True HP Aero For 2011

PetFlora said:

You are confusing 'mesh' with' microns'. The higher the mesh, the smaller the micron. 200 mesh = 60 micron. 100 mesh= 150 micron

I am using DM nutes- extremely clean. BUT I recently discovered on their website that the order they are introduced will make a difference in precip. Now I wasn't getting a lot and the bulkhead from the rez is higher than the bottom so the preciped nutes weren't a problem there. It's a mystery, but I expect to solve it.

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I'm not confusing the two, but only pointing out that perhaps smaller than 60 microns will sort out your clogging issues. I was thinking 5 microns filtration would be better, although I don't believe any mesh filters go down to that level, so you'd have to switch to a canister type such as the one I got. I obviously don't speak from experience on the filters, but one thing I do know: Make sure you always add your silica first- it tends to cause precipitates if added after some of the other things. Matter of fact my most recent bottle of silica always tends to have some grit in it straight out of the bottle- that's yet another reason I was looking to filter pre pump/accumulator.

Mike Young said:

I got tired of spritzing my baby grrl and decided to put my equipment to work. Some of it, anyway. Also, turns out, subway makes a pretty decent humidome.

Edit: This clone was cut from a plant in flower, so it's gonna take awhile to revert back to veg, hence the dome even though I've had it for over a week.

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Way to take the "subway challenge" . I only wonder if it may get too wet for the foliage? If so, you can always put the seperation in so the roots get the mist, and have the dome on top for the leaves. Nonetheless it's a cool experiment, and I hope it works out for ya- keep us posted.

It's already working better than I imagined. I'm able to put the light within 8-10 inches of the dome. The majority of the mist hits the top of the dome, and is quickly evaporated by the heat of the light making for one hell of a humid enviroment. Plant has perked up quite a bit in a small amount of time.

MikeY: Great idea. What are your W/D cycle times?
TB: I find DMs own website confusing regarding when to add Silica...

To use Gold Range SILICA, simply follow these easy guidelines!

If you are using Gold Range ADD.27, Gold Range POTASH+ or Gold Range ZONE then add this next according to the Usage Instructions. WTF? Add what next, the Silica or the nutes?

But in their grower's Tips section it is clear: Always add all permitted additives (Gold Range ADD.27, Gold Range SILICA ,Gold Range ZONE etc.) to reservoir / tank water before adding your main nutrient in equal parts of A and B. But when using 2 or more of them, is there a specific order? I'm guessing Silica goes first.

I have always read to add silica as the very first additive. A friend performed a test and noted precipitation if it was added after the main nutes above 600 ppm. Not sure about some of the other things, but I would add silica first. It's basically sand, so being in there first should not effect anything else that I can think of.

PF, I am running a .5 sec burst every 10 mins. I can't believe how well its working. I was a bit unsure about my ability to cut healthy clones, but this is gonna save my ass, I think.

I too have noticed some weird reactions when adding silica. Seemed to me that it was reacting with the calmag, and not the aqua flakes I use. I can say that with confidence, because calmag was not something I used until really late in my last run. Before the addition, I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. Hope this helps.

MikeY: One of the ideas I have yet to follow up on is to run a separate mist system during veg, just for the plants. From what I've read, morning and late afternoon are good times.

Google Advanced Foliar Techniques Explored: Herd's an excerpt

Leaves

The exchange of oxygen and carbon dioxide in the leaf (as well as the loss of water vapor in transpiration) occurs through pores called stomata (singular = stoma).

Normally stomata open when the light strikes the leaf in the morning and close during the night.
The immediate cause is a change in the turgor of the guard cells. The inner wall of each guard cell is thick and elastic. When turgor develops within the two guard cells flanking each stoma, the thin outer walls bulge out and force the inner walls into a crescent shape. This opens the stoma. When the guard cells lose turgor, the elastic inner walls regain their original shape and the stoma closes.

Time Osmotic Pressure, lb/in2
7 A.M. 212
11 A.M. 456
5 P.M. 272
12 midnight 191

The table shows the osmotic pressure measured at different times of day in typical guard cells. The osmotic pressure within the other cells of the lower epidermis remained constant at 150 lb/in2. When the osmotic pressure of the guard cells became greater than that of the surrounding cells, the stomata opened. In the evening, when the osmotic pressure of the guard cells dropped to nearly that of the surrounding cells, the stomata closed.

