Water: The Most Essential Compound

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
What else can water hold for plants? I have read that iron in water is unabsorbable by plant roots? Dose water supply any other nutes in great quantities such as sulphur or are the quantities generally to low for plant use or just plain unabsorbable?? Peace
 
Water, the fluid of life, makes up more than 80 percent of the weight of the living plant. Within the cells, life processes take place in a water solution. Water also dissolves nutrients in the soil, and this solution is absorbed by the roots. About 99 percent of the water absorbed passes from the roots into the conduits (xylem) of the stem, where it is distributed to the leaves via the xylem of the leaf veins. Transpiration is the evaporation of water from the leaves. The flow of water from the soil, through the plant to the air, is called the transpiration stream. Les then one percent of the water absorbed is broken down to provide electrons (usually in the form of hydrogen) which, along with carbon dioxide, are used to form carbohydrates during photosynthesis. The rest of the water is transpired to the air.

Watering

Water provides hydrogen for plant growth, and also carries nutrients throughout the plant in the transpiration stream. However, it is not true that the more water given a plant, the faster it will grow. Certainly, if a plant is consistently under-watered, its growth rate slows. However, lack of water does not limit photosynthesis until the soil in the pot is dry and the plant is wilting.

The amount of water, and how often to water, varies with the size of the plants and pots, soil composition, and the temperature, humidity, and circulation of the air, to name a few variables. But watering is pretty much a matter of common sense.

During germination, keep the soil surface moist. But once the seedling are established, let the top layer of soil dry out before watering again. This will eliminate any chance of stem rot. Water around the stems rather than on them. Seedlings are likely to fall over if watered roughly; use a hand sprinkler.

In general, when the soil about two inches deep feels dry, water so that the soil is evenly moist but not so much that water runs out the drainage holes and carries away the soil's nutrients. After a few trials, you will know approximately how much water the pots can hold. Marijuana cannot tolerate a soggy or saturated soil. Plants grown in constantly wet soil are slower-growing, usually less potent, and prone to attack from stem rot.

Over-watering as a common problem; it develops from consistently watering too often. When the plants are small, they transpire much less water. Seedlings in large pots need to be watered much less often than when the plants are large or are in small pots. A large pot that was saturated during germination may hold enough water for the first three weeks of growth. On the other hand, a six-foot plant in a six-inch pot may have to be watered every day. Always water enough to moisten all the soil. Don't just wet the surface layer.

Under-watering is less of a problem, since it is easily recognised. When the soil becomes too dry, the plant wilts. Plant cells are kept rigid by the pressure of their cell contents, which are mostly water. With the water gone, they collapse. First the bottom leaves droop, and the condition quickly works its way up the plant until the top lops over. If this happens, water immediately. Recovery is so fast, you can follow the movement of water up the stem as it fills and brings turgor to the leaves. A plant may survive a wilted condition of several days, but at the very least some leaves will drop.

Don't keep the pots constantly wet, and don't wait until the plant wilts. Let the soil go through a wet and dry cycle, which will aerate the soil and aid nutrient uptake. Most growers find that they need to water about once or twice a week.

When some soils get particularly dry, the water is not absorbed and runs down the sides and out the bottom of the pot. This may be a problem the first time you water the soil, or if you allow the soil to get very dry. To remedy, add a couple of drops of liquid detergent to a gallon of water. Detergent acts as a wetting agent and the water is absorbed more readily. First water each pot with about one cup of the solution. Allow the pots to stand for 15 minutes, then finish watering with the usual amount of pure water.

Use tepid water; it soaks into the soil more easily and will not shock the roots. Try to water during the plant's morning hours. Water from the top of the pot. If you do want to water from the bottom with trays (not recommended), place a layer of pebbles or gravel in the trays to insure drainage. Don't leaves the pots sitting in water until the pot is heavily saturated. The water displaces the soil's oxygen, and the plants grow poorly.

Tap water in some areas highly chlorinated, which does not seem to harm Cannabis; and many fine crops are raised with water straight from the tap. But chlorine could possibly affect the plants indirectly, by killing some beneficial micro-organisms in the soil. Chlorine also makes the water slightly acidic. However, neither effect is likely to be serious. Some growers have asked whether they should use pet-shop preparations that are sold to remove chlorine from water in fish tanks. These preparations generally add sodium, which removes the chlorine by forming sodium chloride (table salt). This solution does not harm the plants, although repeated use may make the soil too saline. Probably the best procedure is to simply allow the water to sit in an open container for a few days. The chlorine is introduced to water as the gas Cl2, which dissipates to the air. The water temperature also reaches a comfortable level for the plants.

