What is this? 3 weeks info flower

Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
For soil? Why? I never pH my soil (potted plants).......If you have proper soils and they have been limed right. You never have to.
Secondly. ALWAYS pH in-going solutions to 6.5 in veg and 6.7 in bloom and you shouldn't ever have a problem.
Soil for plants that like a pH of 6,,,,,,MJ should have been a 7pH soil!
Start a Ca/Mg use at 5ml per at every watering.
Looks like salt build up with pH coming in to play.

Straight water with the Ca/Mg for 5-7 days - pHed to 7....Then re-start nutrients (what nutrients and how much at a time)

The soil has no perlite or aeration to it,,,,not good. Soil compaction - hard for it to absorb water - anaerobic condition can start.

I'm concerned your not getting all the soil dampened! 20ltr pots and only 1/2ltr water? NOT enough...You're getting run by, not run off!

the core of the soil isn't getting dampened.....back to that lack of aeration again.....Another big question is,,,,,Whats the ppm of that tap water? I'll bet it's over 150ppm and that's not helping.....

Let me know but, for now, do the water and ca/Mg thing

For the farm I have $400 soil specific probes on the newest Hanna portable handheld. That's the kit price for both the meter and the probe!

Simple way with test strips you buy.....I would suggest the higher grade medical ones......you can get them that do .5 increments
the more the better

here's how = http://homeguides.sfgate.com/test-soil-ph-ph-test-strips-39951.html
 
Darkenedangel

Darkenedangel

Active Member
Dr. Who said:
For soil? Why? I never pH my soil (potted plants).......If you have proper soils and they have been limed right. You never have to.
Secondly. ALWAYS pH in-going solutions to 6.5 in veg and 6.7 in bloom and you shouldn't ever have a problem.
Soil for plants that like a pH of 6,,,,,,MJ should have been a 7pH soil!
Start a Ca/Mg use at 5ml per at every watering.
Looks like salt build up with pH coming in to play.

Straight water with the Ca/Mg for 5-7 days - pHed to 7....Then re-start nutrients (what nutrients and how much at a time)

The soil has no perlite or aeration to it,,,,not good. Soil compaction - hard for it to absorb water - anaerobic condition can start.

I'm concerned your not getting all the soil dampened! 20ltr pots and only 1/2ltr water? NOT enough...You're getting run by, not run off!

the core of the soil isn't getting dampened.....back to that lack of aeration again.....Another big question is,,,,,Whats the ppm of that tap water? I'll bet it's over 150ppm and that's not helping.....

Let me know but, for now, do the water and ca/Mg thing

For the farm I have $400 soil specific probes on the newest Hanna portable handheld. That's the kit price for both the meter and the probe!

Simple way with test strips you buy.....I would suggest the higher grade medical ones......you can get them that do .5 increments
the more the better

here's how = http://homeguides.sfgate.com/test-soil-ph-ph-test-strips-39951.html
Click to expand...
Okay cool :) sorry i'd read elsewhere that cannabis liked some acidity to the rootzone, noticed too it won't absorb certain nutrients at pH 7 or the absorbtion will be poor. Phosphorus is meant to be absorbed at 5.0-6.0 right? Looked back on my grow log and noticed that it was just after the buds started fattening that these symptoms appeared. My tap water is just 40ppm. It's quite soft luckily. Yeah I should have really added some perlite and vermiculite in the mix before hand I think. fed them earlier with some ph'd feed (bloom and micro at pH 5.5) hoping the damage will stop progressing)
 
Dr. Who

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
Darkenedangel said:
Okay cool :) sorry i'd read elsewhere that cannabis liked some acidity to the rootzone, noticed too it won't absorb certain nutrients at pH 7 or the absorbtion will be poor. Phosphorus is meant to be absorbed at 5.0-6.0 right? Looked back on my grow log and noticed that it was just after the buds started fattening that these symptoms appeared. My tap water is just 40ppm. It's quite soft luckily. Yeah I should have really added some perlite and vermiculite in the mix before hand I think. fed them earlier with some ph'd feed (bloom and micro at pH 5.5) hoping the damage will stop progressing)
Click to expand...
Start with a neutral soil value (7pH). Then when you transplant the plant into the soil. As the plant grows, it will actually make adjustments TO the soil pH to get it more to where it likes to be....It's easier for organic run plants to remain at that point. Synthetic runs should remain stable as far as pH if you help by not water/feed with way out of whack pH values...
 
