...All Things Vero...

Would you consider buying a VERO after reading through some of the posts?


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I stumbled across this forum and I would like to share a design concept with you guys that integrates a vero13 (or 18..) into a complete package. This is meant to be modular and expandable, so you could add as many modules as you like - varying the color temperature as required.

The module consists of a heatsink, vero COB, cast acrylic cover, reflector & a din-rail mounting clip.

I plan to cast a clear acrylic cover over the chip, that way the Vero and internals can be protected. I am still working on choosing a proper reflector which offers the best beam pattern and fits well.

The din-rail clip should offer a really easy-to-use rail system to mount modules to. There are also a few points on the heatsink fins that could be used with eyelets or similar for chain hanging.

I'm still working on daisy-chaining units, but I do plan on using a current regulator built inside the individual modules. This is so a constant-voltage supply can be used, allowing short cable links (connectors TBD) to connect modules in parallel. This allows them to be operated in parallel even with varying forward voltages (different color temperatures, etc..). Depending on how much this costs, I may also consider individual current supplies for each.


This is still a work-in-progress. I would love any suggestions or comments.

Grow_Main.png 4-up-array.png 4-up-array_2.png 4-up-array_3.png Grow_Main.png
 
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DonPetro

Well-Known Member
I stumbled across this forum and I would like to share a design concept with you guys that integrates a vero13 (or 18..) into a complete package. This is meant to be modular and expandable, so you could add as many modules as you like - varying the color temperature as required.

The module consists of a heatsink, vero COB, cast acrylic cover, reflector & a din-rail mounting clip.

I plan to cast a clear acrylic cover over the chip, that way the Vero and internals can be protected. I am still working on choosing a proper reflector which offers the best beam pattern and fits well.

The din-rail clip should offer a really easy-to-use rail system to mount modules to. There are also a few points on the heatsink fins that could be used with eyelets or similar for chain hanging.

I'm still working on daisy-chaining units, but I do plan on using a current regulator built inside the individual modules. This is so a constant-voltage supply can be used, allowing short cable links (connectors TBD) to connect modules in parallel. This allows them to be operated in parallel even with varying forward voltages (different color temperatures, etc..). Depending on how much this costs, I may also consider individual current supplies for each.


This is still a work-in-progress. I would love any suggestions or comments.

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How does the cover affect light output and what are the rods sticking out for? I like the rail idea.
 
How does the cover affect light output and what are the rods sticking out for? I like the rail idea.
The rods are actually just the cables that feed into the light - I'll update that to look more like a power cable instead. One feed in, and a daisy chain.

The cover will add some loss to the system, any time you pass light through a material regardless of what it is you lose some percentage. I think this cover is necessary for general use, but maybe not needed for the DIYers out there

I've also thought about casting a fresnel pattern into the cover, instead of using a reflector - but I dont know yet if I'll get a wide enough pattern
 
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voon

Well-Known Member
So it seems that the error in the data entry for the 5000k I incorrectly entered in units of photons / s as soon as I entered the data w / nm seems to be fine, thx alesh and Guoda. I came to a similar problem with 'Vero 3000K, digitized data I found in post 44. SDS from LER (file vero 3000_80) thx SDS.
But what values are correct after conversion LER? In the case of W / S based 2700K in the case of photons / sec 3000K CRi30 ??? See attached files
 

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tightpockt

Well-Known Member
So a little while ago I was building a veg light and ordered 4 vero 10's 5000k, heatsinks and drivers but then I thought I'll probably want to build another one so I bought all of the parts x2 except for the COBS thinking the price might come down later or something better might come out. Today I tried to order 4 more vero10's 5000k and newark and digikey don't have them. They just say discontinued.
So now I'm stuck with this extra driver https://www.fasttech.com/products/1714900 and don't know what to do with it. Should I just order the vero10 4000k? How much worse could it be at vegging? Or should I order the vero13 5000k and just run 3 of them with that driver? Or better yet if anyone knows where I can just get some vero10 5000k that would be awesome.
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
So a little while ago I was building a veg light and ordered 4 vero 10's 5000k, heatsinks and drivers but then I thought I'll probably want to build another one so I bought all of the parts x2 except for the COBS thinking the price might come down later or something better might come out. Today I tried to order 4 more vero10's 5000k and newark and digikey don't have them. They just say discontinued.
So now I'm stuck with this extra driver https://www.fasttech.com/products/1714900 and don't know what to do with it. Should I just order the vero10 4000k? How much worse could it be at vegging? Or should I order the vero13 5000k and just run 3 of them with that driver? Or better yet if anyone knows where I can just get some vero10 5000k that would be awesome.
The 2nd version of Vero's are coming out and they probably have started to discontinue some of the NOS.......The Vero 13's are fine, they run a little higher voltage for the same current as the 10's.....:peace:
Here yah go....octopart to the rescue

https://octopart.com/search?q=bridgelux vero 10 5000k&start=0

octo.jpg
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
Thanks for the links abiqua and mechmike, I don't know how I missed it...
because i got high, because I got high, Because I got highhhh
Ordered 4 more vero10's, Almost done building the first light...just need to run out and get some thermal paste...I'll post pics when I'm done.
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
WTf...I'm looking at that picture after I uploaded it and it looks like the white plastic casing part is cracked...I dont have that on any of the other COBs...I'll fire it up and see if it works tomorrow...ugh.
Ok, done hijacking this thread
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
WTf...I'm looking at that picture after I uploaded it and it looks like the white plastic casing part is cracked...I dont have that on any of the other COBs...I'll fire it up and see if it works tomorrow...ugh.
Ok, done hijacking this thread
Whoever you bought it from should replace it.....foc.....just a broken holder it seems, not the LED, which is good....

fyi, I use the a Molex connector on a Vero 29 connected in series with about 110v's and 1 amp...you should have no problems with them, I believe they are rated around 300 or 400 volts...:peace:
 

avnewb

Well-Known Member
There is no holder. That is the cob. Im sure its fine. Just dont submerge it in water.
Fyi u can run 5 V10s off that driver.
 

nvhak49

Well-Known Member
Thought id share my first DIY Cob veg light. Just finished the light yesterday. 4 vero 18s,HLG-80h-700C driver, the heat sink is super cool to the touch I could almost get a smaller phone charger for the fans to be even more efficient running them at 12v from one charger, I wanna get one so I can change the mA to them. It's crazy how much better the coverage is compared to my t5 2ft by 4 bulb. It's drawing 96w from the wall. Waiting for the dimmer to come in the mail and I'll dim them down to 500mA. I'm loving it so far can't wait to make my flower light next. Forgot to give a shout out to all the guys on this thread that helped me on my many questions! Thanks!!!
 

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