The Truth About Flushing

Discussion in 'General Marijuana Growing' started by riddleme, Feb 17, 2011.

  1.  
    whitebb2727

    whitebb2727 Well-Known Member

    Mix the miracle grow at 1/4 strength. People talk bad about it. Most probably never tried it.

    I don't care for it because they don't remove heavy metals and I don't want to smoke metal.
     
    Budley Doright and Bbcchance like this.
  2.  
    Tx-Peanutt

    Tx-Peanutt Well-Known Member

    I was talking bout miracle grow soil all natural I think it's called a buddy of mine using it without grow big FF nutes but using big bloom and tiger bloom on a white widow strain
     
    Last edited: Jul 8, 2017
  3.  
    Chunky Stool

    Chunky Stool Well-Known Member

    Stay away from Miracle Gro soil. Lots of growers here say it sucks for cannabis.
    If you're going to use synthetic nutes, why not just go with DynaGro Foliage Pro & ProMix HP? It's hard to fuck that up if you're paying attention.
     
  4.  
    Budget Buds

    Budget Buds Well-Known Member

    Never had any issues with MG soil if I mixed it with additives , I would use good soil from a local bog or riverbed over it though.
    I agree with dynagro , Pretty idiot proof, it works really good if you ph the water when using it (most dont), It's also hands down the cheapest line of nutrients worth a damn that you can find( mind you it's not a made for cannabis line )
     
  5.  
    chemphlegm

    chemphlegm Well-Known Member

    "2.5 ml of big bloom and 1.5 ml of grow big 2.5 ml of tiger bloom 1/8 of a teaspoon of epsom salt and 1/8 of a teaspoon of beastie blooms."

    with only a week or so to go adding anything but water is often detrimental end results.
    My vegging plants always have some bloom nutrients in them with no issues. I begin them in five pails a couple weeks
    before flower initiation. Those transplants have both veg and bloom nutes before they enter flower and more when they get there.
    I add a small amount of organic bloom fertilizer biweekly until the last week or so for a perfect finish every time
     
  6.  
    chemphlegm

    chemphlegm Well-Known Member

    indoor or outdoor?
    miracle grow did well for a few years outdoors so I figured indoors was a snap, boy was I in for surprises, till I dumped the MG shortly after(circa 1990's)
     
  7.  
    jonsnow399

    jonsnow399 Well-Known Member

    never had a problem with mg soil, the moisture control is very good.
     
    whitebb2727 likes this.
  8.  
    jarvild

    jarvild Well-Known Member

    I don't run high PK numbers, I only replace 30 ppm of N for 30 ppm of P when in flower. And as I said that wasn't a flushing test. The last plant was fed 200 ppm for the last week of flower.
     
    Bbcchance likes this.
  9.  
    dangledo

    dangledo Well-Known Member

    Yea you gave it way too high p early in flower. Did you read the link? It'll help you understand what is happening opposed to just tossing on more nutrients hoping it works.

    Fwiw. I've used bloom feed from seed to harvest. green the whole ride.
     
    jarvild likes this.
  10.  
    whitebb2727

    whitebb2727 Well-Known Member

    Yea. It will work fine.
     
  11.  
    Tx-Peanutt

    Tx-Peanutt Well-Known Member

    Yeah I read and understood most I am going to read again though I didn't know about that I figured that it would work since they were flowering already .. so if I read correctly 1-3-2 would be better for them .. I am going to look in to different way to give them nutes
     
  12.  
    jarvild

    jarvild Well-Known Member

    I ran the CNS-17 Bloom coco and soil formula ( 2-2-3) from start to finish for several years in coco DTW.
     
    dangledo likes this.
  13.  
    Tx-Peanutt

    Tx-Peanutt Well-Known Member

    I'm growing in soil fixing to use happy frog soil and perlite if u have any suggestions I'm all ears my friend I'm just learning it was my first grow so anything more than a couple grams off the whole plant I'm excited ... I heard most people bust on there first grow
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2017
    jarvild likes this.
  14.  
    jarvild

    jarvild Well-Known Member

    Only the ones who overthink it are the ones that usually have problems. My feeds are never over 600 ppm (1.2ec) with most of my feeds in the range from 400 ppm to 550 ppm.
    Just pick a good one or two part nutrient, mix at half strength and watch your plants from there. If they look hungry feed them a little more, if they work at half strength leave it alone until you get a better understanding of what your plants like. After you get the basics down then is the time you can experiment with different nutrient profiles.
     
  15.  
    dangledo

    dangledo Well-Known Member

    Exactly. Many see a deficiency when they are giving plenty of said deficient nutrient, not realising they're deficient due to toxicity of another nutrient. In most cases, p.


    Less is more, that way you know if you're truly deficient. I never hit over 500 either, 600 if not using an ro filter with adequate run off.

