Crumble,Budder. White,Amber,Gold :]

BCOGYODA

Well-Known Member
Hey WM when you say "I pulled the material a little before 24 hours" ; do you mean you were winterizing for 24 hrs and did the the light thing on it?

I have no experience with winterizing so I'm curious
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
Are you happy with the results?
Whyyyyy thank you for asking QW ;) overall I am. The texture is more of a shatter than a wax, I prefer shatter over wax. The color is a little lighter I think? But personally, I'm not sure if the reptile light helped more than the sun would. I've used the good ol' sun before to break down messed up oil (or to make it red) so I believe the sun (or t5 light like twitch said) would be more ideal than the reptile light I used. But maybe I'll give it another try if the sun doesn't feel like showing itself.

Hey WM when you say "I pulled the material a little before 24 hours" ; do you mean you were winterizing for 24 hrs and did the the light thing on it?

I have no experience with winterizing so I'm curious
When I said I pulled the material a little before 24 hours, they say you should keep your mix of the BHO and EC(ISO in my case) in the freezer for 24-48 then filter. I left it for ~20-22 hours. The light test was after it was fully dried and purged. I do feel like the color seems a little lighter than before (compared to the wax) but I honestly believe if I had it outside in the sun it would of worked much better (as far as breaking down the green).

I will say the dabs are a lot smoother, I can put 2x nearly 3x as much on my dabber with it compared to the wax form.
 

Sirdabsalot462

Well-Known Member
Nice work War!
:)
Way to fix a pile o poop-y looking oil....

Looks like a nice sap now, even a pull and snap, yeah?

I did some” fixins ” today also..kinda
Took some old iso shatter that is very dark and was in a ” sand” like consistency broken shards of really rock hard oil.
Put it in the chamber, melted at 125°..the oil muffined, I got it into a patty instead of little rocks.

Here is the result ..

 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
Thanks SD! Yes sir, I got that nice pull and snap going. Yours looks verrrryyyy pretty too! Gotta love being able to save messed up concentrates! I might have to start winterizing all my extracts!
 

Sirdabsalot462

Well-Known Member
Hey SD what kind of griddle are you using?
I use a very very cheap model.

Rival, deep dish griddle, Wall-Mart... 16$
Bag of All Purpose sand,50 lb is 3.50$ @Home Depot.

I suggest cleaning the sand using a giant plastic strainer.
There are lots of rocks and other shit.

But combining those two very inexpensive items...I'm able to adjust my temps in 1-2° increments.
I got my rheostat memorized..

Little turns of the knob right at the” warm setting”..exactly on warm...
The temp of the oil is 115°
I can then adjust temps accordingly, in order to get the oil molten enough for gas evacuation.
Keep in mind, different strains produce different levels of viscosity, this must be accounted for and temps should be adjusted to accommodate the viscosity of the oleoresin (or concrete).


War, I'd love to see what you could do with a vac and chamber,

Save a few bucks here and there and before you know it you've got enough to buy a vac and a chamber.
Do it bro

Lol..

Jkjk....
just a lot easier than Mityvac..

Believe me, I've done both...
 

WarMachine

Well-Known Member
Hahaha nice maybe i should get that griddle setup lol. The hand pump actually isnt that bad, i can get to 25 in less than a minute lol. The most i got the chamber to was 27hg but it would be nice to have one that kept going.
 

CalWax

Active Member
yeah I think the only time you'll have a SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCE in color, is when you run whole nugs unbroken. My "white" runs have always come from fresh tricombs of nugs that i didnt do so much as even crack the nug
 
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