what the bet air pump for air stones

ops i forgot to post new pic of the air chiller
if you are wondering way i have all the lines sticking out i did that so i can get at it and see if i have a leak without having to remove the hole unit


now all i have to do is put the lines on then i just turn my tap on a trickle

the other pic is of one you can buy from a store and they cost $750 to $3500 and mine cost me $38 bucks

awsome dude nice invention, i work on cars a few time and now you need some sort of water pump to circulate the water so you won't have a standing still water cooling the hot air and the water will get hotter. Actually you can have a res somewhere that is dark and cool and have water circulating back and forth from the res that will be awsome br0. and then you can freeze up like gallon of water in your fridge and just put it in the res. Goodluck and keep us posted.

wafflehouselover said:

awsome dude nice invention, i work on cars a few time and now you need some sort of water pump to circulate the water so you won't have a standing still water cooling the hot air and the water will get hotter. Actually you can have a res somewhere that is dark and cool and have water circulating back and forth from the res that will be awsome br0. and then you can freeze up like gallon of water in your fridge and just put it in the res. Goodluck and keep us posted.

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well, i know he's getting the water pumped from his nice cold well water...

woul it be possible to recirculate this water back into the well (if maybe the inside was cleaned out real thorough)? i dunno...

well after the well water is pumped from the well it goes into this huge water tank and store the water, the well pump is turned on everytime the psi of that water tank lowers(meaning running water inside the house). So he'll have to do some plumping work to have it pump back into the water tank. Overall it will be too much work, i'd suggest have a res like a 30 gal tubberware somewhere cool.

Good Luck Olds442. I hope your system works well.

im getting a hot tub and i use the sun to heat my water i have a garden hose on my roof of my house and it get really hot so when i but water to my chiller i will put the out line to my roof line and now it heats my hot tub

and for my water tank in my house its big and i can easily put it back to the tank from the chiller i live in a modular home so i can go underneath the house real easy
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wafflehouselover said:

I don't understand why you guys are trying to waste money on ac for when the air outside is 70-80degrees. Work out a plan to suck that cool air in to cool your area, not to mention the Free C02!

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Sorry Waffles, but when I read your post, I about fell out of my chair laughing.
It pushes 115F here a lot of the time for weeks. In the spring when I was flowering my plants, and the temp here was not close to 115F, as it is in the summer, I had my room temps raiseing to the mid 90's everyday. And I had the air moving in and out of that room like a wind tunnel. Some people need to Tim Taylor the grow rooms to lower temps. Those lights put out a lot of heat. This heat does not just magically leave the room. It leaves the room only by transferance. Either by Air or water or what ever you can figure out. Oil will work also. If you pump in 85f air, there is no way you can keep it below 90f.

If you use water to cool the room. Your water will now be warmer as it leaves the system, from removing the heat from the room. Then as it recirculats back into the system, it is warmer then the first time, and takes on even more temp. This is why it is best to have a chiller if useing a Res. The chiller is basically and AC unit that chills the water. So now you are eating up more Elect. then just haveing the AC unit. But maybe OLDS will just let the water from his well run through his system, and then back into the well. This means that his well pump will be running at all times. Hope he has a good pump. Plus the elect it will eat.

Just my opinion.

chabnock, your temp outside is 100 then obviously you don't use "free air" to cool your room, fortunately for those of us living the the northern states we get cool air so that can cool our room.

olds you say you can go underneath your house, have you ever notice how cool it is down there? plus if you put a res down there with water in it you will notice how cool the water is. You can use that, that system is just as good as exausting the heat outside your home.

chabnock my well pumps 30gpm and i have a big tank i mean big tank its bigger then my fridge and the line that goes to my chiller in on a trickle so it will not be running all the time its like taking a pint a minute from the tanki have looked at all the pros and cons

Tempered lens reflector with 6 inch intake/exhaust.

wafflehouselover said:

chabnock, your temp outside is 100 then obviously you don't use "free air" to cool your room, fortunately for those of us living the the northern states we get cool air so that can cool our room.

olds you say you can go underneath your house, have you ever notice how cool it is down there? plus if you put a res down there with water in it you will notice how cool the water is. You can use that, that system is just as good as exausting the heat outside your home.

