...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?

  • Total voters
    357
taproot

taproot

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, this thread swayed me into buying some vero's. :) I like the price point for them and I'm just getting started so I did not want to spend too much on leds. Also, I think they are a good option for cabinet grows. I got 6 vero 18's for the flower side ( 2x 2.8k 2x 3.5k, 2x 5k ) & 3 vero 13 for the mother / cloning side ( 2x 5k , 1x 3.5k ). I did however want to get good quality drivers so I decided to go with meanwell HGL series, give me a little room to grow, for the dimming ability. I plan on driving the 18'2 at 700ma but the driver can go up to 1050. And, the vero 13's I was going to drive at 350ma. I need to order the heat sinks soon from hinksink usa. What do you guys think about this one? http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-600-serrated-fin/ at 12" x2. I was hoping it would accommodate 3 leds each with maybe enough room to throw 2 small infrared leds. I was going to do two strips of 12" instead of one large one down the middle as I figured it would help spread the light out more evenly. The flower area is about 1.5' in depth and width and about 4' in height. Also, I want to use the molex harness to connect the leds but I can't find any for my 13's do they make them for the 13's...I hope so? https://www.digikey.com/product-highlights/us/en/molex-pico-ezmate-harness/3596 What gauge wire would you suggest for this setup 14 or 18 gauge, and I was thinking of using wire nuts but see a lot of DIY'ers using wago connectors...what's the big advantage. I'm thankful for the help and guidance.
 
S

Scornfulheal

Active Member
Hey fellas,

I am having trouble finding switches rated for high enough DC voltage to operate each Vero 13 alone. I am running 5 total, and was planning to just have 1 on for veg, and 5 on for flower.

I may have to just disconnect the 4 manually.

Are 5 Vero 13's @ 350mA too strong for a seedling? About 24" light height from canopy.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
Scornfulheal said:
Hey fellas,

I am having trouble finding switches rated for high enough DC voltage to operate each Vero 13 alone. I am running 5 total, and was planning to just have 1 on for veg, and 5 on for flower.

I may have to just disconnect the 4 manually.

Are 5 Vero 13's @ 350mA too strong for a seedling? About 24" light height from canopy.
Click to expand...
Shouldn't be too strong; sounds perfect to me.

I did 6x Vero 18's @ both 700mA and 1050 for tomato and pepper seedlings at ~24inch. I personally don't think the tomatoes enjoyed it but the peppers (hot) are loving the light (foliage is 10/10).

What do you mean by switches? Drivers? Are you looking for one mega driver with 350mA current or?

taproot said:
Hey guys, this thread swayed me into buying some vero's. :) I like the price point for them and I'm just getting started so I did not want to spend too much on leds. Also, I think they are a good option for cabinet grows. I got 6 vero 18's for the flower side ( 2x 2.8k 2x 3.5k, 2x 5k ) & 3 vero 13 for the mother / cloning side ( 2x 5k , 1x 3.5k ). I did however want to get good quality drivers so I decided to go with meanwell HGL series, give me a little room to grow, for the dimming ability. I plan on driving the 18'2 at 700ma but the driver can go up to 1050. And, the vero 13's I was going to drive at 350ma. I need to order the heat sinks soon from hinksink usa. What do you guys think about this one? http://www.heatsinkusa.com/4-600-serrated-fin/ at 12" x2. I was hoping it would accommodate 3 leds each with maybe enough room to throw 2 small infrared leds. I was going to do two strips of 12" instead of one large one down the middle as I figured it would help spread the light out more evenly. The flower area is about 1.5' in depth and width and about 4' in height. Also, I want to use the molex harness to connect the leds but I can't find any for my 13's do they make them for the 13's...I hope so? https://www.digikey.com/product-highlights/us/en/molex-pico-ezmate-harness/3596 What gauge wire would you suggest for this setup 14 or 18 gauge, and I was thinking of using wire nuts but see a lot of DIY'ers using wago connectors...what's the big advantage. I'm thankful for the help and guidance.
Click to expand...
Something like this will be good for your setup. All molex Pico EZ-Mates will fit the Vero lineup, so you can order a bundle of the one I prescribed or preferred, and save money. 18" is super long, so 12" or 6" is advised. If you check the individual data sheets of the different makes of the EZ-Mates, you'll notice that they come in 28AWG, 20AWG, and 18AWG. Unless one is going over 2A, 20AWG will suffice for our purposes (2A and below).

Here is a list of the various EZ-Mate adapters for Vero-related products.

As far as your heat sink question, you will have to bring it up in @SupraSPL 's heat sink thread, as I haven't ordered from heatsinkusa.com before.
 
nvhak49

nvhak49

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
Shouldn't be too strong; sounds perfect to me.

I did 6x Vero 18's @ both 700mA and 1050 for tomato and pepper seedlings at ~24inch. I personally don't think the tomatoes enjoyed it but the peppers (hot) are loving the light (foliage is 10/10).

What do you mean by switches? Drivers? Are you looking for one mega driver with 350mA current or?



Something like this will be good for your setup. All molex Pico EZ-Mates will fit the Vero lineup, so you can order a bundle of the one I prescribed or preferred, and save money. 18" is super long, so 12" or 6" is advised. If you check the individual data sheets of the different makes of the EZ-Mates, you'll notice that they come in 28AWG, 20AWG, and 18AWG. Unless one is going over 2A, 20AWG will suffice for our purposes (2A and below).

Here is a list of the various EZ-Mate adapters for Vero-related products.