Hard (alkaline) water contains a number of minerals (e.g., Ca++, Mg++, K+) which are essentially nutrients to the plants. Water softeners remove these minerals by replacing them with sodium, which forms slightly salty water. It is much better to water with hard water, because artificially softened water may prove harmful after some time. Occasionally, water may be acidic (sulphurous). Counteract this by mixing one teaspoon of hydrated lime per quart water and watering with the solution once a month.

Water and Potency

We've seen no studies that have evaluated potency in relation to water. A few studies have mentioned the fact that plants that received less water were slightly more potent. Water stress has been practiced by several marijuana-growing cultures. In parts of India, watering is kept to a minimum during flowering.

To limit watering, water with the usual amounts but as infrequently as possible. To encourage good growth, yet keep watering to a minimum, wait until the plants are a few months old before you curtail watering. Give the plants their normal water and note the number of days before they begin to wilt. As the plants get larger, the water needs increase, but this generally stabilises by the time of flowering
 

GunRunner

Active Member
This is the most informative article on water ever!!! Made me even consider building a a distiller for my next grow, planing to use only home-distilled water ;)

Good job! and +Rep (Soon as I figure out how:P)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
How to install T8 LED Tubes
We know that fluorescent tube has its own ballast which can either be of the inductive or electronic type which is used to drive the tube itself. In a standard energy saving light bulb of the CFL type this is actually contained within the bulb itself but with traditional fluorescent tubes this is normally separate and located inside the light fitting.
Conversely with our T8 LED Tubes the driver is actually part of the LED tube itself so the LED tube is a totally integrated stand alone unit which can simply be wired up to the mains. This means that if you are fitting an LED tube to a conventional fitting then you need to make a few simple modifications to the wiring.
How to fit an LED tube light to a conventional fluorescent tube fitting?There are 7 steps replace fluorescent tube for LED tube.
1: Ensure you’ve disconnected the fitment from the power supply. Carefully remove the fluorescent tube.
2: Fluorescent fitments come in two types. Your fitment will either have an electronic ballast unit, or a starter plus a magnetic ballast unit. Check to see what type of fitment you have.
3: Electronic Ballast. You must remove the electronic ballast unit. If you don’t, you’ll damage your LED tube. Disconnect the wires from the ballast unit. Remove the unit and connect the loose wires to form a circuit. Ensure the connections are secure and insulated.
4: Magnetic Ballast: If you have a fitment with a starter and a magnetic ballast unit, you must remove the starter. You don’t need to remove the ballast unit unless you’re placing more than one LED tube in the fitment. If you remove the ballast unit, connect the loose wires to create a circuit. Make sure you have properly secured and insulated the wires.
5: Your LED tube has a live connection at one end and a neutral connection at the other. Ensure the wires in the fitment match this. If you connect both live and neutral to one end of the LED tube, you’ll cause a short circuit.
6: Carefully fit your new LED tube. The tubes come in sizes to match existing fluorescent fitments. Common lengths are two foot, four foot, five foot and six foot.
7: Reconnect the fitment to the power supply. Now Switch on your new l T8 LED lighting.
Click here enter zhongtian lighting: http://www.ztlights.com
Get your LED ass outa here pal! Peace
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
How to install T8 LED Tubes
We know that fluorescent tube has its own ballast which can either be of the inductive or electronic type which is used to drive the tube itself. In a standard energy saving light bulb of the CFL type this is actually contained within the bulb itself but with traditional fluorescent tubes this is normally separate and located inside the light fitting.
Conversely with our T8 LED Tubes the driver is actually part of the LED tube itself so the LED tube is a totally integrated stand alone unit which can simply be wired up to the mains. This means that if you are fitting an LED tube to a conventional fitting then you need to make a few simple modifications to the wiring.
How to fit an LED tube light to a conventional fluorescent tube fitting?There are 7 steps replace fluorescent tube for LED tube.
1: Ensure you’ve disconnected the fitment from the power supply. Carefully remove the fluorescent tube.
2: Fluorescent fitments come in two types. Your fitment will either have an electronic ballast unit, or a starter plus a magnetic ballast unit. Check to see what type of fitment you have.
3: Electronic Ballast. You must remove the electronic ballast unit. If you don’t, you’ll damage your LED tube. Disconnect the wires from the ballast unit. Remove the unit and connect the loose wires to form a circuit. Ensure the connections are secure and insulated.
4: Magnetic Ballast: If you have a fitment with a starter and a magnetic ballast unit, you must remove the starter. You don’t need to remove the ballast unit unless you’re placing more than one LED tube in the fitment. If you remove the ballast unit, connect the loose wires to create a circuit. Make sure you have properly secured and insulated the wires.
5: Your LED tube has a live connection at one end and a neutral connection at the other. Ensure the wires in the fitment match this. If you connect both live and neutral to one end of the LED tube, you’ll cause a short circuit.
6: Carefully fit your new LED tube. The tubes come in sizes to match existing fluorescent fitments. Common lengths are two foot, four foot, five foot and six foot.
7: Reconnect the fitment to the power supply. Now Switch on your new l T8 LED lighting.
Click here enter zhongtian lighting: http://www.ztlights.com
Get your LED ass outa here pal! Peace
 

