Why do some guys wats to still use mono led with cobs?

Add mono's to cobs?

  • Total voters
    116
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
ttystikk said:
Who says? If we can have our ultra high efficiency cake and eat a nice broad spectrum too, then why not?

I mean, it's a worthy goal, right?
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Absolutely, it's just not -everything-. Whether a solar-like spectrum is important to any individual or not, no single light source nails that goal, and I don't think we need to begrudge somebody trying to provide a whatever spectrum they want if they can't get from a cob alone.

I tend to sneak veggies under my lights, and I see how weird things can get when they aren't in sunlight. Weird growths, funky colors. Kind of the final push away from my trusty Hortilux.

Researching alternate cobs forced me to do the math for myself, figure out LER and efficiency using the math alesh, mrflux et al made so accessible, digitize spectrums, break out Excel, and really look at spectrums instead of eyeballing charts or going by CCT.

And every light source needs a goosing of red or blue to really nail sunlight-like ratios. Do I necessarily care? Undecided. But I won't mock somebody trying to do better.

None of this touches on maximizing potential by changing spectrum throughout a grow, which is an entirely different argument, and not one I am necessarily interested in making. If I was solving world hunger it might be worth persuing.

Anyway, hating on somebody trying to do something different because what you know works is a great way to stifle learning anything new.
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
JorgeGonzales said:
Absolutely, it's just not -everything-. Whether a solar-like spectrum is important to any individual or not, no single light source nails that goal, and I don't think we need to begrudge somebody trying to provide a whatever spectrum they want if they can't get from a cob alone.

I tend to sneak veggies under my lights, and I see how weird things can get when they aren't in sunlight. Weird growths, funky colors. Kind of the final push away from my trusty Hortilux.

Researching alternate cobs forced me to do the math for myself, figure out LER and efficiency using the math alesh, mrflux et al made so accessible, digitize spectrums, break out Excel, and really look at spectrums instead of eyeballing charts or going by CCT.

And every light source needs a goosing of red or blue to really nail sunlight-like ratios. Do I necessarily care? Undecided. But I won't mock somebody trying to do better.

None of this touches on maximizing potential by changing spectrum throughout a grow, which is an entirely different argument, and not one I am necessarily interested in making. If I was solving world hunger it might be worth persuing.

Anyway, hating on somebody trying to do something different because what you know works is a great way to stifle learning anything new.
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I am an indoor veggie weirdo too @JorgeGonzales
I know what you mean about weird growth and odd shaped leaves etc.
I too am interested in a "efficient" light source that will truly grow plants comparable to sun grown.
What do you think of the Hortilux Blue Metal Halide spectrum? Anything in led come close?
 
BOBBY_G

BOBBY_G

Well-Known Member
what jorge said but i dont think sun is end-all-be-all. if we can juice a plant with 660s we should

its the same with CO2. would you limit it to 400 because its whats nature does?
 
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
OneHitDone said:
I am an indoor veggie weirdo too @JorgeGonzales
I know what you mean about weird growth and odd shaped leaves etc.
I too am interested in a "efficient" light source that will truly grow plants comparable to sun grown.
What do you think of the Hortilux Blue Metal Halide spectrum? Anything in led come close?
Click to expand...
The Hortilux Blue has always looked great, but I have no idea what in led would come close. It's a great question. If I can find a decent resolution chart it'd be fun to see how the spectrum breaks down vs cobs, assuming we can trust the HID spectrum charts, I vaguely recall some debate there, back in the day.

BOBBY_G said:
what jorge said but i dont think sun is end-all-be-all. if we can juice a plant with 660s we should

its the same with CO2. would you limit it to 400 because its whats nature does?
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Agreed, but it's probably a safe place to start tweaking from.
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
BOBBY_G said:
what jorge said but i dont think sun is end-all-be-all. if we can juice a plant with 660s we should

its the same with CO2. would you limit it to 400 because its whats nature does?
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We were talking "veggies" not herb chief
For some reason it seams when you get too far from a "natural" spectrum on something such as lettuce you get twisted results
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
JorgeGonzales said:
The Hortilux Blue has always looked great, but I have no idea what in led would come close. It's a great question. If I can find a decent resolution chart it'd be fun to see how the spectrum breaks down vs cobs, assuming we can trust the HID spectrum charts, I vaguely recall some debate there, back in the day.



