The far red thread

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
In the sience paper they used up to 90μMol/s/m² and measured an increased PS. The effect however was measurable even at lower intensities. I gave this time ~20μmol/s/m² in addition and will give them next time around 40μMol/s/m²(exchange the driver for one with 1050mA).
If I should make a recommendation I would say go for ~40-50μMol/s per squaremeter and use a driver which allows you to add more diodes in case you want to try it with even more far-red or with a mix of deep and far-red later.
To get ~40-50μMol/s you could use 6-10 top bin XP-Es in series or Osram Oslons and run them with 700 or 1050mA. A Meanwell LCM-40 is a driver with selectable drive current(350-1050mA perfect for secret diodes) and is usable from 2-100v and offers endless possibilities. It even offers 0-10v and PWM dimming which makes it compatible with the most reef controllers.
The driver has up to 42w with is enough to power more diodes if you want.

The shortening effect should be well feelable at 12/12 and the by a few percent optimized PS should largely compensate for losses in the end. As it looks like I get the same 50g/sft as usual but this time only from 240w LED, 40w UVA / B and 5w far-red (285w total) above a 2x 4'. That's only 42-45.000lx or 600-650μMol/s/m². I'll let how know how much it is when dry..

Here is a shot from day 48..

View attachment 4201393

The strange yellowing is a genetic defect of the SLH, btw..
And one more time...How long do you run the 5w of far red in a 2x4 tent for EOD treatment? Thanks.
 

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
And one more time...How long do you run the 5w of far red in a 2x4 tent for EOD treatment? Thanks.
Yeah, I've used the far-red trigger all day long since the stretch is done(end of week 3)and this time with a 12,5/11,5h lighting regime from start to finish and it seems the fastest run with the current strains. It's day 51 and the Bubba'sGift is almost done and get's chopped this friday(54 days) and the SuperLemonHaze will need a few days more but not more than 60. And the summer was hot this year...
With the 13,5:10,5h daylength I've used last run with the same strains they needed 60 and 70 days.

The trigger runs for additional 5 minutes after lights off for EoD treatmjent and in the first three bloom weeks I've used the far-red tigger for 3+2 minutes before+after lights off to keep the plants short.
Mainlights are 3000°k, ⅔ CRI80 + ⅓ CRI90 and the far-red trigger -when run all day long- adds around 20μMol/s/m² of far-red. Probably the same amount of far-red like it would be with CRI90 only..
I can not say whether it is due to the additional 20μMol far-red or if it is only due to the 12,5:11,5h rhythm. I think both are equally responsible for the shortening.
I remember a few threads where they used the same 12,5: 11,5h rhythm with CRI90 only + EoD and they have reported similar foreshortening. I don't think I have much more far-red compared to them.
But what is best, the yield seems to be almost the same... at least it looks like. I'll let you know when it's done and dry.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
Anyone have a good candidate for uva-b meter?
Spreading the knowledge, @Randomblame provided following answer elsewhere:

Solarmeter UVB 6.2 is currently the best device because the sensor is more weighted on the area below 300nm. Most other device can either not read this area or are weighted to the 300-320nm range.
So for C. (and also for reptiles) the area below 300nm is the most interesting (UVR8 protein, vitamin D3).
They have a lot of different UV meters; the Solarmeter 6.5 for instance can measure UVB and/or UVA and costs the same.

https://www.solarmeter.com/model62.html
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey Guys

I just received my reds


Four 50cm/2ft grow strips 10 led/strip
8 x Osram Square 660nm
2 x Osram oslon ssl 150 730nm


I am still far from 90μMol/s 730nm ...

Can I ask what you paid for them four, mate? I get strip envy, mate! Really!
First time I see the Square series on a commercial product. Good to know one can get them finally.. And do they need 24v constant voltage? I see 10 small resistors on the side..?
 