Opening stomata

The increase in osmotic pressure in the guard cells is caused by an uptake of potassium ions (K+). The concentration of K+ in open guard cells far exceeds that in the surrounding cells. This is how it accumulates:
Blue light is absorbed by phototropin which activates
a proton pump (an H+-ATPase) in the plasma membrane of the guard cell.
ATP, generated by the light reactions of photosynthesis, drives the pump.
As protons (H+) are pumped out of the cell, its interior becomes increasingly negative.
This attracts additional potassium ions into the cell, raising its osmotic pressure.
Closing stomata

Although open stomata are essential for photosynthesis, they also expose the plant to the risk of losing water through transpiration. Some 90% of the water taken up by a plant is lost in transpiration.

Abscisic acid (ABA) is the hormone that triggers closing of the stomata when soil water is insufficient to keep up with transpiration (which often occurs around mid-day).
hth

Finally! I'm trying to grow something

Thought you might find this interesting. Both root systems are from the same age plants.

In fact both plants were in the same dwc system 10 days ago. (fyi the dwc could use more air and water circulation). The second pic shows the root system after 10 days in and aero set up. We have the timer on to longer right now to be on the safe side and to get the roots going.
We could easily get way more hairs if we dropped the misting time, but when improving the root system we have found it better to error on the side of having to long of mist time.

Finally a side-by-side. Good job. That's why PodRacer called them pompoms. As anyone can see, aero roots need lots of space.

How much different do the plants look? I know this can be tuff, until full bloom, but the corresponding plant photos serve the collective education

Dems some good lookin roots, for sure. From a 5 gallon bucket even. Damn. More info on the system, please. Above the Lid pics would be sweet as well. Nice job!

There is a large difference in the way the plants are developing. The ones in the aeroponic are taking off, while the other ones are just kind of hanging out. But they are in different rooms so it really is not a fair comparison. We do not plan on blooming with DWC.

Sorry I don't feel comfortable taking pictures above the lid They are 6 gallon buckets that hold 7 gallons of liquid total. I believe he is using a 2" net cup, but it could of been a 3". There is no rockwell at all.

Would it be too much to inquire about pump, nozzles, timing, etc...? Those are some of the best looking roots I've seen. I think I can speak for many, in that we must know more about your setup. Thanks.

Mike Young said:

Would it be too much to inquire about pump, nozzles, timing, etc...? .

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I would like to know that and the positioning of the misters as well, thanks

Using the same as everyone else. 8800 pump, red nozzles, etc... I think he was at about 1.8 seconds on and 1:45 off. This is a little to much mist but when switching root systems we like to go with higher mist.

It took a ton of practice and really has cost us quite a bit of time and money to get to this point.

Nice job Chennemann, and glad you decided to stop by. Did you ever get an answer or guidance from tree farmer to your questions? I think those roots look great, and understand you are erring to the wetter side on purpose. I would love to get an update on how they fare as you dial down the mist for sure. I think so far those are the best 5 gallon bucket aero roots I have ever seen too. I have been under the impression however that it will be hard to keep the coverage/saturation proper in a bucket that size to ever reach the full fuzzy potential, but I sure hope you prove that wrong- definitely off to a great start!.

Would like to know: nozzle placement and count, precise mist timings including actual mist run on and the pause time in between cycles as well, and pressure you run the misters at, or at least liquid volume per cycle- if it's not asking too much sir. I understand if you haven't measured the real world mist timing as in the method atomizer mentions using frame by frame video.
Congrats- you have nicer roots than 99% of the people out there!

Sorry I've been around less lately- started a possible new job/business venture and my schedule is more than full all of a sudden. Just for the record I ordered parts from h20 distributors and freshwater systems within a couple hours of eachother- and they both arrived the same day only a few days later- so I really got lucky I guess- haha. I have all the jg parts to do a mist test, but the mobile car jumping station I was going to use to power the pump would't charge- assume the battery is sulphated from sitting. I could not find anything around the house 12v that would generate 9 amps (considered using my pc power supply but didn't wanna risk it), so I guess I'm gonna have to pick up a new auto battery over the weekend hopefully.

Trichy - We are using 30 gallon for larger plants grows. The 6 gallons were meant for smaller plants. We have found if you give them a zz top beard trim they respond great up to 4 weeks in to bud. After that the buds are to heave to move around.

chennemann said:

Trichy - We are using 30 gallon for larger plants grows. The 6 gallons were meant for smaller plants. We have found if you give them a zz top beard trim they respond great up to 4 weeks in to bud. After that the buds are to heave to move around.

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"Every girl's crazy about a sharp dressed rootball" hehe