Uncle Ben's Gardening Tweeks and Pointers

Uncle Ben said:

Seems half of my posts point this out. Why these vendors think K promotes foliage is beyond me. If you reversed the ratio, a 6-1-2, it would be a perfect NPK for foliage production/maintenance.

UB

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• Highly concentrated.
• Rapid and complete uptake of the key nutrients.
• Accelerated chelation of essential macro and micro nutrients.
• Improves yield and quality of harvest.
• Improves moisture retention in plants and reduce moisture stress.
• Stimulates enzymatic systems in plants to increase plant respiration.
• Provides a valuable source of carbon for soil micro-organisms.
• Compatible with all fertilizer programs/ brands, both biological biomineral or synthetic.

notoriousb said:

I used the Bio Bizz Bloom fert last round but others who use the their products say the BioHeaven is important to use in conjunction with the BioBloom but after reading about it on their website, I think it's just another hyped up product focused on scamming more $$. what do you guys think--

from their site http://www.biobizz.nl/products.php?nid=187&cat=p

Plant Energy Booster
BioHeaven is a specially formulated Plant Energy booster which contains carefully selected biological stimulants, such as amino-acids. Amino-acids are the basic building blocks for the proteins and enzymes, which are essential to the structure and the metabolism of plants.

As a result, BioHeaven enhances utilization and translocation of nutrients in fertilizer blends & foliars and boosts up the anti-oxidant system of the plant, rids the plant of toxins built up during periods of stress, repairs chlorophyll and restimulates the plant.

The L-amino acids used by BioBizz for BioHeaven are extracted from soybean cake and other organic protein sources via enzymatic hydrolysis and fermentation. This process ensures the amino acids to be extracted in L-form, the only absorbed and used by plants. Besides the L-amino acids, BioHeaven contains natural aged humus, one of the most versatile components in soil environments. This component, in combination with other operative substances in BioHeaven, increases extremely the quantity of minerals in the soil. Normally, the percentage of minerals uptake lies around the 5-10%, the substances within BioHeaven can raise it up to 95%.

These processes stimulated by BioHeaven enhance the availability of nutritionally important trace elements, which are capable of entering plant cells.
- Available in bottles of 250ml, 500ml, 1L, 5L or 10L.



Benefits

• Highly concentrated.
• Rapid and complete uptake of the key nutrients.
• Accelerated chelation of essential macro and micro nutrients.
• Improves yield and quality of harvest.
• Improves moisture retention in plants and reduce moisture stress.
• Stimulates enzymatic systems in plants to increase plant respiration.
• Provides a valuable source of carbon for soil micro-organisms.
• Compatible with all fertilizer programs/ brands, both biological biomineral or synthetic.

For every system SOIL, HYDRO and AEROPONICS!

Dose
2 - 5 ml per liter. Start using in the second week of grow. Stop using two weeks before harvest.

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Uncle Ben said:

Yeah, if the sales pitch says it, it must have credibility. My plants can't read. They have never received any cannabis specific foods (and never will) that CLAIM they contain alot of miracle crap like amino acids. They just don't care and grow like wildfire.

go figure.....

What one needs to do is get the company to explain to a panel of horticultural experts what each one of the "benefits" is and means, in the real world of gardening. Their world is of one focus, marketing for profits using whatever means possible to make the sale. (see my sig line)

UB

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notoriousb said:

I can feel my marketing bs meter honing in now allowing me to really sift through all these ridiculously overpriced shit products.

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jjfoo said:

my friend just brought me a bottle of 'finisher', it has a guaranteed analysis of

N .0083%
P2O5 (Phosphate) .011%
K2O (Soluable Potash) .0505%

I'm a bit confused, does this seem really low on everything?

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potpimp said:

Low??? It's almost non-existent.

Uncle Ben I put my seeds in water for about 18 hours and then into the potting soil I mixed up. I had watered it a little so it was nice and moist before putting the seed in place and covering it with 1/8 to 1/4" of loose, fluffy mix. I've had them out in the sun and they have gotten rain which has kept the soil wet for two days. Since I can't see the seeds progress and I've always used either the paper towel ditty or soaking them for 24 hours, I'm beginning to get nervous about this. How long before I start seeing some sprouts?

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jjfoo said:

I'm reading a tomato growing article on the Jack's Classic site. They are saying to add epsom salt for mag. Why don't they just add the mag to their nutrients?

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jjfoo said:

my friend just brought me a bottle of 'finisher', it has a guaranteed analysis of

N .0083%
P2O5 (Phosphate) .011%
K2O (Soluable Potash) .0505%

I'm a bit confused, does this seem really low on everything?

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potpimp said:

Low??? It's almost non-existent.

Uncle Ben I put my seeds in water for about 18 hours and then into the potting soil I mixed up. I had watered it a little so it was nice and moist before putting the seed in place and covering it with 1/8 to 1/4" of loose, fluffy mix. I've had them out in the sun and they have gotten rain which has kept the soil wet for two days. Since I can't see the seeds progress and I've always used either the paper towel ditty or soaking them for 24 hours, I'm beginning to get nervous about this. How long before I start seeing some sprouts?