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Belko

Well-Known Member
Can I ask what you paid for them four, mate? I get strip envy, mate! Really!
First time I see the Square series on a commercial product. Good to know one can get them finally.. And do they need 24v constant voltage? I see 10 small resistors on the side..?
It cost me 128 euro
4x30euro/strip and 8 euro shipping cost
They need constant curent
350ma typ/1000ma max
Led-tech recommanded me lcm40 (they add pay attention to high load for the LCM to reach a good efficiency^^)
 
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Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
It cost me 128 euro
4x30euro/strip and 8 euro shipping cost
They need constant curent
350ma typ/1000ma max
Led-tech recommanded me lcm40
Nice to have reds independent of fr, saving cost of duplicate fr diodes in both emerson and initiator, and allowing better utilization of far red for both purposes (single set of fr on one timer for lightson + 15mins).

Guess i’m gonna have to diy and/or order custom at some point...
 
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Belko

Well-Known Member
Can I ask what you paid for them four, mate? I get strip envy, mate! Really!
First time I see the Square series on a commercial product. Good to know one can get them finally.. And do they need 24v constant voltage? I see 10 small resistors on the side..?
I just asked the question to led-tech to be sur, I will surely have an answer tomorrow
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
It cost me 128 euro
4x30euro/strip and 8 euro shipping cost
They need constant curent
350ma typ/1000ma max
Led-tech recommanded me lcm40 (they add pay attention to high load for the LCM to reach a good efficiency^^)
Oh, that's surprisingly cheap especially when I look at what a single Osram Square diode costs. Good that they run with constant current. I see more contact surfaces for Cree and other diodes on the PCB so they are designed for different layouts. The "resistors" are probably just blenders to allow current flow...
I would drive them at 525 or 700mA, it's a good compromise between efficiency and output and seems the sweet spot with LCM-40. 1050mA is anyway a bit over strip limit..
You could also use an HLG-40 or 60H-24A or B and run them in parallel. HLG-60H-24 should have ~2,5A so each strip would run with ~625mA maybe 650mA max. Is probably a bit cheaper(~35€ incl. MwSt., tme.eu.com) and dimmable in the same way like your other drivers(100k poti or build-in regulator).
If you want them to run with 1A you would need an HLG-120H-30A or B(4Amps). Strip voltage would be above 24v(around 26-27v) and you want the driver running in constant current mode. But that's already 100-110w I don't think you need that much. But B version is dimmable down to 6% and I don't know what you plan in the future.
 

Belko

Well-Known Member
Oh, that's surprisingly cheap especially when I look at what a single Osram Square diode costs. Good that they run with constant current. I see more contact surfaces for Cree and other diodes on the PCB so they are designed for different layouts. The "resistors" are probably just blenders to allow current flow...
I would drive them at 525 or 700mA, it's a good compromise between efficiency and output and seems the sweet spot with LCM-40. 1050mA is anyway a bit over strip limit..
You could also use an HLG-40 or 60H-24A or B and run them in parallel. HLG-60H-24 should have ~2,5A so each strip would run with ~625mA maybe 650mA max. Is probably a bit cheaper(~35€ incl. MwSt., tme.eu.com) and dimmable in the same way like your other drivers(100k poti or build-in regulator).
If you want them to run with 1A you would need an HLG-120H-30A or B(4Amps). Strip voltage would be above 24v(around 26-27v) and you want the driver running in constant current mode. But that's already 100-110w I don't think you need that much. But B version is dimmable down to 6% and I don't know what you plan in the future.
Hello

Thanks for you help with drivers

I'm happy with the price, cheaper than mono on pcb and no wire everywhere.

I had the confirmation they are constant current, no response about the resistors.

I will not drive them over 700ma, I only have the pdf files to measure the amount of reds and as it is my first run with LEDs
I thought to start at 350ma and try 500ma if plants like it.

I think I made mistake, I looked again the LCM-40(Da) efficiency curves.
efficiency drop seems to be at 900ma / 1050ma, we do not see the 350ma curve which is hidden by the others.
so the lcm-40 should be fully effective at 350ma.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hello

Thanks for you help with drivers

I'm happy with the price, cheaper than mono on pcb and no wire everywhere.

