "A" version your kinda guessing, unless u have a killawat plug to tell u the watt draw.

I'll go with the B version! I have no trouble in wiring them up and I actually have a spare potentiometer here from some arduino projects I had.
I guess I'll go with the 4000K version then, seems to me that bushier plants will be easier to manage in my space and desired plant distribution.

Thanks a lot for your answers and for your time! I will now leave your thread be and just watch the following steps of your grow! Cheers from Brazil and may JAH bless you with large yields and dense nugs!

MAJOR GANJAH said:

I'll go with the B version! I have no trouble in wiring them up and I actually have a spare potentiometer here from some arduino projects I had.
I guess I'll go with the 4000K version then, seems to me that bushier plants will be easier to manage in my space and desired plant distribution.

Thanks a lot for your answers and for your time! I will now leave your thread be and just watch the following steps of your grow! Cheers from Brazil and may JAH bless you with large yields and dense nugs!

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No problem my friend. Sorry if i came off as a grouch. Bud love from the us! Happy growing!

Still have alot of light to use up. With another 4 cobs on the way. Those parts should be here by next month. guess nobody has any iceled ultra heatsinks in stock (predrilled and tapped). But sometime end of this month i should be able to throw another couple into flower. Worst case i have some freebie autoflower seeds i can throw into dirt just to see what they do. I ran autos before under my diy cfl build, with fairly decent results. Not worth it for yield, but suitable for my personal stash.

Quick update, went and picked up a couple 10 gal fabric pots today. Im going to finish up everything i have in my homemade ~7 gal tote pots then start running the fabric pots. I underestimated the size of them unfortunately. Ill only be able to fit 3-4 of them in my veg closet. Granted 10 gals should produce much larger plants, but fewer of them, is going to throw off my plans. Might have to work out some sort of schedule to transplant from a 5 gallon fabric pot to the 10 a week or so before putting it into flower. Anyone transplant that close to flower or should i do it earlier to let the roots grow out? Im merely spitballing here, like i said im finishing up what i have in the ~7 gals which should take me till end of june. I got 3 new clones from a good friend today, hell of a grower, but just wont give up the ol HPS. The strains i got are 9 lb hammer, sour kush, and bruce banner. Looking like a shmorgasboard of strains now.

-Currant Kush
-Tangerine Dream
-Sour OG (Headband)
-Midnight Fire OG
-9 Lb Hammer
-Sour Kush (different strain/pheno)
-Bruce Banner
-And a World Of Seeds Amnesia Autoflower in a tiny 2 gal fabric pot. Not expecting much off it but hopefully itll get me some decent smoke for personals.

berten-ernie420 said:

Flower room update
Moved the currant kush into the flower room about a week ago. Not really much change yet. Few more hairs sprouting, thats about it. Its hard to see in the oicture but the plants canopy is about 2 feet by 2 feet. All tops so far. Alot of underbud sites on the lower canopy but im going to start clipping most of that off before too long.

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is it me or are your leaves only showing 3 petals?

89ers said:

is it me or are your leaves only showing 3 petals?

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Yes, looking at the one in the back it looks like a 3 leaf plant...

They are looking good, but you're going to scrog only the back one?

10 gallon is a pretty massive pot, something like 37L... I really don't know if it will yield you more, I think you'll end up with a lot of unused space in your soil. But since you bought them, you may as well hold the veg a little more and try to fill up this huge pots. I usually like to give a least a week or two after a transplant to flip, but it is just personal taste.

89ers said:

is it me or are your leaves only showing 3 petals?

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They are, thats from light stress. I monster cropped her, veg to flower for 2 weeks back to veg for 3 weeks and then into flower till harvest. So shes still trying to adjust to the final flower cycle. As far as the scrog, no i plan to build a bigger net either today or this weekend. But the front one isnt as big as i want her to get before scrogging. So im trying to get her to stretch more before i put the net on her. The nodes are so close with these lights and the stems are like branches. I may have to pull the lights up more in veg to get the height i need, in order to get the yield im hoping for.

Wait a second, Mr. Smith might still only have 4 daughters if Mrs. Smith already had a son with someone other than Mr. Smith before or after Mr. Smith.

Raging Stalk said:

Wait a second, Mr. Smith might still only have 4 daughters if Mrs. Smith already had a son with someone other than Mr. Smith before or after Mr. Smith.

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So, she is a hooo-er? Hmmm. That changes things

visajoe1 said:

So, she is a hooo-er? Hmmm. That changes things

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Well maybe her first husband died and she is a widow. Or maybe Mr. Smith had 4 daughters before he married Mrs. Smith and they had a son. What about adoption? And then there is the transgender possibilities to take into consideration.

Simple things are not so simple these days.