As far as your heat sink question, you will have to bring it up in @SupraSPL 's heat sink thread, as I haven't ordered from heatsinkusa.com before.
Click to expand...
Oh damn so those just plug right into the Vero 18? If so that's sweet and I'll order some now can you wires those plug ins in a series too?, I just got done threading my heat sinks I'm just waiting on my driver which should be here today and the pk3 which will be here tomorrow.
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
Oh damn so those just plug right into the Vero 18? If so that's sweet and I'll order some now can you wires those plug ins in a series too?, I just got done threading my heat sinks I'm just waiting on my driver which should be here today and the pk3 which will be here tomorrow.
Click to expand...
You could wire them in series, yes.
 
S

Scornfulheal

Active Member
Hey AP,

I have arctic 11 plus heatsink/fans for each of my 5 Vero 13's which are being driven by a single meanwell HLG dimable driver (350mA-700mA).

I have 4 3500k and 1 4000k.

I also already have the pico ezmate connectors. My cobs are mounted on the heatsinks with pk-3 and kapton tape, with the pico ezmates wired in series and soldered together. The circuit isnt closed yet, because I'm waiting on some Wago 222 connectors to switch from powering the single 4000k, versus the entire panel.

Thoughts?

I'm running 2 autoflowers in 2 gal smartpots. They are probably set for 7-8 weeks timetable. They are in Fox Farm Happy Frog soil, stuffed with extra perlite, and I have the GO Box (General Organics) for organic nutes. I will be inoculating with Mykos as well. The reason I ask is because I've heard autos are sensitive to light and nutes, so I didn't want to expose them to all 5 lights if they needed a week to grow.
 
S

Scornfulheal

Active Member
Also I was able to create a PWM fan controller on a breadboard that can control all of my Arctic 11 plus fans simultaneously, providing them with a clean PWM signal to their 4th wires. This allows me to control the speed with a 2-98% duty cycle, which gives me better control over sound in my small space.

If anyone is interested, I got the idea and design from Bing and a few others at Overlockers. Mine worked like a charm the first time I powered it up. Runs off a 556 IC timer.
 
A

avnewb

Well-Known Member
I just hooked mine up at 5v and they are silent. Run a lil hotter but not too hot to touch so they are fine.

But that is cool.


So I've got ten V10s left and ten 2.08x10in heatsinks so figure I will make this lil fixture welded together so it will be easy to raise and lower:

C__Users_270368_Documents_Drawing1 Model (1).jpg

My only issue is I am running out of space as I also have seven V29s and 2 CXA3070s left.
 
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AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
avnewb said:
I just hooked mine up at 5v and they are silent. Run a lil hotter but not too hot to touch so they are fine.

But that is cool.


So I've got ten V10s left and ten 2.08x10in heatsinks so figure I will make this lil fixture welded together so it will be easy to raise and lower:

View attachment 3364636

My only issue is I am running out of space as I also have seven V29s and 2 CXA3070s left.
Click to expand...
Is that an AutoCAD drawing I see? :eyesmoke:

I enjoy SolidWorks too.
 
A

avnewb

Well-Known Member
AquariusPanta said:
Is that an AutoCAD drawing I see? :eyesmoke:

I enjoy SolidWorks too.
Click to expand...
Ya, I was bored and figured I would make sure I like the design before welding. Plus I couldn't visualize what to do with what I had left so made it easy. I know the basics but it is so easy to use these days. Wish I had used it for my huge light. But this should be a cute little light.

Still havent received driver from fastech thou so only have 1 driver to power 5 of them.

Thinking I will add the V29s and cxa3070s to my fixture that has the thirty V10s and when things get bigger can turn them on to make things go faster. IDK. Wish I had more room.
 
taproot

taproot

Well-Known Member
AP, wasn't you the one who decided to throw a pinch of IR in your rig with some little led emitters? I was wanting to do the same and was wondering which ones you used or recommend?
 
A

avnewb

Well-Known Member
ReeferDance said:
Fasttech is killing me right now haha. tracking hasn't been updated in over 2 weeks. Thought I had timed it before Chinese New Year......BUT NOPE.
Click to expand...
Any luck? Ive been waiting over a month.

Got it welded and will attach V10s and just power 5 for now as only have one driver.
 

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V

voon

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone,
Is there anyone who has a value of 400-780nm spectrum for VERO 80CRi 2700K and 5000K VERO 70CRi. For VERO 29 3000K spectrum 80CRi I have already found it, I need to create a custom mix the entire spectrum of project VERO 2x5000k, 2x3000k, 5x2700k. Very thanks;-)
 
alesh

alesh

Well-Known Member
voon said:
Hi everyone,
Is there anyone who has a value of 400-780nm spectrum for VERO 80CRi 2700K and 5000K VERO 70CRi. For VERO 29 3000K spectrum 80CRi I have already found it, I need to create a custom mix the entire spectrum of project VERO 2x5000k, 2x3000k, 5x2700k. Very thanks;-)
Click to expand...
SPD for 2700K 80CRI is not in the data sheet. But basically it's the same SPD as 3000K 80CRI with lesser blue peak. Output in red region is the same so I advise against using 2700K 80CRI.
Digitezed SPD's for 5000K 70CRI v1 & v2 are attached as *.csv.txt .
 

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voon

Well-Known Member
thx alesh,
look at the attached file, I do not know if this is correct, it seems a mistake that would have a higher relative intensity for 2700K than 3000K, but the original graph, not digitized, is reportedly came from the official sides's BRIDGELUX. Regarding the SPD values 5000k something looks wrong in them? when inserted into the color calculator are different values than it should be for 5000k, see attached file.thx
 

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guod

guod

Well-Known Member
1.2e-23 lumen?. Thats damn low,
Try lumen here for white leds, red green and blue
for deep red and royal blue use given output in milliWatt

Btw. Diagramms in datasheets are always exampels.
Correct data can be fuond on the osram site or at 1023
 
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