Agreed, but it's probably a safe place to start tweaking from.
Click to expand...
Have you guys seen the Amare spectrum. Sounds like that's exactly what you're talking about. They try to Mimic the sun at the equator.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
I flowered a few times with the Hortrilux Blue. Fantastic results. I also put them in where i can around the last 2 weeks of flower. I do this because they still have plenty of red & IR but tons of blue & UV. They turn anything being hit by them purple w/ many other colors. It looks wild in the bag. My patients call it a bag-o-candy.
Some of my latgest harvests were done this way.
I found its easier to get color from the Daylight Blue then it is cold air. But I try to do both if I can. Crazy trich formation too. I didn't quite get those colors with the Amare I think because it doesn't have as much full blue spec as the Daylight Blue
Under 450. That 380-420 is important for that. I'd like to see Amare step up their UV game. Aside from that their as close to perfect as I can find at the moment. Them & Fluence.
 
OneHitDone

OneHitDone

Well-Known Member
Hybridway said:
I flowered a few times with the Hortrilux Blue. Fantastic results. I also put them in where i can around the last 2 weeks of flower. I do this because they still have plenty of red & IR but tons of blue & UV. They turn anything being hit by them purple w/ many other colors. It looks wild in the bag. My patients call it a bag-o-candy.
Some of my latgest harvests were done this way.
I found its easier to get color from the Daylight Blue then it is cold air. But I try to do both if I can. Crazy trich formation too. I didn't quite get those colors with the Amare I think because it doesn't have as much full blue spec as the Daylight Blue
Under 450. That 380-420 is important for that. I'd like to see Amare step up their UV game. Aside from that their as close to perfect as I can find at the moment. Them & Fluence.
Click to expand...
Maybe a Hortilux Blue LED panel will be seen in the future :P
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
I see ECOSUNLITE now has a BIG banner advertising in RIU forums. I told you this was a legit light.
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I think their probobly better then what Advanced led is stiiiiiillllll offering. And we all know how expensive they are.
I'm getting a few light bars & was thinking about customizing a few of those 100w little ones for modular flowering & veg.
XPE whites in the middle with colors around them in the clusters. Could be fun.
Your using one of their lights right?
 
JorgeGonzales

JorgeGonzales

Well-Known Member
Hybridway said:
I think their probobly better then what Advanced led is stiiiiiillllll offering. And we all know how expensive they are.
I'm getting a few light bars & was thinking about customizing a few of those 100w little ones for modular flowering & veg.
XPE whites in the middle with colors around them in the clusters. Could be fun.
Your using one of their lights right?
Click to expand...
I was thinking of ordering a 660nm Cree bar, but I want to know which bins and driver specs they are building with.

This is a pretty savvy bunch, and those would be helpful. Actually, bins, drivers and watts at the wall is enough to figure out the important stuff.
 
Hybridway

Hybridway

Well-Known Member
JorgeGonzales said:
I was thinking of ordering a 660nm Cree bar, but I want to know which bins and driver specs they are building with.

This is a pretty savvy bunch, and those would be helpful. Actually, bins, drivers and watts at the wall is enough to figure out the important stuff.
Click to expand...
I think the point there trying to accomplish is "who should care at this price". If their par #'s are legit then their probobly mid-line bin. Lowest binning will not help them accomplish those #'s.
They haven't told me what drivers they use but did say they were 98%.
There's a language barrier & the sales team doesn't understand what a bin is. They think it's the K-Temp or color nm.
So it's been tough to communicate. They're sales guys not light makers. We know way more about lights in every aspect.
But at these prices & using xpe's with the desired mono & cob combo. , their bound to sell.
I'm trying a few light bars.
I can't justify buying the actual lights though. I have to much riding on max Yeild & longevity to mess around anymore then the led comparison test I did. Back to max Yeild. HPS & Amare for me.
 
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