CXA3590 Build Plan

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
I buy a lot from China. I bought all this lab glass for astounding prices. And it took a while. But it all got here. I use for Extraction.

I don't think $68 at Digikey is the best price or the best way to go. Kingbite, I guess is a distributor?
Yes and they also MFG reflectors and lenses for COB's check the reflector site Kingbrite.cn
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
What's all the hate you guys. RUI-itits?
It's because you're not following RIU LED scripture to the letter. Essentially, you're an infiled. :bigjoint:

I find the complaints about your design just typical... (putting it nicely). I haven't followed most of your math but I like what I see. Just a couple of days ago I pm-ed with someone about what a professional horticulture LED light looks like. And that isn't a bunch of heat sink blocks and cpu fans dangling in the air with wires everywhere... bare bulb style.

upload_2015-3-10_4-11-0.png
http://www.lighting.philips.com/pwc_li/main/shared/assets/downloads/pdf/horticulture/leaflets/cl-g-production_module-en.pdf
https://www.google.nl/search?q=philips greenpower led module kas (see images results for many different applications).

upload_2015-3-10_4-11-38.png
http://www.epapillon.com/index.php/led
 

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
It's because you're not following RIU LED scripture to the letter. Essentially, you're an infiled. :bigjoint:

I find the complaints about your design just typical... (putting it nicely). I haven't followed most of your math but I like what I see. Just a couple of days ago I pm-ed with someone about what a professional horticulture LED light looks like. And that isn't a bunch of heat sink blocks and cpu fans dangling in the air with wires everywhere... bare bulb style.

View attachment 3368506
http://www.lighting.philips.com/pwc_li/main/shared/assets/downloads/pdf/horticulture/leaflets/cl-g-production_module-en.pdf
https://www.google.nl/search?q=philips greenpower led module kas (see images results for many different applications).

View attachment 3368509
http://www.epapillon.com/index.php/led
That's cute and all but look at the size of the plants they are growing lol plus they are using them in greenhouses rlmfao
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
That's cute and all but look at the size of the plants they are growing lol plus they are using them in greenhouses rlmfao
Your argument is invalid (and silly). They are used in a wide variety of applications, not just glass greenhouses, and for many many many different crops. Height is not the determining factor most seem to think it is when you use multiple light sources. It's late here, I'm out for now, in the meantime, grab two flash lights and point them at the wall, move back and forth a little, overlap them... maybe you can figure it out.
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
Your argument is invalid (and silly). They are used in a wide variety of applications, not just glass greenhouses, and for many many many different crops. Height is not the determining factor most seem to think it is when you use multiple light sources. It's late here, I'm out for now, in the meantime, grab two flash lights and point them at the wall, move back and forth a little, overlap them... maybe you can figure it out.
Wait, I thought this was a waste of time... I've suggested this multiple times. No I'm not talking about CPU coolers. Just shorter lengths of heatsink.

Man this is a frustrating thread. :wall:
 

bicit

Well-Known Member
I've thought about Installing a 24" length of the 4.85" profile inside a 6" glass cool tube or PVC pipe. Then bolting 4-5 vero 29's driven at 1 amp. I figured it would be a good drop in 'retro fit' for someone used to using low wattage HID or CFL lamps and may already have a vortex fan in place for oder control. Since the 4.85" profile is fairly short it would be possible to mount the driver directly inside the tube to be cooled as well. I still may give it a try if I can score a 6" or 8" cool tube for a decent price.

I like the PVC pipe idea better because then there wouldn't be any light losses from the glass and assembly would be much simpler. Though not as pretty.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Wait, I thought this was a waste of time... I've suggested this multiple times. No I'm not talking about CPU coolers. Just shorter lengths of heatsink.

Man this is a frustrating thread. :wall:
Why don't you both butt out, then, you and church?
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
These troll boys don't even offer concrete alternatives. They natter some smack about, break it up and spread it out. How? And why for gwads sake?

It is a shallow view, and you may as well be out burning astronomers, or throwing wooden shoes into grears or something.

For example why shorter lengths? A long length is self support at two ends. A long length just needs 1 fan. A long length cover more SPREAD.

Short sighted, passives from last year, that are not working on 900w rigs.
 