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my grow room is not in my house i grow in its own building and i take the air from underneath the grow room

my well put out ice cold water so right from my holding tank is a better idea wouldint you think

odds, how do you plan on pumping it back into your holding tank if the psi of the hold tank output would be more powerful then the pump your using to pump into the holding tank(unleast you use a powerful pump which i doubt). The only way i can see that actually happening is if you can pump the water back into your well( i dont know what type of well you got). This can be done if you want it to pump back into your holding tank but it will take alot more work then need be.

wafflehouselover said:

odds, how do you plan on pumping it back into your holding tank if the psi of the hold tank output would be more powerful then the pump your using to pump into the holding tank(unleast you use a powerful pump which i doubt). The only way i can see that actually happening is if you can pump the water back into your well( i dont know what type of well you got). This can be done if you want it to pump back into your holding tank but it will take alot more work then need be.

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yha your right i would need a HP pump i looked at my holding tank well it doseint matter anyways i wasint going to put it back into my tank im going to put it back into my well
by the ways all you guys must think im going to be pumping a lot of water threw my chiller im only going to be putting a pint of water a minut in my chiller it will be a trikle of water you guys shere look for the bad in verything
its the same thing they sell in the hydro shops but homemade see this pic all it si is a rad and a fan in a box with two garden hose hookups one in and one out

I entered this thread looking for opinions on different air pumps... darn!
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well tell use what you what out of a air pump like what way are you growing and so on and maybe we can help still major toke

Olds, you said that you do not want to use an AC unit that uses 3,500 watts. Mine only uses 517 watts under a full load. and it only turns on about 15 minutes out of each hour. I love my set up, works great, cost very little to set up and run. $90.. BAM. The energy rating on this AC unit says that it should only cost $38 dollars per year to run.. Hmmm, not sure I believe that one. But I know it is not very much.

Check it out... 5050 BTU Mechanical Window Type Air Conditioner

The rule of thumb is 2700 btu per 1k bulb. This is accordance to the ballast being outside of the grow area and no other vents(cool air) is entering the grow space.

My Ballast is inside the room. This is going to be my next upgrade. It works great. I have my AC unit set on a timer also. When lights are off. It can not turn on. No need. the inlet, outlet does the job then. Plus I have th AC unit timed to be on for 12 hours a day. And then for vegging, I just use the CFLs. I have my main room growing and 4 different smaller rooms going around my home. These smaller rooms only use cfls for the lower heat output.

I agree with Chabock. Swamp coolers put to much humidity into the air, and that Radiator system with not cool well enough with out eating as much if not more elect. then the AC unit.... i.e. Chiller, or running in back into the well. 1 quart an hour will not displace the BTU's fast enough. If I am wrong, I will bow my head and get knowledge.

Lord Dangly Bits said:

My Ballast is inside the room. This is going to be my next upgrade. It works great. I have my AC unit set on a timer also. When lights are off. It can not turn on. No need. the inlet, outlet does the job then. Plus I have th AC unit timed to be on for 12 hours a day. And then for vegging, I just use the CFLs. I have my main room growing and 4 different smaller rooms going around my home. These smaller rooms only use cfls for the lower heat output.

I agree with Chabock. Swamp coolers put to much humidity into the air, and that Radiator system with not cool well enough with out eating as much if not more elect. then the AC unit.... i.e. Chiller, or running in back into the well. 1 quart an hour will not displace the BTU's fast enough. If I am wrong, I will bow my head and get knowledge.

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first off you did not read the hole thread because if you did then you would know that my air chiller will not use power. and for the humidity i cant see where you would get the humidity from its not a swamp cooler
and for it not working then wy would they sell them in hydro shops. also they can cool the air just as cool as the water in the rad. my rad is thicker then the ones in the hydro shops. mines two inch thick when the one in hydro shops is 1 1/2 thick and the fan that pulling the air throw it is in the 2 pic and its a 1400 CFM fan and the on in the 3 pic is from the hydro shop and that will take lots of power for the fans and the 1 pic is mine
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British thermal unit (Btu) is a standard unit of energy that is used in the United States and sometimes in the U.K. It represents the amount of thermal energy necessary to raise the temperature of one pound of pure liquid water by one degree Fahrenheit at the temperature at which water has its greatest density (39 degrees Fahrenheit). This Energy just does not go POOF, because you took if from point A, to point B. A

Also a True chiller eats up a lot of Elect.. maybe you are not thinking a CHILLER.... NOT a cooler.. two different things.