**benificial bacteria tea 'V's' water chiller
- Thread starter mainliner
- Start date
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
I've been running DWC for over 10 years without any of this bullshit.
Now all of the sudden I'm retarded for avoiding these rituals. .... Nope ....
"root slime" comes from unhealthy roots. It doesn't cause unhealthy roots. Healthy roots don't get slimed.
Now all of the sudden I'm retarded for avoiding these rituals. .... Nope ....
"root slime" comes from unhealthy roots. It doesn't cause unhealthy roots. Healthy roots don't get slimed.
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Hydroburn
Well-Known Member
no, your ph/ppm advice to prevent root rot is retarded. warm water, low oxygen, and light leaks cause the most root problems in DWC, and ph/ppm won't do shit to solve that.
this whole forum is just full of bullshit, you try to give someone decent advice "run bennies" and people just come in saying retarded shit, and wanting to argue even when they actually agree with you... I really don't care what people do with their grows... I'm out.
this whole forum is just full of bullshit, you try to give someone decent advice "run bennies" and people just come in saying retarded shit, and wanting to argue even when they actually agree with you... I really don't care what people do with their grows... I'm out.
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Aeroknow
Well-Known Member
I 100% agree. The above^^^is THE perfect recipe for unhealthy roots. And is the perfect condition for root rot AND the slime
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
As usual, you are correct. Most of the funghi and shit that attack our hydro roots are secondary infections (i.e. attack unhealthy roots and young weaklings. Like unhealthy due to low DO and high ppm, and the low DO being an indirect result of high temp), and they thrive in alkaline water.
High temp, (hence) low do, high ppms or even major imbalance (not getting everything it needs), possibly caused by off ph, all factors that result in an unhealthy plant becoming subsceptible for attacks from bacteria and spores - which are everywhere....
Keeping your plants healthy is the best defense.
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Aeroknow
Well-Known Member
Ok, to sum it all up, and put it all together:iv just found out i didn't need to spend money on a waterchiller, instead i could have used benificial bacteria tea
there must be pro's and cons of these methods and what temp can i have water if i go down the bacteria road, id like to set up more bubbles and it would be easeir to not use the chiller,,thanks
I would first, and foremost, get your reservoir temp in check. If you have to use a bigger rez, do that. If you have to use a chiller, do that. Hell, if its too cold, use an aquarium heater. But get rez temp in check first, as: Poor temperature conditions leave the door open to root disease.
Then choose if you want to run a dead(sterile) rezervoir, or a living(with bennies) reservoir.
And ALSO: A nutrient strength level that is too high can be toxic to the root zone and will cause poor and stunted growth. At extreme levels, it will actually kill the root zone.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants.
****some of this post was from cut and pastes from this link,
Read it, good shit
http://www.igrowhydro.com/info2-rootzone.aspx
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
Being that the OP is THE most active troll RIU recently had that's quite an ironic post. Check mainliner's last posts/activity and compare it with churchhaze's and get a clue... former is troll, latter is one of the people here who doesn't just parrot the same old forum nonsense out of his ass which in the hydro forums is very very very rare.
SnaFuu
Well-Known Member
i was done with this thread yesterday
Okallright
Well-Known Member
!! Wow !!
how did you get from the op to here???
!!wow!!
how did you get from the op to here???
!!wow!!
Okallright
Well-Known Member
start you own thread mate , this is dead
DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
is this true? every 7 days 2/ml? I have hydroguard, just have not used it yet because 1. not sure when to use it 2. Not sure how to tell if I need it .....gonna use your advice because I feel like what it "indica"tes on the bottle i 2x what we all should be using. #Go 49ers
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DarthBlazeAnthony
Well-Known Member
Is Hydroguard good? I have this product but don't mind making tea and actually learning. Thx.
BenRipped
Well-Known Member
I'm coming from using voodoo juice at 8ml per gallon. Been using the new formula Hydroguard 6 weeks now in veg DWC buckets with average temps of 78f @ 2mls per gallon, not a single problem yet roots are pearly white. This stuff is $50 a gallon on amazon. compared to the $65 a litre of voodoo juice I was paying for I'd say its very cheap and stable results, teas can be risky.
Rahz
Well-Known Member
I use a chiller and bennies. A chiller will keep temps at 65F which supports a slightly higher oxygen content. Bennies help break down organic matter which can be useful even when the ferts are inorganic. There are reasons to use both.
I use ZHO and Plant Success for a mix of myco/bacteria. I've used worm castings but have since stopped since I brew my tea in the changeout now. A knife tip of each bennie and a big drop of honey goes in the changeout and it bubble brews for two days before going in the rez. As long as you're doing it from day one there's no need to use large amounts of carbs.
I use ZHO and Plant Success for a mix of myco/bacteria. I've used worm castings but have since stopped since I brew my tea in the changeout now. A knife tip of each bennie and a big drop of honey goes in the changeout and it bubble brews for two days before going in the rez. As long as you're doing it from day one there's no need to use large amounts of carbs.
Green Heals
New Member
I've just recently started using Hydroguard in my attempt at root rot problems and I did not see improvement until making the Heisenberg tea. Wished I would have just didn't first rather than alot of $ and wasted time. Just make the tea! First!
jijiandfarmgang
Well-Known Member
I've been researching this (not on forums lol) and pretty much this is exactly what I've come up with. Some people say that a lot of people aren't aerating their res enough, but its hard to distinguish. It seems like getting an accurate measurement of DO is hard to do (I've never tried so I don't know) but was reading about it. From the little info I did find it seems like most reservoirs don't require that much aeration, and airstones, flooming, waterfall all almost create the same DO in a reservoir.
The lower the barometric pressure, the higher ppm and the higher the temp, the less saturation of DO. I'm thinking low DO is where most go wrong, or at least when things start to get ugly.
I didn't look into alkaline solutions, will have to research that.
The lower the temp down to freezing the DO ability keeps increasing. Do you think there are any benefits to running a colder (within reason) reservoir?
Church I'm dying to know what ppm you use and if you know what your res temps are?
- Jiji
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Between 1.0 - 1.4EC throughout. I have never measured water temperature. I just assume it's okay at bubbles temperature.
jijiandfarmgang
Well-Known Member
Thanks Church.
Heath Robinson said he never followed any traditional paradigms and just used what worked for him. He said he had no secrets, never used AC or chillers, and always had phenomenal plants. He said he never had any pythium/bacteria issues. He also used about the same EC.......
- Jiji
Heath Robinson said he never followed any traditional paradigms and just used what worked for him. He said he had no secrets, never used AC or chillers, and always had phenomenal plants. He said he never had any pythium/bacteria issues. He also used about the same EC.......
- Jiji