True HP Aero For 2011

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Thought you guys might be interested to see how my current hpa grow is doing.

During veg I was running ~8 seconds on & 10 off. Now that they are in flower, I cut the time in half, due to cooler temps

Pic 1 is a 18" cola, she her seeds should make an awesome SOG grow in hpa

Pic 2 is ~ 26" christmas tree shape with 3 sets of sides branches

Pic 3/4 grow is in my LED tent (~90 actual led watts + 2 Reptile bulbs) using a DIY modified DWC. She's 31" tall with strong fibrous side branches. She is the biggest and fattest, even though the HOT5 tent is shining 432watts

FYI All seeds were started at the same time

I pollinated one branch (or bud site) on all 4, as they each have unique qualities

Come on by IC to watch the finish
 

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BflexNJshore

Well-Known Member
Thought you guys might be interested to see how my current hpa grow is doing.

During veg I was running ~8 seconds on & 10 off. Now that they are in flower, I cut the time in half, due to cooler temps

Pic 1 is a 18" cola, she her seeds should make an awesome SOG grow in hpa

Pic 2 is ~ 26" christmas tree shape with 3 sets of sides branches

Pic 3/4 grow is in my LED tent (~90 actual led watts + 2 Reptile bulbs) using a DIY modified DWC. She's 31" tall with strong fibrous side branches. She is the biggest and fattest, even though the HOT5 tent is shining 432watts

FYI All seeds were started at the same time

I pollinated one branch (or bud site) on all 4, as they each have unique qualities

Come on by IC to watch the finish
I am always interested in some one else's data!

40327.jpg

I'm at 3 on, 1:42 off. I don't have any other data as this is my first trial and error session. The timer I use ( http://www.marshbellofram.com/diversified-electronics/files/2012/07/TBG.pdf ) has an on/off in 0.1 second increments from 0.1 to 1:42

Can you post some root.jpg , please?

Whose LED's are you using? I use blackstar, I have the old and new "240 watt" (I think it draws 135 watts actual).
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
Awesome root holder;-)

My method does not 'comply' with those who use an accumulator. I adjust by feel. I literally feel the roots (use the back of my hand) just prior to an on cycle. As the ambient heat in my room drops (it gets freakin hot in September when I veg), I can go to shorter o/o times.

Lights are off for another 30 minutes, but will take a root shot. Sorry, but I do not have a hot holder. They look like a creamy white pony tail

Not using leds in the hpa tent, only HOT5s + aquarium bulbs. LEDs are in the other tent, where I am using a 3+ year old Sunshine Systems UFO 90 (~ 70w), but as you can see I have a diy bar with supplement 3-7 watt led bulbs (~ 20w) + the two reptile bulbs (~76w). DIY is where it's at for me. It's super simple. I use vanity fixtures and Y sockets, but have plans to mount sockets on a few wooden rails.

Root Porn, sans boobs.

Note the lighting grate is raised up above the bottom of the pod, so the roots do not collect there, where they would soak in runoff (bad)


IMG_1134.jpgIMG_1136.jpg
 

ASMALLVOICE

Well-Known Member
Awesome post folks,

I have a friend that grows this way, and his setup is in a metal building and the root box is over 6' tall and 12 feet wide and 4' width ( he actually goes into the "root box" to clean after every crop), and there is a catwalk to get up to the actual plant sites, He tells me, If HPA is done correctly, the roots will be as long as the plant is tall. I have seen root masses from his harvests that were over 5' long and bigger around than a 5 gallon bucket, but his setup takes a lot of room, mainly the height, from floor to top of plants is almost 12 feet.

He has a boat load of free time and money, he said the initial setup is pretty high, for the proper pumps, timers and fittings. He did say that the nute usage is drastically reduced from other forms of soiless growing. I would love to give this a try, but I have nowhere near the facility to do what he is doing. Let me hit the lotto, and its on...lol

Peace,

Asmallvoice
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Hi Asmallvoice... It would be cool to have such chamber heights, but it seems we can get some good results with only a couple feet of height and the roots are happy to pile up on the floor as long as there is adequate drainage there seems to be no issues. This makes it alot more feasable for normal people who lack a personal bat-cave ;)
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
I'm about to start a new AA chamber design- I think I've got a cheap, easy and well insulated design that will work well... I'll write more about it very soon...
 