Michael Huntherz

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
@Dr. Who isn't always right, but goddamn close to it. Everything he said on this thread seems spot-on to me. I

Personally, I've re-used soil 3 and 4 times without even looking at pH of the soil or the water, and it just seemed to get better every time. I amended it once in the beginning and I let the roots break down in between, stir occasionally for months on end, and when I re-use it I swear it works better every time. No idea what the pH is, but I'm a hobbyist grower, not a bigshot like Doc. ;) if my shit goes wrong the losses are not great, so I just don't sweat it.

I've switched to coco now, and had the typical cal-mag issues at first, but I'm still pretty lazy and shit is doing fine. Monitor your plants closely and you'll learn how to respond without even thinking about it, after a few good cycles.

Dr. Who said:
For the farm I have $400 soil specific probes on the newest Hanna portable handheld.
Click to expand...
I want that thing, just for the nerd-chíc of it. I am a tech-gear slut, even though I rarely use the stuff, I like having it around to fiddle with.
 
Buba Blend

Buba Blend

Well-Known Member
Michael Huntherz said:
@Dr. Who isn't always right, but goddamn close to it. Everything he said on this thread seems spot-on to me. I

Personally, I've re-used soil 3 and 4 times without even looking at pH of the soil or the water, and it just seemed to get better every time. I amended it once in the beginning and I let the roots break down in between, stir occasionally for months on end, and when I re-use it I swear it works better every time. No idea what the pH is, but I'm a hobbyist grower, not a bigshot like Doc. ;) if my shit goes wrong the losses are not great, so I just don't sweat it.

I've switched to coco now, and had the typical cal-mag issues at first, but I'm still pretty lazy and shit is doing fine. Monitor your plants closely and you'll learn how to respond without even thinking about it, after a few good cycles.


I want that thing, just for the nerd-chíc of it. I am a tech-gear slut, even though I rarely use the stuff, I like having it around to fiddle with.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you're a solid soil grower. You switched to coco. I've got to ask. Is the overall smoking experience better, worse or the same with coco?
 
Michael Huntherz

Michael Huntherz

Well-Known Member
Buba Blend said:
Sounds like you're a solid soil grower. You switched to coco. I've got to ask. Is the overall smoking experience better, worse or the same with coco?
Click to expand...
With no other factors considered...I have no way to compare it, lol. I tend to run a different strain every time.

Assuming a perfect dry and cure phase, I'd say it is roughly identical and 90% dependent on genetics regardless of anything else. I might be tempted give soil a slight edge flavor-wise, but that's probably due to pure imagination, or maybe due to having more experience with it. My most recent harvest, of new-to-me danky dank genetics, is pretty spectacular in terms of flavor, aroma, density and potency. I didn't do great with that grow, just OK, but the results are still shockingly good so far. I can say I'm growing some amazing rootballs in the coco, throwing some trees out of 3 gallon fabric pots. I switched to 7 gallon plastic pots for the next run, expecting bigger yields. I am using Royal Gold's Tupur coco blend, which is damn near soil, it has a bunch of chunky perlite, some composted forest material, and bio-char in it; the latter of which seems to serve as a pH buffer and I think it bumps the Cation Exchange Capacity too. I can't remember exactly, but the shit works!
Thanks for asking, man, I don't know how experienced or solid I am, but I have made a few runs at it now.
 
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Darkenedangel

Darkenedangel

Active Member
Dr. Who said:
Start with a neutral soil value (7pH). Then when you transplant the plant into the soil. As the plant grows, it will actually make adjustments TO the soil pH to get it more to where it likes to be....It's easier for organic run plants to remain at that point. Synthetic runs should remain stable as far as pH if you help by not water/feed with way out of whack pH values...
Click to expand...
Okay thankyou, I'll remember that in future. Didn't know that happened, although I've grown a few through vegetative stage in PH 7 soil. Thought perhaps it was too alkaline but now I know the plant adjusts the soil it's not too bad. I'll make sure to PH my feed before feeding them then in future.
 
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