Why do you need heat when vacuum purging?
- Thread starter Kanivers
- Start date
mtgeezer
Well-Known Member
To get as much of the chemicals out as possible. PURE butane or PURE alcohol evaporate at these temps but by mixing things up the temps vary and believe me you want to make sure ALL the butane and alcohol are removed.
Dry ice hash for me, none of this BHO stuff. You don't know what may be left in it unless you did it yourself and had the product analyzed. It may be just the minutest traces left it can accumulate.
Dry ice hash for me, none of this BHO stuff. You don't know what may be left in it unless you did it yourself and had the product analyzed. It may be just the minutest traces left it can accumulate.
Jozikins
Well-Known Member
Because otherwise it doesn't come out right. In my method, I use a hair dryer (not as dangerous as it sounds) and if I think I have a pure white product that evaporated right away, and go easy on the hair dryer, it turns to goo. Maybe it's what mtgeezer said, I'm sure it is. But I know that the heat definitely assists in the purging process, and it seems really important in first initial heating.
Basically, I just blast butane through my rig like you would normally into a frozen pyrex dish, then once it evaporates into thick goo I hit it with a hair dryer, it's not going to spark fire at that this point. I've always used the hair dryer on deionize because thats what I started with and don't want to find out if it's what is making the difference and get a batch of goop. I make sure I don't get the hash too hot and I keep the hair dryer moving back and forth. The frozen dish will help regulate temp, so you don't have to worry so much. I feel the bottom of the pan for progress, and once it feels hot as shit, and it's hard to keep my hand on it, I pull it off. I figure that's roughly enough 130-140 because that is as hot as it's recommended. My tap water comes out at 140 on hot, so I've been burned enough to know what it feels like by now, I'm getting thicker skin too, lol. I think using heat just speeds it up and makes sure it was done completely. Because when I go easy on the hair dryer, I get oil, when I go heavy on it, I get honeycomb. I use the hairdryer until their are no more bubbles popping, and I'm having trouble finding any bubbles left.
Then I let the pan cool back down to room temp, and I pop it in the freezer for a little bit until it frosts over really good, 15-30 minutes, pull it out, scrape it up, and then just put it on a piece of parchment paper, leave it out uncovered for 2 days and you get something like this.
View attachment 2607513View attachment 2607514View attachment 2607515
I don't vacuum purge because I haven't needed too. I've made some damn fine products, and it's definitely a lot stronger than the dabs I was getting at the Cannabis Cup in LA. I think the fact that I'm at 5200 feet has a lot to do with it. My buddy does the same technique in the desert, and uses a vacuum purge, and still can't get it to look like mine.
Basically, I just blast butane through my rig like you would normally into a frozen pyrex dish, then once it evaporates into thick goo I hit it with a hair dryer, it's not going to spark fire at that this point. I've always used the hair dryer on deionize because thats what I started with and don't want to find out if it's what is making the difference and get a batch of goop. I make sure I don't get the hash too hot and I keep the hair dryer moving back and forth. The frozen dish will help regulate temp, so you don't have to worry so much. I feel the bottom of the pan for progress, and once it feels hot as shit, and it's hard to keep my hand on it, I pull it off. I figure that's roughly enough 130-140 because that is as hot as it's recommended. My tap water comes out at 140 on hot, so I've been burned enough to know what it feels like by now, I'm getting thicker skin too, lol. I think using heat just speeds it up and makes sure it was done completely. Because when I go easy on the hair dryer, I get oil, when I go heavy on it, I get honeycomb. I use the hairdryer until their are no more bubbles popping, and I'm having trouble finding any bubbles left.
Then I let the pan cool back down to room temp, and I pop it in the freezer for a little bit until it frosts over really good, 15-30 minutes, pull it out, scrape it up, and then just put it on a piece of parchment paper, leave it out uncovered for 2 days and you get something like this.
View attachment 2607513View attachment 2607514View attachment 2607515
I don't vacuum purge because I haven't needed too. I've made some damn fine products, and it's definitely a lot stronger than the dabs I was getting at the Cannabis Cup in LA. I think the fact that I'm at 5200 feet has a lot to do with it. My buddy does the same technique in the desert, and uses a vacuum purge, and still can't get it to look like mine.
CannabisCorps
Active Member
the vac lowers the boiling points of the liquids but does not affect the viscosity so heat is needed.
Kanivers
Active Member
What if you're using an absolute filtered from a winterized oleoresin?
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
It doesn't matter, it still needs enough heat for the oil to be liquid.
Kanivers
Active Member
But...there would be no butane trapped, only ethanol: correct?
Kanivers
Active Member
I thought when winterizing with ethanol the cooking process removes the butane because of the lower boiling point?
rastakolnikov
Well-Known Member
Everclear/Ethanol
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
The cooking process does remove the butane. I was refering to the point at which the ethanol is added and it has not yet been cooked off.
The key point is that it doesn't make any difference what the solvent is, once the oil forms a skin, nothing leaves it very fast,
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
What Rasta said. 190 proof Everclear.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
See:
http://www.rafoeg.de/20,Dokumentenarchiv/20,Daten/dielectric_chart.pdf
The dielectric constants are different. Anything less than about 15 is considered non polar and we are dealing with non polar waxes.
The dielectric constant for Isopropyl is 18.3, for Ethanol 24.3, and Methanol 33.1. The greater the polarity, the less it will like non polar waxes.
Methanol would do an even better job of rejecting non polar waxes.
http://www.rafoeg.de/20,Dokumentenarchiv/20,Daten/dielectric_chart.pdf
The dielectric constants are different. Anything less than about 15 is considered non polar and we are dealing with non polar waxes.
The dielectric constant for Isopropyl is 18.3, for Ethanol 24.3, and Methanol 33.1. The greater the polarity, the less it will like non polar waxes.
Methanol would do an even better job of rejecting non polar waxes.
Vacuum is used to lower the vapor point temperature, which is desired. Heat is still required to evaporate a liquid.
Fadedawg
Well-Known Member
American Scientific can supply it.
As VP notes, it is a common simple alkane alcohol, used by painters and for cleaning.
It's based on Methane, plus one oxygen atom. It is fermented from fruit pectin, and is present in small amounts in orange juice, though in large amounts it attacks the optic nerves and liver.