Well N A, The Tankless Water Heater is the Bomb!

Ok. Herr are the answers.
Yes, a little
Scrubber only
Yes, that is the cycle
A ppm controller triggers the pump
A chiller may or may not be required. The warmer the water the warmer the exhaust in your room.

Works pretty sweet though.

I meant NO (I think). I spoke to the inventor of the first water cooled Co2 gen at a convention and he pretty much said what you said. He said he had made modifications but wouldn't describe what those modifications were - he claimed Monoxide was an issue but if you don't sense any then there isn't any and he must have been blowing smoke - er - something. I think that's great.

canndo said:

I meant NO (I think). I spoke to the inventor of the first water cooled Co2 gen at a convention and he pretty much said what you said. He said he had made modifications but wouldn't describe what those modifications were - he claimed Monoxide was an issue but if you don't sense any then there isn't any and he must have been blowing smoke - er - something. I think that's great.

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That is what I remember hearing as well. Cant imagine it would be at any kind of dangerous level but still...

What tankless water heater did you get ? What size is the grow room? I know you said you had to turn one of the burners off so it seems to be bigger then you actually need for your room size.

BTW great looking grow ! What strain is that and did you use CO2 in it prior to this new setup ? What kind of increase are you seeing with the CO2 ?

It's a 6 liter aquah Dont know the model. My room is about 400 CF. I use only one burner for less heat but also since the ppm meter now works in an on/off mode instead of fuzzy logic if I have the unit cranking it will overshoot my set point by several 100 ppm

I was under the impression that tankless water heaters were supposed to be vented just like any gas water heater so that any CO produced is removed. I also thought the venting carried out all of the combustion byproducts, including the CO2. Is this not what happens or is your installation not vented?

Obviously, you're getting a rise in CO2 and not getting an alarm on your CO monitor.

mihjaro said:

I was under the impression that tankless water heaters were supposed to be vented just like any gas water heater so that any CO produced is removed. I also thought the venting carried out all of the combustion byproducts, including the CO2. Is this not what happens or is your installation not vented?

Obviously, you're getting a rise in CO2 and not getting an alarm on your CO monitor.

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Yeah, your supposed to vent them, but ummm venting the co2 out of the room would kind of defeat the purpose don't cha think? I'm telling you dude, they are the same damn things. "special modifications" my ass. Like what? Water movement turns the burner on. You can adjust the intensity of the burner and you can adjust the water flow. The flame is entirely blue. What could they have possibly changed?

I take it back, they do change something. The plastic cover and the fucking decals.

They still work great even with very warm water. It still removes a very high percentage of the heat. I just worried about my pump sitting in 100+ water.

Here's my latest DIY chiller made from a window airconditioner and a new heat exchanger. I've got way less than 200 bucks in it.

It's made from the small 100 200 sq ft room AC units from wal mart. Is easily chilling 2 1000 hps bulbs in fresca sol reflectors.

I had my doubts on whether they really changed anything or not too. I had heard people talking about using a tankless water heater instead. Props looks very good and I'll keep this in mind of I go this route. Would save a little over $100. Actually I think they require some special adpator to go from propane to Gas so probably more like $200 savings.

I think you can buy one or the other. Converting would require replacing parts.

LF what type of contoller are you useing? It seems that it going to be the most expensive part of all but it also necassary right?

Yes and yes. You can sorta get by without a controller but to be quite honest, you really can't. To do it right you just have to bite the bullet and buy a controller. I have a CAP xgc1. I found it on crags list for $400. It's pretty pimp but I don't use many of the features simply because they are controlled independently ( air con, dehu, lights). So any decent ppm controller will work. It is allot to swallow but I promise that if you have warm temps and bright lights, the effects of high co2 will shock you.

thanks LF I think i'm going to go this route. With me new room setup i have 3000w and with outside temps of like 60 i can keep it at 78 just exhausting all the time,but comesummer it'llbe regularly 90 outside and a 20 degree spike from that would be "no bueno". I do have ac but when i runit i have to shut the exhaust off or it just gets sucked out. Is your window ac the walmart 5000 btu kind thats what i got and i think it'll be plenty for my room. on another note do you think that if you set your controller to come on at 1400 and off at 1425 it would be better since you say it over shoots the desired range by a few hunderd ppm? I dont know if you can but might be worth a try.

Well with a co2 generator it's simply an on off. They can run the fuzzy logic system with a gen. If I set I at 1500 it turns on at about 1425 and shuts off and 1500 then climbs to about 1650. I have a fan that blows the co2 towards the controller to help. I did a google search an there is a cap3 or something that is $379 I might be able to score one wholesale if your interested.

(thanks for helpin out with me search. I was looking at the same thing but it only has a 1/2 amp load which isn't enought for any pump. I think i'll have to bite the bullet and go wiht a sentinal cppm-4 or a titan atlas-1. Suck cause there both like 450 bucks or more but i did find a sweet little tankless for 105 bucks shipped ( eccotemo 5L) is just a bit smaller than yours. I also think i'll run propane tanks as I dont want to run gas lines thru me whole house. it says 18 hours of hot water per tank that should last atlest a month

Yeah, that should last at least a month. I used rubber garden rose to run the lines to the rez, works nice. real rubber, not that super cheap looking green shit. I'm surprised the CAP only has a 1/2 amp capability on that swtich. You might call cap. I know that someone simply wired a little relay to theirs to bypass this. The relay basically turns on the power to a circuit that the pump is plugged into.

Just a thought.

yeah I'll look into that. As far as the hose i have like 75' of the cap rubber hose for the E&G probably just use that.

Cool. This is the water pump I have. It was recently on sale for like $35. Works awesome. Actually bought a second one for draining my reservoirs. Takes like 5 minutes to drain 50 gallons and deposit in my utility sink across the room.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-hp-115-volt-submersible-water-pump-98342.html

i guess i was lookin at the wrong controller i just found a cap ppm-4 with up to 10 amp service. and its 199. + 105 for the heater and I'm in the busniess for under 350 fuck yeah ..

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CBQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hydrofarm.com%2Fdownloads%2Ffc%2Fppm-4%2520instructions_6176.pdf&ei=O-t2Tc67HYGssAPilZDBBA&usg=AFQjCNHXDfYFZfWbWJTbd-rjS9qp5Le96Q&sig2=ZEJchFDTI0xpLQfITijkVA