dickkhead

Active Member
whats the best water to put into my aeroponic system? I own a water ionizer fro my drinking water will this help?

thanks!
 

doc111

Well-Known Member
whats the best water to put into my aeroponic system? I own a water ionizer fro my drinking water will this help?

thanks!
It all depends on the quality of the water you are using to begin with. Are you using tapwater? Is it city water or well? It's probably a good idea to have your water tested if you have any doubts about it. I don't think your ionizer will do you much good if the water you are putting through it is crap to begin with. With aero and hydro, water quality is a bit more critical since it IS the growing medium.;-)
 

RawBudzski

Well-Known Member
I would purchase your water if you have doubts.
I personally have never had issues with Tap if I allow it to sit for 24+ hours. I used to Buy all my water, then I realized how tough the plant actually is.
 

dickkhead

Active Member
I would purchase your water if you have doubts.
I personally have never had issues with Tap if I allow it to sit for 24+ hours. I used to Buy all my water, then I realized how tough the plant actually is.
No issues with my water I live in northeast it's town water not well. Want the best results that's all! Maybe I'll veg with tap and last few weeks of flowering se Poland spring while I'm flushing?
 
Water is most important for human life. Seventy percent part of human body that made by water which make it healthy and well fitted. It make well to cells and bones of body.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
I would purchase your water if you have doubts.
I personally have never had issues with Tap if I allow it to sit for 24+ hours. I used to Buy all my water, then I realized how tough the plant actually is.
I found out my tap water is a little soft so add cal/mag most times and never had a problem again, is funny how people automatically think their plants dont like tapwater when in reallity most tap water is fine or just needs some small adjustment. Wish they would just check with the water suppliers first!lol!

I see no difference in plant growth or health between leaving the water to sit for 24hours and straight out of the tap. I only let my tap water sit during the winter to bring it up to room temperature but it dosent make my plants any better, levels of chlorine in my water are within defined limits and so miniscule that they change nothing. Peace
 

Plant Guru

Member
Having been a state certified water quality treatment operator for years in California and now a horticulturist, I can add that the presentation here was straight to the point, accurate and well done. The quality of water is too often ignored in both plants and people. Getting plants to uptake nutrients properly in poor quality water is a real issue. Because RO water, which I like to use with indoor plants has the micro nutrients (as well as macro) removed, it is important to use plant nutrients that focus on restoring the needed micro nutrients. All plant nutrient contain and advertize their content of macro (NPK)... keep an eye out for those trace nutrients like iron, magnesium, boron, calcium, zinc. these micro nutrients and others are vital.
 

Chong9

Active Member
Hi and thanks for this great thread

I was hoping for a little direction based on your info. I am using dwc and likely to use advanced nutrients sensi as my basic nute but i dont know about how best to prep the water other than ph adjust and bubble for a little extra chlorine kick. Im unsure if i should soften the water somehow or treat it for anything else. Any help would be much appreciated, Thanks
This is the info i have on my tap water-

Hardness Level - Hard
Hardness Clark - 15
Hardness French -22
Hardness German -12
Aluminium - 5.88 μgAl/l
Chlorine -0.22 mg/l
Coliform bacteria -0
Colour - 0.58 mg/l Pt/Co
Conductivity - 498.11 μS/cm at 20°C
E.coli bacteria - 0
Fluoride - 0.04 mgF/l
Iron - 10.25 μgFe/l
Manganese - 3.95 μgMn/l
Nitrate- 38.08 mgNO3/l
Odour - 0
Pesticides- 0 μg/l
pH - 7.47
Sodium - 17.88 mgNa/l
Plumbing Metals
Copper -0.068 mgCu/l
Lead -1.03 μgPb/l
Nickel - 3.56μgNi/l
 
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