What the hello, why not...

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
The og chem male cuts rooted today, so the dude will be making his magic for testing post haste. I’m cautiously optimistic. Chem d is already turning around, she smells so good the thought of not getting some harvest makes me sad but not as sad as loosing her. Those terps are making me drool. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again if I had to pick just one it would be her!
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Check out the growth on the dude since his haircut. He’s going to flower now, I’ll be isolating him once his flowers get close to dropping spluff.
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I think I’m going to rearrange my setup. This thing with the magnesium deficiency is a problem, I’m struggling to figure out the needs of the strains under led. It occurred to me that some of these clones have known a particular light source for as much as decade or more, I’m not used to it and I feel like I’m not getting what I would expect. I mean, I miss my hps. Maybe I should swap out 600 watts of led for cms or hps. Suck it up and get a mini split or heat pump.
Here we have some outdoor ECSD then 79 xmas bud. Xmas will probably finish by October. I can let ecsd go as long as I want, I’m going to stretch it a bit. I’ll watch the trichs but I think she wants to go deep.

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Mohican

Well-Known Member
Looks like yours did the reveg thing that most of mine did. Only my pure sativa strains were unphased by being put out so early.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
I think it’s the heat, I waited till June 3-4 ish. I usually only get that when I put them out in May. Xmas actually looks normal, it’s a squat little Pakistani ibl.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
it was in the 90s here yesterday and we went out to the beach after work for a picnic and the sunset. It felt like 60 at the beach with 30 mph winds. It was almost to cold to be out there, and we weren’t even getting wet.
I can almost smell the air man! A New Mexico sunset is one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen but the sunset from devils peak is really close!
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Mo, I’ve been playing with dimming the lights. I can’t help thinking of what you said about the intensity. Now the gg and cluster funk look like I have never given them a shred of cal-mag rusting up and stuff. My first couple runs With leds in my 4x3 were a little mag def no biggie but Jesus de Cristo, my shit looks like some newbie buster room. I haven’t had this much trouble since I was 16!!!
If anyone can help me out I would be much obliged. My finger is on the trigger for a couple cmh 315s, I’m thinking those with just my logic pucks to pump photons around the perimeter, so like 945watts’ish. Total 38.6 watts per square foot. Or am I just freaking out and need to settle down?
 

Mohican

Well-Known Member
The trick with LEDs is getting the moisture content of your soil/plant right. The heat is so much less, and the light is so much more, that you are learning a whole new way. A better way!

You will get it dialed in. Instead of using Cal-Mag, you might consider using Epsom for just Mag and Sulfur.

Are you growing in soil? If so I would recommend worm compost and teas.

I have pulled plants out of bad soil and started over with fresh Pro-Mix. They bounced right back.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
I usually go all organic, one of the issues is nutrient intake. I’m blaming an obvious difference in the happy frog top dress amendment that I used to get, that I noticed before I switched to LED. So I tried switching to a more supersoil style using DTE, but the last run using that ss that I made ran out of juice like 3-4 weeks in and it was a hot mix. So I bought fox farm to finish up. Like I said at this point I feel like a noob like I can’t even figure out the nutes let alone the stupid ass LEDs. I have been growing for about 30 years and I have never felt defeated like this. Ultimately I have messed with nutes plenty of times but the LED is adding a layer of complexity Like trying to hit a curveball having never seen one before.
Now some show mag def alone, but the gg and cf have full blown calcium def look. I don’t give cal mag unless I see calcium def. I always amend my base with oyster shell flour and crab meal so there really shouldn’t be a need for more calcium.
One issue is that I cannot raise humidity past 20-30%. It’s physically not possible without setting up interval misters, I’m not introducing that much moisture it begs for other issues. surface temps don’t get lower than 80 right now, limits of the passive cooling. Honestly this is one of the reasons I use a passive evaporation cooling system, so I can get moisture in. Which is about the vpd offset of 1 degree per percent saturation. So I get about 15 to 20° Cooling and about 15 to 20% humidity. Net of 20-30%humidity in flower room.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
When I think about how I designed my shed, it was predicated on everything I know about growing with high pressure sodium lights. When I think about it the entire set up is probably wrong for what I’m trying to do. Really the shed is set up to run hps for all months except for June July August. My day dream was to be able to run in the summer, so I switched to the LEDs in hope. But really I shouldn’t of assumed that I could plug LEDs into that set up and just keep going. I think the biggest issue I’m seeing here from what I’m reading is that I should really be at around 50% humidity to make this work, is that right?
Come to think of it, they did look happy when I flooded the shed on accident and the humidity was way up. I remember thinking I wish I could keep the humidity that high without disintegrating the shed. RH is like 5%, lol dry as a popcorn fart here in satan’s anus.
 
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Mohican

Well-Known Member
With the cloth pots I have learned to add a second container. I fill it with something neutral like pumice and let it collect the runoff. This allows the cloth pot to re-absorb the runoff over time. It also increases humidity.

What is your water pH?
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Tap is 8.4 @ 800+ ppm, thus an ro followed by ph with citric acid to 5.8-6, base also amended with azomite to compensate mineral content.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Usually once in veg once in flower. I use citric because in agriculture it helps keep solid minerals breaking down so I don’t get accumulations, the ground minerals here are predominantly gypsum, calcium, manganese, iron and silica. Obviously this is the small content that gets through as well but minor with ro, I test probe @ 7.2-7.8. Swings are normal for what I know.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Also the amount it takes to ph a gallon is like 5 granules. Not even a smidge of a pinch lol. I have read that in commercial agriculture, to ease that alkaloid clay and assist mineral drainage, citric acid works as well. The last bottle of ph down I bought was “mad farmer” and that’s all it was, citric acid! The cost of one bottle of mad farmer got me 5 lbs of premium food grade citric acid, what appears to be a lifetime supply. Also, the veg plants only suffer if I forget to ph.
I had an issue with city water quality drifting, that the biggest reason I got the ro.
 

colocowboy

Well-Known Member
Is ph supposed to be a different range? I thought I read up, I’m showing age. lol
 
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