    Screenshot_2017-07-09-14-19-40.png
     
    jarvild and Tx-Peanutt like this.
  16.  
    Oldfashioned

    Oldfashioned Member

    IMG_1562.JPG Hey guys, new to riu or any forum really. On the flush/leach thing i have experienced bud rot if pushin low ec to hard for to long( with big chunks anyway) not because of stagnant air or high humidity but high transpiration rate making the bud cold and high humidity inside the bud causing grey mould from my observation. Once leaves start taking on the shape of a nice rolling paper :D or canoe time to chill on amount of water and or add some salt back in the mix. As you can see here we've got some rolling.
     
  17.  
    Oldfashioned

    Oldfashioned Member

    IMG_1570.JPG Onset can happen fast when ec is low which lead to immature culling of buds. Stagnant air with high humidity will also cause this. Just thought i would show this to help some of you folks givin it a go for the first time as i know how exiting it can be at first and then lose your precious in a short 2 or 3 days will be disappointing. These here just started, not much loss but imature at 7wks. If you see a dead leaf on your bud all the sudden or browning at all in a dry chrisp way pull it as it happens very fast and change what you are doing. There will be grey mould at the base of that crispy leaf inside the bud.
    This happened after i pushed water hard through the buckets to leach on day 1, so 10 gal let's say then each day straight water to good run off as they take it each day. About 4 days after run off was coming in at around 250ppm on average. day 5 spot the dry crisy leaf which i should not of let happened as i seen the roll two days prior but was being busy with other things and ignored it .I added the salt back to 350ish lighten the amount of liquid going in and drop temps and humidity a bit, kind of like switching gears getting ready for the final push or 2nd or 3rd fluorescence as they say depending on your strain. Keep the air movin especially if you're tightly packed but should anyway as the buds don't like radiant heat which will help promote rot.Hope that can help some as mistakes will always be made even when got experience but it's the mistakes that have given me the most education
    Have fun
     
    Last edited: Jul 14, 2017
  18.  
    Tx-Peanutt

    Tx-Peanutt Well-Known Member

    My plant was dying rapidly about a week ago and had no choice but to chop her I think she stressed all as I have found what looks like was gonna become seeds . It was my first grow I think where I messed up was when I started giving her Himalayan water it didn't work ... Lol I also was giving her tiger bloom to early in the flowering stage which caused browning of the leaves. They started at the bottom and went up ... She was "locked out" I'm guessing. They started yellow and dried and fell off , I guess the point to that long paragraph is watch your PH .... :blsmoke: I am sitting here burning still pissed cuz it didn't make it till the end of flower
     
  19.  
    Oldfashioned

    Oldfashioned Member

    Shitty tx it happens though and many failures to come but hopefully not so harsh. Must have hermied pretty bad to get seeds, never seen it but hermies i have. They will hermie if stressed or not so great breeding. Not sure on your himilaya h20 or your bloom as i haven't heard of it. The browning you are talking about is effecting your sinks by the sounds of it or fan leaves off the main stock not positive but chances are your salt levels measured in ppm or ec are a bit high. Lol! Some of these girls can take a hell of beating when it comes to food and i know cuz i've beat them, but it's better in my opinion to get a base line food without all the extras cut it in half from the directions and water mildly until the roots move in to their new home.Once they start asking for water more often give it and keave the food alone until you start to see the leaves get a little lighter green and then bump it up a little and continue working on your watering skills. This is always changing throughout the life cycle depending on many factors. Ph is a brutally controversial topic as i have read. Get a ppm pen measure your water out of the tap, if you are 200ppm and under you're in good shape get a tried and true food cut it in half and measure the ppm after mix. If it's higher than 500ppm or 1.0ec add water until you are in between 350 and 500 but would start on the low side and then be patient they won't start moving upstairs until they have mived in downstairs and try not to flood the shit out of them 1/2 a quart or so in a 1 gal pot until they are in and growing then start your run off feeds but i wouldn't until they are movin. I have tried ph from 5 to 6.5 those #'s are based on ppm or strength of salt the more phosphorous you dump in your water the lower the ph ,the higher the tap ppm the least amount of time that ph will stay there. If you want to run a true acidic environment then you need a very inert substrate like perelite and peat or a water system. Ro water will allow the the phosphorous to hold the ph down where ever you want to try.pour the balanced food in until the desired ph is reached lot's of run off is needed and flushiing to keep salt build up down as it will drop your substrate ph like a rock which = high ppm,phosophorous mainly is the culprit as the loads are heavy and they not using it if it's left behind evidenced by the ph drop Get a three part food put in your micro take a ph reading thenbyour gro measure then the bloom measure then you'll know what does what. Run low ppm and you be better next round and mind your watering until you know they are in good which is a bit longer after the roots come flying out the bottom of the pot. Hope that helps a bit
     
    Last edited: Jul 15, 2017
    Tx-Peanutt likes this.
  20.  
    Bbcchance

    Bbcchance Well-Known Member

    20170718_090428.jpg pinkberry x ctf (the ctf thread got locked)
     

Share This Page