I had the confirmation they are constant current, no response about the resistors.

I will not drive them over 700ma, I only have the pdf files to measure the amount of reds and as it is my first run with LEDs
I thought to start at 350ma and try 500ma if plants like it.

I think I made mistake, I looked again the LCM-40(Da) efficiency curves.
efficiency drop seems to be at 900ma / 1050ma, we do not see the 350ma curve which is hidden by the others.
so the lcm-40 should be fully effective at 350ma.

Yeah, but only two steps to work with, 23w with 525mA setting(2s2p, not enough voltage for 4s), 28w with 350mA(4 in series).
With 700mA you need a 2s2p circuit too so you get the same 28w as from 4 in series at 350mA.
With dimmable HLG drivers its much more flexible and a HLG-60H-24B would drive the strips with ~650mA, so maybe 65-70w at the wall full dimmable down to 6-8% and 89,5% driver efficiency.

Do they have them in 1' length too? 1ft would match perfect with the COB spacings on my diy heatsinks and I could use 6 of them instead of 8 more CRI97 COB's.
Vero13 is the only CRI97 COB available on digikey and all above Vero13 have a f..... minimum order. Slightly lower voltage and less of them with strips but efficiency would be much better. Would save me a few watts ..
 

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Belko

Well-Known Member
Yeah, but only two steps to work with, 23w with 525mA setting(2s2p, not enough voltage for 4s), 28w with 350mA(4 in series).
With 700mA you need a 2s2p circuit too so you get the same 28w as from 4 in series at 350mA.
With dimmable HLG drivers its much more flexible and a HLG-60H-24B would drive the strips with ~650mA, so maybe 65-70w at the wall full dimmable down to 6-8% and 89,5% driver efficiency.
OK thanks i see what you mean so two steps with LCM-40 (2s2p) and only 350ma ~ 28w (4s) not that good ^^. HLG pilots seem to be more adapted to my situation

Do they have them in 1' length too? 1ft would match perfect with the COB spacings on my diy heatsinks and I could use 6 of them instead of 8 more CRI97 COB's.
Vero13 is the only CRI97 COB available on digikey and all above Vero13 have a f..... minimum order. Slightly lower voltage and less of them with strips but efficiency would bemuch better. Would save me a few watts
I just sent an email to ask them.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, visited the website tonight and found also 1footers. I'll send him a mail and ask for customizations (Square + SSL150 diodes). Thanks, mate!
 

SMT69

Well-Known Member
Hello friends, @Or_Gro recommended this thread and some bulbs, been watching his gro journal and his amazing light setup.

I'd like to add UV/Reds to my diy light when i break down after my 1st harvest....for the shape of the light, wondering what you would recommend.


Flowering tent 2' x 4', running (14) 2' F strips.
Looking at the agromax, solacure, wondering what would fit. maybe 2 or 3 of the 2 footers?
Are these all inclusive- do i need a few different types? thx for recommendations
 

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SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Hello friends, @Or_Gro recommended this thread and some bulbs, been watching his gro journal and his amazing light setup.

I'd like to add UV/Reds to my diy light when i break down after my 1st harvest....for the shape of the light, wondering what you would recommend.


Flowering tent 2' x 4', running (14) 2' F strips.
Looking at the agromax, solacure, wondering what would fit. maybe 2 or 3 of the 2 footers?
I've had a cob fixture with diy'd florescent 2footers. The way it was the florescent fixtures blocked a significant amount of light. UV will reflect and bounce around I'd hang the uv fixture above your main light and let it shine through.
 

Or_Gro

Well-Known Member
I've had a cob fixture with diy'd florescent 2footers. The way it was the florescent fixtures blocked a significant amount of light. UV will reflect and bounce around I'd hang the uv fixture above your main light and let it shine through.
Did you notice any damage to cables/equip?
 
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