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Germinating Cannabis Seeds (for Bio Growers)

Your seedlings will be alot better off if you germinate directly in soil - less handling and mechanical disturbance means less chance of physical damage to the plant's taproot (and roothairs) and less food reserves used to position itself due to the natural hormonal influence called Gravitropism. That translates into less food reserves used and increased seedling vigor, especially in the very early critical stages of seedling development.

This is my foolproof method for Cannabis Seed Germination in soil:

First, if harvesting seeds from my own crosses, I air-dry newly harvested seeds for a couple of weeks, and then store them in the refrigerator with a little rice. Cold-treatment seems to increase viability and germination rates, especially with indica-dom strains. I almost always get a 100% germination rate with quality seedstock.

Soak the seeds in plain water for 12 hours prior to planting to hydrate them, which will speed up germination. In general, good seeds will sink, bad seeds will remain floating (they contain air, not an embryo). I first sterilize seeds in a bleach solution (1 Tbsp. bleach/1 gallon of water) for 1/2 hour to kill any fungus residing on the seedcoat.

Sterilize enough *damp* fine soil with heat to germinate all of your seeds. You can do this by treating the damp soil to temps of (no more than) 200F for 20 mins in a conventional oven, or in a microwave oven on high for 2 minutes, while stirring a couple of times. Your goal is to get and hold the entire soil mix's temperature at 170F to 180F for about 20 minutes which can be monitored with a probe type thermometer. Let the mix cool thoroughly. This will insure that damp-off fungus spores have been killed in the soil mix. Make sure the soil mix is light and humusy (not real coarse). You can add a little sand or vermiculite to aid in drainage and weight.

Buy some white 20oz styrofoam "drinking glasses", commonly called "Styro-Cups", and punch holes in the bottom (and side bottom) for drainage. I use a red-hot ice pick for this. These containers are 6 1/2" tall and will allow ample room for the taproot to grow before cotyledon emergence which will increase your seedling's vigor. The taproot (radicle) is already at least 4" long at the point of emergence - don't restrict it (in order to maximize seedling growth rate). Styro-Cups can be found on the shelf displaying picnic items at your local grocery store.

Fill the pots almost to the top with your soil mix, water well to settle the mix, take a pencil and make a small hole about 1/4" to 1/2" deep, NO deeper, and drop *one* seed in. Cover the seed with *fine* soil, only enough to top up the hole, firm lightly with your finger, and lightly water until water runs freely thru the drain holes. Place in a warm spot around 80F/26C. Do NOT cover the cup with saran wrap or anything else. The seed has been hydrated from the soaking and will germinate soon. This container should not require further watering until the seedling is up and running.

During the first couple of days, mist the top soil surface lightly (if need be), never allowing the top to crust over, but not to the point that the medium stays waterlogged which will invite pythium rot (damp-off). "Less is more" at this point. Do NOT water this pot any more until the seedling is up, and only if it needs it at the point of emergence. Again, no need to cover with plastic wrap as the radicle (taproot) will grow at least 4" before the cotyledons emerge from the soil. IOW, even though you can't see it, the plant's root is seeking and finding moisture at the container's lower soil levels. I cannot emphasize this enough. The seedling will emerge anywhere from 2 to 10 days from the time you sowed it.

That's all to it! With good care, your faves will be ready to transplant within 1 to 2 weeks, and will easily slip out of the "cup" with a solid rootball that will never know it's been disturbed if potted up gently and quickly. Move up to a final pot of 3 to 5 gallons to sex and finish.

An effective transplant solution can be made using (no more than) 1 teaspoon of a 15-30-15 fert and 10 drops of Superthrive per gallon of water. Take note regarding the immediate growth spurt after this transition!

Good luck,
Uncle Ben

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dacotua said:

UB-
I have posted only 1 stupid question to you in the past and It will never happen again. I am embarrased.
Dyna-Gro foliage-pro 9-3-6 kicks ass! Thank-you for the advice. Everything is green and no more yellow 3 weeks in to flower. I cant wait till my next grow. +rep 2 U. I am fortunate to have read your posts with a clear head. Go 7-(9)-15-(3)-19-(6). DAC

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Solcyn26 said:

...everything went fine until i started mixing my bloom and veg at about 2.5 ml each per gallon which shot it up to about 1150 ppm..i didnt get any nute burn which i feared because of the high ppms but im getting some yellowing again..im not sure im understanding correctly?

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riddleme said:

This is not my pic

But it shows a very near perfect garden and is an example of what new growers are here trying to learn

Shows that lights are not being crammed down the plants throat, they are placed properly for solid even coverage

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Cap'n Haddock said:

I maintain it improves the flavour and makes my girls absorb the fert better, anyone else do the same?

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