BflexNJshore

Well-Known Member
Glad to see a little foot traffic again. No root porn to post yet. All the babies got a little fungus so I jumped ship and finally went soil (never touched the stuff). A few more weeks of waiting and......


imagesCAUHLWD4.jpg


Begun, the clone war has.
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Glad to see a little foot traffic again. No root porn to post yet. All the babies got a little fungus so I jumped ship and finally went soil (never touched the stuff). A few more weeks of waiting and......


View attachment 2433300


Begun, the clone war has.
Hey, did you use the 6 drops or so of bleach per gallon in your rez? It should have curbed any of that away... What were your chamber temps like? They really like being under 70 or so... You put all that work in, don't give up so soon bro! I'm starting my build today and will be fully operational within 2-3 weeks- lets keep the torch burning :)

After months of research- I got me some new AA nozzles I think are gonna be real nice- so I can't wait to give them a spin! I will have every issue I had in my old designs sorted- mainly the heat issue- so I am really quite excited!
 

BflexNJshore

Well-Known Member
Havent given up, I am just regrouping! I didnt check the res temps, didnt try the bleach (I will on the next run) Revisiting the leave bag idea for a root chamber, this time they will be hung up like hanging plants, the lights will be stationary. Im thinking of using some computer fans to control the root chamber temps.

As far as AA, a compressor will piss off my wife...lol
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Havent given up, I am just regrouping! I didnt check the res temps, didnt try the bleach (I will on the next run) Revisiting the leave bag idea for a root chamber, this time they will be hung up like hanging plants, the lights will be stationary. Im thinking of using some computer fans to control the root chamber temps.

As far as AA, a compressor will piss off my wife...lol
Cool, sounds good, keep us updated... Well, I have a craftsman compressor and an old working refrigerator in the garage... I plan to take the compressor off the fridge and swap it for the compressor motor on my craftsman (and use the pressure regulator, tank etc already on there. It seems for a few bucks in fittings and a few hours work I will have a cheap compressor not much louder than a refrigerator ;)
 

konagirl420

Well-Known Member
Awww thanks sweetheart, wish I could for real ;)- I am on my way to Miami for a cruise right now and then I am moving to Co in march, would love to see you before then or just settle back in Hi, who knows maybe I will win the lotto hahahahaha ;) def miss the Hawaiian showers hehee
 

ounevinsmoke

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, new to this thread. I'm a Hydro guy but have a lot of interest in Aero. Saw the amount of info and decided to dive in and read a bit.
You guys seem to have been dedicated to the "Build" aspect of growing while trying to achieve the fuzzy white roots. As I clicked through page after page and not seeing many success pictures I'm starting to wonder if its really worth the effort. I'm not trying to bash you guys as I saw some of those pom pom roots that looked better than anything I have ever produced but sheesh. At what point do you say this is just too much hassle?

Also, I have a few questions as I may take this venture myself in the future. At what root zone temps do problems arise. As you may or may not know in DWC rootslime can be a major problem but can be combated with good beneficials. Can the same be said for aero or are the misters to small for benes to get through. Seems like the major problems you guys had were basic timing of your misters/distance/temp/root zone size. Is it preferred in Aero running a total clean setup with H202?

I may have missed some of the reasoning behind you guys setup choices as I did not read the reference sources that the thread starter provided.

So in clear question form.

#1. Can Beneficials be used in Aero or is it clean setup only?
#2. Are the Fuzzy white Hairs producing flowering monsters up top? In regards to the few of you who got the pom pom root effect.
#3. Is the veg and flowering time cut down significantly?
#4. What became the most ideal environment to achieve the white fuzzy roots? Include average distance of misters,humidity, on-off time of mist, nute ppm & PH.
#5. Was the before stated "less nutrient usage" achieved with the run to waste system?
#6. Do the fuzzy white roots make your plant more susceptible to nute burn?
 