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Doer

Well-Known Member
I've thought about Installing a 24" length of the 4.85" profile inside a 6" glass cool tube or PVC pipe. Then bolting 4-5 vero 29's driven at 1 amp. I figured it would be a good drop in 'retro fit' for someone used to using low wattage HID or CFL lamps and may already have a vortex fan in place for oder control. Since the 4.85" profile is fairly short it would be possible to mount the driver directly inside the tube to be cooled as well. I still may give it a try if I can score a 6" or 8" cool tube for a decent price.

I like the PVC pipe idea better because then there wouldn't be any light losses from the glass and assembly would be much simpler. Though not as pretty.
See, this is helping. Thanks for that. I thought about running the COBs in a glass tube. I thought about running with the tube reflector fixture, but upside down, the LEDs poke thru the top, (now the bottom) You have your flex tube connectors right there and you can put a sheet metal cap to seal the rest somehow.

In fact I was looking at cool tube grow room thinking it all needs to be turned upside down and some COBs with heat sinks substituted for the glass tubes.

But, I have a glass tube light and it is a hassle to keep clean. You really need a sealed filtered system.

And I have thought of talking a 4" PVC pipe, jig it on a table saw, and just cut a slot in the bottom wide enough to slide the heat sink up into. But, with a 3.5 inch sink you barely have enough space to put the heat sink. And if you go to 6" PVC, that is very expensive.

Although trollish criticism and assumptions can get you burned, I am seriously looking for ideas here guys. All ideas are welcome.

Debates that include no math are not.

Thanks, @bicit
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Last night I had one of these pre-dream mental clear spots. I suddenly realized a way to go with the metal shroud. When I was designed a little airplane prototype with a guy, we loved what we called "Build against parts" It was a fiberglass plane and the idea is you build a part. And then build the next part, with the first section you built, as part of the mold for the next section. Very cool, since the little matching measurements to fit 3D pieces together, are molded in. The fit perfectly.

And the same thing works for sheet metal if you stay with simple curves or straight bends.

So, what head height do I want over the fins of the heat sink. 1/4"? OK. Get a piece of 1/4" wood, size it to 3.5 inches wide for the heat sink. then use both together as a folding mandril.


 
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Doer

Well-Known Member
Your argument is invalid (and silly). They are used in a wide variety of applications, not just glass greenhouses, and for many many many different crops. Height is not the determining factor most seem to think it is when you use multiple light sources. It's late here, I'm out for now, in the meantime, grab two flash lights and point them at the wall, move back and forth a little, overlap them... maybe you can figure it out.
Dude. So true.

If I run two of these rails side by side that is 1800 w in practical the same foot print.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
It's because you're not following RIU LED scripture to the letter. Essentially, you're an infiled. :bigjoint:

I find the complaints about your design just typical... (putting it nicely). I haven't followed most of your math but I like what I see. Just a couple of days ago I pm-ed with someone about what a professional horticulture LED light looks like. And that isn't a bunch of heat sink blocks and cpu fans dangling in the air with wires everywhere... bare bulb style.

View attachment 3368506
http://www.lighting.philips.com/pwc_li/main/shared/assets/downloads/pdf/horticulture/leaflets/cl-g-production_module-en.pdf
https://www.google.nl/search?q=philips greenpower led module kas (see images results for many different applications).

View attachment 3368509
http://www.epapillon.com/index.php/led
That is very cool! Again it looks to be the right track.

Thanks! I am an In-fiddle, and proud of it. (always one hand in my pocket just to make it fair)
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
Freehand....kiss
Well, for me getting a drill press finally is like dating the Head Cheerleader, and Kissing her. :)

Sure I have hand drilled a bunch, but when I see these "tedious" comments, I know they are not really set up. And sure, if I have a 6 foot rail with even the slightest flaw in spacing orientation, line up or anything, I will mentally kick myself every time I see it.

The other stuff that makes metal work a lot less tedious is blueprint spray and a sharp awl.
I like idea of a plex template. I will probably print out a pattern and use contact cement. That is the third thing to make it easier. Attach a pattern that doesn't get taken off until the part is completely finish.
 

Doer

Well-Known Member
One troll preaches about my growing a thicker skin and the the next say I am intentional angering people, though I have a thin skin??

Stupid trolls pollute RIU.
 
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