Trichy Bastard

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, new to this thread. I'm a Hydro guy but have a lot of interest in Aero. Saw the amount of info and decided to dive in and read a bit.
You guys seem to have been dedicated to the "Build" aspect of growing while trying to achieve the fuzzy white roots. As I clicked through page after page and not seeing many success pictures I'm starting to wonder if its really worth the effort. I'm not trying to bash you guys as I saw some of those pom pom roots that looked better than anything I have ever produced but sheesh. At what point do you say this is just too much hassle?

Also, I have a few questions as I may take this venture myself in the future. At what root zone temps do problems arise. As you may or may not know in DWC rootslime can be a major problem but can be combated with good beneficials. Can the same be said for aero or are the misters to small for benes to get through. Seems like the major problems you guys had were basic timing of your misters/distance/temp/root zone size. Is it preferred in Aero running a total clean setup with H202? Yes, and chlorine is probably even better as it has staying power...

I may have missed some of the reasoning behind you guys setup choices as I did not read the reference sources that the thread starter provided.

So in clear question form.

#1. Can Beneficials be used in Aero or is it clean setup only? Yes, however due to nozzle clogs and using nutrients that need no bennies to break them down it makes the most sense to just run sterile...

#2. Are the Fuzzy white Hairs producing flowering monsters up top? In regards to the few of you who got the pom pom root effect. The pics you saw were actually not that great- just a start. The pom-pom look is actually a sign the mist is not properly sized/adequately directed due to less than perfect nozzles. The best roots go down to the bottom of the chamber where they crawl around everywhere back up the walls and to the ceiling of the chamber and are even whiter and fuzzier than those posted. You should look at tree farmers threads, or G-loves. Yes, the idea is once the roots are extremely healthy and efficient, the results should have positive effect up top. Is it worth all the trouble though? Not if your only goal is final numbers, but yes if you like the reward of doing things uniquely.

#3. Is the veg and flowering time cut down significantly? Hydro is faster than soil, aero is probably faster than hydro (if ideally dialed in)

#4. What became the most ideal environment to achieve the white fuzzy roots? Include average distance of misters,humidity, on-off time of mist, nute ppm & PH. That's a loaded questiion. If you really read more here and understand- there are no exact paramaters that work universally. As in all growing, you will have different variables like atmospheric pressure, humidity, chamber volume, plant stage of growth, etc... Learning to read your plants and working to make the best of your particular situation is what separates the boys from the men. A generalization would be most importantly to understand the underlying principles we preach here, and incorporate them into your design. Things like using an accumulator are non-negotiable if you want any of the touted benefits.

#5. Was the before stated "less nutrient usage" achieved with the run to waste system? Yes! the run to waste, when set up properly, should have only a few ounces runoff per day in a given chamber as the roots absorb almost all of your misted nutes. One of the greatest advantages is not having to adjust ph/ec after filling youe rez...

#6. Do the fuzzy white roots make your plant more susceptible to nute burn? Yes, because they are extremely efficient, and the fact that the mist evaporates quickly after being sprayed (effectively concentrating the nutes in the air)- you'll be using lower feeding levels- say usually not ever more than 800ppm on the .7 scale at the peak of flower... This is a real money saver over time on top of the fact very little electricity or water is used in comparison to hydro with it's recirculating pumps running all day.


Welcome Ounevinsmoke... To be honest, if you're focused on results and not much concerned with the method, or tinkering, then there are more recommendable ways to go. Aero is still evolving, and I suppose we're enjoying helping along the evolution... It has the potential to be the best, fastest, cheapest/most conservative, lowest maintanance of all methods IMO, once it is setup and dialed in... I've answered your questions above with my opinions in red... In fairness, I had major heat issues, my chamber was climbing into the 100's and it really put a damper on things and most of the others have deviated from some of the important principles because they either didn't understand or believe they weren't important, or they were trying to cut corners or save money. To be honest, following this method really requires an all or nothing attitude at first- only after replicating good results should someone try to put their own spin on it IMHO. My new design currently being built is like a giant ice-chest with chilled water recirculating throughout to keep the temps down. Ideally 65-70f, for our favorite plant and problems seem to start above 75f- although aero at least seems slightly more forgiving on temps than hydro.
 
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